Oasis Roadhouse

6 - 7 October 2025 

We had a quiet night and Lloyd Jones Weir and headed off towards Barcaldine. Foolishly relying on the GPS, we realised we were going the long way (via Winton) so turned back and took the road we wanted to be on - via Aramac and Muttaburra. Going via Winton would have added almost an hour and over 100km to our  travel. It really is a good idea to use multiple sources to determine the best route. We use GoogleMaps, paper maps and the GPS. 

We made it into Aramac where we stopped for a cuppa in the small rest area adjacent to the community camping ground. It was very windy so we were grateful for the sheltered picnic area which doubled as a camp kitchen. We continued on with a brief stop at Muttaburra and then on into Hughenden.

We planned to stay in Hughenden but, because the caravan park doesn't take check-ins before midday, we decided to have lunch down at the lake first. While we were there we decided that we might as well keep going and aim for Oasis Roadhouse.

Our second visit was much better than the first

Last time we stayed at the Oasis we swore we would never do it again but it was the most convenient spot for us to stop given that we would arrive late in the day. This time we took a powered site which put us much closer to the amenities. We'd had a very big day's drive so we had dinner and drinks at the roadhouse. The meal was better than last time too.

We made a fairly early start in the morning heading back towards Atherton.

Lloyd Jones Weir (near Barcaldine)

 5 - 6 October 2025

After a nice weekend in Charleville we headed off once again with an idea of where we might stay, depending on how we were feeling and what we found along the way. Our first stop on the route north was Augathella where we had morning tea in the park. There is a nice free camp (with showers and toilets) but it was way too early in the day to think about stopping.

We continued on along the Landsborough Highway and made our next stop at Tambo, in the park by the rather dry wetlands. It was the Sunday of a long weekend so we were expecting that some campgrounds might be quite busy. We checked out one north of Tambo but it didn't look very appealing so we continued on.

Our next stop was Lloyd Jones Weir south-west of Barcaldine. We were surprised that there weren't many people there when we arrived just after 3:00pm, so we picked a shady spot and set up camp. A few more campers arrived later in the afternoon, but it was by no means busy. It was a very pleasant place to camp for the night and if we'd had more time, and the weather hadn't been so hot, we might have stayed an extra day.

Late afternoon by the weir

We had come up with a bit of a plan which involved an early start which wasn't too diffcult. As is our habit for quick overnighters when the weather is good, we hadn't bothered with the awning, nor had we unhitched the car. We were able to get away before 7:00am,  and hoped to be able to get to Hughenden or even further,

Charleville

 3 - 5 October 2025

After three fabulous days relaxing and birding at Paddabilla it was time to move on. We didn't need to hurry so Mick spent one more morning taking photos before we packed up and headed back into Cunnamulla.

We only had a 2 hour drive from Cunnamulla in to Charleville so had a leisurely lunch in the park before heading north again. We chose a caravan park out of town where we have stayed before and opted for two nights so we could get washing and shopping done. We went for a wander along the Warrego River Walk and also a stroll around town. 

Mick never misses a chance to do some birding

Because of the bush setting, Mick was able to do a bit of birding around the cravan park so we managed to fill in our time very easily. We did need to keep moving though, so after two nights we packed up again and continued our journey north.

Paddabilla Bore (aka Eulo Bore)

 30 September - 3 October 2025

We continued west through Bollon and on to Cunnamulla where we stopped for a picnic in the park. Cunnamulla is always a good place to pull up for a rest and to pick up supplies from the small supermarket. From there we continued west the short distance to Paddabilla Bore (aka Eulo Bore).

We rarely stay in "free camps" without toilets but were prepared to make an exception for this one as it's a great spot for birding. It's also close enough to Eulo to be able to go in to empty our portable chemical toilet.

The weather was very hot so we chose a spot close to the bore with some shade. There weren't many others around and most were birders which always makes for a very pleasant stay. As usual, Mick spent most of the time out birding and chatting to others doing the same. Some were camping while others came in from Cunnamulla or Eulo for a morning or afternoon session.

Relaxing after a busy day relaxing

Despite the heat we enjoyed ourselves so much we decided to stay an extra day. We did take a drive in to Eulo to the dump point and for a very quick walk around the tiny town. We had thought we might spend a night there atthe camprgound behind the pub but decided against it once we saw it. 

While we were at Paddabilla Bore we considered our next move but found the campground we had picked out - one which had bore baths - had already closed for the season. In the end we decided not to detour further west, but to make our way north towards Charleville.

St George

 29 - 30 September 2025

We left Tenterfield and headed along the southern side of the NSW/Qld border, on the Bruxner Highway. We had a friend who, alongside her son, was taking part in the 2025 Postie Bike Challenge from Brisbane to Canberra via the Outback. We knew our route would take in part of theirs so we weren't surprised when we started to see small groups of these small motor bikes. They were generally very courteous and easy to get around. 

We passed quite a few bikes along the way into Goondiwindi where we stopped for lunch. We're not sure if we saw Kathy on the road - it's a bit hard to recognise someone who is kitted out in full safety gear including helmet. It was a really hot day and we felt for the participants, who seemed to be having a great time anyway.

After a lunch stop in the park at Goondiwindi, and a chat to one of the "Postie Bikers" we decided to press on towards St George. We made our way to the caravan park on the Balonne River where we set up with a bit of shade. We enjoyed a stroll along the river and a restful night. It was still school holidays but not at all crowded in western Queensland.

There's a lovely walking track along the river

Before leaving town we fuelled up and called in at the hardware store. We continued west along the Balonne Highway towards Cunnamulla.

Tenterfield

 26 - 29 September 2025

Our stay in Port Macquarie had been fabulous - spending time with friends, and a pelagic boat trip for Mick. The weather had been great too! It was now time to turn north and start heading back towards North Queensland. We wanted to stop in Tenterfield but weren't sure whether we'd get there in one go, or whether we might stop somewhere along way, so we set the GPS for Tenterfield and headed off.

There are a number of ways we could go, but we decided on the Gwydir Highway via Grafton. We drove north on the motorway, back through Coffs Harbour, then turned off towards Grafton. We found a rest area to make a cup of coffee, then continued to Grafton and on through the mountains.

We stopped at Hills Lookout, then continued on to Gibraltar Range Picnic Area where we had lunch. Our next stop was Raspberry Lookout which had fabulous views over the Gibraltar Range and beyond. We drove in to Washpool National Park to have a look at the campground but were put off when we saw people with unrestrained dogs in the picnic area. Dogs are not permitted and  this is one of the reasons we like camping in National Parks so much. Once we reached the top of the range we decided that we could easily get to Tenterfield so stopped in Deepwater and called ahead as we knew we would be arriving quite late.

Quite a view from Raspberry Lookout

We made it into Tenterfield late in the day and settled in to the caravan park, only to discover that our power lead was not working. It was bad timing as we had just spent two nights with a licenced electrician who might have been able to fix it for us, but without his expertise we had to buy a new one. I made it to the local hardware store with only minutes to go before closing. Uusually we would be fine without power but a very cold night was forecast and we knew we would need the heater. With an overnight temperature of 0.2°C we were glad I'd made the mad dash into town.

Mick has access to a private property that is well set up for birding just out of town, so he headed out early in the morning for a session. On his return we headed into town to do some shopping and have a look around. We had planned to stay only two nights but decided to stay and extra one, giving Mick a few more opportunities to visit one of his favourite spots. 

We had wanted to stay in Girraween National Park again but it was fully booked so we researched a few more places that might suit us, without success. It was school holidays in both Queensland and New South Wales so all the popular spots were taken. We left Tenterfield and headed towards Cunnamulla - again not really sure where we would end up for the night.

Port Macquarie

 23 - 26 September 2025

After a false start due to a lost phone, we drove south from Sapphire Beach, on the motorway towards Port Macquarie. Once again we found a rest area to have a picnic lunch and arrived at our caravan park around 1:30pm. The one we had chosen is right in town, by the breakwall. Our friends, Anne and Stephen, had already arrived from their home at Fingal Bay so we joined them once we had set up. We all went for a walk along the Hastings River towards Town Beach and discussed our plans for the next couple of days.

There's lot to see and do in Port Macquarie

The next day we all went for another walk towards Town Beach, then drove to Sea Acres Rainforest Centre. We had morning tea at the cafe before walking along the elevated boardwalk. Mick was hoping to spot the Powerful owl that makes Sea Acres it's home -  once again without success. 

Mick had to get organised for the pelagic boat trip the following day so Anne and I walked in to town to do some shopping and pick up some supplies. In the evening, after some drinks and snacks we wandered down to a nearby cafe for a light meal. The weather was perfect, but there had been some discussion that the boat trip might be cancelled. Confirmation that it would go ahead came quite late in the day, but Mick had everything ready anyway.

We had to be up early to so Mick could be at the boat for a 7:00am departure, and Anne came for the walk with us. It's a very pleasant walk along the breakwall, especially early in the morning. Anne and Stephen had to leave that morning so I had the rest of the day to myself to potter around and wander into town. 

Mick arrived home after a successful day's birding and I met a friend for a drink at the same cafe we had eaten at the day before. Sally and I worked together in Townsville more than 10 years ago so it was nice to catch up again. 

We enjoyed our three nights in Port Macquarie but it was time to move on, so we set the GPS for Tenterfield, not sure whether we would get there in one go or have an overnight stop. We headed back up the motorway and turned off towards Grafton.

Sapphire Beach

 21 - 23 September 2025

Leaving Lennox Head we stopped at one of the lookouts and saw humpback whales on their southern migration, off in the distance. We continued on through Ballina and on to the motorway southbound. We still weren't sure where we would stay but thought somewhere near Coffs Harbour would be nice. We decided to go in to Red Rock for lunch and to make up our minds.

There is a lovely and very well used parkland on the banks of the Corindi River so we stopped there for a picnic. There were so many people enjoying the sunshine, having picnics and paddling in the shallow water we wondered what it would be like closer to Coffs. We decided not to stay at Red Rock but to continue on south. We rang a couple of caravan parks and found that they were full. We hadn't realised the impact that Queensland school holidays would have on this part of the New South Wales north coast. 

Fortunately the caravan park at Sapphire Beach had room for us - and plenty more - so we headed in there and scored a good spot right near the beach. There was some bush behind us and a walking track to the sand. It's always nice to be able to hear the waves nearby. 

No crowds at Sapphire Beach

We went for a long walk on the beach and  then drove into Coffs Harbour to do some errands. Mick also carried out a small repair on the camper trailer while I did some washing. Sapphire Beach turned out to be a terrific spot to spend a few nights - close enough to town, but far enough away to be peaceful.

Our next stop would be Port Macquarie, which we were looking forward to very much as an opportunity to catch up with friends and for Mick to get out on a pelagic birding trip. We had a bit of a false start when Mick left his phone at the caravan park and we had to backtrack. Luckily we had only travelled about 1/2 hour down the road before we received a call to say it had been found - he hadn't even realised he didn't have it. So, back we went and started all over again. It was a good thing that we didn't have a long way to go that day.

Lennox Head

 19 - 21 September 2025

We set off from O'Reillys and drove back down the windy mountain road to pick up the camper trailer in Canungra. We had enjoyed the usual enormous breakfast before leaving so knew we could hold out for a slightly later than usual lunch. We continued through the back of the Gold Coast and south onto the motorway, and some significant traffic jams. We really don't like this much traffic. We found a rest area to have a quick picnic lunch and then continued on to Lennox Head.

We had wanted to return to Ballina to visit Flat Rock, a favourite birding spot, but when we checked caravan parks a few weeks before, we found they were way overpriced, many had 4 night minimum stays, and some seriously concerning reviews. Some had all of these which really put us off. Happily, we found the caravan park at Lennox Head, just north of Ballina, to be more reasonably priced and to have space for us. On the website a four night minimum stay was advertised but a phone call established that they were happy to waive this for us.

We arrived early in the afternoon and set up on a lovely big spot in an area that was not full, but with some friendly neighbours. Once we had settled in, Mick made contact with a birding friend and headed off to meet him. By chance the spot they were going is actually closer to Lennox than to Ballina anyway, and Flat Rock is half-way between the two. While Mick was gone I socialised with our neighbour, a solo female with a dog, on their first "shake down" trip. Mick joined us, and another solo neighbour, and we shared lots of travel tales.

On Saturday Mick went out early to the spot in heathland near Seven Mile Beach that he had been told about and later we headed down to Flat Rock together.  Although the birding wasn't great, we did see whales offshore. Late in the afternoon we went back to the Heathland spot and wandered the tracks looking for birds.

We could see whales from the lookout

Once again we left our camp spot not really knowing where we would stay next. We still had 2 nights to fill in before we were booked in at Port Macquarie. Leaving Lennox Head, we stopped at one of the many lookouts and again saw humpback whales - there seemed to be lots about on their southern migration. We returned to the motorway and headed south, with Red Rock in mind as a place to stop.

O'Reilly's Rainforest Retreat - Lamington National Park

 16 - 19 September 2025

We have been to O'Reilly's a few times before and are always keen to return so it seemed like a good idea to book a stay while we were on our way south. The drive from Canungra is only 35km but the road is narrow and windy, so takes around an hour. Even though there is a campground, I would never want to tow the camper trailer up that road. Besides, it's so nice staying at the retreat.

We arrived in time for morning tea in the cafe, before getting ready for a walk. We knew we would not be able to check in until later so had plenty of time to fill in. We were stopped by a fellow birder who was on her own and keen for a chat, and also some company so she tagged along with us on the Border Track. We eventually parted ways and found a nice spot for our picnic lunch.

By the time we had packed everything up it was almost check-in time so, while Mick walked some more in one of his favourite birding spots, I went to check in. All the rooms have great views and this one was no exception. The bonus with this one was that parking was right outside our door. On our last couple of visits we have had to park quite a way from our room and cart all our gear up a flight of stairs.

Every room has a view

Our package this time included the usual generous buffet breakfast, early morning bird walks, afternoon tea and manager's welcome (complete with a glass of sparkling wine) as well as a  morning 4WD Tour. Last time the nocturnal tour had been included but it was not available this time.

We did some more walking and lots of photographing of birds and decided to have our evening meal in the bar. They do a fairly good pizza which we shared by the fire, with a couple of drinks. Dinner is also available in the restaurant, but the new buffet prices were beyond our budget. The bar is cosy and relaxed, so suits us.

Breakfast is the best buffet you will find anywhere (in our opinion anyway) and the service is friendly and efficient. We always take our time over a big breakfast, usually after Mick has been out on the early morning bird walk. 

On our first morning we had to be ready for the 4WD tour at 9:00am. This tour takes you to many spots that are not otherwise accessible and includes lots of information about the history of the O'Reilly family and how the Retreat came to be. It was an interesting tour despite the lack of birding opportunities.

We spent the rest of our time walking along the many easy tracks, Mick photographing birds, me just enjoying being in the bush in this beautiful section of the ancient Gondwana rainforest. It truly is a special place. We sometimes wish we lived closer so we could visit more often.

There's always something interesting 
to see in the rainforest

After our usual big breakfast, we packed up and went for one last walk along the Border Track, past the Mountain Gardens and Tree Top Walk, before setting off back down the mountain. Once we had collected the trailer, we started making our way back towards the coast and on into New South Wales.

Canungra

 15 - 16 September 2025

We packed up and left Hardings Paddock after an early morning tea and set off for Canungra. We were booked in for three nights at O'Reillys Rainforest Retreat and we needed to leave the camper trailer somewhere convenient. The Canungra Showgrounds offer camping and also storage which suited us very nicely.

We arrived mid-morning and set up in a spot on "the oval" - no shade and with the power access a very long way away so we needed to borrow an extension cord. There were sites closer to the power but we didn't realise until we had set up. Lesson learned - always check first. On a walk around the campground we found some much nicer spots down by the creek which would definitely be our choice if ever we returned to stay for more than one night.

Canungra Creek

We had lunch and set about packing our things for three nights up on the mountain without the camper. This included doing some shopping so that we could have some "picnic" dinners. Meals are available at O'Reillys, but are very expensive and a bit limited in variety. Once we were organised we relaxed and enjoyed the afternoon wandering through the village. We thought it was surprisingly busy for a Monday out of school holidays.

In the morning we packed up and moved the trailer onto the unpowered storage spot. We needed to keep the fridge going, and while it probably would have been ok for three nights, we set up the solar panel to keep the batteries topped up anyway. Once everything was secure, we set off for the short, but challenging drive up to Lamington National Park.

Hardings Paddock

 14 - 15 September 2025

We still had  a night to fill in before we were booked in to the campground at Canungra so we settled on a return to Hardings Paddock, near Ipswich. It was not far out of the way, would help us avoid city traffic and is a nice peaceful spot. We left Barambah and took a detour to Kingaroy so we could buy a new GPS. I definitely didn't want to be relying solely on the phone. I actually like to use both at the same time - it works for me anyway.

Once we had the new GPS we fuelled up and headed off towards Nanango where we stopped for a cuppa. From there we continued on to Esk for lunch. Coming through close to Ipswich was easier than we thought it might be as it was a Sunday. We hadn't consciously planned it that way but it worked out well. The downside was that Hardings Paddock is a popular location for horse riders and the public area was very busy when we arrived. 

Late afternoon at the paddock

The campground must be booked in advance through the Ipswich City Council and a gate code is provided. Entry to the campground is restricted to those who have booked which makes it feel very secure. There was only a couple of other campers so we enjoyed a quiet and peaceful afternoon. Mick went out looking for birds of course. It was a very cold night and a communal fire ring is available but we hadn't thought to bring firewood with us.

Once again we had set up for a quick overnighter so packing up didn't take too long. We were soon back on the road and on our way to Canungra.

Barambah

 12 - 14 September 2025

We left Inskip Point and drove back towards Gympie before rejoining the Bruce Highway, heading north for a short way. We then turned off towards Goomeri. Once again we weren't sure where we would stay but had a couple of possibilities near Kilkivan or Goomeri in mind. We'd never stayed in this area before so everything was new to us.

We stopped at a rest area near Kilkivan but decided to keep on going. The campground nearby was closed for a private function. We pushed on through Goomeri and ended up at Barambah. The caravan park was on our list because of the reviews and location in a bush-like setting. We were given the choice of a few spots and happily chose one with a view over the property, in the "caravan park" section.  Unpowered camping is available in a less structured way adjacent to a number of dams.

The locals were curious

The owner/operators were welcoming and friendly, and the facilities well looked after. In the late afternoon there is bird feeding near the office. This was very popular and a great way of getting to chat with the owners and fellow campers.

We drove in to Murgon to do some shopping and to have a look around, and later in the day we set off to drive to a local attraction - Boat Mountain Conservation Park. Mick was hoping to do some birding and I was hoping for a nice bush walk. Our GPS had died that morning and we were relying on Google Maps. Without a cradle to put the phone in, I had to make do with the audio directions - and ended up getting hopelessly lost. We had to back-track significantly but eventually found our way to the mountain. 

Once at the top we had a bit of a look around and set off on the walk. We didn't get too far - only to the first lookout. The track was very steep with very many stairs. After a stop at the lookout, and no birds to photograph, we decided to head home. 

Barambah was a good spot for a couple of days - close enough to town, and with lots to do in the area. It's on the list of places we would be happy to visit again.

Inskip Peninsula Recreation Area - MV Sarawak Campground

 10 - 12 September 2025

We had a fairly short drive of only about 2 hours to get to our next destination - Inskip Point. We had booked to stay at MV Sarawak Campground but you can't book an actual site. There are a number of campgrounds but we chose the one we had stayed at before. We wanted to get there early so that we would have a better choice of sites than if we arrived later. 

We arrived just before noon and were able to get a nice spot. It was a bit back from the beach, which was quite windy, and had some shade. We were able to position the trailer to minimise the effect of the wind. We set up, had lunch and went for a walk along a bush track and then on to the beach. As expected, the campground filled up as the afternoon progressed.

K'Gari is just across  Great Sandy Strait

Mick made several visits to a couple of birding "hot spots" and was rewarded with some sightings he had been hoping for. I went out with him a couple of times and enjoyed the walks in the bush. In the afternoon we drove into Rainbow Beach for a look around - and an ice cream.

We had toyed with the idea of extending our stay by another night but didn't really want to be in this location on a weekend. We had read lots of reviews suggesting that it becomes over crowded and is not as nice as mid-week. 

We came up with a plan for our next destination and set off in the morning, through Gympie and then heading west to avoid Brisbane.

Lake Redbrook (Childers)

 9 - 10 September 2025

We moved on to Lake Redbrook, arriving in the early afternoon. We intended to stay just one night and checked in to a nice site with a view through to the lake. There's some good birding around the lake, and after three nights in a very crowded campground it was so nice to be somewhere quieter and more laid back.

We drove in to Childers later in the day to do some shopping, and spend some time having a look around. It was a very hot afternoon and it was good to escape the worst of it by visiting air conditioned shops! We returned to camp and Mick spent some time down by the lake with the camera.

There is good birding by the lake

We had booked to stay at Inskip Point for the next couple of nights so headed off early, hoping to be able to get a good spot.

Tannum Sands

 6 - 9 September 2025

We left Bowen to continue our journey south, with the aim to get to somewhere around Rockhampton. We drove through Mackay and made our first stop at Sarina where we planned to grab a coffee at the Visitor Information Centre only to discover that they aren't open on the weekend. Bad luck, so we jumped back in the car and continued on.

Next we stopped for lunch at the beach side picnic area in Clairview. This has become a regular stop for us, and is quite a popular spot judging by the number of cars and caravans coming and going. We pushed on and reached Rockhampton where we pulled over to consider our options. We had thought to stay just a little way south so Mick could re-visit a birding spot at Port Alma, but in the end we decided against it.

We'd had a long drive and decided that we could keep going through to Tannum Sands, which would take almost another two hours, and have us arriving around 5:00pm. I had a look online but couldn't see any availability at the caravan park, so called instead. Yes, they did have a site for a couple of nights, but the office would be closed when we arrived. We booked the site and continued on.

We hadn't ever been to Tannum Sands before and were looking forward to a couple of days relaxing at the beach after a few fairly hectic, long days in the car. We made our way to the caravan park and located our site - but, my goodness, what a disappointment. The place was packed and we were allocated the last site - tucked up into the corner, jammed in between huge caravans and as far away from the amenities as you could get. We had no other option but to set up and hope we could get a site change in the morning. Being a Saturday night we figured there might be some vacant spots on Sunday.

In the morning we went for a walk on the beach and called in to the office on our way back. We were very pleased to be given a choice of a few sites and selected one in a much  better location. We also extended our stay by another night. We packed up and moved to our new spot - it didn't feel as crowded, had nice green grass underfoot, was  beside a tree for shade and was a short walk to the amenities. All in all it was a much better site.

A walk on the beach
is always a good way to start the day

We did the usual things we do when in a new place - we went looking for birds. Mick had a couple of spots to check out but we had some difficulty locating access points so it wasn't a very productive outing. We did get to see some of this location which was nice. We enjoyed walks on the beach but neither of us felt it was quite what we were expecting. It was a good place to stay, but not a great spot.

Next, we would continue south to Lake Redbrook, near Childers. We stayed there once in a cabin and were keen to return. 

Bowen

 5 - 6 September 2025

After a quick over-nighter at Cowley Beach we returned to the Bruce Highway and our journey south. We stopped for fuel in Cardwell and then drove to Jourama Falls Day Use Area in the Paluma Range National Park, for morning tea and a spot of birding. There were lots of cars there but we managed to find a place to park the camper trailer, not far from one of a number of picnic shelters.

Once we left Jourama Falls, we knew that we would need to find a lunch stop before we reached Townsville. We found a new rest area just north of Bluewater and had our picnic there. It was nothing flash, but did the job. We drove through Townsville on the Ring Road for the very first time. We have entered or exited Townsville that way many times, but this was the first time using it as a by-pass. It is an excellent way to get through the city without having to tangle with traffic.

Once through Townsville we were confident that we could make it to Sarina for the night - until we reached Bowen and saw the illluminated sign on the south side of town indicating that the highway was closed between Bowen and Sarina. I checked the Queensland Traffic app and saw that there had been a serious crash and the road would be closed for some time. As it was already after 3:00pm we decided it would be unwise to wait and started calling caravan parks to see if we could get a spot. In peak tourist season most parks were full but we did get a site at one near the harbour. We'd stayed there before so were happy that it was in a good location.

As it was Friday, and as our plans had been rail-roaded, we treated ourselves to dinner at the pub. The Grand View Hotel is a short walk from the caravan park and serves very nice meals. There was rain about but it didn't eventuate in our location so we were able to enjoy a leisurely stroll to the pub and back.

We made the most of our unexpected stopover

We set off early the next morning, hoping to get to somewhere around Rockhampton.

Cowley Beach

 4 - 5 September 2025

After a week back on the Atherton Tablelands, we headed off again. Mick had been able to book a spot on a pelagic (off shore birding trip) out of Port Macquarie so we left Yungaburra and travelled via the Palmerston Highway, heading south. Because of our late in the day departure, we knew we wouldn't get too far. We made it to Cowley Beach and decided that would do nicely. We'd never been there before and, while we have our favourite places we like to go back to, we also like to try out new spots.

We found the caravan park, right on the beach and were given a good big site for the night. We went for a walk on the beach and enjoyed the quiet surrounds. There's not much at Cowley Beach, but it's still a very nice spot for an overnighter.

We enjoyed a late afternoon stroll on the beach

We decided in the morning to get as far as we could as we had managed to book a few nights at O'Reillys in the Gold Coast hinterland so needed to keep our journey on track - while still allowing a few stays in nice places. We knew we had plenty of time, but felt a push south would be the best thing, then we could take our time a bit once we were closer to our destinations. With that in mind we headed off quite early with a plan to have a break in Cardwell, before continuing on. 

Yungaburra

 29 August - 4 September 2025

Once we left Artemis, our Cape York trip was over and it was time to return to the Tablelands - however it would only be a brief stay. We made the usual stops at Lakeland and Rifle Creek before arriving at Lakeside near Yungaburra. We had some credit from when we'd had to cancel last year, so checked in for 5 nights, and then extended it to 7. We were given a good site with views to the lake in two directions, and settled in.

We spent our time doing all the usual Tablelands things - visiting Petersen Creek, Hasties Swamp, Lake Eacham and Lake Barrine. I's always nice to be able to have easy access to a number of spots with good birding and great walks. We also had lots of housekeeping to do - including trying to get rid of the red dirt and dust that accumulates when you travel on unsealed roads. 

We woke up one morning to fog so thick
you couldn't see the lake

We drove over to Ravenshoe to visit our friends Rob and Cheryl and to pick up a couple of things we had left there before the Cape trip, and drop off a couple of things we wouldn't need again for a while. Of course, on the way home we stopped at Mount Hypipamee. We had been hearing about a resident cassowary but, despite visiting regularly, had never seen it - until this visit. We were returning from the walk to the crater when we spotted it near the bridge over the creek. It wandered around for a while, and we were able to get a very good look at it, and quite a few photos. 

While we were in Weipa we found out about the opportunity for Mick to get on a Pelagic birding trip out of Port Macquarie. He was able to secure a spot so we set about planning a southern trip. Port Macquarie is quite a favourite spot so we were happy to go there, and we managed to talk friends Anne and Stephen into joining us for a couple of nights. They live at Fingal Bay so it would be a short trip for them. We figured while we were heading south we should go up to O'Reillys too, so we included that in the plan.

On our final day we had arranged for some work to be done on the camper trailer while we were still onsite in the caravan park. Consequently, we didn't leave until after lunch. Again, we weren't sure where we would end up, but knew it would probably be a beach somewhere.

Artemis Station

 28 - 29 August 2025

We left Weipa for the long drive south with no firm plan about where we would stop for the night. We intended to drive until we were ready to stop, and had a few possibilities in mind. We stopped at the rest area at the Bamaga turn-off again, as well as "The Bend" north of Coen. We continued on and decided that we would have another night at Artemis Station.

We arrived fairly late in the afternoon to find we were the only ones camped there - how different to our visit a few weeks previously. That time the campground was packed, and this time it was quiet and peaceful. We were glad we had returned. 

A relaxing overnighter at Artemis

It was a relaxing afternoon watching the sun go down without anyone else around. Even though we were the only ones there, the donkey boiler was lit so we could have a hot shower. The campground is well looked after and owners and staff friendly and obliging - all for $10pp.

We left in the morning, intending to stay at Yungaburra where we had some credit from a previously cancelled stay. 

Weipa

 25 - 28 August 2025

We left Rainforest Campground in Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) National Park and set off for Weipa. It was a long drive, with a stop at Mount Tozer Lookout, before re-joining the Peninsula Development Road north of Archer River. We stopped for lunch at the rest area at the Bamaga turn-off then continued on the PDR into Weipa. Again, the road was in reasonable condition, with some rougher patches along the way.

We made it to Weipa by about 3:00pm and set up on a very nice campsite in the caravan park. We had a big tree for shade and could see the water in the distance. The weather was warming up and we were expecting to need the shade, and to spend time in the pool. After a big day's drive we decided on dinner at the cafe attached to the caravan park. We wandered over with our drinks as the sun was starting to set.

Sunset over the Gulf of Carpentaria

While we were in Weipa we did a spot of birding (to the sewerage ponds and the jetty at Evans Landing) and also visited the Op Shop with the best selection of second hand books you could hope to find. The price - a gold coin donation for as many as you want - can't be beaten. I grabbed a pile and happily made a donation. We completed the usual housekeeping tasks - shopping, washing and tidying - before getting ready to start heading south again.

Once again we weren't sure where we would aim for when we left so explored a couple of possibilites, deciding to see how far we could travel.

Kutini - Payamu (Iron Range) National Park - Rainforest Campground

 24 - 25 August 2025

There are only three campsites at Rainforest Campground and Mick had already spent some time there birding, so he knew which one would be best for us. The sites are quite large but only one is listed as suitable for caravans as the other two have quite tricky entrances. We booked one of those two (as they were the only ones available) and Mick was confident that he would be able to manouvre onto the spot. We left Chilli Beach quite late and made a stop at Cooks Hut campground where we had lunch before the short drive to Rainforest Campground.

All that remains of the cook's hut

We set up - after a bit of an effort to get the camper onto the site - and Mick spent the rest of the afternoon out with binoculars and camera. Despite the location, there was no rain which made our overnighter without the awning much easier. Most visitors here are birders or those who appreciate the natural environment, while the "list tickers" head to Chilli Beach. We enjoyed our time at each location we stayed at, but prefer the quieter places.

Our next stop would be Weipa, which would mean quite a drive, so an early start in the morning.

Kutini - Payamu (Iron Range) National Park - Chilli Beach Campground

 21 - 24 August 2025

We left the comparative luxury of Portland House and drove down to the Chilli Beach Campground. It is well known as a windy spot so we had taken some time to selectma campsite that would afford some protection. After reading many reviews, we were able to book one that sounded like it would suit. We arrived early, hoping that we could get onto our site. Chilli Beach is also well known as a spot where lots of people just turn up and set up camp without booking so we were pleased to find our camp was not occupied.

We were able to position the camper trailer side on to the beach so that we would not get blown away if the wind came up. It was a beautiful spot, right by the beach, with some trees for shade and extra protection, and enough clear space between us and neighbouring sites to be able to get the solar panels set up. We walked on the beach and Mick did lots of birding.

Picture postcard perfect!

e realised we would be there for an interesting phenomenon - a murmuration of Metallic starlings so we positioned ourselves on the beach late in the afternoon to watch as thousands of starlings whirled around the nearby rocky islands. It was fascinating to watch and even the non-birders were captivated. 

On Saturday we drove back to Portland Roads for lunch at Out of the Blue Cafe. The food and service were fantastic - as was the view from the deck. 

Once again we didn't have firm plans for our next stop - Mick was keen to have another night at Cooks Hut before moving on to Weipa, but in the end we decided to have a night at Rainforest Camp - still in the national park - instead. We booked before we left Chilli Beach to head back to the rainforest.

Portland Roads - Portland House

 18 - 21 August 2025

Last year we stayed at The Greenhoose, at Lockhart River, but that trip was cut short when Mick had to be airlifted to Cairns with appendicitis, so we had some unfinished business up here. This time we decided to treat ourselves to three nights at Portland House, at Portland Roads.

We took our time leaving Cooks Hut and departed after lunch. We made a couple of stops along the way at some likely birding spots before reaching our home for the next three nights. When we arrived our hosts were finishing a repair in the kitchen so we went for a short walk. We were able to park the camper trailer so that we could use the solar panels to keep the battery topped up and the fridge running while we were in the house.

Portland House is set on a rise looking our over the bay. The term "roads" means "safe anchorage" and we saw a number of yachts taking advantage over the three days we were there. Mick did a little birding around the property and nearby, but mostly we just enjoyed sitting on the verandah taking in the fabulous view. We also enjoyed the luxury of a house with a proper kitchen and our own bathroom!

The sunsets were stunning!

The house is adjacent to "Out of the Blue" cafe - also owned by our hosts Greg and Sheree - but the cafe wasn't open on the days we were there. We booked to come back for lunch later in the week, when we would be camping not far away.

The three nights went quickly, and it was time to go back to the camper trailer - but worth it for the locations we can get to! We packed up and had morning tea at the cafe before we set off for three nights back in Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) National Park - this time at Chilli Beach.

Kutini - Payamu (Iron Range) National Park - Cooks Hut Campground

 15 - 18 August 2025

We left Archer River Roadhouse and took the turn-off towards Portland Roads. We had booked 3 nights at Cooks Hut Campground in Kutini - Payamu (Iron Range) National Park and were very much looking forward to it. The road wasn't in terrible condition but there were still some bad patches. We found a spot to stop and have a bite to eat then stopped at  Mount Tozer Lookout before continuing on to the campground.

We had booked a different spot to the one we stayed on last year - this one is on the edge of the campground with the rainforest behind us, so a little bit quieter. Most of the other campers who stayed there while we were there were also birders, so lots of information was shared.

It's essential to keep the camera handy -
even when having Friday drinks

We were lucky to have great weather this time and Mick was able to venture out to a number of favourite spots at the other campgrounds nearby, along the track at the back of Cooks Hut, along the Old Coen Track and along the main road. Even though I'm not a birder, I really enjoy spending time in places like this. 

Our next stop would be for three nights in a house at Portland Roads, only about 35 minutes away, so we didn't need to rush to get going. We drove in to Lockhart River to pick up some supplies, and also to fuel up, before returning to camp to finish packing up and set off. 

Archer River Roadhouse

14 - 15 August 2025

We left Artemis Station without a firm plan about where we would spend the night. There are a couple of options at Coen, and beyond that, Archer River Roadhouse. There is also a campground after the turn-off to Kutini-Payamu NP. We drove through Coen and decided it was too early to stop - neither behind the pub, nor the campground at the guest house, seemed appealing. We continued on to a popular free camp just north of town, known as "The Bend". 

We stopped by the river and had a picnic lunch while we considered our options. In the end we decided not to camp at The Bend, and instead continued on to Archer River. The further we went, the closer we would be to the national park campground we had booked for the following nights. 

The campground at the Archer River Roadhouse is large and there was plenty of room for campers to not be on top of each other.  We found a spot with a bit of shade and settled in for the afternoon. We went for a walk down to the river and had a paddle but didn't swim. There were lots of caravans parked on the old (low level) bridge and families enjoying the water.

Plenty of room for everyone

Archer River is a good spot for an overnighter, and there were lots of others there on their way to or from "The Tip". In the morning we set off for a more than a week on the eastern part of Cape York.

Artemis Station

 12 - 14 August 2025

We left Hann Crossing Campground early and stopped for some birding and breakfast at Nifold Plain in Rinyirru National Park, before continuing on to photograph the Red goshawk, and then on to Artemis Station.

There's a croc in that waterhole

Artemis Station is well known as a breeding location for the Golden-shouldered parrot so it was on our list of places to visit. We arrived quite early in the day and chose a spot that would give us some shade. There was only one other camper when we arrived but the campground started to fill up as the afternoon wore on. It seems that Artemis has become a "go to" place for those wanting somewhere to spend the night on the way to or from "The Tip". It's a bit of a shame as, in our opinion, it has changed the atmosphere of the campground somewhat, with big groups "parking the wagons in a circle" with little regard for others. Birders, once the bulk of visitors, are now in the minority.

Regardless of the noisy caravanners, we still had a nice time at Artemis. The early birds left and we had the campground almost to ourselves - with one other birding couple - for most of the day, until the grounds started to fill up again. This time, in addition to the caravanners there was a big tour group. Definitely not what we had expected! It really is hard walking around a campground looking for birds with binoculars and camera when there are so many people nearby. 

We spent two nights at Artemis and Mick visited the feeding station a number of times to take photos of the parrots so it was a productive stop anyway. 

We had one more night to fill in before we were booked into Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) National Park but weren't sure where we would stop when we left Artemis. We'd decide along the way.

Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park - Hann Crossing Campground

 11 - 12 August 2025

After two nights at Twelve Mile Lagoon we moved on to another campground within the National Park - Hann Crossing. We've stayed there a couple of times before, but when we booked a few weeks before leaving Ravenshoe we weren't able to get the spot we wanted to so were forced to choose another one that we didn't think would be as good. As luck would have it I checked again a few days before we were due to arrive and was able to get back onto the spot we had last time. It's right on the river, huge, a short walk to the toilets and quite private. 

We left Twelve Mile quite late and stopped again at the ranger station, then continued on to Hann Crossing. Because we were only staying one night we didn't bother with the awning. This would also allow us to get away early in the morning.

Up early, ready to move on

We set up camp on the river at Hann Crossing and enjoyed a very relaxing afternoon, which included some birdwatching of course. In the morning we left as the sun was coming up and drove to another good birding spot, Nifold Plain. Mick spent a while taking photos and we had our breakfast there before we moved on to another spot to hopefully photograph the Red goshawk.

We'd found the goshawk on our ill-fated trip north the previous year so Mick was hopeful to find it again. His patience was rewarded with some great shots of the bird and it's nest. From there we drove on to Musgrave Roadhouse and the south to Artemis Station.

Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park - Twelve Mile Lagoon Campground

 9 - 11 August 2025

We felt our real Cape York adventure had begun when we left Endeavour Falls and headed towards Battlecamp Road that would take us into Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park. Along the way we stopped at Isabella Falls before entering the park. The unsealed road was in surprisingly good condition and we made it to Lakefield Ranger Station in time for lunch. From there we continued on to Twelve Mile Campground.

We generally choose campgrounds with toilets but wanted to stay somewhere different on this visit to Rinyirru so we booked a couple of nights at Twelve Mile. There are no facilities but the sites looked to be well spread out and we managed to book one right on the river. The track in is narrow and windy in parts and we had to stop at the turn-off for a group of five vehicles to leave before we could begin the drive to our campsite.

We had read lots of reviews and chose Site 5, and we are very glad we did. The site itself is huge and sits on the high bank of the Normanby River. Because there is quite a long track down to the site we weren't bothered by others driving by. Some of the sites are right on the road but ours was very private. We were able to position the camper trailer to get some sun and some shade. 

The view from our campsite

We spent a couple of very relaxing days watching the resident crocodile opposite our camp, and driving along the track to check out the other campsites - and to look for birds. We had collected firewood before we reached the camp so we were able to have a fire too.

We didn't need to hurry on our last morning as we were only going as far as Hann Crossing Campground so we took out time and headed out mid-morning.

Endeavour Falls

 7 - 9 August 2025

After a walk along the beach to marvel at the coloured sands at Elim Beach, we headed back towards Cooktown, stopping to spend a couple of nights at Endeavour Falls. The caravan park comes highly recommended, with lovely green grass and lots of trees. The falls are accessed from a track at the back of the park.

The falls are a short walk from the caravan park

We planned to spend two nights there getting prepared for our Cape York Peninsula trip, stocking up on groceries, washing and organising the storage so everything we might need would be easily accessible. 

Once the washing was on the line we drove into town with a stop  suggested by the caravan park owner. A suspension bridge spans a creek that joins into the Endeavour River at a T junction. Walking across the bridge we spotted a large crocodile on the bank of Endeavour River. We walked a little further and realised she was the smaller of a pair sunning themselves on the water's edge. She was big, but he was huge. 

We continued on into town and another walk along the river before heading to pick up groceries and then on back to the caravan park. Restocked and repacked we were ready to venture further north.

Elim Beach

 5 - 7 August 2025

We arrived at Elim Beach just on lunch time and were given a choice of a few spots to camp. We chose one that was ample in size and would give us some shade as well as sun for solar. It was close to the amenities and also allowed glimpses of the beach. There are no powered sites, and showers are cold water only. It's a popular fishing spot, but is most well know for the coloured sands further along the beach. 

The coloured sands start about 300 metres from the campground, and can be reached via a well formed sandy track from the campground. We checked the tides and decided to leave that excursion until our last morning. We went for walks on the beach and also a drive back along the road towards Hope Vale, looking for birds of course.

We enjoyed a very relaxing couple of days and packed up ready to leave, then drove down to walk to the coloured sands. The colours and formations were amazing, and we were the only ones there for most of our time. We walked a long way and were constantly surprised by what we saw. One of the most unusual sights was a "waterfall" of sand coming from high up the sand cliff, and cascading towards the bottom.

The coloured sands are definitely worth a visit

We returned to the campground and hitched up ready to continue our journey. We had booked to stay in Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park but still had some time to spare so we decided to head back towards Cooktown to get ready for the trip to the Cape. This time we chose to stay out of town at Endeavour Falls.

Cooktown

 4 - 5 August 2025

Our plan was to drive from Daintree towards Elim Beach which is north of Cooktown. The shortest way to travel is via the Bloomfield Track, but towing is not recommended at the moment. The road suffered significant damage from Cyclone Jasper and the intense rainfall that followed. Even though this was in December 2023/January 2024 the road is still undergoing repairs. We know that some people ignore the "no towing" request but we aren't those people, so we went the long way.

We travelled back up the Rex Range Road, with another stop at Abattoir Swamp and then a lunch stop at Rifle Creek near Mount Molloy. From there we headed north along Mulligan Highway. We decided that we would make up our minds how much further we would go, once we reached Lakeland.

Because we'd had a late start, and Elim Beach was still a fair way off, we decided to have a night in Cooktown. You can't make a booking for Elim Beach and we didn't want to arrive late in the day and end up with a less than ideal camp spot, so we continued on to Cooktown and the caravan park we have stayed in a couple of times before. It was quite crowded but we did get a good spot where we could stay hitched up for the night. 

A small history lesson for those not aware.

In the morning we drove to Mulbabidgee Keatings Lagoon for a walk to the bird hide and then returned to town for a walk along the foreshore. We left Cooktown and drove through Hope Vale and then on to Elim Beach, where we planned to spend a couple of nights.

Daintree Village

 2 - 4 August 2025

Leaving Ravenshoe our plan was to travel to Cape York Peninsula - but first we would have a couple of nights at Daintree Village. It's a spot we love, not least because there are a number of excellent nature and birdwatching cruises that depart from there. Once again we would stay at the caravan park in the village which is right on the river, and an easy stroll down to the boat ramp.

We left Ravenshoe and drove through Atherton and on to Rocky Creek War Memorial Park where we stopped for a picnic lunch. This is a very popular "free camp" and there is a nice sheltered picnic area away from the camping area. It's become a bit of a favourite spot to stop on our way through. Another favourite is Abattoir Swamp, just past Mount Molloy, where Mick did a spot of birding. We had plenty of time to get to Daintree so there was no need to hurry.

Early the next morning Mick headed out on one of the river cruises which feature birdwatching - most of them are more focussed on crocodile spotting. It's an early start but worth it when you get a good clear day and a knowledgeable guide. 

The fog was so thick we couldn't see the river

The nights were cold and we woke to a very foggy (and damp) morning on our second and last day so we waited until the sun was shining and the canvas had dried out a bit before we packed up and set off for Cooktown.

Ravenshoe - House Sit

 13 July - 2 August 2025

We were invited back to Ravenshoe to house sit again and gladly accepted. This time we would be there for three weeks over winter. Ravenshoe sits at an elevation of 930 metres and is often covered in cloud so we were expecting some very cold weather. Rob had left plenty of fire wood and we had all our "Tassie" warmies with us so we weren't too worried. We had to light the fire on a few nights, but mostly the weather was surprisingly mild.

We enjoyed drinks by the fire on cold nights

This time as well as Lexie the dog and the sheep we had looked after last time, we had another 12 sheep. Dinner time was like feeding a mob of 6 year old boys at a birthday party - they followed me into the paddock and almost knocked me over trying to get to the feed. They pushed and shoved each other out of the way and acted like they hadn't eaten in days - instead of having grazed all day. We had one lamb born while we were there and we could see there were more on the way.

Once again we settled into a good routine and used the time to restock our freezer ready for the next leg of our journey. We had decided to go "up the Cape" when we left so we reorganised our gear and arranged to store some things we wouldn't need in the shed.

We took the opportunity to igo "to town" in Atherton a few times on business as well as a rush to the hospital emergency department when Mick developed a very nasty swelling following some sort of a bite. Ticks, leeches and all things bitey seem to love him. Fortunately he was ok with some anti histamines but we never did figure out what had bitten him.

We visited Mt Hypippamee a couple of times and met up with a birding friend who was in the area for a few days. Mick was able to show him where to find a couple of birds he was after so he was very happy.

Homeowners Rob and Cheryl arrived back the night before we were due to leave and we enjoyed a great night with them, and some of their friends and family, at the Ravenshoe Bowls Club. The club hosts a dinner every fortnight - delicious home cooked food at a very reasonable price.

We did all our final packing on the morning of our departure, saaid our goodbyes and set off to Daintree Village where Mick had another boat cruise booked.