Bruny Island - Adventure Bay

18 – 20 December 2024

Bruny Island is always a favourite place for a couple of nights so we kept an eye on the BoM app and were able to book a cabin in the caravan park at Adventure Bay, at a time when the weather looked good. We left Hobart after morning tea and stopped at Margate to have a look in the op shops and to pick up some fresh bread.

We arrived at Kettering to see quite a long queue waiting to get on the ferry that had just arrived. We didn’t make it on that one, but were on the next one soon enough as there were two operating at the time. We arrived in Adventure Bay and stopped at the park on the foreshore to have some lunch before checking in to our cabin.

Although the cabins are fairly basic, they have everything we need with a bonus of being right across the road from the beach. There is also a walking track through the bush to the shop.

We went for a walk along the beach, stopping to try to photograph birds. We ended up walking all the way to the creek and then back to the other end of the beach before returning home. It was windy, but still a lovely afternoon.

The following morning, we drove over to the Cape Bruny Lighthouse. After Mick has spent some time photographing some of the local birds, we walked up the hill to the lighthouse. Some excited tourists had spotted an echidna in the low coastal scrub so we joined them in trying to get a photo.

Jetty Beach was just beautiful on a sunny day

It was getting close to lunch time so we decided to drive down to Jetty Beach which was quite close by. We couldn’t remember if we’d been there before, and realised when we arrived that we hadn’t. It’s a stunning little beach and with the warm weather there were lots of people about, but it still didn’t feel crowded. We set up in the day use area to have our picnic lunch before another walk on the beach and then back to Adventure Bay.

Later in the afternoon we went for the short drive to the Mavista Nature Walk. This short, easy walk meanders near the creek through the rainforest and as expected, was a bit muddy. Not much in the way of birdlife, but still a lovely walk.

On our final morning we weren’t in a hurry to get home so we stopped to do the walk to the lookout at The Neck. It’s a long climb up the stairs to the top but the view is fantastic. We also walked along the boardwalk down to the beach but didn’t walk on the beach. Our next stop was for honey ice creams at Bruny Island Honey- YUM!

The Neck - definitely worth the climb

On our way back to Hobart we stopped to buy some local fruit from one of the roadside produce stores and then had a picnic lunch at the beach in Snug. Again, a beautiful sunny day had the locals flocking to the beach.

Coles Bay

1 - 4 December 2024

After a reasonably smooth crossing and a good night’s sleep, we disembarked at East Devonport just after 7:00am – which meant we had most of the day to fill in before we could check in to our cabin at Coles Bay. Although we were keen to get to Hobart to see the girls, we had decided on a short break in the East Coast first. We left Devonport and drove to Deloraine where we stopped for some breakfast and to buy some fresh food, as we hadn’t brought any with us. We also went for a walk down by the river which was very nice, but we didn’t see any of the platypus that live there.

Because we had so much time to fill in we decided to travel to the East Coast via Scamander. That route took us through the mountains and down to the coast. Scamander is a beautiful spot and we have stayed there quite a few times. There are usually lots of shorebirds but when we arrived this time the beach looked quite different. There had been a massive storm, with a huge rainfall, overnight and the sea was pumping. There was so much sea foam, seaweed and driftwood on the beach, even the locals had come down for a look.

We spent a while on the beach at Scamander then drove south to Bicheno where we stopped for lunch in the park. We continued on to Coles Bay where we were able to check in to our cabin a little early. We had never stayed at the caravan park there and were very pleased to have a view from our deck.

We planned to go into the Freycinet National Park to do some walking but we didn’t have a current Tasmania Parks Pass. We made enquiries but discovered we would need to obtain new Tassie Seniors Cards (I thought we already had) to get the concession price. Once we had organised that we decided to go to the park in the afternoon when the weather was better.

We walked around in the village of Coles Bay and down by the water before having lunch and then driving to the Freycinet NP Visitors’ Centre to arrange our Parks Pass, and then on to Cape Tourville Lighthouse for the short walk. This walk is easy and takes in some fabulous views.

We decided to have dinner on Monday night at the hotel which was just a short walk through the caravan park. The place was very busy, expecially for a Monday night, and we were glad we had arrived quite early. The meals were good and reasonably priced.

On Tuesday we waited until the afternoon when the weather improved to go on the Wineglass Bay Lookout Walk. This one is a Grade 3, 2.6km return hike. We did this walk with the girls when we holidayed in Tasmania 20 years before and the lookout viewing platforms have been improved quite a bit since then – but you still have to walk up many stairs to get to the magnificent view. It’s worth the effort – but our legs did hurt afterwards. We treated ourselves to an ice cream when we returned to the village – we felt we had earned it!

Wineglass Bay from the Lookoout

View of The Hazards from Honeymoon Bay

On our final morning we went back into the National Park for a short walk on the beach at Honeymoon Bay. As usual there was a spot of birding as well. Finally we decided it was time to head towards Hobart so we left Freycinet and returned to the Tasman Highway for our journey south. We stopped at Triabunna for lunch from the famous Fish and Chip van – always good – and then continued on.

Mick was keen to take a detour to the Tasman Peninsula so we made the decision to take the scenic route along the Wielangta Forest Drive. Even though it took just as long as going via the main roads, it was a beautiful drive. The purpose of the visit – birds of course! Jo’s partner Tom had let us know that the Swift parrots were still about at Fortescue Bay so we just had to go there to see for ourselves.

Arriving at Fortescue we sought out information about the likely location and even though Mick didn’t get a photo, we did hear them and see them fleetingly as they flew over. After stopping to chat with Tom, we finally set off for Hobart to have a couple of months with our daughters.

Spirit of Tasmania - Geelong to Devonport

30 November – 1 December 2024

After a final sort and pack of the car we left the caravan park in Bendigo and stopped at the carwash, before setting off towards Geelong. We had all day to get there so we took the long way, with our first stop in the old gold mining town of Maldon. We wandered around town for a while then continued on to Creswick where we had lunch in the pub.

From Creswick we drove into a birding spot on Lake Elijah in Ballarat. The weather had turned cold and rainy so we didn’t stay long. We made our way over to the Botanic Gardens, and Lake Wendouree, but again the bad weather meant we didn’t spend too much time there. We were keeping an eye on the time and decided to head for a shopping centre to pick up some food for the boat trip and to have a coffee. If we timed it right, we would get to Geelong in time to check in to the Spirit of Tasmania.

It was a very grey day in Geelong

Our timing was near perfect and we arrived in Geelong, checked in and joined the queue for boarding. Once again, we found ourselves on one of the two very bottom car decks which makes getting in and out a bit of a challenge. Thanks to the skilled staff providing expert direction we were soon parked and on our way to our cabin.

We had a couple of drinks and then settled into the cabin to eat our BYO dinner and watch a movie on the laptop. The forecast looked like it could be a rough night, but it didn’t turn out that way at all. We both slept quite well and were ready to disembark in Devonport, well rested and keen for the next leg of our journey.

Bendigo

26 – 30 November 2024

We left Winton Wetlands and let the GPS determine our route, which turned out to be the most direct, but mostly on “C” roads. This meant we passed through a number of small towns and avoided a lot of traffic. We stopped for lunch at a bakery in Murchison then continued on to Bendigo.

Bendigo was to be our last stop before heading to Tasmania. We had a lot of re-organisation to get the trailer ready to go into storage so we booked an ensuite site at a caravan park. We were very glad we did when we were hit with a couple of big storms, including one which blew around everything not secured. We had seen it coming on the BoM App and were able to move chairs and other small items into the ensuite just in time.

Although we had been able to prepare for the storm, we were faced with a very wet camper trailer. The next day was sunny and bright so we were able to get everything dry. Because the forecast was for more rain we decided that a move into a cabin would be the best thing to do.

After getting the trailer dry and repacked, we took it to the storage facility we have used before and settled into the cabin.

We took the opportunity to visit Greater Bendigo National Park for some more birding but again, not so successful. We spent the last couple of days getting the car ready for the trip to Tassie and using up all the fresh food as we wouldn’t be able to run the fridge in the car.

We didn’t need to be in Geelong until late in the afternoon so we planned to leave as late as we could and take our time making our way there.

Our Wikicamps Trip Plan shows we didn't take 
the most direct route from Townsville

Winton Wetlands - Green's Hill Campground

25 – 26 November 2024

It was quite a way from Deniliquin to Winton Wetlands but Mick wanted to do a spot of birding before we set off. We headed north to check out some of the spots he had been to on Saturday night but it wasn’t a very productive session.

After a morning birding, we returned to Deniliquin for a picnic lunch then set off for Winton Wetlands. We travelled through NSW and crossed the Murray River again, at Tocumwal. From there we continued through Victoria to another one of our favourite spots.

By the time we arrived, Bronwyn and John were already set up, and with clouds around we decided it would be wise to set up the awning even though we would only be staying one night. Just as well, as it started to drizzle even as we set up.

We had a lovely spot by the lake and enjoyed a very pleasant afternoon with family. Bronwyn and John had stayed here, at our suggestion, on their way to Melbourne and were very keen to return. Unfortunately, the weather spoiled any opportunity for a photography session, but it was a great night anyway.

Sunset over Lake Mokoan

After a slow pack-up and farewell, we started our journey to Bendigo, our final destination in Victoria.

 

Deniliquin

22 – 25 November 2024

We left Notley Campground and drove to Rochester where we called ahead to book a site in Deniliquin. The caravan park where we have stayed before has had some redevelopment work carried out after recent flooding and we wanted to make sure we booked the right kind of spot.

From Rochester we continued on towards the Murray River and stopped at Moama Beach for morning tea in a very nice park by the river. From there we continued back into New South Wales and on to Deniliquin. We arrived before lunch time and were given the option of sites in a couple of different sections of the park. The forecast was for extremely hot conditions over the coming few days so we chose a shady site in the lower section closer to the river.

We were the only ones in our section of the park for most of the time we were there, unlike the upper section which seemed very crowded. We spent some time in the swimming pool as the temperature rose into the mid 30’s. On Friday evening we drove out to meet up with Tony and Julia, and the friends they were staying with. Mick was keen to make the final arrangements for the following day’s birding trip.

On Saturday morning we ventured into town and wandered the markets which are held in Waring gardens, a beautiful park right in town. We bought a few things and strolled around town before returning to the caravan park, as the day became hotter again. An afternoon in and out of the pool helped keep us cool.

Friday drinks by the Edward River at Deniliquin

Tony, Julia and John were going out with bird guide Phil for the day and Mick was joining them for the evening session. Because of the heat, it was quite a late start and a return at about 3:00am. It was worth the effort as Mick was able to get photos of both male and female Plains Wanderers.

We knew that it might be a late night Saturday night so planned to stay the extra day in Deniliquin so we would be well-rested for the next leg of our journey. We had been trying to arrange to meet up with my sister and her partner but the timing hadn’t been quite right until now. Bronwyn and John would be leaving Melbourne to return to Sydney so we set Winton Wetlands as the spot to meet for Monday night.

Before we could leave Deniliquin though, there was a bit more birding to be done. 

Greater Bendigo National Park - Notley Campground

21 -22 November 2024

We knew we couldn’t get to Deniliquin from Portland, in one day, as it was well into the morning when we made the decision to change our plans and head there. We weren’t sure which way we would travel so headed first towards Port Fairy where we stopped for morning tea in a park by the water. From there we set the GPS and followed the chosen route until we stopped for lunch at a park in Ellerslie. While there we made the decision to head to a campground in Greater Bendigo National Park that we had considered in the past.

Greater Bendigo NP is very close to Bendigo

It was getting quite late when we arrived at Notley Campground (also known as Whipstick). It was a hot day so we were glad to be setting up as the temperature was starting to drop slightly. The campground wasn’t as nice as we had anticipated but it was sufficient for one night. There were quite a few people there, including some that looked to be long term residents. There was some bush around, but all the shady spots were already taken when we arrived.

It was a quiet night and because we hadn’t set up the awning or disconnected the car, we were ready to set off quite early in the morning.

Portland

17 – 21 November 2024

Portland was chosen as our next destination because of the gannet colony just out of town. We have been there before and Mick was keen to revisit the area. We checked into the cabin in the caravan park just on lunch time and settled in as the wind started to pick up. We felt we had made the right decision when we later saw that there had been wind gusts of over 80kph recorded. It was strong enough to shake the cabin.

We stayed indoors for the afternoon and made plans for the next day. With better weather forecast we decided to move on to another caravan park in Portland which we’d been to before and had nicer surroundings. Again, I called ahead to check on the possibility of an early check-in and were advised we could come in after 10:00am which worked out really well.

Although the weather had improved it was really cold and drizzly so we decided on lunch at a pub. Mick asked in the office and Mac’s Hotel was suggested. It turned out to be a fabulous suggestion as there was a very large list of lunch specials at around $16 each. We haven’t seen value like that in a long time. The meals were a good size and very tasty – so good in fact that we went back a couple of days later!

Last time we visited Portland it was necessary to arrange a visit to the gannet colony with a volunteer (through the Visitor Information Centre) but since then, regular nightly tours have been made available. All you have to do it be at the gate at Point Danger by 5.25pm. A local volunteer guide allows access to the site and provides an introduction and answers any questions while viewing and photographing the birds. We went each night for three nights and Mick took lots of photos. I used binoculars to get a better view of a couple of the newly hatched chicks. Even though it was very cold and windy, it was absolutely worth the effort.

Point Danger is home to Australia's
only mainland gannet colony

We spent some time wandering around the town and took a drive to the waterfront and also to Fawthrop Lagoon for a walk – and a spot of birdwatching. There’s lots to do in Portland but the questionable weather had us staying close to home for much of the time.

Once again we checked the weather forecast before moving on and were unsure what to do. We had booked a few nights at Cape Otway National Park but there was the possibility of up to 20mm of rain – not ideal in a bush campground. 

By chance Mick had a call from another birding friend who was heading up to Deniliquin in NSW for a few days. The weather was certainly better – although hotter – there and Tony was happy for Mick to join their guided tour so a decision was made to cancel Cape Otway and head to Deniliquin.

 

Nelson

16 – 17 November 2024

We left Mount Compass a bit concerned about the weather forecast – the wind was strong and it was going to get even stronger. We drove towards Wellington where we crossed the Murray River again on another ferry. From there we continued on to Meningie where we stopped briefly but it was too early for lunch so we kept going. We planned to stop for lunch somewhere on the Coorong and found a rest area that looked ok. The wind was blowing hard when we made our way to the picnic table but it was the hordes of flies that had us retreating to eat in the car.

We crossed the Murray River on one of many car ferries

We drove on to Kingston SE (there is another Kingston in South Australia – Kingston-on-the-Murray) where we stopped to make a plan. We calculated that we had plenty of time to get to Nelson at a reasonable hour, but that we would try to get a cabin for a couple of nights to be out of the wind that was forecast. We checked online and couldn’t see anything available so called the caravan park which didn’t have an online booking system. I was told that there were no cabins available until later in the week, so went ahead and booked a powered site for one night hoping we could find something for the following night.

We stopped at Mount Gambier before crossing the border into Victoria, and another change of time zone. It was a long day in the car, but we don’t do it often, and it was a really hot day so it was the best option for us.

When we arrived at the caravan park we were surprised to see that there were hardly any other people there and only one cabin seemed to be occupied. I’m not sure why we were told they were fully booked. Because it was only an overnighter, and there was no rain forecast we stayed hitched up and didn’t bother with the awning so we could get away early if we wanted to.

There was lots of bush around and Mick went exploring with the camera. Unfortunately during the night and through the early morning, it rained quite a bit but there was some sunshine to allow the canvas to dry out sufficiently before we needed to pack up. We checked our options and booked a cabin in Portland where we were able to have the camper trailer nearby and could also check in early.

We left Nelson and stopped in Portland for some groceries, then checked into the caravan park.

Mount Compass

14 – 16 November 2024

We returned to the highway and began the journey to Mount Compass. We stopped at a coffee van at the turn-off to Adelaide and continued on through the city – at its associated traffic – arriving at Mount Compass at lunch time. We settled on to a site close to the amenities and camp kitchen.

Our main reason for visiting Mount Compass is its proximity to another favourite birding spot – Cox’s Scrub. It’s close enough to be able to get there early, and it’s also a very nice caravan park. The pub in town also does a good meal so we did shout ourselves lunch there one day.

Mick takes his birding very seriously

As well as an early morning trip to Cox’s Scrub we also visited the providore and bought some local jam and chutney. We don’t buy souvenirs, but we do buy local produce and other yummy treats.

Mick was keen to drive the Great Ocean Road to do some more birding so we decided that Nelson would be our next stop.

Gluepot Reserve – Sitella Campground and Bellbird Campground

10 – 14 November 2024

We left Loxton and stopped in Waikerie to get groceries, and then drove down to the park for lunch by the river. Waikerie is a good place to stop before going on to Gluepot because of the facilities, easy parking and proximity to our final destination. After lunch we crossed the Murray River on one of the many ferries and continued on to the access road. A visit to Gluepot takes you through some private property before entering the reserve. This time, the roads were in fairly good condition and we made good time getting to the visitor centre where we checked in.

We nearly always end up adding a couple of days to our stay at Gluepot so this time we booked in for four nights at Sitella Campground. There are three campgrounds and we have stayed at all of them – each a little different but all fabulous. We found a nice spot, in the almost empty campground.

As always, Gluepot was all about the birds and Mick spent most mornings and afternoons out at one or other of the bird hides. Because of the size of the reserve and the distance to some of the bird hides and walks from Sitella we decided to spend two nights there, then move on to Bellbird for two nights. This would allow easy access to most of the best spots without too many long drives.

We moved campgrounds and set up at Bellbird, and again the campground was almost empty. The layouts of the campgrounds allow for a degree of privacy and accommodate caravans, camper trailers and tents. Most people who visit Gluepot are birders or other naturalists. It’s too far out of the way for people who are just looking for a cheap place to camp and the total ban on fires and dogs at all times also puts many off. We find this a bonus as we prefer the peace and solitude. Mick did meet a few other birders and lots of useful information was shared.

While we were at Bellbird campground we went out early one morning to the Malleefowl walk. This is an easy walk up and over vegetated sand dunes. There’s lots of good birding but we didn’t see one of these elusive megapodes this time. Last time we did the walk we did manage to catch a fleeting glimpse of one as it crossed the track, so we know they are there.

We watched a storm approach one afternoon

On our final morning we rose early and packed up to get to one of Mick’s favourite hides before the sun was too high in the sky. He wasn’t the only one with that idea, but there was still  room for him and his camera gear. While he photographed birds I made us a cuppa. Before leaving the reserve we drove back to the visitor centre where we purchased t-shirts for ourselves, with the promise we would never wear them at the same time.

From Gluepot we headed towards Adelaide on our way to Mount Compass.

Loxton

9 – 10 November 2024

We drove through the mallee and farmlands, stopping at a rest area near Lake Cullulleraine to have some lunch. We continued on across the border into South Australia, adjusting to another new time zone.

Many of the towns and campgrounds along the Murray River are still recovering for the flooding that occurred a couple of years ago and the caravan park at Loxton was no exception. Because we were only staying overnight, and because we needed to charge up batteries before heading into Gluepot, we opted for a powered site where we were able to stay hooked up.

There are heaps of spots to camp on the Murray River

We went for a walk down to the river and saw that a spot down in the lower section would be a good place to be, once all the infrastructure is restored. We planned to stop in Waikerie on our way to Gluepot to pick up supplies, so made a reasonably early start from Loxton in the morning.

 

Hattah-Kulkyne National Park – Lake Mournpall Campground

7 – 9 November 2024

We drove across the Murray River and into Victoria and stopped in Robinvale for morning tea and some grocery shopping before heading into Hattah-Kulkyne National Park. We had booked ahead to stay at Lake Mournpall Campground. We’ve stayed at Lake Hattah and Lake Mournpall, but have decided we like Lake Mournpall best for its proximity to some of the best tracks for birding.

There are lots of campsites around the lake and we chose one that had a view of the water as well as a well placed fire pit. It was also only a short walk to the toilets. We had some shade and a big open space to catch some solar to recharge the batteries.

We went for a drive late in the afternoon to re-acquaint ourselves with the birding spots, and also to check out the condition of the tracks. We had some firewood that we had been carrying around for some time (since our trip to Cape York) so were keen to use it up. We figured that this would be our last chance as we were entering fire ban season in Victoria. With light winds and a cool night it was the ideal time to have a fire – just because we could.

It was the perfect night to have a fire

Mick went out early both mornings and also in the late afternoon chasing a number of birds he was hoping to find, and we went for a couple of walks by the lake. There was no-one camped close to where we were for most of our time there, with most other campers setting up further around the lake. This made for a very peaceful and relaxing time.

We didn’t feel the need to head off too early, so packed up once Mick was back from his early morning birding expedition, and headed towards South Australia. We planned to visit Gluepot Reserve in the Riverland, but would need an overnighter along the way. We chose Loxton just because we’d never stayed there before.

Balranald

4 – 7 November 2024

We called ahead to the caravan park in Balranald and booked a powered site for the night, followed by a cabin for the next two nights when the temperature was expected to reach 40 degrees. We were only travelling a short distance so stayed in the national park campsite until after morning tea. We were grateful that we were able to check into the caravan park early so were set up there before lunch time.

Our site in the caravan park was a drive-through so we were able to stay hitched up. It was only a short walk to the shops and the park was right on the river so there was no need to drive anywhere. There are walking tracks along the river so we did a bit of exploring in the afternoon and the following morning.

Balranald sits on the Murrumbidgee River

Our cabin was scheduled to be cleaned first in the morning and we were able to move in as soon as it was ready. The temperature was already starting to rise so we were glad to have the airconditioning, as well as a nice view of the river. The cabin was basic but it did the job and kept us out of the oppressive heat for a couple of days, and away from the crowds taking advantage of the Victorian public holiday.

While we were in Balranald we planned and booked our next national park stay – back to Hattah-Kulkyne which is another favourite.

Yanga National Park – Mamanga Campground

2 – 4 November 2024

I’d had Yanga National Park on the “possible” list many times but we never seemed to be in a position to go and stay there, so we were hopeful we could do that this time. We needed some supplies so drove into Balranald where we visited to local IGA supermarket, then drove the 10 minutes back to Yanga NP. Campground bookings are essential but we had read that Telstra service was good in the campground so we took the chance and headed in.

We’d been watching the weather and there was a very windy day forecast for the following day, and a day of extreme heat in a few days’ time, so we needed to be mindful of that when making our decisions.

We drove into Mamanga Campground and found a great spot right on the Murrumbidgee River. Camping is free, but you do need to book and pay a $6 booking fee – no matter how long you want to stay. With this in mind we booked for two nights and hoped that the wind wouldn’t be too bad.

Although there was some wind during the next day, it was never bad enough to stop us cooking and enjoying this fabulous spot. It was just so nice sitting on the banks of the river watching the water. We went for a couple of short walks around, and Mick took some photos of the local birds – of course.

Sunset over the Murrumbidgee River

We had been prepared to leave Mamanga if the wind had made things difficult, but there was no need so we stayed for the two nights we had booked. Our next challenge was finding somewhere to stay during a heatwave, with the Melbourne Cup public holiday coming up. We knew continuing on towards the Murray River would be pointless so we made the decision to stay for a few days in Balranald.

Hay

1 – 2 November 2024

We had been up since just on sunrise and had been out birding until 10:00am so we weren’t keen on a long drive from Lake Cargelligo. We decided to head off and stop around lunch time. We were eventually going to Gluepot Reserve in South Australia so had a general direction, but again no firm plans. We stopped briefly in Rankin Springs then continued on to Hay.

We decided Hay would do for an overnighter and we found a caravan park on the Murrumbidgee River where there was plenty of room to stay hooked up. With no rain forecast we were also able to set up without bothering with the awning. We did some washing and had a restful afternoon. The caravan park was nothing special, but was more than adequate for our needs.

The next morning we were able to get away quickly and were on our way towards Balranald.

Hay!

Lake Cargelligo

30 October – 1 November

We set off from Eumungerie and drove through Narromine then on to Condobolin where we had lunch in a park by the Lachlan River. From there we continued on to Lake Cargelligo. We headed to the caravan park where we found the office closed, but a sign inviting guests to choose a site and return to check in later in the day. We found a nice unpowered spot with some shade, but enough open space to set up the solar panels, and just across the way from our friends.

We arranged to meet for drinks later in the afternoon and went for a drive to a bird hide near the lake. There were lots of photo opportunities so we ended up spending quite a bit of time there, and also made a return visit.

Back at the caravan park, we had drinks with Rob and Cheryl and were also joined by some other travellers who were camped just near us. We hung around in the morning until our friends had left, and set off for another local birding spot along the road near the lake. That one wasn’t as successful as we had hoped. 

We decided that we’d only stay for two nights so made a plan to attempt an early morning run out to another “hot spot” known locally as “chat alley”. We were confident we could get out and back in plenty of time to pack up and check out of the caravan park at the required time. The plan was a good one, but the birding wasn’t so great. We did, however, have a close encounter with a fox that showed an unusual interest in the car, and then followed Mick around for quite a while.

We didn't expect to see a curious fox
while we were out birding

When we returned to town we drove down to the lake for a look before gooing back to the caravan park, packing up and setting off once again.

Eumungerie

29 – 30 October 2024

We left Inverell and travelled through Bingara, Narrabri and Coonabarabran before stopping to look again at our options for an overnight stop. We called into one small town and had a quick look, but decided to keep on going for a bit longer. By the time we reached Eumungerie we were ready to stop and the community campground at the recreation ground seemed to have everything we needed – power, showers and toilets, as well as a pub with walking distance.

Eumungerie was a good "low cost" camp

We don’t often eat out and the opportunity to walk to the pub - The Drover's Dog -  for a meal is always appealing. We found a cosy hotel with very friendly locals and a decent menu. The meals were good so the walk was worth it. We wandered home and settled in for a quiet night.

While we were at Eumungerie we received at text message from Ravenshoe friends Rob and Cheryl, checking in on us. By some amazing coincidence they were at Lake Cargelligo. They hadn’t planned on going there and had no idea we were headed there the next day. The stayed an extra night so we could meet up and share our travellers tales.

Inverell

26 – 29 October 2024

We left Girraween and crossed the border back into New South Wales, and adjusted back to Daylight Saving time. We fuelled up in Tenterfield where we found the cheapest diesel around then stopped for lunch at Swanbrook Rest Area, a spot on the river with picnic tables and toilet.

We have visited Inverell a few times and always take the opportunity to catch up with birding friends Ian and Judy. We chose a caravan park on the Macintyre River which is quite close to town. Our site was at the back of the park, with the river behind us. There is easy access through a locked gate, to the lovely walk along the river where Mick did a bit of birding. We even did a bit of spotlighting on the bridge near the caravan park when we thought we heard an owl not too late one night.

There's some good birding right in town

On our first night there we went over to Ian and Jude’s for drinks and then stopped on the way back at the Finale Evening of the Sapphire City Festival. There was entertainment, food trucks and market stalls so we wandered around and bought some dinner before heading back to the caravan park.

We went for a short drive to Lake Inverell where we walked along the walking track to a spot where there was some potential for bird photos. The lake and parklands look to be a very popular destination with plenty of parking and all the expected facilities.

As always, we hadn’t really decided where we would go to next, but had a plan to head towards Lake Cargelligo. We set the GPS for Lake Cargelligo with a couple of potential overnight stops in mind.

Girraween National Park – Terrawambella Campground

23 – 26 October 2024

We have stayed at Girraween National Park before and wanted to go back so we booked a couple of nights at Terrawambella Campground. Significant bushfire damage had occurred since we last visited and one of the campgrounds has been closed, and replaced with two new ones. Terrawambella wasn’t our first choice but it was the only one where we could get consecutive nights with a possibility of extending. We initially booked two nights, but extended to three after the first night.

Another stunnning sunset - view from the campground

We travelled north from Tenterfield, back into Queensland with another change of time zones, and arrived quite early. At Girraween, a booking is made for the campground only and you can choose your site when you arrive. Being a new campground there weren’t many big trees, but the sites were quite large, with garden beds separating them. It will be really nice when the plants and trees grow.

We chose a site close to the amenities with some shade and a fabulous view of the surrounding mountains. The amenities were new, with flushing toilets, a washing up area and an accessible toilet cubicle where it is possible to BYO shower. There was also a communal firepit which can be used at certain times of the year. There is also easy access to most of the walks in the park, and a short drive to others.

Our favourite walk is the Bald Rock Creek Circuit – an easy 2 km walk with lots of trees and plants that are is flower at this time of year, with many different types of birds. We walked this track a number of times, at different times of day. Mick also walked it alone a couple of times.

We also walked the short Wyberba Walk with its views of the creek and access to a swimming hole as well as the Granite Arch Walk, a 1.6km slightly more challenging Grade 3 walk.  We went on a short walk from Castle Rock Campground too – looking for particular birds of course.

One morning we drove the short distance to the Doctor Roberts Carpark and walked to Doctor Roberts Waterhole and added the Underground Creek Walk as well, both worth the walk, even though it was quite a warm day. Later that day we became aware of the possibility of a storm, but with only patchy internet access at the campsite, we weren’t sure exactly where it would hit, or the intensity. We had a nervous night with thunder and lightning right over the top of us. There was so much close lightning we went and sat in the car during the worst of it.

The next morning one of the rangers came by to advise that there was a fire in the park, started by lightning, but that evacuations were not necessary to that time. Parks staff would continue to monitor the situation and provide advice if things changed. The fire had caused the closure of the Doctor Roberts Waterhole and Underground Creek walks. We were glad we had been able to get there the day before.

After three nights and heaps of walking we needed to pack up and move on – this time to Inverell.

Tenterfield

20 – 23 October 2024

We left O’Reillys and drove back through Canungra, Beaudesert and Boonah, then back onto the Cunningham Highway. We collected the camper trailer from the caravan park in Warwick and then stopped at a small free campground at Dalveen to have a quick lunch. While we were there we decided to make Tenterfield our next stop so we called to book a site at the caravan park we have stayed at a couple of times before. 

We then continued on towards the New South Wales Border where we crossed into a daylight savings time zone. Queensland steadfastly refuses to adopt daylight savings which makes it very difficult for those living and working near and across the borders.

We arrived in Tenterfield and set up on a very nice spot with some bushes and trees around, and easy access to the amenities. We stay in Tenterfield when we can because Mick has been given access to a great birding spot on private property which is looked after by a local group. Staying fairly close by allows him to get out there early in the morning and go back again for a late afternoon session as well. We had intended to stay for two nights but extended to three. It’s good that we have the flexibility to do this.

While we were in Tenterfield we restocked again – we can’t really carry too much – and started to plan our next destination – Girraween National Park.

There are a couple of nice drives
which give great views of the area

O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat

17 – 20 October 2024

We’ve stayed at O’Reilly's a couple of times before and really like this little piece of paradise. The birding is fabulous, the accommodation is excellent and the breakfasts are amazing. Add the proximity to the Lamington National Park and all its walks and you have an almost ideal spot to spend a few days – we think so anyway. We managed to book a three night package which included accommodation, breakfast and afternoon tea daily, early morning bird walk every day, and a nocturnal tour.

We set off from Warwick and stopped to look for the bellbirds near Cunningham’s Gap again, before a picnic lunch at Canungra. From there it was up the windy road to O’Reillys. We arrived in time to settle in and join the afternoon welcome talk, which included a glass of sparkling wine. What a lovely way to start our break from camping.

We had already booked the nocturnal tour for the following night and booked the bird walks when we arrived. I nominated for the first morning, but Mick put his name down for all three mornings because the birding was the reason we had come here.

We had packed some picnic type food to be able to have some meals in our room but we decided to have dinner on our first night at the bar. After watching the sun setting over the ranges we wandered over and found a spot near to the open fire. Even though it was October in Queensland, the nights up on the mountain were quite cool. We shared a pizza and had a couple of drinks. There is a restaurant as well for evening meals as well as a café for lunches and snacks.

The view from our room at sunset

We rose early to join the bird walk on our first morning and set off with quite a large group. There was a new guide who was just “learning the ropes” as well as an experienced guide. Most people who come to O’Reillys have at least some interest in birds, and many are complete novices so it is fun to see the excitement when they are introduced to various species they know little or nothing about.

Following the bird walk we headed for the dining room and the best buffet breakfast you could imagine. It seems like all dietary needs and preferences are catered for and there is a huge variety of fresh, baked and cooked items from which to choose, including porridge which was very popular on a cool morning. Eggs can be cooked to your liking and the toast machine is in constant use with a variety of breads on offer.

We spent our time at O’Reillys walking the tracks close to the guesthouse – sometimes together and sometimes Mick went out on his own. He went on the bird walks on the flowing two mornings and wandered off away from the group to get better photos, as many of the more serious birders do. Each morning he spent a bit longer out with the birds while I slept in and waited to join him for breakfast.

Although we had been on the bird walks on previous visits we had never been on the nocturnal tour so this would be a new experience. We waited at the meeting spot and set off with the group for a walk along one of the main easy tracks nearby. We were both a bit disappointed that the guide spotted some creatures but didn’t really ensure all members of the group were able to get a look. He also talked a lot to those closest to him, forgetting there were others there.

After the walk we jumped onto the bus, and things started to look up. We drove down the Duck Creek Road, which is closed to through traffic these days, and made a number of stops along the way. Mick was particularly keen to see a Marbled Frogmouth and he was very excited when our guide indicated one very close by. We had brought our best torch with us and Mick was able to get some excellent photos of it in the spotlight. That made up for our earlier feeling of disappointment. We also stopped to look at frogs and snakes (which were hidden between the rocks).

After a final hearty breakfast and another walk on the nearby tracks we finished packing up and started the journey back down the windy road towards Canungra and then on to Warwick to collect the camper trailer.

Warwick

15 – 17 October 2024

Some weeks before, we had decided to book a few nights at O’Reillys and needed to find somewhere not too far away to store the trailer. Calling ahead to the caravan park in Warwick, we were advised that they would be able to do that for us at no charge if we stayed before or after, so that’s where we went.

We stopped on the way to do some birding at a picnic spot near Cunningham’s Gap. When we pulled in off the highway, we realised we had been there before. We could hear the bellbirds but they were well hidden in the bush.

Continuing on we stopped at a nearby rest area for lunch but quickly changed our minds as a heavy shower of rain arrived at the same time as we did. By the time we reached Maryvale the rain had passed so we turned off the highway and had lunch in a park on the edge of town. From there it was a short drive into Warwick where we settled in to the caravan park.

I had a problem with a tooth a couple of days before and had managed to book an appointment with a local dentist so that was the highlight of my afternoon. We spent the next day sorting and repacking so that we would have all we needed when we went to O’Reillys and so the camper trailer would be tidy when we left it. We did some shopping for the essentials we would need for the next few days and had everything sorted ready to head off in the morning.

Early morning mist over the paddock
at the back of the caravan park

We packed the trailer up and moved it to the storage spot within the caravan park and then set off for three nights at O’Reilly's.

Hardings Paddock

13 – 15 October 2024

We left Chinchilla and headed towards a birding spot near Jondaryan. We stopped in Dalby to do some shopping and then continued on to a back road just out of Jondaryan. We knew we had the right spot when we saw other vehicles parked on the road nearby. Mick spent a fair while looking and then we drove back into Jondaryan for lunch.

We had booked our campsite at Hardings Paddock, and we weren’t too far away so we returned to the birding spot after lunch for another go. From there it was on to the motorway towards Toowoomba and then Ipswich. Fortunately we didn’t have to go right into Ipswich and, because it was a Sunday afternoon,  the traffic wasn’t too bad. We turned off the motorway and travelled on to Hardings Paddock.

This campground is managed by the Ipswich Council and is accessed via a locked gate. Bookings are essential, and the gate code is provided with the booking confirmation. There are toilets and picnic facilities in the campground as well as in the adjacent extensive day use area. There are a number of walking tracks as well as a couple of small dams.

We stayed for two nights and Mick enjoyed the birding opportunities. On the morning we were leaving, another of Mick’s birding friends who lives nearby, came down for a visit and they went out for a walk together while I did some packing up.

We left Hardings Paddock, another great spot, and started the journey to Warwick which would be a pit-stop rather than a destination.

Chinchilla

11 – 13 October 2024

We decided to stay in Chinchilla for no other reason than we had never stayed there before. We had made a visit to the Emergency Department of the local hospital in 2015 when Mick cut his finger very badly, but had chosen to keep moving on that time. We chose a caravan park at Rubern Lagoons that we had seen on YouTube and which looked a bit more to our liking than the caravan parks in towns. On arrival we called the caretaker as required and were shown to a great spot right by the water. There was even a firepit!

A quiet spot not far from town

Across the lake we could see the preparations being made for a function the following evening. Despite this we decided to stay for two nights anyway. We spent some time on Saturday exploring the area but mostly we relaxed – and Mick took photos of the birds that hung around the water.

The function on Saturday night was a ladies only fundraiser for the local kindy. Although we could hear all the announcements, music and laughter, we didn't find it intrusive at all. Judging by what we heard of the auction, a huge amount of money was raised. I’m fairly certain the early start – 2pm – and a very busy bar, helped considerably. I imagine there might have been a few sore heads in the morning too.

We left on Sunday morning, heading for another birding spot Mick had been told about, with a stop at Jondaryan for lunch and more birding.

Glenmorgan – Myall Park Botanic Gardens

7 – 11 October 2024

After leaving Carnarvon Gorge we finally decided that our next few nights would be at Myall Park Botanic Gardens in the Western Downs region. I had stumbled across it on WikiCamps some time ago and marked it as a possibility, and Mick had been told about it by a birding friend. We called ahead and spoke to the Caretaker, Jeff. He told us to call when we arrived, which we did.

We were both quite surprised at the great set-up at Myall Park. Jeff met us at the visitor centre/office and told us about the two sections of campground, and the facilities available. We chose where we would like to be and he took us over to find a site that would be right for us – as much shade as possible as some quiet warm days were forecast. There is an eco-toilet in this section, and it’s only a short walk to the main toilet/shower block adjacent to the "caravan" section.

Myall Park turned out to be a fabulous spot and we extended our planned 2 nights to four. There were some fellow birders camped nearby who just happened to know the friend who had put us onto this place. Birding really is small world!

Mick enjoyed mornings and afternoons at the bird hide, and despite the heat and a big storm, we had a great time. This is another place that was quite a surprise, and one we will likely return to at some stage.

We could see the storm approach
and were able to prepare

Needing to keep moving on, we set off for another spot we had heard about, this time in Chinchilla.

Carnarvon Gorge

5 – 7 October 2024

We headed south and made a stop in Clermont for morning tea at Hood’s Lagoon. This is a favourite spot to take a break – there are picnic tables, toilets and a lovely walk along the lagoon with the added bonus of some birding opportunities. It is also very easy to access when towing. From there we made another stop in Capella to pick up some supplies, then on to Emerald where we stopped for lunch.

We still hadn’t decided where we wanted to stay next, but we both agreed we wanted to find somewhere nice. There was a long weekend coming up so that would limit our options. After lunch in a park, we took out the map and decided that a detour to Carnarvon Gorge would be nice. I rang and was able to book a powered site for a couple of nights. Although we would have preferred to stay in the national park itself, that campground is only open during school holidays.

We continued on and turned off for Carnarvon Gorge south of Rolleston. The caravan park wasn’t as crowded as we thought it might be, but there were still plenty of people there. We settled on to a site not far from the creek. We opted not to go on the Gorge Walk – neither of us felt fit enough to tackle the almost 20km hike – so instead we took the shorter Mickey Creek Walk. At around 3.5 km it was a leisurely stroll which we very much enjoyed.

There's some lovely short walks in the National Park

We had easy access to the creek adjacent to the caravan park so we did a fair bit of walking along looking for birds. There is a swimming hole, but it looked a bit murky and not terribly inviting.  Once again, we weren’t really sure where we would stay next so we made our way back to the highway and travelled further south while we made up our minds.

 

Belyando Crossing

4 – 5 October 2024

Well rested from soaking in the thermal pools, we packed up and started our long journey south towards Tasmania. We chose to take the inland route as it’s much less busy, and there are some interesting places to stop – unfortunately our first night would not fit into that category.

We left Innot Hot Springs with a view to staying overnight at Charters Towers, with a lunch stop at Greenvale along the way. We pulled in to a free camp on Fletcher Creek that we had read about. We had planned this as an overnight stop, but decided against it. It was still reasonably early in the day and all the shady spots were taken. There were some over the other side of the creek, across the road, but they were a very long way from the toilets. What was left was really just an open paddock – not very appealing – so we decided to press on.

We refuelled in Charters Towers and continued along the Gregory Developmental Road, arriving at Belyando Crossing late in the day. We checked in to the caravan park attached to the roadhouse and made our way to the unpowered section “down the back”. There were no marked sites, nothing near level and a very untidy area. To cap off the disappointment, the amenities were not in great condition, nor were they as clean as they should have been. The place was so awful, I didn't even take a photo!

Definitely not photo-worthy

We were up early the next morning, ready to move on, and vowing never to stay here again.

Innot Hot Springs

3 – 4 October 2024

We left Etty Bay and drove back towards Atherton, making a morning tea stop at Henrietta Creek which we had to abandon due to the number of march files intent on biting us. We stopped at the park in Millaa Millaa instead.

We were aware of bushfires in the area near Innot Hot Springs
so called ahead to make sure we wouldn’t be bothered by smoke. We stopped for lunch at Millstream Falls and went for a walk down to the falls lookout.

It's only a short walk down to the lookout
at Millstream Falls

We drove on through recently burnt scrub but did not see any active fires that afternoon. The attraction at Innot Hot Springs is, of course, the springs which bubble up in the creek, at sometimes extremely hot temperatures. The caravan park has taken advantage of this natural phenomenon and created a series of small swimming and plunge pools of varying temperatures. These are available at no extra charge for park guests, and day visitors can pay to use the facility.

Once we had chosen a site and settled in we wandered over for the first of a number of dips. Therapeutic value aside, moving between the pools at various temperatures was a great way to spend the afternoon and evening.

The following morning we packed up again and set off down the Gregory Developmental Road on our way south.

Etty Bay

1 – 3 October 2024

We’ve been to Etty Bay a number of times, including earlier on this trip and each time we hope to see Cassowaries. Although we have seen one on the road beyond the range twice in recent years, we haven’t seen one on the beach for many years, so Mick was more then a little anxious this time. He really wanted to add one to his "year list" for 2024 and this would be his last chance.

We settled on to a nice site with across from the beach. Most people there were hoping for a cassowary sighting and there were a number of other serious bird photographers camped around the park. Everyone was very helpful and it was easy to tell when one of the resident birds made an appearance as people started moving in the same direction as word spread. We were all quite excited to see such a magnificent and striking bird close up, moving around the beach and campground quite confidently.

It's pretty exciting to see a cassowary up close

We stayed for two nights and were treated to multiple sightings, including of a dad with his chick. Mick was very pleased to finally get the sort of photos he had been after. Even if he hadn’t, Etty Bay is still a really nice place to spend a couple of nights.

We had been trying to work out which way we would travel on our way south and decided to go back up though the Atherton Tablelands and along the inland route. Our first overnight stop would be Innot Hot Springs.

 

Atherton

30 September – 1 October 2024

We headed over to Atherton and took an unpowered site for the night at the same caravan park where we had stayed in the cabin. The unpowered sites are beautifully situated adjacent to the nearby creek and bushland. Being so close to Hasties Swamp, Mick just had to visit again. I also took the opportunity to do some grocery shopping, ready for a number of days away from major centres.

A lovely spot by the creek

We took our time leaving Atherton as the drive to Etty Bay would only take about 1 ½ hours and we didn’t want to arrive too early.