Artemis Station

 28 - 29 August 2025

We left Weipa for the long drive south with no firm plan about where we would stop for the night. We intended to drive until we were ready to stop, and had a few possibilities in mind. We stopped at the rest area at the Bamaga turn-off again, as well as "The Bend" north of Coen. We continued on and decided that we would have another night at Artemis Station.

We arrived fairly late in the afternoon to find we were the only ones camped there - how different to our visit a few weeks previously. That time the campground was packed, and this time it was quiet and peaceful. We were glad we had returned. 

A relaxing overnighter at Artemis

It was a relaxing afternoon watching the sun go down without anyone else around. Even though we were the only ones there, the donkey boiler was lit so we could have a hot shower. The campground is well looked after and owners and staff friendly and obliging - all for $10pp.

We left in the morning, intending to stay at Yungaburra where we had some credit from a previously cancelled stay. 

Weipa

 25 - 28 August 2025

We left Rainforest Campground in Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) National Park and set off for Weipa. It was a long drive, with a stop at Mount Tozer Lookout, before re-joining the Peninsula Development Road north of Archer River. We stopped for lunch at the rest area at the Bamaga turn-off then continued on the PDR into Weipa. Again, the road was in reasonable condition, with some rougher patches along the way.

We made it to Weipa by about 3:00pm and set up on a very nice campsite in the caravan park. We had a big tree for shade and could see the water in the distance. The weather was warming up and we were expecting to need the shade, and to spend time in the pool. After a big day's drive we decided on dinner at the cafe attached to the caravan park. We wandered over with our drinks as the sun was starting to set.

Sunset over the Gulf of Carpentaria

While we were in Weipa we did a spot of birding (to the sewerage ponds and the jetty at Evans Landing) and also visited the Op Shop with the best selection of second hand books you could hope to find. The price - a gold coin donation for as many as you want - can't be beaten. I grabbed a pile and happily made a donation. We completed the usual housekeeping tasks - shopping, washing and tidying - before getting ready to start heading south again.

Once again we weren't sure where we would aim for when we left so explored a couple of possibilites, deciding to see how far we could travel.

Weipa

18 – 21 August 2024

The weather was getting hotter and we were glad to be in Weipa where there is a swimming pool at the caravan park, as well as some nice sea breezes. Each afternoon we took our chairs down to the beach and sat under a shady tree to escape the heat. We also went for a couple of drives looking for birds, including an evening excursion to see the Frigatebirds. We had the headlight fixed and it turned out to be just a blown bulb.

We treated ourselves to dinner at the onsite café but, although the food was good, there was only one item of local seafood – not a good look in a town known for its fishing industry. Having said that, dinner of fish and chips, byo, at a table by the beach, was certainly a pleasant way to spend an evening.

We enjoyed some stunning sunsets 
over the Gulf of Carpentaria

Weipa is a service town so we were able to stock up on supplies and get things ready for the next week or so. While we were doing some more forward planning, we decided to cancel one of our National Parks bookings. We had planned on camping at Eliot Falls but decided it wasn’t worth the drive at this time – it’s the most beautiful spot and one we definitely want to go back to, but the heat was really making conditions unpleasant. We figured that once we are living on the Tablelands, the Cape will be a much easier trip.

We would have a few of nights at Cook’s Hut in Kutini-Payamu National Park so set off ready for a rainforest campsite. It would still be hot, but not as bad as Weipa, and there was the chance of rain.

Cape York - To The Tip and Back - Weipa, Merluna Station and Moreton Telegraph Station

Merluna Station

27 – 29 June 2016

Oh what a beautiful hot shower! The first one for a week. Merluna Station is a 169 000 ha cattle station. It is largely undeveloped, and there is only one road in and out. The owners have turned the workers quarters into accommodation and opened up an area for camping. We were able to select a shady spot with access to power.

We found a shady spot close to the camp kitchen.

We completed the necessary housekeeping tasks – cleaning, washing, and sorting gear – and ended up quite exhausted. We almost had the place to ourselves, with only one other family camped over the other side of the shed to us.

Mick had talked to owner Michelle about birdwatching spots and she gave us permission to visit the lagoon. We drove down there in the morning and spent a while at this lovely spot. Mick was hoping for the Trumpet manucode, but was out of luck.

There was also a chance of Spotted Whistling-ducks at the lagoon but they weren't seen either.

There were lots of Brown-backed Honeyeaters present.

After lunch we opted for a swim in the on-site pool and watched the crowds arrive. Not really crowded compared to some places, and with plenty of room for everyone to have their own space, there were at least 7 other vehicles, most travelling in groups and many with children.

We headed out for a walk later in the afternoon when it was a little cooler. There are three marked walks that take you along the now dry, creek. We found Numbers 3 and 2 and enjoyed a pleasant stroll through the bush.

There are a couple of dams at the bottom of the camping area that are good for birding. I went down with the camera a couple of mornings and saw Kingfishers, Cuckoos, Honeyeaters and Finches. The fences were popular with Rainbow Bee-eaters and White-breasted Woodswallows. White-winged Trillers, Bar-shouldered Doves and Red-winged Parrots were also encountered. My main target was Palm Cockatoo and I heard one call on the first morning we were there. I wasn't able to see and photograph one until our next visit after Weipa. Mick.

Water lilies in the dam.

Lots of Cuckoos around, this is a Little Bronze-Cuckoo.

Agile Wallaby near the dam.

Red-browed Finch race temporalis.

Rufous-throated Honeyeater. Many young ones around but no adults.

I was keen to see my first Trumpet Manucode but Spangled Drongos gave me lots of false alarms.

Male White-winged Triller.

Female White-winged Triller.

White-breasted Woodswallows all in a row.

On Tuesday morning Mick went out early for another walk and spent some time down by the dam, at the bottom of the camping paddock. We also took a walk up to the airstrip in the hope of seeing the Bustards that are sometimes there, but not this time.

The mornings were mostly foggy and cool but days were quite hot.

Lunch and another swim were in order as the day heated up. Merluna is a nice spot for a few days to rest and rejuvenate. The facilities are good and the owners and staff friendly. There are some trees in the campground for shade, and a shed with power available.

A flock of Galahs feeds in the paddock nearby. A pink iris shows this one is a female.

The late afternoon light on a feeding Rainbow Bee-eater.

A pair of Sacred Kingfishers were never far away.

White-breasted Woodswallow.

Yellow Orioles are quite common.

White-bellied Cuckoo-shrike in a fig tree.

We set off for Weipa on Wednesday morning. It’s about 100km from the turn back onto the main road and took us about 1 ½ hours. The road was in fairly good condition but the dust necessitated slowing right down for oncoming traffic, and stopping completely for road trains.

Weipa

 29 June – 3 July 2016

We arrived in Weipa in time for lunch. The caravan park was busy, with most sites already taken, and we were glad we had booked a few days before. The small (and only) shopping centre in Weipa, is a short walk from the caravan park so we visited each day to pick up supplies. There is a butcher, bakery, café, chemist, bottle shop and supermarket. We also discovered the community op-shop. This little shop had the best range of books I have seen for a long time, and priced at just 50c each, I stocked up.

Weipa is a remote mining town and port. The orange ore is bauxite, used to make aluminum.

Filling their holds with bauxite.

The café at the caravan park is open for breakfast and dinner, so we dined out for our wedding anniversary, It was just a short stroll from our site, with drinks in hand, for a nice take-away meal, at the tables adjacent to the beach.

A Forest Kingfisher on the TV aerial of the cafe.

Black-necked Stork fishing in the early morning.

Young Black Kite on a mangrove tree near the beach.

Black-backed Butcher birds can be seen around the park.

While in Weipa we visited a number of spots where birds are likely to be found. We drove the dirt tracks around Lakes Patricia and McLeod, down to the fishing spot at the Mission River as well as out to Uningan Reserve. This reserve is mentioned in a number of guides, but we were told that the walking tracks had not been well looked after. A number of turn-offs lead to locked gates – presumably Rio Tinto land, but we didn’t see the promised tracks or picnic area.

Sarus Crane at the disappointing Uningan Reserve.

The best birding was when we were able to watch the frigate birds flying over us at the public jetty, on their way to roost. It is not possible to see then up close as the roosting site is on Rio Tinto land. Mick was happy to get some record shots over a couple of days.

It was wonderful to watch wave after wave of Frigatebirds come in to roost at sunset. Unfortunately the light was very challenging for in flight photography where very high shutter speeds are essential. I must confess that I am just crap at in flight shooting anyway and have an incredibly low keeper rate so that didn't help either.

The main target species for Weipa were Great Frigatebird, tick, and Spotted Whistling-duck. Despite several trips to likely spots no Spotted Whistling-ducks were seen. Bummer! Mick.

A Black Kite playing the flute. Lake Patricia.

White-bellied Sea Eagle wondering if I'm too big to eat. Lake Patricia.

Lesser Frigatebird.

Great Frigatebird, a new bird for me.

Great Frigatebird.

A big attraction for those of us who live on the east coast is watching the sun set over the sea, so time on the beach each evening was a must. There was always quite a big crowd, and some nice photos resulted.

People starting to gather to watch the sun go down.

Great Egret fishing at sundown.

Sunset in front of the caravan park.

We were fortunate to be able to get a campsite booking at Eliot Falls in the Jardine River National Park for later in the week, so we decided to head back to Merluna for a couple of nights, before heading north again.

Merluna Station

3 – 5 June 2016

Back to Merluna and the peace and quiet after busy Weipa. There was only one other couple when we arrived, and surprisingly some showery rain. This is very unusual for this part of the country at this time of year. Very late in the afternoon, we heard the distinctive call of the palm cockatoo. Mick set off with the camera, ever hopeful, and he was finally rewarded with some good shots.

The magnificent Palm Cockatoo.

We enjoyed two very relaxing nights before setting off again – headed further north.

Moreton Telegraph Station

5 – 7 July 2016

Wompoo Fruit-pigeon. The fig tree next to our camp was visited by a variety of great birds.

At last, I found a Trumpet Manucode!

These are very active birds and they really tested me and my camera gear.

A juvenile Yellow Oriole.

Yellow Oriole adult.

We set up camp near an enormous fig tree that was fruiting profusely. What a great tree to be camped next to! Most of the day it was host to squadrons of noisy Figbirds and these were joined on and off by a variety of other visitors, frugivorous and otherwise. In the fig I saw White-bellied and Black-faced Cuckoo-shrikes, Yellow Orioles, Trumpet Manucodes, Great Bowerbirds, Yellow and Graceful Honeyeaters, Wompoo Fruit-pigeon, Large-billed Gerygones (nesting) and a Collared Sparrowhawk. Brush Turkeys and a pair of Orange-footed Scrubfowl foraged under the tree especially early morning and late afternoon. I have probably forgotten some but you get the idea.

The thrill of seeing my first Trumpet Manucode was slightly tempered when I heard its calls. A bit like the croak of a tree frog and nothing resembling a trumpet at all! Mick.

Male Australasian Figbird.

Orange-footed Scrubfowl, Race yorki.

We decided to kill time at Moreton Telegraph Station until we could go into Eliot Falls (in the Jardine National Park). Moreton Station offers various levels of accommodation, but not the fuel or take-away meals available at roadhouses. It was a good place to stay with lots of green grass and a walk along the creek and by the lagoon. We were fortunate in arriving early we were able to pick our own powered site. It just happened to be right by a tree that was a prime spot for the avid birdwatcher. It was here also that we ran into our former neighbours from Merluna, and met some new folks. All in all a nice couple of nights.