Bendigo

26 – 30 November 2024

We left Winton Wetlands and let the GPS determine our route, which turned out to be the most direct, but mostly on “C” roads. This meant we passed through a number of small towns and avoided a lot of traffic. We stopped for lunch at a bakery in Murchison then continued on to Bendigo.

Bendigo was to be our last stop before heading to Tasmania. We had a lot of re-organisation to get the trailer ready to go into storage so we booked an ensuite site at a caravan park. We were very glad we did when we were hit with a couple of big storms, including one which blew around everything not secured. We had seen it coming on the BoM App and were able to move chairs and other small items into the ensuite just in time.

Although we had been able to prepare for the storm, we were faced with a very wet camper trailer. The next day was sunny and bright so we were able to get everything dry. Because the forecast was for more rain we decided that a move into a cabin would be the best thing to do.

After getting the trailer dry and repacked, we took it to the storage facility we have used before and settled into the cabin.

We took the opportunity to visit Greater Bendigo National Park for some more birding but again, not so successful. We spent the last couple of days getting the car ready for the trip to Tassie and using up all the fresh food as we wouldn’t be able to run the fridge in the car.

We didn’t need to be in Geelong until late in the afternoon so we planned to leave as late as we could and take our time making our way there.

Our Wikicamps Trip Plan shows we didn't take 
the most direct route from Townsville

Winton Wetlands - Green's Hill Campground

25 – 26 November 2024

It was quite a way from Deniliquin to Winton Wetlands but Mick wanted to do a spot of birding before we set off. We headed north to check out some of the spots he had been to on Saturday night but it wasn’t a very productive session.

After a morning birding, we returned to Deniliquin for a picnic lunch then set off for Winton Wetlands. We travelled through NSW and crossed the Murray River again, at Tocumwal. From there we continued through Victoria to another one of our favourite spots.

By the time we arrived, Bronwyn and John were already set up, and with clouds around we decided it would be wise to set up the awning even though we would only be staying one night. Just as well, as it started to drizzle even as we set up.

We had a lovely spot by the lake and enjoyed a very pleasant afternoon with family. Bronwyn and John had stayed here, at our suggestion, on their way to Melbourne and were very keen to return. Unfortunately, the weather spoiled any opportunity for a photography session, but it was a great night anyway.

Sunset over Lake Mokoan

After a slow pack-up and farewell, we started our journey to Bendigo, our final destination in Victoria.

 

Deniliquin

22 – 25 November 2024

We left Notley Campground and drove to Rochester where we called ahead to book a site in Deniliquin. The caravan park where we have stayed before has had some redevelopment work carried out after recent flooding and we wanted to make sure we booked the right kind of spot.

From Rochester we continued on towards the Murray River and stopped at Moama Beach for morning tea in a very nice park by the river. From there we continued back into New South Wales and on to Deniliquin. We arrived before lunch time and were given the option of sites in a couple of different sections of the park. The forecast was for extremely hot conditions over the coming few days so we chose a shady site in the lower section closer to the river.

We were the only ones in our section of the park for most of the time we were there, unlike the upper section which seemed very crowded. We spent some time in the swimming pool as the temperature rose into the mid 30’s. On Friday evening we drove out to meet up with Tony and Julia, and the friends they were staying with. Mick was keen to make the final arrangements for the following day’s birding trip.

On Saturday morning we ventured into town and wandered the markets which are held in Waring gardens, a beautiful park right in town. We bought a few things and strolled around town before returning to the caravan park, as the day became hotter again. An afternoon in and out of the pool helped keep us cool.

Friday drinks by the Edward River at Deniliquin

Tony, Julia and John were going out with bird guide Phil for the day and Mick was joining them for the evening session. Because of the heat, it was quite a late start and a return at about 3:00am. It was worth the effort as Mick was able to get photos of both male and female Plains Wanderers.

We knew that it might be a late night Saturday night so planned to stay the extra day in Deniliquin so we would be well-rested for the next leg of our journey. We had been trying to arrange to meet up with my sister and her partner but the timing hadn’t been quite right until now. Bronwyn and John would be leaving Melbourne to return to Sydney so we set Winton Wetlands as the spot to meet for Monday night.

Before we could leave Deniliquin though, there was a bit more birding to be done. 

Greater Bendigo National Park - Notley Campground

21 -22 November 2024

We knew we couldn’t get to Deniliquin from Portland, in one day, as it was well into the morning when we made the decision to change our plans and head there. We weren’t sure which way we would travel so headed first towards Port Fairy where we stopped for morning tea in a park by the water. From there we set the GPS and followed the chosen route until we stopped for lunch at a park in Ellerslie. While there we made the decision to head to a campground in Greater Bendigo National Park that we had considered in the past.

Greater Bendigo NP is very close to Bendigo

It was getting quite late when we arrived at Notley Campground (also known as Whipstick). It was a hot day so we were glad to be setting up as the temperature was starting to drop slightly. The campground wasn’t as nice as we had anticipated but it was sufficient for one night. There were quite a few people there, including some that looked to be long term residents. There was some bush around, but all the shady spots were already taken when we arrived.

It was a quiet night and because we hadn’t set up the awning or disconnected the car, we were ready to set off quite early in the morning.

Portland

17 – 21 November 2024

Portland was chosen as our next destination because of the gannet colony just out of town. We have been there before and Mick was keen to revisit the area. We checked into the cabin in the caravan park just on lunch time and settled in as the wind started to pick up. We felt we had made the right decision when we later saw that there had been wind gusts of over 80kph recorded. It was strong enough to shake the cabin.

We stayed indoors for the afternoon and made plans for the next day. With better weather forecast we decided to move on to another caravan park in Portland which we’d been to before and had nicer surroundings. Again, I called ahead to check on the possibility of an early check-in and were advised we could come in after 10:00am which worked out really well.

Although the weather had improved it was really cold and drizzly so we decided on lunch at a pub. Mick asked in the office and Mac’s Hotel was suggested. It turned out to be a fabulous suggestion as there was a very large list of lunch specials at around $16 each. We haven’t seen value like that in a long time. The meals were a good size and very tasty – so good in fact that we went back a couple of days later!

Last time we visited Portland it was necessary to arrange a visit to the gannet colony with a volunteer (through the Visitor Information Centre) but since then, regular nightly tours have been made available. All you have to do it be at the gate at Point Danger by 5.25pm. A local volunteer guide allows access to the site and provides an introduction and answers any questions while viewing and photographing the birds. We went each night for three nights and Mick took lots of photos. I used binoculars to get a better view of a couple of the newly hatched chicks. Even though it was very cold and windy, it was absolutely worth the effort.

Point Danger is home to Australia's
only mainland gannet colony

We spent some time wandering around the town and took a drive to the waterfront and also to Fawthrop Lagoon for a walk – and a spot of birdwatching. There’s lots to do in Portland but the questionable weather had us staying close to home for much of the time.

Once again we checked the weather forecast before moving on and were unsure what to do. We had booked a few nights at Cape Otway National Park but there was the possibility of up to 20mm of rain – not ideal in a bush campground. 

By chance Mick had a call from another birding friend who was heading up to Deniliquin in NSW for a few days. The weather was certainly better – although hotter – there and Tony was happy for Mick to join their guided tour so a decision was made to cancel Cape Otway and head to Deniliquin.

 

Nelson

16 – 17 November 2024

We left Mount Compass a bit concerned about the weather forecast – the wind was strong and it was going to get even stronger. We drove towards Wellington where we crossed the Murray River again on another ferry. From there we continued on to Meningie where we stopped briefly but it was too early for lunch so we kept going. We planned to stop for lunch somewhere on the Coorong and found a rest area that looked ok. The wind was blowing hard when we made our way to the picnic table but it was the hordes of flies that had us retreating to eat in the car.

We crossed the Murray River on one of many car ferries

We drove on to Kingston SE (there is another Kingston in South Australia – Kingston-on-the-Murray) where we stopped to make a plan. We calculated that we had plenty of time to get to Nelson at a reasonable hour, but that we would try to get a cabin for a couple of nights to be out of the wind that was forecast. We checked online and couldn’t see anything available so called the caravan park which didn’t have an online booking system. I was told that there were no cabins available until later in the week, so went ahead and booked a powered site for one night hoping we could find something for the following night.

We stopped at Mount Gambier before crossing the border into Victoria, and another change of time zone. It was a long day in the car, but we don’t do it often, and it was a really hot day so it was the best option for us.

When we arrived at the caravan park we were surprised to see that there were hardly any other people there and only one cabin seemed to be occupied. I’m not sure why we were told they were fully booked. Because it was only an overnighter, and there was no rain forecast we stayed hitched up and didn’t bother with the awning so we could get away early if we wanted to.

There was lots of bush around and Mick went exploring with the camera. Unfortunately during the night and through the early morning, it rained quite a bit but there was some sunshine to allow the canvas to dry out sufficiently before we needed to pack up. We checked our options and booked a cabin in Portland where we were able to have the camper trailer nearby and could also check in early.

We left Nelson and stopped in Portland for some groceries, then checked into the caravan park.

Mount Compass

14 – 16 November 2024

We returned to the highway and began the journey to Mount Compass. We stopped at a coffee van at the turn-off to Adelaide and continued on through the city – at its associated traffic – arriving at Mount Compass at lunch time. We settled on to a site close to the amenities and camp kitchen.

Our main reason for visiting Mount Compass is its proximity to another favourite birding spot – Cox’s Scrub. It’s close enough to be able to get there early, and it’s also a very nice caravan park. The pub in town also does a good meal so we did shout ourselves lunch there one day.

Mick takes his birding very seriously

As well as an early morning trip to Cox’s Scrub we also visited the providore and bought some local jam and chutney. We don’t buy souvenirs, but we do buy local produce and other yummy treats.

Mick was keen to drive the Great Ocean Road to do some more birding so we decided that Nelson would be our next stop.

Gluepot Reserve – Sitella Campground and Bellbird Campground

10 – 14 November 2024

We left Loxton and stopped in Waikerie to get groceries, and then drove down to the park for lunch by the river. Waikerie is a good place to stop before going on to Gluepot because of the facilities, easy parking and proximity to our final destination. After lunch we crossed the Murray River on one of the many ferries and continued on to the access road. A visit to Gluepot takes you through some private property before entering the reserve. This time, the roads were in fairly good condition and we made good time getting to the visitor centre where we checked in.

We nearly always end up adding a couple of days to our stay at Gluepot so this time we booked in for four nights at Sitella Campground. There are three campgrounds and we have stayed at all of them – each a little different but all fabulous. We found a nice spot, in the almost empty campground.

As always, Gluepot was all about the birds and Mick spent most mornings and afternoons out at one or other of the bird hides. Because of the size of the reserve and the distance to some of the bird hides and walks from Sitella we decided to spend two nights there, then move on to Bellbird for two nights. This would allow easy access to most of the best spots without too many long drives.

We moved campgrounds and set up at Bellbird, and again the campground was almost empty. The layouts of the campgrounds allow for a degree of privacy and accommodate caravans, camper trailers and tents. Most people who visit Gluepot are birders or other naturalists. It’s too far out of the way for people who are just looking for a cheap place to camp and the total ban on fires and dogs at all times also puts many off. We find this a bonus as we prefer the peace and solitude. Mick did meet a few other birders and lots of useful information was shared.

While we were at Bellbird campground we went out early one morning to the Malleefowl walk. This is an easy walk up and over vegetated sand dunes. There’s lots of good birding but we didn’t see one of these elusive megapodes this time. Last time we did the walk we did manage to catch a fleeting glimpse of one as it crossed the track, so we know they are there.

We watched a storm approach one afternoon

On our final morning we rose early and packed up to get to one of Mick’s favourite hides before the sun was too high in the sky. He wasn’t the only one with that idea, but there was still  room for him and his camera gear. While he photographed birds I made us a cuppa. Before leaving the reserve we drove back to the visitor centre where we purchased t-shirts for ourselves, with the promise we would never wear them at the same time.

From Gluepot we headed towards Adelaide on our way to Mount Compass.

Loxton

9 – 10 November 2024

We drove through the mallee and farmlands, stopping at a rest area near Lake Cullulleraine to have some lunch. We continued on across the border into South Australia, adjusting to another new time zone.

Many of the towns and campgrounds along the Murray River are still recovering for the flooding that occurred a couple of years ago and the caravan park at Loxton was no exception. Because we were only staying overnight, and because we needed to charge up batteries before heading into Gluepot, we opted for a powered site where we were able to stay hooked up.

There are heaps of spots to camp on the Murray River

We went for a walk down to the river and saw that a spot down in the lower section would be a good place to be, once all the infrastructure is restored. We planned to stop in Waikerie on our way to Gluepot to pick up supplies, so made a reasonably early start from Loxton in the morning.

 

Hattah-Kulkyne National Park – Lake Mournpall Campground

7 – 9 November 2024

We drove across the Murray River and into Victoria and stopped in Robinvale for morning tea and some grocery shopping before heading into Hattah-Kulkyne National Park. We had booked ahead to stay at Lake Mournpall Campground. We’ve stayed at Lake Hattah and Lake Mournpall, but have decided we like Lake Mournpall best for its proximity to some of the best tracks for birding.

There are lots of campsites around the lake and we chose one that had a view of the water as well as a well placed fire pit. It was also only a short walk to the toilets. We had some shade and a big open space to catch some solar to recharge the batteries.

We went for a drive late in the afternoon to re-acquaint ourselves with the birding spots, and also to check out the condition of the tracks. We had some firewood that we had been carrying around for some time (since our trip to Cape York) so were keen to use it up. We figured that this would be our last chance as we were entering fire ban season in Victoria. With light winds and a cool night it was the ideal time to have a fire – just because we could.

It was the perfect night to have a fire

Mick went out early both mornings and also in the late afternoon chasing a number of birds he was hoping to find, and we went for a couple of walks by the lake. There was no-one camped close to where we were for most of our time there, with most other campers setting up further around the lake. This made for a very peaceful and relaxing time.

We didn’t feel the need to head off too early, so packed up once Mick was back from his early morning birding expedition, and headed towards South Australia. We planned to visit Gluepot Reserve in the Riverland, but would need an overnighter along the way. We chose Loxton just because we’d never stayed there before.

Balranald

4 – 7 November 2024

We called ahead to the caravan park in Balranald and booked a powered site for the night, followed by a cabin for the next two nights when the temperature was expected to reach 40 degrees. We were only travelling a short distance so stayed in the national park campsite until after morning tea. We were grateful that we were able to check into the caravan park early so were set up there before lunch time.

Our site in the caravan park was a drive-through so we were able to stay hitched up. It was only a short walk to the shops and the park was right on the river so there was no need to drive anywhere. There are walking tracks along the river so we did a bit of exploring in the afternoon and the following morning.

Balranald sits on the Murrumbidgee River

Our cabin was scheduled to be cleaned first in the morning and we were able to move in as soon as it was ready. The temperature was already starting to rise so we were glad to have the airconditioning, as well as a nice view of the river. The cabin was basic but it did the job and kept us out of the oppressive heat for a couple of days, and away from the crowds taking advantage of the Victorian public holiday.

While we were in Balranald we planned and booked our next national park stay – back to Hattah-Kulkyne which is another favourite.

Yanga National Park – Mamanga Campground

2 – 4 November 2024

I’d had Yanga National Park on the “possible” list many times but we never seemed to be in a position to go and stay there, so we were hopeful we could do that this time. We needed some supplies so drove into Balranald where we visited to local IGA supermarket, then drove the 10 minutes back to Yanga NP. Campground bookings are essential but we had read that Telstra service was good in the campground so we took the chance and headed in.

We’d been watching the weather and there was a very windy day forecast for the following day, and a day of extreme heat in a few days’ time, so we needed to be mindful of that when making our decisions.

We drove into Mamanga Campground and found a great spot right on the Murrumbidgee River. Camping is free, but you do need to book and pay a $6 booking fee – no matter how long you want to stay. With this in mind we booked for two nights and hoped that the wind wouldn’t be too bad.

Although there was some wind during the next day, it was never bad enough to stop us cooking and enjoying this fabulous spot. It was just so nice sitting on the banks of the river watching the water. We went for a couple of short walks around, and Mick took some photos of the local birds – of course.

Sunset over the Murrumbidgee River

We had been prepared to leave Mamanga if the wind had made things difficult, but there was no need so we stayed for the two nights we had booked. Our next challenge was finding somewhere to stay during a heatwave, with the Melbourne Cup public holiday coming up. We knew continuing on towards the Murray River would be pointless so we made the decision to stay for a few days in Balranald.

Hay

1 – 2 November 2024

We had been up since just on sunrise and had been out birding until 10:00am so we weren’t keen on a long drive from Lake Cargelligo. We decided to head off and stop around lunch time. We were eventually going to Gluepot Reserve in South Australia so had a general direction, but again no firm plans. We stopped briefly in Rankin Springs then continued on to Hay.

We decided Hay would do for an overnighter and we found a caravan park on the Murrumbidgee River where there was plenty of room to stay hooked up. With no rain forecast we were also able to set up without bothering with the awning. We did some washing and had a restful afternoon. The caravan park was nothing special, but was more than adequate for our needs.

The next morning we were able to get away quickly and were on our way towards Balranald.

Hay!

Lake Cargelligo

30 October – 1 November

We set off from Eumungerie and drove through Narromine then on to Condobolin where we had lunch in a park by the Lachlan River. From there we continued on to Lake Cargelligo. We headed to the caravan park where we found the office closed, but a sign inviting guests to choose a site and return to check in later in the day. We found a nice unpowered spot with some shade, but enough open space to set up the solar panels, and just across the way from our friends.

We arranged to meet for drinks later in the afternoon and went for a drive to a bird hide near the lake. There were lots of photo opportunities so we ended up spending quite a bit of time there, and also made a return visit.

Back at the caravan park, we had drinks with Rob and Cheryl and were also joined by some other travellers who were camped just near us. We hung around in the morning until our friends had left, and set off for another local birding spot along the road near the lake. That one wasn’t as successful as we had hoped. 

We decided that we’d only stay for two nights so made a plan to attempt an early morning run out to another “hot spot” known locally as “chat alley”. We were confident we could get out and back in plenty of time to pack up and check out of the caravan park at the required time. The plan was a good one, but the birding wasn’t so great. We did, however, have a close encounter with a fox that showed an unusual interest in the car, and then followed Mick around for quite a while.

We didn't expect to see a curious fox
while we were out birding

When we returned to town we drove down to the lake for a look before gooing back to the caravan park, packing up and setting off once again.