Hattah-Kulkyne National Park - Lake Mournpall Campground

 27 - 30 March 2022

Leaving Barham, we set the GPS for Hattah-Kulkyne National Park and travelled into Victoria, and through Swan Hill. We stopped for a picnic lunch at Manangatang, then on to the park. We have stayed at Hattah-Kulkyne NP twice before, both times at Lake Hattah but this would be our first time at Lake Mournpall. We had booked three nights and called into the visitor centre to pick up a map, before heading to the campground. 

We went for a good walk around the campground before deciding on the perfect lakeside spot. We found one with lots of afternoon shade, but enough clear space to keep the solar happy. Most campsites have picnic tables, firepits and lake views. There are also a couple of toilet blocks, not far from most sites.  

Mick had been given a tip about a good spot for a bird he was after so we set off late in the afternoon to try to find it. It wasn't hard to find, so Mick would come back in the morning on his own. That meant a very early morning wake-up - well before the sunrise.

Mick set off just as the sun was starting to rise, and spent the best part of the morning chasing birds along the Nowingi and Konardin Tracks. After lunch and a rest, he returned later in the afternoon and again the following morning. He was rewarded with some shots of a new bird.

In the afternoon we went for the short drive to Lake Konardin then returned to camp. We had thought about adding an extra night, but the weather was changing from warm and sunny with little wind, to windy and cold nights so we decided against it. On our final morning Mick again went out to his now favourite spots before returning mid-morning. We ended up staying on to have lunch before setting off towards Mildura. 

We stopped for some supplies then continued west to Lake Cullulleraine where we would spend the night.

Halls Gap and Narrawong (Portland)

Halls Gap

7 - 9 December 2015

We left Little Desert and headed for The Grampians. Again, this is a place we had visited before - in 1991! We felt it was time to go back. We drove through Horsham and then took the windy road to Halls Gap. You can go via Stawell if you prefer, and it is recommended if you are towing a caravan, but the off-road camper trailer handled it well.

We stopped for a picnic lunch near Zumstein's and arrived at Halls Gap in the early afternoon. We settled into the caravan park - there are several to choose from - and drove the short distance into town to the visitor centre. We picked up a map but didn't stay to ask questions - the place was packed. We needed a couple of things for dinner so called into the grocery store. I had read reviews that suggested the fresh produce was sadly lacking in variety and quality, and we found this to be true on the day we were there. Such a shame.

Halls Gap must have one of the best main street views of anywhere. It is quite spectacular and is a very popular spot for tourists - unfortunately we found the tourist information to be a little like the veges - quite disappointing. We went to the National Parks office to ask about walks and wetlands, and were told about the walk behind the centre, but that there were no wetlands around. Imagine our surprise when we walked outside and saw the sign for the wetland walk - right behind the National Parks centre! Admittedly there wasn't much water but it was still a nice easy walk.

I was hoping to get some nice shots of the beautiful little Gang-gang cockatoo. The Grampians seems to be a very good place to find them. Occasionally I could hear the creaky calls of birds flying by but they would just keep going. Eventually I spotted a pair, high up in some acacias at the botanic gardens. The feeding male stayed partly hidden until I finally gave up on him. Mick.

Female Gang-gang cockatoo.

Male Gang-gang cockatoo. Not great shots but the best I could do under the circumstances.

Grey currawong.

At the suggestion of caravan park staff we drove over to Stawell to do some shopping and found  a good variety of nice fresh vegetables in the supermarket there. We also had a nice lunch in the bakery cafe. Back at Halls Gap we went to the Visitor Information Centre again and asked about walks - easy, no stairs and flat if possible, to accommodate Mick's problem knee. Again we were not offered a map showing the walks, but were told the Venus Pool walk which starts just across the road would meet our needs. I suspect the young lady has never actually been on the walk. It was quite beautiful, and Mick did manage the 2.2km loop, but it did have lots of stairs, some uneven ground and climbs. 

Venus Pools.

While we were in Halls Gap we also visited the local furniture maker. We were shown around his workshop and treated to the inside story of many of the pieces. We just might have to consider a purchase when we get home and measure up the space we have which is just waiting for something beautiful.

We left Halls Gap and travelled south through the park, enjoying more fabulous views, and on to Dunkeld and Hamilton. We spotted an op-shop on the highway at Hamilton, so stopped for a look. We then discovered that the main street was just around the corner, so we walked to a coffee shop, and bought some beautiful fresh bread at the bakery. 

Back on the road and a picnic lunch in Heyward, where we realised we had stopped on our visit earlier in the year, then on to Portland.

Narrawong (Portland)

9 - 11 December 2015

We called into the visitor centre as soon as we arrived, for information about a wetland walk and a gannet colony which Mick had read about. We also picked up some information about caravan parks. We drove out to Point Danger where the gannets can be seen. Unfortunately you can't get very close so Mick had to be satisfied with some shots from the viewing platform and from behind the fence. Then we drove to the wetland walk, but had to park outside someone's house as there is no suitable parking for this feature. Fawthrop Lagoon promised a bird hide, but we couldn't find it. We decided that we would find somewhere to stay and visit again in the morning.

When this offshore colony of Australasian gannets grew too large, some birds started to nest on the adjacent Point Danger.

Australasian gannet.

It is very disappointing that the colony is only able to be observed from a great distance. I'm sure it would be possible to protect the birds and still allow closer viewing. If you want a closer photo of a gannet you have to hope one flies past. Mick.

A great place for wind farms.

We chose the caravan park at Narrawong, about 10 minutes from Portland, and it was a good choice. The park is nestled between the ocean and creek, and is well set up, and quite large. Shortly after arriving we were alerted to a koala in a tree, not far from our spot.

Caravan park Koala.

In the morning we headed back to Fawthrop Lagoon and went for a walk part way around. It's a nice spot, but we still didn't find the promised bird hide. There are board walks and well defined paths. We also revisited the gannets before heading back into town for lunch and a look at the shops. It was a good day out.

The ubiquitous Chestnut teal

Overnight we had rain - which is not a problem except we were getting close to Melbourne, and our departure for Tasmania so we definitely didn't want to have wet canvas for our final (for a while) pack up. We had one more night so carefully considered our next overnight spot. The rain held off while we packed up and started again just as we finished. We checked the weather forecast and it looked like it would not be raining in Ballarat so we decided that might be a good place to spend the next night.

Little Desert - near Nhill

Little Desert 

4 - 7 December 2015

We have visited Little Desert Lodge twice since September last year and were keen to return. The forecast heatwave over the weekend was perfect timing for us - we could stay in a room at the lodge rather than camp, and go out walking early in the morning and late in the afternoon. The lodge has various levels of accommodation including ensuite rooms, bunk house and camping. Ensuite room guests have access to a small kitchen (microwave, toaster, jug) and a lounge area with TV.

We arrived around lunch time with the temperature already over 30 degrees, so we retreated to the air conditioned comfort until it started to cool a little later in the day. Mick spent a couple of hours down at the bird hide, before returning home for dinner.

In the morning we both headed down to the hide early and stayed until morning tea time, when it was starting to get a bit hotter. The very small hide is positioned right beside a water source so there were heaps of birds visiting.

Diamond firetail. I never tire of seeing these beautiful finches.

New Holland is a very common honeyeater in this area.

It's taken many attempts to get a decent shot of the Shy heathwren.

White-eared honeyeater are in good numbers at the hide.

Both Christie and Whimpey's pond reflecting.

Sunset over Little Desert.

Dusky woodswallow in for a drink.

Shy heathwren again on day two!

Striated Pardalote.

Tawny-crowned honeyeater.

White-plumed honeyeater.

I tried to spend as much time as possible in the hide again this visit but the extreme heat meant that this was only possible early and late in the day and late in the day it is only possible to drink beer. The light is much more even and better for photography in the morning anyway. Watching the local birds come in to drink and bathe is a wonderful entertainment and it's hard to leave, not knowing what may visit next. Will it be a Purple-gaped honeyeater?... no as it turns out... worse luck! Maybe next time! Mick.

Male Hooded Robin.

Female Hooded Robin.

Juvenile Diamond Firetail.

In late spring and early summer its common to see lots of juvenile birds around. This has certainly been the case for us on this trip. It is also common for the successful parents to look a little bedraggled, like the Hooded Robins pictured above. Finding a mate, building a nest, defending a territory and catching food for fast growing nestlings all takes a toll on the dedicated parents. Mick.

Flat out like a lizard drinking. This Stumpy-tailed lizard drank long and slow on this very hot day.

Because of the oppressive heat (above 35 degrees) we didn't do as much walking as we might have. We did go down to Whimpey's Waterhole at sunset and to Big M's Pond on Sunday afternoon. Mick spent time each morning at the hide, even getting up at sunrise on our final day. Little Desert Lodge has become a favourite spot - we just hope our next visit will be in more mild weather conditions!

We said our goodbyes and headed off to the south, through the part of the National Park that had been burnt out last year, and through the back roads to Horsham, and on to Halls Gap in the Grampians.

Croajingalong National Park

13 – 14 April 2015

Mick was keen to spend a night in the Lakes Entrance area and we chose Croajingalong NP. On the recommendation of the staff at the visitor information centre in Lakes Entrance, we chose MuellerRiver. The first part of the road from Cann River is sealed, and the unsealed section in the national park is reasonably well maintained (compared to some) but it was slow going and quite narrow in some parts.

Eastern Whipbird was a surprise early morning visitor .

Little Wattlebirds go for gold in the early morning light.

Coast Banksia (Banksia integrifolia)

Our tent was only two metres from the calm water of  Mueller Inlet.

There are only 8 sites at this campground and two long drop toilets. Tank water is available for hand washing but there are no other facilities – but the location is beautiful. The 4 drive in campsites are all a good size and along the edge of the river with views out beyond the mouth of the river to the waves crashing onto the beach beyond. It’s quite disconcerting to be camped on a river and hearing crashing waves. If we hadn't had a commitment in Sydney on Wednesday night we might have stayed longer than one night.

I'm happy with this close encounter with a Brown Thornbill but I missed a great shot of an Eastern Whipbird. Mick.

There were lots of birds around the camp ground so Mick spent some quality time with the camera before we finally left mid-morning, heading towards Nowra.

Blanket Bay - Great Otway National Park

12 - 13 March 2015

We continued along the Great Ocean Road with a view to camping in one of the many National Park campsites along the way. Because of the online booking system introduced by Parks Victoria in 2014, it is necessary to book your campsite (the actual number site - not just the park) online, which is quite difficult when you haven't actually seen the campground so we decided to drive in and have a look around then go ahead and book once we had found something we liked the look of, and which suited our needs.

One of the many stops on the G.O.R.

The first site we visited was Johanna Beach, a lovely spot where we enjoyed a picnic lunch. We drove on to the campsite which is behind the sand dunes. The campsites were very small and side by side so there would be little privacy of there were lots of people there so we crossed that one off the list and moved on. 

We were headed to Aire River because some reviews suggested this to be a lovely spot, but without detailed maps, and no signs from the main road, we missed that one. We continued on and realised we had also missed the turn to Cape Otway. As there was no mobile phone reception we pressed on to Apollo Bay and the Visitor Information Centre. We were assured that Blanket Bay is one of the most popular spots so took the risk and booked site number 12 based on the information available on the Parks Victoria website.

It was great to see this Echidna hunting around for ants in the campground.

We headed back along the Great Ocean Road, and took the Cape Otway turn-off. As we drove along this road we noticed fellow travellers stopped on the side of road. looking up, with cameras in hand. There is a large koala population and they can be seen easily in trees on the road side. Of course, we stopped for some photos too.

Koala. Actually taken on the way out.

As we headed in to Blanket Bay we noticed signs saying "camp ground full". We weren't sure whether this was current, or left over from the recent long weekend, but we were glad we had already booked. Our spot was level, and not far from the toilets - pit toilets, but well maintained. We were able to position the car in such as way as to allow us to use the awning too.

There were lots of birds around so Mick was happy. We walked on the beach and around the campsite and agreed it is a beautiful spot - shared with resident Echidna and wallabies (and possibly koalas although we didn't spot any at the campground.

Olive Whistler

The elusive Rufous Bristlebird.

This is a wonderful birding spot with, no doubt, many more birds than I was able to see in our short stay. Great views of an Olive Whistler were a pleasant surprise as we walked around the campground. Later we caught fleeting glimpses of the very shy Rufous Bristlebird. Eastern Yellow Robins and Crimson Rosellas were never far away and Yellow-faced and White-eared Honeyeaters were plentiful. The Bristlebird was the highlight for me though as it in not an easy bird to see or photograph, not that the photograph is great. Mick.

After a relaxing night we packed up for the next leg of the journey - the one we weren't really looking forward to - into Melbourne.

Discovery Bay Coastal Park - Near Portland, Victoria

11 - 12 March 2015

 

We drove south from Little Desert and saw the result of a bushfire not long ago - such a sight. We went through a number of small towns before arriving in Portland. As usual, we stopped at the visitor information centre. We had thought to stay at the Discovery Bay Coastal Park and wanted to get some more information. We were shown a "mud map" of the campground at Lake Monibeong and settled on site number 7. The next challenge was to get online to book the site. We were told there is a surcharge if you book over the phone so we didn't take the chance. Site booked - at a whopping $35.90 for one night - we headed towards Nelson and easily found the turnoff.

The road in is about 10km from the Nelson-Portland Road, and is listed on Parks Victoria website as 4WD only, so we put the car into 4WD for the first time and drove along the sandy track, but it wasn't really necessary. The campsite we had chosen was very well protected from the wind, and quite close to the lake, but we never did find the beach.

White-browed Scrubwren

Silvereye

For me, this was a disappointing place as far as birding goes. The only notable encounter was a distant view of Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos near the turn off. This is not to say that there aren't birds around... I didn't try very hard really.  

We were greeted by a welcoming committee of Superb Fairy-wrens as we set up camp. These are endearing little birds and quite common down this way. They seemed unconcerned by our presence and hopped around under chairs and tables, ignoring us completely.

Also around the camp but keeping their distance were Red Wattlebirds. Small flocks of Silvereyes darted from one dense shrub to the next, rarely visible but always noted by their lilting, squeaky calls. White-browed Scrubwrens were also common around the camp and were attracted by the dead bugs all over the front of our car. Mick.


We decided to put up the awning as it was quite warm when we arrived. We went for a walk, but were most surprised to see a number of resident superb wrens hopping around the campsite. It's a beautiful spot, but the camp fee is rather large considering the basic facilities - toilets, and no showers. Compared to Qld and NSW National Parks,this seems to be a bit overpriced. I notice there are many negative comments being posted online about the charges.

Our camp amongst the heath.

We were woken during the night by the sound of rain, and fortunately the tent is leak-proof (so far). We had to take things slowly in the morning to allow the tent and awning to dry out as much as possible, so we left at about 10am to start our journey along the Great Ocean Road.

Echuca

8 - 9 March 2015

We drove on to Yarrawonga and had lunch by Lake Mulwala - a very popular spot - then headed for our next destination, Barmah National Park, right on the Murray River border. Unfortunately it is not well signposted, and seems to go by a number of different names,  and we had to use our instincts to get us there. On arrival in the park, there was no obvious park information, and although we knew you could camp there, there was no information available (that we could see). 

We drove down to a camping area and had a look around, but decided not to stay. The area was huge and quite crowded - a legacy of the long weekend - and was serviced by only two long drop toilets, without toilet paper or water. I guess you get what you pay for. With the number of people, and noisy water craft there was little chance of any birdwatching so we decided to drive on through the park to the next town. What a silly thing to do! The crazy woman (my GPS) indicated this would take 2 hours, but we pressed on regardless. After a while of seemingly getting nowhere, we stopped and asked a chap at another (smaller) camping spot. Local, fortunately, he informed us the road through to our alternate destination had been closed, so back to Barmah we went. Perhaps some park signage, or printed maps such as are available at other National Parks, would have been helpful.

We pressed on through Barmah, heading for Moama/Echuca - another big mistake. Echuca - Moama are twin towns right on the Murray River - Moama in NSW and Echuca in Victoria. Because of the long weekend, all the caravan parks were full. We tried a couple of motels and eventually a very obliging lady at one called the local booking service and found us a room in Echuca. She even phoned through to the motel for us to secure the room. By this time we were exhausted and really appreciated the service.

The Settlement Motor Inn turned out to be clean and comfortable, if a little noisy. Right next door is a very well maintained laundromat so I took advantage and did a load of washing before making a late start on Monday morning, headed for a return visit to Little Desert Nature Lodge, near Nhill.

Chiltern

7 - 8 March 2015

Our next stop was a birdwatching spot, so we had a definite plan when we left Khancoban. We followed the Murray Valley Highway through to Tallangatta where we stopped for coffee and cake (delicious) at the local bakery, and some supplies. We also drove down to the lake - which is quite low and little more than a few ponds. Tallangata is just off the highway and worth the 1km drive in for a break.

From there we drove on to Wodonga and were directed to a lovely park for lunch. Belvoir Park is on a lake with a walking track that looks like it goes all the way around. There are picnic tables, BBQs and toilets. Seating and picnic areas are provided all along the path. There is also an enclosed a dog "off leash" area away from the main picnic park.

Ducks and geese roam the area and despite the signs prohibiting feeding the birds many families were doing just that - and then trying to chase them away when they crowded for more.

After fueling up, we drove down the Hume Freeway to Chiltern - a small town, founded on mining. The Chiltern - Mt Pilot National Park is a well known birdwatching spot, so that was our first stop. We spent a short while at Honeyeater Picnic Area which is on Cyanide Road and is beside an old dam. Mick met a fellow bird photographer who provided some local knowledge. Birdos are generally a friendly lot.

We moved on to set up camp at the local caravan park, then to the Visitor Information Centre where we obtained a map to another birding spot - No. 2 Dam. Another nice spot with a walk to a hide. The dam level is quite low so the hide is a long way from the water, but is well maintained.

Crested Shrike-tit

Barking Owl on the No. 2 Dam walk.

We made a fairly early start on Sunday and returned to Honeyeater Picnic Area for the morning. After a picnic morning tea we hit the road again. We had learned that this was a long weekend in Victoria so were not surprised when we saw how crowded it was in Rutherglen - just up the road. We stumbled upon local produce markets that were just starting to pack up, but headed in for a look anyway. There was an excellent array of yummy goodies. Due to lack of space we settled for some home made pasta and sauce, as well as local strawberries which were sweet and juicy (and tasted just like strawberries should).

Little Desert - Victoria

18 - 21 September 2014

We headed off early in the morning and joined the queue to cross the Murray River punt. This operates 24 hours per day and is free – it's the only way to cross the river at Wellington. We headed to Tailem Bend and stopped at the Visitor Information Centre. The friendly folk there provided maps and a friendly chat. Coffee and a pie to warm us up then on the road (Dukes Highway) again. We drove through a number of small towns, and stopped to visit some op shops. We stopped for lunch (and op shopping) in Bordertown before crossing the border into Victoria. Groceries at Nhill then we turned off to the Little Desert National Park and our final destination – Little Desert Nature Lodge. The property is adjacent to the national park and has access to a number of the walking tracks. Mick headed off with the camera once we were settled.

Dinner was provided – ready in our fridge to warm up in the microwave in the communal kitchen. There is also a communal lounge room with dining tables, lounges and a TV – and a reverse cycle air conditioner. We settled in to eat dinner, watch TV and keep warm. The air con in our room kept us snuggly warm through the night. We awoke to the local weather report that sounded more like a soccer score – Nhill – 1. Despite the cold, it looked like a beautiful sunny day outside. There were kangaroos grazing on the lawn in this really tranquil setting.

Kangaroos and an Emu were never far away. The cold morning proved too much for this Joey.

 We headed off into the National Park for the “Lodge Loop” walk, and although Mick didn't get many bird photos it was a very pleasant 2.1km stroll. Mostly flat, sandy path with some gentle uphill sections over what we presume are old sand dunes. This part of the country is so different from what we are used to. 

Painted Lady Butterfly

After morning tea and a chat with some of the lodge staff we headed down to the newly erected bird hide in the corner of the property, and while the birding wasn't as good as we had hoped (we were there in the middle of the day) it certainly did show promise. The little artificial pond was bound to attract wildlife at some stage. While we were there we did spot a shingle back lizard wandering past where I was sitting.

Shingleback Lizard at the bird hide

The Lodge in the distance from Whimpy's Pool

We returned to the lodge for lunch, then Mick set off for what turned out to be a marathon effort with the camera. He spent a good few hours back down at the hide and was duly rewarded with some good shots.

Yellow-faced honeyeater

Eastern rosella

A great variety of honeyeaters and other birds came in to drink at the pond through the afternoon. Those responsible for the pond had been very clever and thoughtful, placing some dried branches around the water for birds to perch on.

Spiny-cheeked honeyeater

New Holland Honeyeaters were very common at the hide

White-naped Honeyeater

White-plumed Honeyeater

Male Superb Fairy-wren

We sensed it was very cold again overnight, but remained warm with the aircon on in our room. We headed down to the bird hide early but there were very few birds waiting to be photographed - we could hear them and see them fleetingly, but non stopped long enough. We walked back to the lodge for morning tea. We had been told the location of a Tawny Frogmouth - which sits quietly in a tree just waiting for a keen photographer to come along. We drove in to Nhill to buy some supplies and have a look at the wetland we had spied on our way in. Unfortunately the boardwalk was closed - a big disappointment as it looked like it would have been a really nice walk with the chance of seeing a few birds.

Back to the lodge for lunch and then out on the part of the Nature Walk that we hadn't been on. This took us towards the back of the property and past a pond and the Mallee Fowl Aviary. The aviary is huge so there was little chance of spotting this shy creature. 

Later in the afternoon Mick headed back to the hide on his own and again stayed quite a while hoping to get some good photos. We realised late in the afternoon that we were the only guests - we had the whole place to ourselves so settled in to the comfy lounge to watch some TV without interruption. 

Probably a Southern Brown Bandicoot (I'm no expert) at the hide.

An early start in the morning and back into South Australia to Clare. We tried not to make it our usual leisurely drive because it was so far to go - but we still made a few stops - at Keith for coffee, Murray Bridge for petrol, a toilet stop in Gawler and picnic lunch in Tarlee. We arrived in Clare early afternoon.

The landscape is brightened by vivid fields of Canola but native flora and fauna have suffered