Cape York - To The Tip and Back - Loyalty Beach, Punsand Bay and Seisia

Loyalty Beach

10 – 12 July 2016

We drove along the Northern Bypass Road – by far the worst so far. There were some long sections of severe corrugations after a fairly good dirt section and even a long bitumen section. For a good part of the way it was again better to drive in the gutter. We arrived at the Jardine River ferry crossing and stopped to have a look around before paying our fee ($129 return for car and trailer) and crossing the river. Visitors are reminded that alcohol restrictions apply in Northern Peninsular Area lands - which covers most of the area north of the Jardine River.

Waiting for the Jardine River Ferry.

Once across we headed for Bamaga still not sure where we wanted to stay. We drove in to Seisia and had a bit of a look around and picked up some supplies at the supermarket then continued on the short distance to Loyalty Beach. This campground is in a bush like setting and is very spread out. We picked a spot with ocean views, but back from the beach.

Another encounter with a Palm Cockatoo.

We had a visit from our friends and discussed our plans to drive up to “The Tip” and call into Punsand Bay for a look. In the morning we set off but didn’t get very far. The corrugations were dreadful and we decided that, as we were going to stay at Punsand Bay anyway, we would save the drive for the next day.

We headed back into Bamaga and then over to Seisia jetty. There were lots of people fishing there and we did hear some success stories.

Taken from the Jetty.

In the morning we packed up and picked up more supplies (including fresh bread from the bakery in Bamaga) ready for the next few days. We had booked for two nights at Punsand Bay. We asked at the caravan park before we left about a road the “crazy woman” (my GPS) was suggesting we take and were told we must ignore her advice. Apparently all GPSs suggest the road that takes you through a swamp where even locals have been bogged! Lucky we asked.

Punsand Bay

12 – 15 July 2016

We took the back road (but not the one through the swamp) from Loyalty Beach which cut off much of the rough main road. It was little more than a track in parts but a nice drive until we rejoined the main road, which was rough in many parts.  We stopped at the Croc Tent which sells souvenirs and provides local maps. They had a huge selection of t-shirts – many of which we saw being worn in the camp ground over the next few days.

The campground at Punsand Bay is very big and sites there are allocated. We had a spacious site, with shade, back from the beach. There is a bar and restaurant that does wood fired pizzas every night and offers an a-la-carte menu some nights. We enjoyed pizza with our travelling friends Ruth and Boyd. The big attraction at the campground, apart from the wood fired pizzas, is the swimming pool. You can’t swim in the creeks or ocean because of the crocodiles so a pool is a well-used asset.

Civilization in the form of good coffee, drinks and pizza at the Corrugation Bar.

In the morning we set off for “The Tip”. The drive was beautiful, through some pristine rainforest and took about 45 minutes from the campground. Again there is an alternative route that takes you through swamp land – or deep soft sand – depending on the time of year.

The road to the tip through beautiful rainforest.

When we arrived at The Tip there was a tour bus there, as well as lots of other vehicles. We set off on the walk over rocks to the most northerly point on the Australian mainland. We timed it right – when we reached the sign signifying we had arrived, there was only one other couple there. We took each other’s photos and had some time taking some other photos. Amazingly there was mobile reception so we posted photos on social media and sent some to friends. As we set off back down the track there were heaps of people on their way out. Good timing on our part for once. We spent a bit of time on the beach before heading back to Punsand Bay. There are no facilities at The Tip - no toilets or picnic tables, or anything to encourage visitors to stay and enjoy the surroundings.

Interesting rock formations at the very tip of Australia.

We made it!

The beach at the beginning of the walking track to the tip.

There are some very nice views to be had from the track.

The car was a mess when we got back.

Our final day at Punsand Bay was spent relaxing. We figured we deserved it after all the driving on rough roads. We decided we would go back to Seisia for one night before tackling the road south again.

Drinks on the beach with Ruth and Boyd, very pleasant.

Just in front of where we were having drinks, charter flights come and go.

The beach at Punsand Bay.

 The non driving day was a good choice from a birding point of view. The park is crowded for most of the day but there is a quiet time, mid morning when most of the campers have either packed up and moved on or gone off to explore. I took the camera and had a walk around getting shots of Tawny-breasted and Graceful Honeyeater, Brush Turkey, Varied Triller and Bar-shouldered Dove. Mick.

Graceful Honeyeater.

Tawny-breasted Honeyeater.

Bar-shouldered Dove.

Varied Triller.

Brush Turkey

Seisia

15 – 16 July 2016

Because we didn’t have far to go, we didn’t rush our packing up, but instead made a leisurely morning of it. We were pleasantly surprised to find, when we reached the turn back onto the main (Pajinka) road at the Croc Tent, that the road back to Bamaga had been graded. Yay! That made the trip even quicker.

We made our way to Seisia and checked into the caravan park, again right on the beach. Because we were early we were able to secure a beach front hut. There are a number of these along the beachfront. There are really just a corrugated iron roof over a sink and bench, with some power points and a small fence around, but it was a really nice way to say goodbye to this part of the country. The floor is sand so it felt really tropical.

The view from our 'beach hut'. It was Friday afternoon.

We headed back into Bamaga to stock up again – fuel, groceries and alcohol. The pub bottle shop doesn’t open until noon. Because it is so remote everything is very expensive, but the variety is good. We stopped on the way back to the campground to look for Palm Cockatoos as Mick had been told about a possible spot – but they weren’t there. Instead he found them right where we were camped. That was a nice surprise.

Feeding on beach almonds.

My best shot of the local Palm Cockatoos.

Of course it rained in the evening, so we grabbed a burger from the take-away at the caravan park and enjoyed a couple of Friday drinks with a view. The huts are shared facilities and we were lucky that our neighbours were quiet types. As is common in many communities, horses and dogs roamed freely, including through the park. We were woken in the night by the sound of a horse (or was it horses) foraging in the neighbours food. There were signs warning not to leave food out.

Sunrise at Seisa.

In the morning we rose early for the long drive south, with Moreton Telegraph Station as our proposed destination.