Wunaamin Conservation Park – Dulundi Silent Grove Campground

 29 – 31 August 2022

We had booked 2 nights camping at Silent Grove before we left Mount Barnett Roadhouse and continued along the Gibb River Road, with a stop at Imintji store to buy some bread and have a coffee. From there it was a short drive to the turn-off to Silent Grove.

We found a nice shady spot and Mick did some exploring, looking for birds around the campground. This campground comes complete with flushing toilets and hot showers as well as some picnic tables. It was lovely to have so much shade but we did struggle a bit to get enough solar power happening. It didn’t help that the batteries were well below 100% after three days off-grid and only a relatively short drive to get here.

We made an early start to drive up to Dalmanyi Bell Gorge, about 11 kilometres from the campground. The 1.5 kilometre walk starts with a big downhill section and then follows the creekline to the top of the falls. It is possible to keep going and scramble down to the lower pools, but we were satisfied with the pool near the top. I enjoyed a long swim while Mick took some more photos.

The uphill walk back to the carpark took a bit of an effort but this walk was far easier than some we had been on lately. On the way back we passed a tour group who had just arrived so we felt we had timed our departure well. It’s so much nicer to not have crowds around when visiting places like this.

We spent another relaxing afternoon back at the camp while considering our next stop. We decided on Bandilngan Windjana Gorge National Park. Thanks to good Optus cover, we were able to book two nights before leaving Silent Grove.

We left Silent Grove and headed back to the Gibb River Road for the final unsealed section. The bitumen starts at the Fairfield-Leopold Downs Road junction and goes all the way to Derby.

Manning Gorge

 26 – 29 August 2022

We returned to Drysdale River Station and refuelled, topped up the water tanks and also picked up some more UHT milk. We made a cuppa under a shady tree then left Drysdale River Station and continued west towards Mount Barnett Station and on to Manning Gorge Campground. At around 170 kilometres and with a fairly good section of road we arrived in time for lunch. We checked in at the roadhouse and opted for three nights. Manning Gorge campground is about 7 kilometres from the roadhouse and entry fees apply but they do offer a good discount for seniors. We drove down to the campground and were able to find a nice shady spot. Once again as it was late in the season it wasn’t as full as it might have been, which we were glad about.

We headed down to the river for a look and later found our way to a great swimming spot just a short distance from the campground. We decided to have a rest day and spend Saturday swimming and relaxing after a few busy days. The pool noodles certainly came in handy.

On Sunday we set off early for the 6 kilometre round trip to Manning Gorge. To get to the walk you have to cross the river either by boat on a pulley system or by wading and swimming through the water. We chose the boat which was a bit of fun but also required a bit of effort. Once across the other side, there was quite a bit of rock scrambling but nothing as serious as the Mitchell Falls walk. Quite a lot of the walk was along a well made path. Once we arrived at the gorge there was some more rock scrambling but the pay-off at the end made it all worthwhile. Manning Gorge is magnificent and we enjoyed a lovely swim in this fabulous place.

On the way out we found some of the rock art nearby and then made our way back to camp. By that time it was getting quite hot so we stopped at home to have morning tea then wandered back down to the swimming spot, which we revisited later in the day as well.

Manning Gorge campground is a great spot to spend a few days – toilets, hot showers, fire pits and great swimming close to camp as well as a stunning gorge within a reasonable walking distance. When it was time to leave we returned to the roadhouse to refuel and top up the water tanks. We also spent some time online to book our next stop – Silent Grove.

Drysdale River Station

 25 – 26 August 2022

After leaving Munurru we continued along the Kalumburu Road back to Drysdale River Station. It was good to be able to have a hot shower and do the washing, then settle down for a few drinks. We made contact with a birder friend who was heading up to Mitchell Falls in the following days. We enjoyed a relaxing evening swapping notes.

As a special treat and to celebrate our successful journey to Mitchell Falls we had dinner at the restaurant. This consisted of a roast buffet – pork with all the trimmings and lots of fresh vegetables. We hadn’t eaten fresh veggies for quite a few days so we enjoyed our meal very much, although we both probably ate a little too much.

In the morning Mick had to do some repairs on the trailer – the fridge slide and gear slide had both suffered some minor damage on the rough road. With that done we packed up and drove back down to the river to have a look for some birds. It’s a lovely spot to spend some time.

From Drysdale we set off back towards the Gibb River Road and stopped for lunch at the rest area at the junction of Gibb River and Kalumburu Roads. From there it was on to Mount Barnett Station and Manning Gorge.

Mitchell River National Park - Mitchell Falls Campground

 21 – 25 August 2022

A visit to Punamii-Uunpuu (Mitchell Falls) was the main reason for driving the Gibb River Road so after a night at Munurru we were finally very close. Many people leave their caravans or camper trailers at Munurru and day trip in, but the 80 kilometres was rough going and took us about 1 ¾ hours. We were very glad we had planned to stay a few days and also that our off-road camper trailer was up to the task. Even though the road was rough, the drive was magnificent. At times, you are driving along the ridgeline with some great views, and at other times you are driving through forests of endemic livistona palms.

We arrived at the campground before lunch time and paid for three nights. Unlike most Western Australia National Parks campgrounds you cannot book and pay online so it is essential to carry some cash to pay for camping. There weren’t too many people there as it was quite late in the season and we were able to get a nice spot with some shade but where we would also be able to get the solar panels into the sun. There were toilets nearby and non-potable water there as well. Some sites also have fire pits. The down side of this campground is the proximity to the helipad with its constant traffic taking people to and from the falls. 

There is a good swimming spot at Little Mertens Falls about 1 kilometre along the track from the campground so we set off in the afternoon to try it out. Unfortunately it’s not signposted and the information boards are a bit misleading. The quoted distance is to the top of the falls, but you have to keep walking and turn off the track to do some rock scrambling in order to get to the bottom of the falls. It was a bit of an effort but so worthwhile to be able to have a dip in such a lovely spot. With temperatures in the mid 30’s forecast, we figured we’d come down here more than once.

Our main purpose for visiting Mitchell Falls was so Mick could photograph the rare Black Grasswren. He had been given some information that would help him locate one, and had done his homework regarding habitat, call and behaviour. The likely spots were along the walk to the falls so we set off just after 7:00am full of hope. We had difficulty with the GPS co-ordinates we had been given, but a location description proved to be correct and he found the bird. Of course this lead to a very long session trying to get the perfect shot but the bird did not oblige.

We eventually continued the walk which is about 9 kilometres return and a Grade 5. The walk varies from an easy stroll along well made paths, to scrambling up and down over rocks. I found it hard going at times but was determined to get all the way to the falls. We made it to the end and were rewarded with views of this stunning set of waterfalls. This is such a popular spot, we counted 6 helicopters in the air or just landed when we first arrived. We had a swim near the top of the falls at a spot suggested by one of the tour guides as the easiest place to get in and out. After our swim and a snack we set off for the return journey. Most people helicopter one or both ways but we had to walk so we could keep an eye and ear out for the Black Grasswren. We had thought we might have a swim at Little Mertens Falls on the way back but it was almost 11:00 am and even though we were hot we were so exhausted we couldn’t contemplate the extra distance. We made it back to camp and spent the rest of the day resting.

We decided to add an extra night so over the next couple of days Mick returned to the spot where he had first spotted the Grasswren about 2 kilometres from camp, and also walked the Riverview track. He also spent some time near the day use area as they had been sighted there as well. Unfortunately none of this paid off with any better photographs. We also managed to fit in another swim at Little Mertens Falls where we also found the art sites, and also had a swim close to camp in the creek.

Mick did take lots of photos of other birds while we were there too. There were some very friendly Partridge Pigeons, some of whom came quite close to our camp and also a Boobook roosting in the hollow of the tree beside our camp. We watched him leave each night and Mick saw him return one morning,

Getting to Mitchell Falls is quite an effort – the road condition can vary considerably but by all reports it is nearly always pretty awful, but it certainly worthwhile. We love camping in National Parks and going for walks – although not usually as long and as difficult as this one! We think is it definitely better to camp there rather than day trip in as you have more time to enjoy all that there is to see and do – and then to rest afterwards.

After four nights we finally left Mitchell Falls and headed back the way we had come. We made our first stop at the art site closest to the Munurru Campground. We had heard about the artwork there and were very keen to see it. This site is known as the Warnmarri (Brolga) Complex and is well signposted, just off the main road. We set off along the track and were astounded at the number and quality of images to be found. There is no interpretive information but a book available at Drysdale River Station contains comprehensive information about this and the other nearby site. I had looked at the book while at Mitchell Falls thanks to a generous fellow camper so we had some idea about what we were seeing.

After a good look around the site we continued on to the Munurru day use area. We had lunch at one of the picnic tables and were contemplating a swim when a tour bus arrived. We decided to give it a miss and continue on to the next art site – The Wandjina Complex - which was a few kilometres down the road.  This one is also well signposted and is just before the river crossing. Once again we were amazed at the fabulous images, especially the mythical Wandjina after whom this site is named, and the Gwion (Bradshaw) figures. We spent another half hour wandering around this site.

We set off again and rejoined the Kalumburu Road on the way back to Drysdale River Station where we would stop for an overnighter.

Munurru (King Edward River)

 20 – 21 August 2022

After delicious scones with jam and cream at Ellenbrae Station we rejoined the Gibb River Road and continued westwards. We stopped at the rest area at the Kalumburu Road junction and had a cuppa. Once again we chatted with fellow travellers and the main topic of conversation after “which way are you headed?” was the road condition.

We were heading to Ngauwudu (Mitchell Plateau) and Punamii Uunpuu (Mitchell Falls) so set off up the Kalumburu Road and stopped at Drysdale Homestead. We had intended to spend the night there, but it wasn’t even lunch time and the campground didn’t look very inviting at that time of day so we fuelled up and topped up the water tank and set off again. At the suggestion of some other travellers we stopped for lunch at the river crossing just a few kilometres down the road. We found a shady spot and sat on the sand, enjoying a break from the rough road. We had been told that it was better after about 20 kilometres but I think “better” is a very subjective term. There were some better sections, but in general it was still pretty rough – although not as bad as we had anticipated.

We had decided to spend a night at Munurru on the way to Mitchell Falls so turned into the campground, paid our camping fee and also our Uunguu Visitor Pass fee. This pass is needed to visit a number of spots along the Port Warrender Road, including Mitchell Falls. The UVP would be valid for 5 nights and we weren’t sure whether that would be enough. We had settled for one night at Munurru, with the possibility of staying again on our way back.

We found a nice camp spot with plenty of room and some shade. The camp sites at Munurru all look to be quite large and could easily accommodate groups travelling together. Once we had set up we went for a walk to try to find the swimming area but we were not successful. Before we left in the morning we drove down to the day use area and there was the swimming spot – it looked like a great place for a dip. There are also a couple of art sites nearby but we decided to leave these for the return journey.

Ellenbrae Station

 18 – 20 August 2022

We left Parry Creek Farm and drove the long way back towards Wyndham so that Mick could try again for the finches we had seen on our drive the previous morning. We stopped along the way and he did manage to get a few shots. From there we drove back into town where we picked up some groceries at the supermarket and bread rolls from the very good bakery. We also fuelled up and then we were on our way to the next part of our adventure – Gibb River Road.

We followed the Great Northern Highway back towards Kununurra then turned off onto “The Gibb”. The first hundred or so kilometres of this famous outback road is bitumen – with the last section leading to the Pentecost River just finished. I drove across the river crossing made famous in many YouTube videos but the only challenge was the rocky surface as the water level was way down at this time of year and there were only a few puddles to drive through.

Once on the other side the real challenge began.  We stopped to take air out of the tyres and chatted to some people who had just arrived at the crossing from the other direction. They told us about the road condition – which we know can change daily – and the adventures they had been on.

Mick took over the driving as we were expecting some bad road conditions. It certainly was corrugated and rough in parts, but probably not as bad as we had expected. There aren’t many spots to stop but we did pull in to a lookout but decided it wasn’t a great place for lunch – no shade and very exposed. We drove on and found a pull over where we made lunch and sat in the car to eat it.

We continued west and took the turn for the short drive in to Ellenbrae Station. We were to spend the night there and were impressed with the lovely green lawn around the homestead. We were allocated to one of the two campgrounds and made our way to “Ringers”. Although there was another nice green lawn around the amenities and seating area, the rest of the campground was dry and dusty. We could pick our own spot and, because it was still quite early, we were able to get one with some shade. Once we were set up we wandered down to the swimming hole for a look. I ended up standing in the water up to my knees while we chatted to some other travellers. It would have been a nice spot for a swim if we were staying a couple of days, but we had decided on just one.

In the morning we packed up and Mick carried out some more minor repairs – the fridge cable had broken so a fix was required. Ellenbrae is famous for their scones so we drove back to the homestead for a very early morning tea treat before setting off again towards Drysdale Station.

Wyndham

 10 – 19 August 2022

We left Lake Argyle and drove back into Kununurra where we did some shopping and refuelled before having a picnic lunch at the Celebrity Tree Park. We then returned to the Victoria Highway and continued onto the Great Northern Highway into Wyndham. We found the caravan park and selected an unpowered spot with plenty of shade, but which we found later wouldn’t be so great for solar.

The caravan park manager gave Mick some information about local birdwatching spots so we made a fairly early start in the morning and were delighted to see the resident brolgas having a  bit of a dance near our camp. It was quite a treat to see this behaviour close up while eating our breakfast. 

After the morning’s entertainment we set off for the King River Road where there are a number of birdwatching spots along the river. After stopping at a number of these we continued on to the Prison Boab Tree. This is one of a number of boabs that were used as “lock-ups” by police when transporting aboriginal prisoners to Wyndham for sentencing. This grand old tree is a stark reminder of the harsh treatment Australia’s First Nations people.

The next morning we set off earlier to revisit the best spot on the river and Mick spent around two hours sitting quietly hoping for some great shots. On our way back along King River Road we turned off to visit Moochalabra Dam. There is a small picnic area with just a couple of tables but no toilets, and a lookout over the dam. We didn’t stay long, then drove back down the road and stopped to have a look at some Aboriginal rock art. This involved a short scramble up and then a walk along a rock shelf. Mick continued the scramble along the ledge. There is lots of art, including Wandjina Spirit ancestors, but no interpretative information. Much of it is faded and the overpainting made it difficult to identify individual pictures. It was, however, still worth the short detour and climb.

We returned to town via a shortcut across the mud flats – perfectly dry at this time of year. Late in the afternoon we drove up to the Five Rivers Lookout. At 330 metres above sea level this lookout provides a spectacular view of the five rivers -  King, Ord, Durack, Forrest and Pentecost – that flow into the Cambridge Gulf. It is hard to imagine what it would look like in the wet season!

On Saturday morning Mick went out early for a look around town for the Gouldian Finches that had been seen the day before. He did find them but didn’t get the perfect shot. The afternoon was hot - 36°- so a swim was in order. Thankfully the nights had been more pleasant. Mick made contact with a local who takes people to a water point and hide he had set up and arranged to go there on Tuesday morning so our original 3 nights on an umpowered site has turned into a week with power.

Mick arranged to meet another birder on Sunday morning to try to find the Gouldians again. It wasn't terribly successful, but after a quiet morning they headed out again in the afternoon. The Gouldians were about, but not well posed for photos unfortunately.

On Monday morning we drove out to Marlgu Billabong and were the only ones there - apart from a wonderful variety of birds. We had left it relatively late, and the light was a bit harsh for photography but it was still a great place to sit in the hide and observe the activity.

We left the billabong and set the GPS to take us to Telegraph Hill. That was a mistake! She had us driving on some very dodgy tracks - and in the completely wrong direction. We eventually found our way to the hill and the remains of the telegraph station. There is a short walk around the ruins and fabulous views of the billabong and wetland below.

There is a very good bakery in Wyndham and we had already sampled their fresh bread, bread rolls and cakes so trying out the pies was a must do. Mick settled for the breakfast pie - steak, bacon and egg - while I just had to have the garlic barramundi. Both pies were delicious and I was particularly surprised by the large quantity of big chucks of fresh barra. Yum!

On Tuesday morning Mick was up early - again - to go out to the Gouldian finch spot with "Bushy" (by name and nature) and another birder we had met at the caravan park. The finches were there as promised and Mick arrived home with lots of photos to go through.

After a lovely seven day stay in the caravan park in town, we headed off for a couple of nights at Parry Creek Farm, out of town and close to Marlgu Billabong. We stopped for some suppplies and arrived mid-morning. Despite the great reviews we were a little disappointed - after a lovely shady, grassy park, the dry dusty sites with little shade convinced us we had made the right decision in spending most of our time in town. To add to the disappointment the restaurant was fully booked for one night and the other was the chef's night off so only one menu item would be available. 

Because we were relatively early, we were able to get a spot with a bit of dappled shade for some of the day, although it was still very hot. We took a walk around the billabong, inlcuding along the elevated walkway before retreating to the shade created by the trailer.

During the night we could see the glow of a fire nearby and we woke to a very hazy, smoky morning. We drove down to Marlgu Billabong and along some of the many tracks the criss-cross the area, looking for particular birds. Mick spotted some on the road from the caravan park and again on one of the tracks. 

We finally left the billabong and headed in to Wyndham to fuel up and buy some extra supplies for our journey along the Gibb River Road.

Lake Argyle

5 - 10 August 2022

After 6 fabulous nights in Purnululu National Park we left the park and returned to the Great Northern Highway on our way to Lake Argyle. We had stopped at the picnic area at the turn-off to put air back in the tyres, do a small repair and have a cuppa. From there we drove on to Dunham Rest Area again where we disposed of our rubbish in the industrial bins provided then continued on to Cockburn Rest Area where we stopped for lunch.

We had left the national park very early to allow time to stop in Kununurra to refuel and do some shopping. Once we had restocked we continued on the 70 km to Lake Argyle, where we would spend the next 5 nights. The resort/caravan park was built around the old workers village with some remnants of the time when the dam was being built still visible. 

The forecast was for hot days, and hot nights (24 - 27 degrees overnight) so we were hoping for a shady spot. We did get some shade but no view of the lake from our site, even though it was only a short walk away. We spent the afternoon settling in and familiarising ourselves with our surroundings. We decided on dinner at the onsite bistro/beer garden. It was a good way to end a long day in the car.

In the morning we drove down to the boat ramp and called into the cruise office to check a few things out about the cruises we had booked. We were both going on the sunset cruise and Mick was going on a birdwatching cruise.

Because of the early sunset in this part of the world, the pick-up for this cruise was 2:30pm. The bus picks up at the caravan park for the short ride to the boat ramp. The boat ride was comfortable and took us to a number of interesting spots to see the wildlife including short-eared rock wallabies, freshwater crocodiles and archer fish. Along the way our guide told us about the constuction of the dam which created this massive lake. He also related a little of the story of white settlement by the well-known Durack family. The commentary was interesting and well presented and included a map display to show where we had been on the lake which helped to put the massive size into perspective.

We then motored on to the sunset spot where guests are invited to jump in for a swim - pool noodles provided - and a drink. The combination of the cold water and a cold beer meant most people didn't stay in long. Some young chaps who had decided not to use a pool noodle soon found that paddling one handed in cold water while trying not to spill your beer was quite difficult and happily accepted the pool noodles offered by those leaving the water. Swimming in the lake with a glass of bubbles or can of beer, while the sun set, is an experience not to be missed! 

The following day we pottered around at home for the morning and had a swim in the infinity pool - with obligatory photos - in the afternoon then enjoyed sunset drinks on the lawn overlooking the lake. It was another great way to end the day.

The next morning we made an early start for the short drive to Dead Horse Springs which had been recommended as a birdy spot. Mick found lots to photograph there. The afternoon was very hot so we had another swim followed by drinks on the lawn at sunset.

On Tuesday morning Mick was booked on the sunrise birdwatching cruise which departed at 5:30am so that meant a very early start. The tour included some land based birding as well and went for about 6 hours. The opportunity for photography wasn't as good as he had hoped but Mick still managed to take over 2 600 photos. Of course much of the afternoon was spent going through them - but we did find time to have another swim and to go for a drive to the barbecue/picnic area past the dam wall. We finished the day with drinks with a birdwatching friend.

Early on our last morning Mick revisited Dead Horse Springs before we packed up and headed back in to Kununurra to fuel up and restock again, then on to Wyndham.

Purnululu National Park - Walardi Campground

 2 - 5 August 2022

We made our way from Kurrajong Campground to Walardi Campground and arrived around morning tea time. Walardi is smaller than Kurrajong with only 37 sites, compared to Kurrajong's 106. Because we were early we had a good choice of spots and again found one that we thought would suit us. This campground has a lot more bush around so the opportunity to collect solar throughout the day wasn't as good as at Kurrajong, but we managed well enough. The bonus was a nearby tap with a good spot for Mick to set up with the camera and tripod, and a few neighbours who were also birders.

The weather forecast was for more hot days, and some slightly warmer nights, so we rose early to get to Piccaninny before the heat set in. We decided to head out to Piccaninny Creek Lookout first as it was described as a 2.8km, Class 3 walk that is exposed to the sun. Once again we walked along a creek bed for part of the way, but this one was undulating smooth sandstone underfoot. At the end of the walk we were rewarded with a view over Piccaninny Creek towards the Ord River, beehive domes and Dixon Range. 

Returning to the main track we walked back towards the carpark and turned off to Cathedral Gorge, another of Purnululu's most well-known features. Cathedral Gorge Walk is described as 2 km return (from the carpark) and Class 4, but once again we found it fairly easy. The track includes another walk through a creek bed and among beehive domes which are just awseome, with the gorge at the end of the walk. When we arrived, it was so quiet, with the few others there sitting in silence just taking it all in. Even the children were quiet! It's just that kind of place. We spent quite a while enjoying the cool in this special place, chatting quietly to new friends who just happen to live in Hobart.

After leaving Cathedral Gorge we returned to the main track and left it again for The Domes walk, a 700m, Class 3 loop. This walk allows a close-up look at the iconic beehive domes for which Purnululu is famous. Here you can see the layers of sediment and protective banding of iron oxide and cyanobacteria that gives the domes their distinctive look.

By the time we had finsihed taking in all these magnificent sights, it was almost lunchtime so we headed home with so many photos - it's so hard not to keep taking shots of everything you see. We enjoyed a restful afternoon including some socialising with neighbours.

After a number of very active days, and having completed all the walks that we wanted to do, we had a rest day on our final full day at Purnululu. Mick staked out the water point and we started to get packed up so we could get away early in the morning. We wanted to allow plenty of time to refuel and shop in Kunnurra as well as time to stop and look for birds along the way.

We set the alarm for 5:30am, and rose just as the sun was starting to get up. We packed as quietly as we could, but most of our near neighbours were up anyway. We stopped to chat to new friends and were away before 7:00am. We weren't looking forward to the long and slow drive out of the park, and made it back to the entrance just after 8:30am. We stopped to put air back in the tyres and have a cup of coffee. We also discovered that the Anderson plug that provides power to the camper trailer battery while driving had broken off, so Mick replaced it with the one from the compressor. We would have to buy a new one (or maybe 2) in Kunnurra. We were back on the road in just over 1/2 hour, heading for Lake Argyle.

Purnululu National Park - Kurrajong Campground

 30 July - 2 August 2022

When we did our trip around Australia in 1991 (no-one called it “doing the lap” in those days) we weren’t able to visit Purnululu National Park as it had already closed for the season, so we had it as a priority for this trip. We set off from Kununurra and made a morning tea stop at Cockburn Rest Area. This is also used as a 24 hour free camp and the number of birds around had us seriously considering it for when we would be on the way to Wyndham be in a couple of weeks.

From there we drove on and stopped for lunch at Dunham River Rest Area, another one used as a 24 hour free camp. This one looked much nicer that Cockburn but there weren’t any birds around. We continued on to the turn-off to Purnululu National Park, where we stopped to let some air out of the tyres. We had read that the road into the national park is in poor condition so we wanted to be prepared. The drive from the turn-off to the Visitor Centre is 53 kilometres and took about an hour and a half. Yes, the road was as bad as we had expected. There were a number of shallow creek crossings and lots of corrugations, as well as windy and narrow sections – but the views were magnificent.

We had booked three nights at each of the two campgrounds – Kurrajong (in the northern section of the park, and Walardi (in the southern section) – and we were required to check in at the visitor centre before travelling on to the campground. We obtained our camp tags and arrived at Kurrajong, the larger of the two campgrounds, after 4:00pm. We took our time to choose the best spot for us and found one that would give us afternoon shade as well as lots of sun to keep the solar powering the batteries. There are toilets and taps scattered throughout the campground so we were not far from those either. Although there was lots of bush around we could see to the ranges so we felt we had the perfect spot.

We decided on Homestead Valley as our first walk so we set off quite early to avoid the heat of the day. With afternoon temperatures in the thirties, it was best to walk in the mornings. The Homestead Walk leaves from The Bloodwoods and is described as a 4.4km return, Class 3 walk. It involves walking along the dry creek bed, through rocks, stones and pebbles. The end of the walk is at a very nice shaded picnic area. Although old Aboriginal stockmen spoke of a homestead in the valley, there is no physical evidence of one having been there. It’s a lovely walk, with or without a homestead at the end.

We finished there at around 10:00 am and made our way down the road to Echidna. We had a cup of coffee before setting off to walk into Echidna Chasm. This is one of Purnululu’s best-known features with the middle of the day the best time to visit. When the sun is overhead, the walls of the chasm seem to glow. The walk is 4.2km and described at Class 3 to the chasm, then Class 4 inside. This walk also involved walking along a dry, rocky creek bed. Once inside the chasm it was easy to see why it is so well-known. The place is just magnificent and we timed it well to see the changing colours of the rock walls. The walk wasn’t too difficult but we did need to do some rock scrambling towards the end. We both took so many photos – it was hard to know when to stop.

From Echidna Chasm we returned to camp in time for lunch and then a very restful afternoon trying to beat the heat. The best place to be was in the shade of the awning. Late in the afternoon we walked up the nearby hill to the sunset viewing area. We were a bit early but had left time to stop and look for birds in the spinifex along the way. The views from the top were fabulous.

The following day we set off early again to do some short walks. First up it was back down to Echidna for the Osmand Lookout – a short 1km return, Class 3 walk, which we actually found very easy. Once again fabulous views, of the Osmand Ranges, that were formed millions of years ago. From there we drove back down to the Bloodwoods to the Bloodwood Lookout. This was also approximately 500m and Class 3, but again quite easy, and with more amazing views of the Bungle Bungle Range and surrounding woodlands. Our final walk for the morning was Stonehenge. We still have no idea how it was named as it was a botanical walk with lots of interpretative information about how the various plants were used as food, medicine and to make tools and weapons.

Before returning home we revisited the Information Centre to buy a t-shirt. We are not big on souvenirs but I had been searching for a nice shirt for quite a while and this one in gunmetal grey with the very understated Purnululu logo featuring the domes, suited me nicely.

Late in the afternoon we drove up to Kungkalanay Lookout for the sunset. The path splits at the top so there are two sunset viewing spots - both with some seats. Once again the sunset view was very popular. It's important to check what time the sun actually sets as we saw a few groups arriving after it had already gone down. At this time of year in this part of Western Australia sunset occurs at about 5:15pm. 

In the morning we packed up our camp and drove the 18km or so over to Walardi Campground where we would spend the next three nights.