Coward Springs

 14 – 17 April 2022

After leaving Andamooka we returned to Roxby Downs then on through Olympic Dam and on to the Borefield Track which would take us to the Oodnadatta Track. There are no rest stops along this road so we just had to find a place to pull over to make a cuppa and to air down the tyres. The road itself was in fairly good condition so the drive was not too difficult, but was easier with a little less air.

We made it to the Oodnadatta Track and turned north. We stopped at Kati Thanda - Lake Eyre South lookout where we had some lunch while marvelling at the way the salt lake appeared to be full of water. We later realised it was actually full of water - floodwaters from Queensland had arrived and the level was now receding.  Unfortunately there are no facilities at this very popular spot – no toilets or picnic tables. There was an information board, but we decided to return one morning for sunrise and have a good look around then.

Kati Thanda - Lake Eyre is Australia's largest salt lake and is actually two lakes - Kati Thanda - Lake Eyre North and Kati Thanda - Lake Eyre South, joined by the Goyder Channel. At 15.2m below sea levek it is the lowest point on the Australian mainland.

We continued on and turned off the road at  Wabma Kadarbu Mound Springs Conservation Park. There are two springs to visit – Blanche Cup and “The Bubbler”. Both have boardwalks leading up to, and part way around, them. There is also good signage providing lots of information. The road in however, was a shocker.

We returned to the Oodnadatta Track and continued on to our next destination – Coward Springs. We had booked ahead so when we arrived my name was on the “Welcome” blackboard with the name of our designated campsite – Dingoes. We found it easily and set up. Although it looked a little small at first it turned out to be just perfect with the right mix of shade and sun with plenty of room to put the awning out and have the car easily accessible. There was also a fire drum and seat. Best of all was the view. We were facing the paddocks and open ground to the east so were able to see the great sunrises. It was a bit of a walk to the toilets but worth it not to be looking right at the neighbours.

We spent some time exploring the surrounds, including the wetland walk, and settling in while we decided on how we would spend the next few days. Mick had been given some information about potential bird sightings so he decided on an early morning drive along the road and back in time for morning tea. 

The weather was very hot, but we felt we had to sample the “natural spa” at least once so we headed down after a cuppa. The “spa” is just a very small pool, just big enough for 2 or 4 if you are together. Fortunately for us we chose the time when most overnight campers had left, and the next round hadn’t arrived. We enjoyed a bubble in the mineral springs which felt cool and comfortable. We handed over to a family after a relaxing 15 minutes or so. Everyone seems to respect the need to relinquish their turn after a reasonable period of time. 

On our second morning we were up at 5:00am as we had calculated we could be at Kati Thanda - Lake Eyre South for the sunrise, and we were spot on. We arrived just on 6:00am, as the sun was just peeking over the horizon. Unfortunately for us there was no cloud so the hoped for spectacular sunrise was rather ordinary, but still magical to be all alone in this wonderful spot. We made a cup of tea while watching the view and taking some photos. Mick then spent a good bit of time looking for a particular bird and was pleased with the result.

On our final morning Mick again went out north along the road, and returned to pack up and set off again. Travelling south the way we had come we made a few stops for photos and another session at the lookout. From there we continued south and back on to the Borefield Road to Roxby Downs for the night.