Marla, Erldunda and Curtin Springs

Marla

23 - 24 April 2022

We had 4 nights to fill in between leaving Coober Pedy and our booking at Yulara (Ayers Rock Campground) so we set off with a bit of a plan - and the ability to be flexible. Driving north we stopped at Cadney Park Homestead (Roadhouse) and bought lunch. We'd seen the campground coming in and it didn't look too appealing so we decided to keep going. Rain was forecast but it didn't look like there would be much and it seemed that the chance lessened further north.

We pulled in to Marla and the campground looked nice so we decided that would do us nicely. Marla has only existed as a town since 1981, when the roadhouse was established. We checked in and were directed to the campground where we set up in the unpowered section. As with most places, unpowered was a bit of a free-for-all but we eventually settled on a nice spot beside some green grass. We went for a drive to have a look for birds out near the airstrip and returned home to find the weather forecast had been changed and that more rain was predicted to fall overnight.

We only heard a few light spots of rain overnight and weren't too concerned to see that the forecast now indicated thunderstorms. We couldn't see any rain on the BoM radar - even though it was raining when we climbed out of bed. Unfortunately we had left it too late and the promised thunderstorm was fast approaching. We quickly made a cup of tea and beat a hasty retreat into the car - there was lightening around so we didn't want to be sitting in the camper. Eventually the worst of the storm passed and we waited a while but had to pack up in the rain. It's not easy folding in all the canvas when it is wet - lucky we don't have to do it very often.

From Marla we continued north and the clouds cleared ahead of us, but it was very black to the south and east of us. We stopped to make a cup of coffee at The Marryat Creek Rest Area then contiued to SA/NT Border rest stop. Between the border rest area and Port Augusta there is only one rest area with toilets - Bon Bon. It's no wonder Bon Bon is so popular and the toilets in need of some maintenance. Surely it's not too much to expect a toilet stop (without having to be paying customer at a roadhouse) every few hundred kilometres?

From there we continued on to Erldunda Roadhouse at the turn-off to Yulara.

Erldunda

24 - 26 April 2022

We had planned two nights in Erldunda because there is a particularly birdy spot about 20km north. We arrived just on lunch time and checked in. You can choose your own site so we selected one with some nice shade. We settled in and enjoyed a relaxed afternoon while the canvas dried out. We walked up to the sunset lookout and saw lots of black clouds around. We hoped we wouldn't get rained on again.

We were up early the next morning to go chasing birds. We found the spot and Mick spend a couple of hours traipsing around with the camera in hand. Then it was back home for another restful day. Erldunda is a very popular overnight spot and we were one of only about three who were staying longer.

We still had one night to kill before our booking at Yulara so we headed off for Curtin Springs for another overnighter.

Curtin Springs

26 - 27 April 2022

We headed west from Erldunda towards Curtin Springs and made a couple of stops along the way. The first was a roadside rest area where we had a cup of coffee and a quick look around. The second was at the Mount Conner Lookout Rest Area. This one has toilets and a good view of Mount Conner. Walking up the dune across the road reveals a huge salt lake. Most travellers don't know that it's there. It's well worth the climb.

From there we continued on the short distance to Curtin Springs. This is a popular spot that offers free unpowered camping. Some people stay and do day trips in to see Uluru. There is a roadhouse, shop, bar and bistro. To stay all you need to do is check in at the shop, where a map and explanation of where you can camp is provided. We found a spot near a tree that provided some good shade through the afternoon.

Because we only had a short distance to travel to Yulara we had a lazy morning and didn't leave until mid-morning.

Coober Pedy

 19 - 23 April 2022

After a rainy night at Bon Bon Rest area Mick ventured out in the morning for some bird photos before we packed up and set off for Coober Pedy. The rain had cleared fortunately and it was shaping up to be a beautiful day. We stopped just south of our destinatoion for a quick look at a possible birdy spot with a view to returning in the late afternoon or early morning one day. We continued on and arrived at the caravan park we had chosen just on lunch time.

We set up and had lunch before a relaxing afternoon - Mick had hundreds of photos to go through so he was quite busy. In the morning we drove back down to the Hutchison Memorial to look for birds, but no luck with the desired Gibberbird. We'd have to try somewhere else. On returning to town we called in to the Visitor Information Centre to purchase a permit to go out to The Breakaways, and also to get some more ideas about what to do in and around Coober Pedy. The chap we spoke to gave Mick some information about more birdy spots - in particular the water treatment plant. 

We went back to the caravan park for morning tea then went down to find the water treatment plant and it looked like it would be a great spot. We had a quick look around town, including a drive up to the Big Winch 360 Lookout. In the late afternoon Mick returned to photograph birds around the water treatment plant. 

One of the "must do" activities when in Coober Pedy is to drive out to the Breakaways, so we did. We decided to try for sunrise but just missed it as the sun popped over the horizon while we were still on the highway. This loop drive travels through some geological marvels in the Kanku - Breakaways Conservation Park. The Conservation Park forms part of the traditional country of the Antakirinja Matuntjara Yankunytjatjara people. The landscape is truly amazing. There are a number of lookout points and some interpretative signage but no other facilities. 

The drive also travels along the famous "dog fence" - the longest fence in the world, constructed to keep dingoes out of grazing areas. It is an interesting juxtaposition to see the natural wonder along side this man-made one. We made lots of stops along the drive to photograph the landscape and look for birds. Heading back to town we stopped again near the water treatment plant, and returned home in time for morning tea. 

We treated ourselves to dinner at the on-site pizza "restaurant" on Thursday night. More like a licenced cafe, the pizza was good and service friendly. Pre-ordering in the afternoon was preferred and our pizza was ready just after we arrived. 

On Friday morning I set off to one of the tourist attractions - Old Timers' Mine. Mick gets very claustrophobic when underground so chose to stay home and edit some of his photos. I found the self-guided tour to be very interesting and great value for money. As with everywhere we had been in Coober Pedy, the staff were friendly and knowledgable. This tour takes in part of an original mine from 1916, as well as a home dug in the 1960's. There are lots of signs explaining the exhibits and stories of the original miners. After winding your way through the tunnels and caverns you emerge into the obligatory gift shop selling all kinds of opal jewellery and souvenirs.

On our last morning we packed up and picked up some supplies, then drove to the Wellbeing Labyrinth. This is fairly new and not well signposted but can be seen from the road into town if you know what to look for. I spent about 10 minutes quietly walking the labyrinth while Mick looked for birds - of course!

From Coober Pedy we headed north with Marla as our proposed stop for the night.

Roxby Downs and Bon Bon Rest Area (Wilgena)

17 – 19 April 2022

The next two stops would just be overnighters along the way to Coober Pedy. The first one was Roxby Downs where we also shopped and fuelled up. Once again it was the cheapest fuel around. The caravan park is set up with mostly accommodation for mine workers with only a few caravan sites – all on gravel and with barely enough room to put up an awning had we wanted to. The staff were friendly, the washing machines and driers were free and there was a terrific book and DVD exchange. We found it quite adequate for a night.

Once we left Roxby Downs we headed for the Stuart Highway at Pimba, where we turned north again. The forecast was for possible rain, but only small amounts so we weren’t too worried. We stopped at a couple of spots along the way to photograph the salt lakes. As we continued north the rain settled in and we decided on a burger at the roadhouse in Glendambo for lunch. While we were there I checked the forecast for Bon Bon Rest Area at Wilgena, and it looked like some rain until about 6:00pm. The radar showed it was clearing from the west so we pushed on.

As we drove we could see clearer skies and the rain had stopped by the time we arrived. We don’t usually overnight in rest areas, but this one was a known birdy spot, and also a popular overnighter so we joined the couple of caravans that were already there in the middle of the afternoon. There were still a few spits of rain and we were hopeful the forecast was correct – but it wasn’t. We watched black clouds roll in and made a quick decision on sandwiches for dinner and we rushed around bringing everything we would need into the tent.

The wind and rain continued for much of the night but in the early hours the rain stopped and eventually the wind died down too. By sunrise the sky had cleared and a gentle breeze was blowing. This combination would see the canvas drying in good time. We were in no hurry as Mick had some birds to find anyway.

 We had morning tea before packing up and setting off for Coober Pedy where we would spend the next few nights.

Coward Springs

 14 – 17 April 2022

After leaving Andamooka we returned to Roxby Downs then on through Olympic Dam and on to the Borefield Track which would take us to the Oodnadatta Track. There are no rest stops along this road so we just had to find a place to pull over to make a cuppa and to air down the tyres. The road itself was in fairly good condition so the drive was not too difficult, but was easier with a little less air.

We made it to the Oodnadatta Track and turned north. We stopped at Kati Thanda - Lake Eyre South lookout where we had some lunch while marvelling at the way the salt lake appeared to be full of water. We later realised it was actually full of water - floodwaters from Queensland had arrived and the level was now receding.  Unfortunately there are no facilities at this very popular spot – no toilets or picnic tables. There was an information board, but we decided to return one morning for sunrise and have a good look around then.

Kati Thanda - Lake Eyre is Australia's largest salt lake and is actually two lakes - Kati Thanda - Lake Eyre North and Kati Thanda - Lake Eyre South, joined by the Goyder Channel. At 15.2m below sea levek it is the lowest point on the Australian mainland.

We continued on and turned off the road at  Wabma Kadarbu Mound Springs Conservation Park. There are two springs to visit – Blanche Cup and “The Bubbler”. Both have boardwalks leading up to, and part way around, them. There is also good signage providing lots of information. The road in however, was a shocker.

We returned to the Oodnadatta Track and continued on to our next destination – Coward Springs. We had booked ahead so when we arrived my name was on the “Welcome” blackboard with the name of our designated campsite – Dingoes. We found it easily and set up. Although it looked a little small at first it turned out to be just perfect with the right mix of shade and sun with plenty of room to put the awning out and have the car easily accessible. There was also a fire drum and seat. Best of all was the view. We were facing the paddocks and open ground to the east so were able to see the great sunrises. It was a bit of a walk to the toilets but worth it not to be looking right at the neighbours.

We spent some time exploring the surrounds, including the wetland walk, and settling in while we decided on how we would spend the next few days. Mick had been given some information about potential bird sightings so he decided on an early morning drive along the road and back in time for morning tea. 

The weather was very hot, but we felt we had to sample the “natural spa” at least once so we headed down after a cuppa. The “spa” is just a very small pool, just big enough for 2 or 4 if you are together. Fortunately for us we chose the time when most overnight campers had left, and the next round hadn’t arrived. We enjoyed a bubble in the mineral springs which felt cool and comfortable. We handed over to a family after a relaxing 15 minutes or so. Everyone seems to respect the need to relinquish their turn after a reasonable period of time. 

On our second morning we were up at 5:00am as we had calculated we could be at Kati Thanda - Lake Eyre South for the sunrise, and we were spot on. We arrived just on 6:00am, as the sun was just peeking over the horizon. Unfortunately for us there was no cloud so the hoped for spectacular sunrise was rather ordinary, but still magical to be all alone in this wonderful spot. We made a cup of tea while watching the view and taking some photos. Mick then spent a good bit of time looking for a particular bird and was pleased with the result.

On our final morning Mick again went out north along the road, and returned to pack up and set off again. Travelling south the way we had come we made a few stops for photos and another session at the lookout. From there we continued south and back on to the Borefield Road to Roxby Downs for the night.

Andamooka

 13 – 14 April 2022

Leaving Port Augusta we called in to the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens for one last visit, then headed north along the Stuart Highway. We have travelled on various sections of this road, but have never driven north from Port Augusta. The scenery was quite stunning, and constantly changing. At Pimba we turned west towards Roxby Downs.

Woomera is only a short drive from Pimba so we stopped there for lunch. Woomera was established in 1947 as a long range weapons testing area It is still a “closed” town – you can’t choose to live there you must be part of a Defence team, or contractor. The town is well kept with a number of rockets, planes and missiles on display in the park. We found the displays interesting but the lack of interpretative information a bit disappointing.

From Woomera we drove on to Roxby Downs where we did some shopping and fuelled up. Roxby Downs is a mining town servicing the nearby Olympic Dam site. It seemed to have all the usual shops and amenities but we decided not to stay there as it was still quite early. Instead we made a 30km detour to Andamooka.

Andamooka is known for its opal mining and the community is working very hard to encourage tourism. To this end, a terrific community camp ground has been established on the edge of town. There are toilets and hot showers and a sheltered BBQ, as well as a playground – all for $4 per person per night. There is also power available near the amenities for $12 per night. The whole facility was spotlessly clean and had both rubbish and recycling bins.

We settled in a spot on the edge of the campground near an old “shack” that provided some shelter from the wind and also some shade, as well as views of the mullock heaps nearby. Of course Mick spotted some birds and went for a walk in the morning to try to get some photos.

Before we left Andamooka we drove into town and spent some time looking at the restored cottages. This is a fascinating insight into how the early residents of this small town adapted their homes and lives to suit the harsh desert environment.

From Andamooka we set off back towards Roxby Downs then on to the Oodnadatta Track.

Port Augusta

 10 – 13 April 2022

We were unsure about where to go next and were considering Gawler Ranges, then north on the Stuart Highway but there were also some good bird spots on the Oodnadatta Track. We decided to go and spend a few days in Port Augusta while we made up our minds.  On our way from Cradock we stopped for a cuppa in Quorn and realised that the Pichi Richi railway was running and would leave Quorn sometime that morning. The Pichi Richi is a heritage railway journey running between Quorn and Port Augusta. The original line was commenced in 1878 and formed part of the famous Ghan journey. After our somewhat early morning tea we went for a walk around the town and returned to the picnic area in time to see the engine getting up a good head of steam ready to set off. We joined many others taking photos of this seldom-seen sight.

From there we made our way to Port Augusta and found a small park on the foreshore for lunch before checking in at the caravan park. It was very hot, and the forecast was for more hot weather so we were glad to be able to spend some time in the camp kitchen and recreation room.

As always, we visited the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens – three times! The first morning we rose early and were there for 7:30am opening time. We spent some time in each of the two bird hides and also along the tracks where Mick had spied some flowering Xanthoreas. We also checked out the Eremophila gardens in the hope of finding some birds there.

On the second morning we arrived even earlier and found, as Mick had suspected, that the gates were already open, or perhaps they had never been closed. This time we visited one of the bird hides and spent the rest of the time on the tracks. There is a huge network of well-marked and signposted tracks that meander all over the property through various sections highlighting regional plants. It’s a great place to photograph plants, birds, animals, as well as the stunning landscape.

On our final morning in Port Augusta we made one last visit to the Gardens on our way out of town. This time we also treated ourselves to morning tea at the excellent café. We had finally settled on a route that would take us along the Stuart Highway then across to the Oodnadatta Track, and back to the Stuart Highway.

Cradock

 9 - 10 April 2022

While we chose our last stop - Orroroo - because we'd never been there before, we chose this one because we had. In 1991 we drove around Australia and called in to the pub at Cradock, where Mick did some signs for the publican - payment was a carton of beer. It seemed like a good idea to go back.

Cradock Pub offers camping for free if you buy a beer, or a meal, so we headed there from Orroroo. We arrived in the early afternoon, called in and spoke to the publican and chose a spot out the back. It's not much more than a dusty paddock - littered with broken glass, crockery and tiles - but there is 24 hour access to a fairly new toilet and shower block. We chose a spot well back from the pub building to avoid any late night noise. We set up by the creek which was completely dry, but with a beautiful view towards the Flinders Ranges.

We had a restful, but hot, afternoon and walked over to the pub for dinner. Traveller reviews suggested the meals were good, and they were absolutely spot on. There were a few travellers there, and along with the friendly staff, it was a good night.

We were still a little unsure about where to head next, and received some advice from others. We decided to settle in Port Augusta for a few nights while we made up our minds.

Orroroo

 7 - 9 April 2022

We chose Orroroo as our next stop simply beacuse we had never been there before and because we needed a couple of days in a caravan park after 4 nights at Gluepot. We left Gluepot after lunch and stopped briefly in Peterborough before arriving in Orroroo late in the afternoon. The caravan park is on the main road, and walking distance to the shops just a couple of blocks away. The staff were friendly and readily offered tourist information and booklets.

In the morning we took advantage of the laundry and did three loads of washing before heading into town to do some shopping. We visited the new collective which sold a range of goods from a number of traders including jewellery, yummy baked goods and other food  and craft products. We also visited the  local butcher to stock up for the next leg of our journey - more friendly locals doing great things to create a good impression of the town.

On Saturday morning we packed up camp and headed down to the Lions Picnic area to tackle the Pekina Creek walking trail. This 2.9km loop walk is rated 2 and includes a number of points of interest along the way. A brochure is available but there is also good signage along the way. It was a very pleasant walk but we were glad we had chosen to do it in the morning as the day was warming up. We called back into town and found the cheapest fuel in the area before setting off on one of the tourist driving loops.

The drive we chose takes in the Magnetic Hill - a bit of fun to see your vehicle seem to roll uphill. Again a brochure is available but the route and the magic spot are well signposted. It was a lovely drive that returned us to Orroroo in time for lunch, so we went back to the Lions Picnic area and sat by the water in the shade for our picnic. 

Our final stop before leaving Orroroo was the Giant Gum Tree - with a trunk measuring 10.4m in circumference and more than 6metres in height before the first branches, it is one of the largest River Red Gums in South Australia. It's age is estimated to be in excess of 500 years! It is quite a site and well worth the short drive out of town. There is a sheltered picnic area but no toilets.

We set the GPS for our next destination - Cradock where we would spend the night in the free camp behind the pub.

Gluepot

 3 - 7 March 2022

We visited Gluepot on the first leg of this trip, as well as on a previous one and we were both keen to return – Mick for the birds and me for the rest and relaxation. We left Berri and travelled towards Waikerie where we crossed the Murray River – again. The road into Gluepot was in much better condition than last time we came through when parts of it were covered in very large, boggy puddles and one section was completely washed out. The trip this time was much easier and quicker.

We called into the visitor centre and paid for two nights, but were still undecided if we would spend more time here. This time we chose Bellbird Campground as we have stayed at Sitella and Babbler camprounds before. As with the others, Bellbird is well laid out with plenty of room to spread out. We were the only ones there when we arrived. We had lunch then set up camp in a spot that would give us some shade as well as easy access to the toilets.

Mick drove down to the nearby Grasswren Tank bird hide for a short session with the camera, and returned late in the day. Daylight savings had ended on Sunday morning so an early morning session required a 6:00 am start. The sun was just starting to show over the horizon as the alarm sounded. Mick spent about three hours at the hide and was back in time for smoko.

The nights were cold, the mornings crisp and the days warm - perfect weather really, so we decided to extend our stay to 4 nights. Mick visited Grasswren Tank and bird hide each morning and on Tuesday afternoon we went for a drive together so he could spend a little time at a couple of other spots.

He had met some campers who were staying at Sitella Campground and had told him about an owlet nightjar there so we made that one of our stops. We were surprised to see the number of campsites occupied as we were still the only ones at Bellbird. We also stopped at Emu Tank on the way back towards the visitor centre. We had planned to pay for the extra nights but decided to hold off. The weather had started to change and we were no longer sure about staying.

After a couple of days of blue skies and practically no breeze, the dark clouds and strong winds had us a bit worried. There is no internet access anywhere on Gluepot so we had no idea what the forecast was for the next few days. The wind died down overnight and there was some light rain, but the sky was very cloudy in the morning. Dark clouds continued to build and it started to rain more heavily at around 8:30 - while Mick was down at the hide. The temperature had also dropped significantly. All we could do was hope that it would pass and the skies would clear later in the day.

The rain did pass and the temperature stayed quite mild. For the first night since we arrived there were other campers at the cmapground - but they only stayed the one night. On our final morning Mick returned to the hide for a morning session before coming back for morning tea and to pack up camp.  On the way out of the reserve we stopped for a quick lunch at Emu Tank, and then hit the road for Orroroo. Once again we would be visiting a place we had never been before.

Berri

 1 – 3 March 2002

We spent some time in the South Australian Riverland when we came through in November last year and thought we might go back to Waikerie, before returning to Gluepot, but changed our minds and settled on Berri instead. We left Lake Cullulleraine and headed west towards the border between Victoria and South Australia.

Quarantine warnings were posted regularly as we approached the border and we stopped at the designated bin and disposed of our last piece of fruit before continuing on to the quarantine checkpoint. The check was the most thorough we had experienced in 6 years of crossing state borders. The officer not only checked the fridge, pantry drawers, but also the couple of grocery bags visible on the back seat, including the one which contained the dirty clothes. I don't think he was expecting that!

We stopped for a coffee in Paringa and at a hardware store in Renmark before arriving at the caravan park we had booked in Berri. We had gained a ½ hour when we entered the main SA timezone so were set up before lunch time. We’d booked an ensuite site for two nights and were allocated one which was actually a drive through, right at the rear of the park, with a view to the neighbouring tennis court. 

We went for a walk along the river, and stopped in at the Visitor Information Centre which sold a good selection of locally produced goods. We located the supermarket and returned later in the day to stock up for the next leg of our trip which would see us visiting some more remote locations.

On Saturday morning we walked along the river again, into town to browse the shops and buy some of the produce from the visitor centre – smoked almonds, dried fruit and almond muesli. Berri is a good sized town with all the expected shops and amenities as well as a beautiful spot on the river.

On Sunday morning we set off again, this time headed for Gluepot Reserve.

Lake Cullulleraine

 30 March 2022 - 1 April 2022

We set off from Hattah-Kulkyne National Park after lunch and stopped briefly in Mildura to pick up some supplies. From there we headed west to Lake Cullulleraine. There are two lakeside caravan parks and the one we chose had lots of green grass and large sites. We were allocated one right on the lake with trees providing some shade. It was such a relaxing and peaceful spot we decided to make it two nights.

The wind picked up overnight and our tranquil setting was transformed as clouds of dust (topsoil from the nearby agricultural area) surrounded us and settled on everything, including inside the tent. We had seen signs coming along the highway, warning about dust storms, but hadn't registered that this could happen with the stronger winds forecast. Consequently we did spend a lot of time inside and only ventured out when the wind died down a bit, and to eat. Mick was happy editing photos anyway so it didn't really matter. Had the weather been better we might have gone for one of the lakeside walks.

Despite the dust and wind, Lake Cullulleraine is a nice spot, and one that looks like it is popular on weekends and holidays. We were headed for Berri in South Australia next, so packed up on Friday morning and set off.