Wednesday 28 October 2015

Cattai, Capertee and Mudgee


Cattai National Park

21 – 22 October 2015

After a thorough induction into its use, we picked up our brand new camper trailer and headed up the Windsor Road. I have never towed before so was very nervous about that, not to mention the Sydney traffic. We successfully negotiated our way to Windsor and then along the Wiseman’s Ferry Road to the Cattai National Park. We discovered a beautiful spot, but one that we imagine would be very popular on weekends and school holidays.  There are flush toilets and hot showers, and it’s not really far from the city, so the $23 per night, plus $8 per day park entry fee is probably justified. There was also bulk rubbish bins provided so we didn’t have to carry our scraps out with us.

We picked a spot beside the creek and set up the camper. We managed to get it set up in what was a reasonable time for beginners and only had to refer to the instructions a couple of times. Rain was forecast, and the prediction was accurate. We found the new accommodation to be more than adequate in the rain that fell in the evening and during the night.

View from our trailer.
Our camp spot was right on the river - very peaceful except for the occasional water skier!
Our first night in the camper trailer
More intermittent showers persisted while we packed up – again a reasonably smooth process for newbies. We were on the road again just before 10am, headed for Capertee National Park.


Capertee National Park

22 – 24 October 2015

We drove back through Windsor, then on to Richmond and up the Bells Line of Road (will have to check how it got its name – it has always fascinated me). We stopped for coffee at Bilpin, where there are a number of roadside cafes and shops selling local apples and apple products. We probably would have had room, but had not yet rearranged all our gear properly into the camper trailer, so didn’t buy any local produce.

Mick had read about a bird spot so we drove down the road at Pierce’s Pass to have a look for the Rockwarbler. The road was challenging but the picnic spot was nice, and Mick was rewarded with a Pilotbird sighting, but no great photos.

The beauty and variety of flowering plants around the picnic area could not be ignored.

The Rockwarbler is the only bird endemic to NSW and has a very limited range. It is only found around sandstone outcrops... at least that's what I've read.  The last time we came through its range, an east coast low prevented us from chasing them so this time I'm hoping to tick one off and maybe get a good pic.

This is a top spot for lunch or a cuppa. No Rockwarbler for me despite it looking like the right habitat. There was lots of other interesting stuff to look at like wild flowers and sandstone outcrops. There were a few birds about such as the ubiquitous Eastern yellow robin and Grey fantail as well as Golden whistlers, New Holland honeyeater, Eastern spinebill and Pilotbirds. There were some bird calls I couldn't recognise, which was quite frustrating as we couldn't stay long enough to sort them out. Mick.



Waratah
Isopogon


New Holland honeyeater
Eastern spinebill
We drove through Lithgow where we stopped at the local Bunnings (hardware store) for a couple of things we needed, then on towards Mudgee. Turning off the Castlereagh Highway we drove through Capertee village and then turned off towards the national park. Some of the road was sealed, and some was gravel, and part of it was extremely rough – even though described as suitable for 2WD vehicles, except when flooded. I certainly wouldn’t have wanted to do it is a sedan – I think high clearance is a must.

We were welcomed to the camping area by a wet Welcome Swallow.
You cannot enter the park without a booking. I had called the Mudgee National Parks office a few days earlier, paid our fees ($6 per person per night) and was given the gate access code.  We were a little surprised to find the camp ground is really just a paddock, with a single long drop toilet, not in the bush as we had expected. It was, however, very peaceful and quite beautiful. There were kangaroos in the top paddock, and lots of wombat holes.


Wombat hole
Wallaroo
We had rain, on and off for most of our journey, and had to wait for a break to set up the camp, which we managed with only one look at the instructions this time. Think we are getting the hang of it! A cold night was predicted so we dug out the warmies and settled in for a quiet evening with only the stars (and maybe wombats) for company.


Capertee Valley Lookout
Capertee National Park campground - we had it all to ourselves
We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and jumped in the car to head towards a walk that promised lots of birds. We found the lookout which meant we had gone too far! The view over that valley was beautiful so we were glad we had come this way. We backtracked and found the Ullumbra Track which wound its way beside the creek. We had missed it because the National Parks information brochure promised a permanent water course – which was dry as a bone! It was a nice kilometre or so walk along the creek bank with lots of birds around, as promised. After our walk we made our way back to camp for a cuppa and lunch. After an afternoon rest we jumped in the car and drove towards the park gate in search of more promised birds. Not much luck again!

Speckled warbler
Satin flycatcher
Buff-rumped thornbill
Mick met one of the locals - a red bellied black snake
The weather was good so we decided on camp oven veggies and left over rissoles for dinner. It was nice to be able to sit around a campfire – in the fire pit provided of course. Another cold night but we were snug in the camper.

We packed up after breakfast and left Capertee National Park – after a couple of stops looking for birds of course. National Parks had emailed a number of useful documents when we booked, one of which Mick found very interesting – Capertee Valley Bird Trails. We headed out in search of a number of spots promising various sightings. We managed to miss some, but found a some really nice spots, including a community camp ground at Glen Davis (a bit crowded for us) and the beautiful Coorongooba Camp Ground in Wollemi National Park. With spectacular views of the canyon, we filed that one away for future reference.

Diamond firetail
On to Mudgee and a caravan park for a couple of nights.


Mudgee

24 – 28 October 2015

We found a nice spot in a caravan park just out of town, late in the afternoon and settled in for the night. In the morning we did our housekeeping – washing, shopping and rearranging things.

A female Red-rumped parrot by her nest hollow.
Musk lorikeets are common in the gum trees around the park. These ones are feeding on lerps.
m
We made the decision to stay an extra couple of days as we had some business to do for which we needed to be available by phone, and also because there are a number of day trips to local birding spots – pointed out by the very helpful volunteer (and local birder) at the Visitor Information Centre. Mudgee is a small country town – but is busy on a Sunday with cafes, wineries and restaurants doing a roaring trade.

We ventured out to Putta Bucca Wetland for a look - very hot and so many flies! This used to be the part of the sewerage treatment plant and is now a wetland with a walking tracks and bird hides. Mick spent a good bit of time trying to get the reed warbler - but it wouldn't sit still for long.

Great place, we saw Azure kingfisher, Dusky woodswallow, Eastern Rosella, Black-winged stilt, Tree martins and more!

I did manage a Reed warbler shot, there are so many around here and they are presently very active and vocal.
Later in the afternoon, we were treated to an afternoon storm.

On Monday morning we headed out to visit Gulgong – a heritage town founded on gold. It’s less than ½ hour drive from Mudgee through rolling hills and wine country. We arrived and made our way to one of the many cafes for morning tea. This tiny town has preserved much of its history in its lovely old buildings. Locals are friendly and happy to have a chat about their town. There is a small museum but we decided to save that till next time.

Wonderful old buildings have survived since the gold rush and are being slowly restored by the community.
Fancy oods were a thing back then apparently.
It was a nice morning out.
We drove back to Mudgee along the “tourist route” – Henry Lawson Way. Again, rolling hills and wineries. As we arrived back at camp, we noticed another black sky in the near distance. A check of the BoM weather radar revealed another storm, bigger and nastier than the one the previous day, and a severe thunderstorm warning to go with it – large hailstones, heavy rainfall and damaging winds! We didn’t have time to do much preparation, so we just had to sit in the camper and wait it out. Fortunately the hail didn’t eventuate and the wind gave a few strong gusts, but caused no damage. The storm didn’t last long, and it did cool things down a bit.

More wind and some rain overnight, and a very cloudy sky in the morning. We braved the cold and wind and headed off to Munghorn Gap Reserve, hoping to spot some more birds. The sky cleared a little and we ventured out along a short walk. It's a nice picnic spot with a pit toilet, picnic tables and BBQs. It would have been nice to spend some time there if the weather had been better - and only 1/2 hour drive from Mudgee.

Once back in town we had a coffee at the brewery (true!) and then a walk along the river. We discovered that the elusive Reed warbler lives there too so of course Mick was happy to return after lunch.

Usually hard to see, the Reed warblers weren't shy at this location.
 Dusky moorhen
It's a shame the weather has been so variable - hot, cold, sunny, windy and rainy. There are lots of nice spots around here that would have been worth a visit, but not great in the rain.

Saturday 17 October 2015

Townsville to Sydney


Cape Hillsborough

7 - 8 October 2015

After several months at home meeting commitments to help organise a conference, we are finally back on the road, bound for Tasmania. This time we are heading down the coast (as we had intended to do in February before Cyclone Marcia thwarted our plans.)

We are picking up a new camper trailer in Sydney so have decided not to camp on the way. We will stay in cabins, pubs and motels along the way. Tonight’s stop is an old favourite, Cape Hillsborough.  We have a beachfront hut - right on the beach as you would expect. Our journey from home in Townsville was very familiar – op shops and fuel in Ayr (where diesel is 11cents a litre cheaper than in Townsville) then lunch at the Metropole Hotel in Proserpine.

On to Cape Hillsborough and a pleasant night on the beach - except for the incessant wind. We ventured out for a walk but the wind made it decidedly unpleasant – glad we weren’t camping.
 
This place is famous for its beach-going roos.
Volcanic rock looking like a site-specific wave sculpture.

A fairly early departure and a stop to walk along the Diversity Boardwalk. There weren’t many birds about, but it was a beautiful walk. There’s lots of interpretive signage to help visitors understand the significance of the land on which they walk.


A lace monitor was sunning itself on the track and was reluctant to move as we approached.
Blue Tiger. These were fluttering all through the bush as we walked.


Rockhampton

8 - 9  October 2015

After the lovely walk on the Diversity Boardwalk at Cape Hillsborough we headed back to the highway at Yakapari (yes it’s a real place), on through Mackay and then a stop in Sarina. The visitor information centre provides free, do it yourself, coffee and tea – and a lovely verandah to allow you to sit a while.

On the road again and lunch at Clairview – another beautiful beachfront, but the wind persisted so we didn’t linger long. The little park at the community centre is perfect for a lunch stop, and as a bonus the centre was open and selling the best ever jam drops. Wish we’d bought more!

On to Rockhampton and overnight at a caravan park just out of town. Nice enough but very noisy with the trains and trucks going right past all through the night.

Up very early to venture out along the Port Alma Road in search of the yellow chat. A local birder had provided Mick with very clear direction about where they could be found, but they weren’t there. Mick thinks they were sheltering from the wind. Looks like we’ll have to come this way again some time.



Nanango

9 - 10 October 2015

Morning tea at Bororen and a picnic lunch at Gin Gin, both with great parking for those towing. We turned off the Bruce Highway at Booyal and travelled the back road to the Isis Highway, then on to Biggenden and Ban Ban Springs, where we turned on to the Burnett Highway bound for Goomeri. We stopped at the visitor information centre and decided to keep going on to Nanango. Another stop at the visitor information centre and we found a quiet motel for the night.


Gilston / Nerang


10 - 11 October 2015

Saturday is market day! We left Nanango and made our way along the D’Aguilar Highway to Yarraman where we stumbled upon our first market for the day. From there it was on to Moore and a community op shop, then along the Brisbane Valley Highway to Toogoolawah and more markets, and finally lunch time in Esk – where there were more markets. From Esk we made our way towards the big city and turned off to the Gold Coast Hinterland.

Because this was a short day’s drive we drove up to Tamborine Mountain and went for a short walk at Witches Falls. We didn’t see any witches, but it was a beautiful walk, but with lots of steps.

From there we made our way down the mountain towards Nerang and our stop at a B&B for the night.

Common Bronzewing
The hosts have bird feeders out on the deck where breakfast is served. Crepes (the host is a French chef) and home-made jams, with the birds for company was a lovely way to start the day.

Galah.
Little Corella
Sulphur-crested Cockatoo
A Laughing Kookaburra catching some sun.


O'Reilly's ( Lamington National Park)

11 - 13 October 2015

Again, a short drive so we went back up to Tamborine – and made our first stop the markets. We headed over to another walk – but had to do battle with some serious traffic on the way. Seems everyone was out for a Sunday drive up the mountain.

Showground markets at Tamborine

Tamborine National Park – MacDonald Section provided us with a very pleasant and easy 1.5 km walk, away from the crowds. From there we found a nice park for a picnic lunch on the way back down the mountain to Canungra.

From Canungra it’s only 35 km to O’Reilly’s, but what a drive. It took nearly an hour – hairpin bends, one way sections, blind corners, give ways and steep climbs. You really do need to concentrate, but it is so worth the effort when you arrive at this most beautiful spot.

We checked into our room - with great views over the valley. Afternoon tea is served in the dining room, so of course we had to partake. We also ventured out onto the Booyang Walk and the Treetop walk. This takes you up into the canopy along an elevated suspended boardwalk - a bit scary when people walk quickly along making it swing.

The view from our balcony.
Eastern Whipbird
Male Regent Bowerbird
Satin Bowerbird at his bower.
Female or young male satin bowerbird.
Our package included breakfast, morning tea and afternoon tea. We opted for a casual dinner in the Rainforest Bar, where I was able to sample to local wine - a very nice Semillon Sauvignon Blanc from the O'Reilly's Vineyard.

Up early for the bird walk - but with a very large group this time. The mainly American tour group were absolutely fascinated by the Aussie birds, but it made for a very different walk. We peeled off after inspecting the brush turkey's mound, and went in for the best breakfast buffet ever. It's hard not to eat too much.

During the day we walked, ate lunch at the cafe, took lots of photos and generally enjoyed a beautiful day. Later in the afternoon we noticed storm clouds brewing in the distance and saw lightning and heard thunder. A check of the BoM (Bureau of Meteorology) weather radar revealed one of SE Qld's severe thunderstorms was headed our way. It was quite beautiful to see the lightning lighting up the sky. The worst occurred while we were up at the Rainforest Bar having another casual dinner. Most visitors sat glued to the spectacle. Fortunately the storm bypassed us and we only received a little rain up on the mountain.

We didn't get up for the early morning bird walk on Tuesday morning, opting instead to head down for breakfast early. We were rewarded with one of the window seats. During breakfast bird feeders are topped up and the local inhabitants gather round for a free feed. Quite a sight while having breakfast.

We fitted in another walk through the treetops before venturing back down the mountain and towards New South Wales.

Rose robin seen on the treetops walk.


Lennox Head

13 - 14 October 2015

We drove into New South Wales through the beautiful Numimbah Valley and via Murwillumbah. For us, this is much better than going through the Gold Coast - although we know many would disagree. We headed into Lennox Head and found a cabin in the caravan park across the road from the beach and adjacent to the lake - quite a nice spot. Our purpose for visiting was to catch up with a birdwatching friend we met on an earlier trip.

We arranged to visit Jo for morning tea and took the short drive out to Flat Rock at her suggestion. Mick was rewarded with a mixture of seabirds and waders. Despite the almost high tide he was able to get close enough for some photos.

Brahminy Kite with a fish stolen from a tern.
Red-necked stints land again after being spooked by the raiding kite.
It's exhausting migrating from the Siberian tundra and then being chased around by kites.
Lesser crested Terns
A Sanderling roosting with Red necked Stints.
Common Tern non breeding plumage
Little Terns
Ruddy Turnstone
Surfer at Flat Rock
This was a great little birding stop and a place I'd love to visit again for a longer stay. Thanks Jo for pointing it out! In my short photo sessions at Flat Rock I was able to see three new birds. They were not too flighty so I was able to get nice and close to some. Mick.

After morning tea with Jo we headed back to Flat Rock for some more photos, then on down the road for lunch at a park by the river in Ballina.

Golden Plovers and a Curlew Sandpiper at Lake Chickiba near Ballina.


Iluka

14 - 16 October 2015

We drove on to Iluka, once a small fishing village and still a fairly quiet place - at this time of year at least. Just before reaching the town we detoured to the Bundjalung National Park at Iluka Bluff for a look at the beach. We discovered there is a rainforest walk so we added that to the list of things to do.

We found a cabin in a caravan park by the river and settled in for two nights. In the morning we drove to the town end of the rainforest walk. It's only 2.5km and an estimated 1.5 hours each way, if you don't stop to take heaps of photos! We walked about 1.5km before turning around so we would be back in time for lunch.

Fruiting trees were full of figbirds, olive-backed orioles, Lewin's honeyeaters and fruit doves feeding noisily as we walked beneath them. Small yellow fruits plopped on the forest floor around us, dislodged by the foraging birds. Despite their number, any views of the birds were fleeting as the thick, dark foliage and glare conspired to hide them from us. A Rose-crowned Fruit dove flew briefly onto a branch in the open and I was able to get a shot.

Lower down, through the undergrowth and tangled vines, golden whistlers, wonga pigeons, eastern whip birds and brown gerygones could be heard. A rufous fantail hopped around not far from the track and I noticed it had been banded. Mick.

Rose-crowned Fruit dove
We went down to the small harbour and bought the freshest fish and chips we've had in a long time. The Fisherman's Co-op sells a range of seafood and the crumbed flathead was just delicious.

The perfect place to have fish & chips!

A walk out onto a break wall revealed that the banks of the Clarence River are guarded by an army of dragons. Every four or five metres, an Eastern Water-dragon eyed us cautiously from its rocky battlement as we passed. There were some fish and birds to look at also. Mick.
Eastern Water-dragon
Eastern Water-dragon
A Striated heron
Welcome swallows not long out of the nest.

 After lunch we walked for a short way along the river near the caravan park, then drove out to the surf beach for a quick look. We then went back to the harbour and walked along the foreshore walk from the pub to the playground.

On our return, hot and thirsty, we stopped for a refreshing and well-earned beer, with a lovely view. Up early for the long drive to Sydney, although we weren't sure we would get all the way - it's estimated as an 8 hour drive.


Pacific Palms (near Foster)

16 - 17 October 2015

We set off early, headed for Sydney. We hoped to be able to drive all the way, but were realistic enough to know that it probably wouldn't be possible. It was a very foggy morning, but was clear in Iluka by the time we left. A drove through the Clarence river valley, the fog reappeared. We stopped by the river at Ulmarra for photos.

Black duck in the fog.
Clarence River
We stopped for fuel in Grafton then drove on to Nambucca Heads for coffee. We detoured into Port Macquarie for lunch by the beach, then back to the highway to Taree. Just past Taree we left the highway to travel the Lakes Way, having made the decision to stay in the area for the night. We stopped in Forster where accommodation (that suited us) was scarce so we moved on, stopping at each caravan park along the way, only to find most also fully booked. We eventually found our way to Pacific Palms - a sleepy little corner nestled between Wallis Lake and the Pacific Ocean at Elizabeth Beach. A nice spot to spend the last night before hitting the "big smoke".