Artemis Station

 12 - 14 August 2025

We left Hann Crossing Campground early and stopped for some birding and breakfast at Nifold Plain in Rinyirru National Park, before continuing on to photograph the Red goshawk, and then on to Artemis Station.

There's a croc in that waterhole

Artemis Station is well known as a breeding location for the Golden-shouldered parrot so it was on our list of places to visit. We arrived quite early in the day and chose a spot that would give us some shade. There was only one other camper when we arrived but the campground started to fill up as the afternoon wore on. It seems that Artemis has become a "go to" place for those wanting somewhere to spend the night on the way to or from "The Tip". It's a bit of a shame as, in our opinion, it has changed the atmosphere of the campground somewhat, with big groups "parking the wagons in a circle" with little regard for others. Birders, once the bulk of visitors, are now in the minority.

Regardless of the noisy caravanners, we still had a nice time at Artemis. The early birds left and we had the campground almost to ourselves - with one other birding couple - for most of the day, until the grounds started to fill up again. This time, in addition to the caravanners there was a big tour group. Definitely not what we had expected! It really is hard walking around a campground looking for birds with binoculars and camera when there are so many people nearby. 

We spent two nights at Artemis and Mick visited the feeding station a number of times to take photos of the parrots so it was a productive stop anyway. 

We had one more night to fill in before we were booked into Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) National Park but weren't sure where we would stop when we left Artemis. We'd decide along the way.

Hann River Roadhouse

26 – 27 August 2024

The drive from Lockhart River to Cairns is about 800km so I decided that it would be best if I did it over two days. The road is mostly dirt, sometimes very rough, and has a couple of tricky river crossings so would take much longer than the same distance on bitumen. I was a bit nervous about a couple of the river crossings on the first section of road – we’d passed a truck stuck at the Wenlock River when we drove in a few days ago.

It was a long, lonely drive on my own

There was no option but to set off on my own, take it easy and takes lots of breaks along the way. My aim was to get to Musgrave Station Roadhouse where I could get a room for the night, before continuing on the next day.

The first leg of the journey was from Lockhart River to Archer River and I made it to the junction without incident, despite my nerves about the Wenlock River. There wasn’t much traffic along the first stretch but I knew there would be more once I joined the Peninsula Development Road just north of Archer River Roadhouse.

I listened to podcasts as I drove, and stopped at each opportunity along the way – Archer River Roadhouse, Coen and Musgrave Station Roadhouse. Because I was making good time, I decided to press on to Hahn River Roadhouse. Even though it was still only mid-afternoon, I figured it was best to stop there so that I could get to my final destination early in the day.

I had managed to call Mick a couple of times, before and after his surgery and was relieved to know that it had all gone well. I checked into very basic accommodation at the roadhouse and started to make some plans. Mick would need some time to recuperate from surgery and that would probably mean we would have to find alternative accommodation to the camper trailer. After discussing it with him, I booked a week in a caravan park cabin in Atherton, where we could store the trailer while we stayed there.

I was up early the next morning and ready to set off for Atherton, and then to collect Mick from hospital.

Cape York - To The Tip and Back - Moreton Telegraph Station and Musgrave Roadhouse

Moreton Telegraph Station

16 – 17 July

We set off early (for us) from Seisia, and reached the Jardine River Ferry, the last “place” until Bramwell Junction. There are toilets and a fuel station, as well as a campground. The ferry ticket you purchase on the way up is a return ticket which you do have to produce on the way back.

We set off again along the Northern Bypass Road – it was still in appalling condition in parts. We had hoped that maybe a grader had been along while we were at the tip, but no such luck.  We continued on to the small section of the Old Telegraph Track and then on to the Southern Bypass Road. Because of our early start, we were making good time.

One of the large termite mounds that are common in this part of the country. Across the road from Bramwell Roadhouse.

We stopped at Bramwell Junction Roadhouse for a stretch and a coffee, then headed on to Moreton Telegraph Station. We were fortunate to be able to get a powered site again, and set up on the same one we had last time. Iithin ½ hour the four powered sites were taken. If you need a powered site I suggest booking ahead or arriving by lunchtime. There is heaps of space for those not needing power. Once again Mick spent a good bit of time trying to photograph the resident birds.

I didn't get any special shots as hoped but managed some snaps of the Manucode again.

We set off early again, aiming for Musgrave Roadhouse. As we moved south, the roads continued to improve.

Musgrave Roadhouse

17 – 18 July

We stopped at the free camping area, known as The Bend, just before Coen, for lunch, then continued on to Musgrave. We arrived mid-afternoon, and were one of the first into the campground so had our pick of the spots. We chose one under a shady tree. There are no powered sites at Musgrave but we were able to get the solar panels into the sun for part of the afternoon.

Mick went exploring and found the dam, complete with freshwater crocodiles. We were also able to access the creek, but no swimming allowed - there could be saltwater crocodiles. We ventured up to the bar for a drink and chatted to some other travellers. We found that everyone wants to share their experiences of going to the tip, or hear about yours if they are on their way up.

We saw a few freshwater Crocodiles in the dam.

Torresian Crows were a pest around the campground, getting into bins and spreading rubbish around.

A Whistling Kite calls down by the creek.

A White-faced Heron by the creek.

We were very keen to get going in the morning, so after fuelling up, we headed off for Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park.