Mount Isa

 30 June - 1 July 2025

Neither of us really wanted to stay in Mount Isa but it seemed like the best option for an overnighter so we headed west from Mary Kathleen. Before making our final decision we drove out to Lake Moondara and had morning tea there. There are lovely picnic areas with toilets and showers as well at the lake, and lots to explore if you wanted to spend some time there.

Finally deciding to stay, we headed back to the nearby caravan park and settled in to get some jobs done and to restock before going into some smaller, less well resourced places. We did some washing and then went in to town for groceries and fuel. We repacked and tidied the car and then booked our next stay in a National Park.

Before we left we refilled the water tank and checked that the road we would travel on was open - it was - and set off around 9:30, bound for Miyumba Campground in the Riversleigh section of Boodjamulla National Park.

A roadside stop on the way to Riversleigh

Mary Kathleen

 29 - 30 June 2025

We left Cloncurry after visiting the Sunday markets and headed west again towards Mary Kathleen. We weren't sure whether we would stay there or not as there are no facilities at all. Instead, we thought we might return to camp at Clem Walton Park where there are toilets and a lovely creek, and drive to Mary Kathleen later in the afternoon. We've stayed at Clem Walton Park on a few earlier trips and it's a nice spot to camp for a couple of days.

On the way we stopped at Chinaman Dam - another good birding spot - to have some morning tea. The water level there was evidence of a bumper wet season. Throughout our recent travels we have noticed how green the countryside was compared to previous years, and that many rivers and creeks were flowing.

Further west we turned off the highway and took the road down to Clem Walton park - but it was in dreadful condition and we definitely didn't want to be driving in and out to Mary Kathleen. We stayed and had lunch in the picnic area but the place didn't feel quite the same, with an old guy who had set up a permanent camp right in the middle of the camping area. He probably wasn't causing any harm but combined with the state of the road we made the decision to move on.

We drove back out to the highway and on to the old Mary Kathleen town site. The former uranium mine closed in 1982 but the town site remains, minus all the buildings. It is on private property where camping is permitted. From the town site it is a short (in distance) drive to the mine site. We drove in to the campground and saw that there were lots of people camped, but still heaps of room. With a cold night forecast we drove back out to the highway to collect some firewood a few kilometres away. 

Lots of other campers but still heaps of room

Back to the campsite we chose a nice spot with a makeshift firepit that would do us nicely. Of course we were there for the birds, so later in the afternoon we drove out to the minesite. The road was rough but not as bad as the one into Clem Walton Park. We walked up to the abandoned open pit which is now filled with water. When the sun is right above the water is a beautiful shade of turquoise but late in the day is not so spectacular. Mick spent some time, unsuccessfully, searching for birds before returning to camp.

Who would have thought an old uranium mine pit
could look so pretty?

We had dinner by the fire and an early night. We weren't in a particular hurry to leave in the morning as we were only going as far as Mount Isa. Once packed up we headed west and on to our next destination.

Cloncurry

 28 - 29 June 2025

We had decided to have a night at the old Mary Kathleen town site - for the birding of course. We headed off from Boulia after another walk along the river and stopped at Dajarra for lunch. From there we took the turn-off to Duchess which would have us on mostly gravel roads, but would be a bit shorter than going through Mount Isa.

When we rejoined the Flinders Highway we made a quick decision to head east the short distance to Cloncurry instead of west to Mary Kathleen. It was our 40th wedding anniversary the following day and we thought a pub meal and a night in a motel would be a nice way to celebrate, given our remote location.

We drove around town and selected a motel that was walking distance from a couple of pubs and settled in. We were able to do a load of washing which was a bonus. I had a bottle of prosecco chilled and we had a couple of drinks before setting off to find a pub for dinner. The one we chose was quite crowded - which is always a good sign. The meal and service were very good.

The following morning we headed off to do some grocery shopping and then to the Visitor Information Centre where there was a market. We had a bit of a look around and walked up to the lookout which provided some great views of the area. From there we headed west towards Mary Kathleen.

Fossils on display at the Visitor Centre in Cloncurry

Boulia

 26 - 28 June 2025

After an early start we returned to Lark Quarry for another serach for the Opalton grasswren before setting off towards Boulia. We plotted a course that would take us along some minor roads, goimg via Old Cork. The roads were in surprisingly good condition and we only took one wrong turn. Fortunately we reaslised before we had gone too far and were able to back-track to get ourselves on the right road.

We eventually rejoined the Kennedy Developmental Road and stopped at a rest area to have some lunch, the continued on to Boulia. We checked in to the caravan park and chose a nice shady spot by the Burke River. There was a lot more water in the river than there had been on our last couple of visits.

Late afternoon by the Burke River

This photo shows the same river in 2017 -
such a contrast!

Mick had a birding spot to check out so headed off for an early morning session, while I did some packing up. When he returned we decided to spend an extra day so unpacked again. We both went out in the afternoon but the target birds proved to be elusive. 

We took the opportunity to do some restocking while we were in "town" and also walked down by the river, making this a very pleasant and convenient place to stay. 

After a bit of deliberation we decided to head towards Mary Kathleen via Dajarra - but changed our minds along the way.

Little Jack - near Lark Quarry

 25 - 26 June 2025

We left Opalton and set off for Lark Quarry. We had checked the map and discovered we could cut across country rather than going back into Winton, which made for a much shorter journey. After a short stop for lunch along the way, and a spot of birding, we arrived just on 1:00pm. Bronwyn and John were still there having taken part in the 11:00am tour. They were having some lunch before setting off on one of the harder walks. We treated ourselves to an ice cream and walked up to the lookout. We spent some time looking at the information displays in the visitor centre while we waited for our tour.

The building protects the precious trackway

As luck would have it we were the only two people booked in for 2:00pm so we had a truly personalised tour. Once again, our guide was knowledgeable and we found it fascinating. The trackway has not been fully excavated so no-one knows what else might be hidden.

Big footprints amongst the little one

After time at the Trackway we set off to do some birding down near the airstrip and Telstra tower before continuing on to find where Bronwyn and John had camped for the night. They had sent their location in "what three words" format so, apart from initially missing the turnoff, it was quite easy to locate them.

Little Jack is a free camp in the true sense of the term - nothing there, just a clearing in the bush. We arrived just as the sun went down, so set up quickly and used the last of the timber we collected the day before to start a fire. After some drinks by the fire, we had an easy dinner from the freezer  and an early night.

We made a snap decision in the morning to get up early, pack up and go back to Lark Quarry for one last attempt to photograph the Opalton grasswren. We packed up as quietly as we could, but still woke the others. We said our goodbyes and headed off. We were going to take the Old Cork Road that is just north of Lark Quarry so it wasn't too far out of the way to go back. 

Opalton

 24 - 25 June 2025

We picked up a few supplies, fuelled up and set off for Opalton - in search of the Opalton grasswren. The road is mostly unsealed, but was in reasonable condition. We stopped a couple of times to look for birds and then also to collect firewood. We knew the nights would be cold so wanted to be prepared.

We headed to the community campground - Opalton Bush Camp - and selected a site adjacent to a carport shelter. This would give us some shade and meant we wouldn't have to use the awning. The shelters look like they have been erected to collect water as each has a water tank attached. There are toilets and showers heated by a donkey boiler, but no power. It would suit us nicely for the night. 

Great set-up at Opalton

Mick set off in the afternoon to do some birding, unfortunately without much success. He returned in time to have a shower and get the fire going. Most campers come to Opalton for the fossicking, and they are a friendly bunch.

Mick headed back out in the morning, before we packed up and set off for Lark Quarry. We had booked to do the tour at 2:00pm so were on a bit of a deadline, but figured we would make it in good time.

Winton

 22 - 24 June 2025

We had arranged to meet my sister and her partner in Winton so set off after restocking and fuelling up again. The drive from Hughenden was uneventful, and we arrived just on lunch time so went and had a picnic in the park before checking in to the caravan park.

We went for a walk in town and then later in the afternoon set off to do some birding at the sewerage treatment works. Unfortunately, we couldn't get close enough to see the water so we continued on and drove down to Pelican Waterhole. After a lot of recent rain there was a fair bit of water, and lots of birds around so Mick was happy.

Late afternoon at Pelican Waterhole

One of the main attractions in the area is Australian Age of Dinosaurs Museum, which we had visited 10 years ago. There has been some further development so I was keen to go again. We had booked our visit to also include a trip to Lark Quarry Dinosaur Trackways in a couple of days time. Bronwyn and John had also booked to visit both places.

We were all booked to start our tour at 9:45am with the March of the Titanosaurs, followed by time at Dinosaur Canyon. This exhibit has been added since our last visit and, as with the others, was fantastic. The dinosaur tracks have been painstakingly moved from their original location in a nearby creek bed. It's fascinating to discover how they were found, and what the tracks tell paleontologists. Dinosaur Canyon contains many models of dinosaurs with information about the habitat in which they would have lived. We could have spent a lot more time exploring this part of the complex.

One of many life-sized replicas in Dinosaur Canyon

Our next tour was to the fossil preparation room - probably my favourite. This is where volunteers process the fossils found in the local area. There are so many fossils waiting on shelves to be revealed, our guide said that it would take ten years to get through them all, without bringing in any new ones. 

The final tour was the collection room where the story of how Age of Dinosaurs came about. Graziers David and Judy Elliott had the foresight to contact the Australian Museum when they found what they thought might be dinosaur fossils on their property. Further exploration revealed some unique finds. From humble beginnings the Age of Dinosaurs was born, and continues to grow. In my opinion this is one of the best tourist attractions in Australia, which continues to grow and support research of global significance. 

On Monday night we went for dinner at Tattersall's Hotel for a celebration dinner with Bronwyn and John, and John's sister. In the morning we would head to Opalton and perhaps meet up with them again but nothing was definite.

Hughenden

 20 - 22 June 2025

After a restful night at Porcupine Gorge, followed by the rather strenuous walk out of the gorge, we headed off to Hughenden. Before checking into the caravan park, we drove down to the recreational lake for lunch. Last time we were there it was very windy and it was exactly the same this time.

We moved on to the caravan park and settled in for an afternoon of phone calls and chores. We submitted an insurance claim for the accident with the kangaroo even though we weren't sure what damage may be hiding behind the "smart bar".

The following morning we went for a drive to Mount Walker, about 10km south of the town. There are a number of lookouts, all fairly close together, that give fabulous views of Hughenden and the surrounding countryside. This was our first visit to this location and we were quite impressed with the way it had been set up with lots of information explaining aspects of the landscape.

A short drive for some great views

We did some shopping which included visits to the op-shop, butcher, baker and supermarket. Hughenden is a reasonable sized town where most needs can be met. We also fuelled up at the unmanned, and cheapest, servo before we left in the morning.

Porcupine Gorge National Park - Pyramid Campground

 19 - 20 June 2025

We started the day with a flurry of phone calls, discussions with fellow travellers and internet searches to establish that the route we needed to take was indeed open. We set off along the Kennedy Developmental Road and had only travelled about 15km when a kangaroo bounded out of the long grass and onto the road right in front of us. Mick yelled "watch out" just as I spotted it. I slammed on the brakes but it was too close and I hit it. I can't have been going too fast as the air bags didn't deploy and the roo hopped away - no doubt seriously injured.

We stopped and looked for damage but could really see any. The "smart bar" we had fitted a few years ago seemed to have done its job. Back on the road, a little slower this time,  checking to see there were no warning lights and everything seemed ok. The car was driving normally but as we increased speed a rattle appeared. We stopped to try to find out what it was and discovered that the smart bar had moved slightly, making it difficult, but not impossible, to open the bonnet. We stopped twice more before Mick found the source of the rattle - a plastic piece near the mudguard. He did a "bush fix" and we were back on our way. 

At first we had thought we might need to go straight to Hughenden to get someone to look at the car, but we figured it would be ok so we continued on to Porcupine Gorge where we has a campsite booked for the night. We'd stayed at Pyramid Campground a couple of times in our tent camping days, but this would be the first time in the camper trailer. It looked like the site we had booked had a fire pit so we stopped off along the way to gather some fire wood.

We found our site and it was just perfect - some shade and a fire pit, not too far from the toilets and  a short walk from the gorge itself. We were a bit stressed after our accident so just relaxed through the afternoon and decided to tackle the gorge walk in the morning.

We enjoyed a campfire while we warmed up some soup for dinner, then had an early night. In the morning we set off on the gorge walk at about 8:30am and, as expected we found the walk into the gorge to be relatively easy. There was quite a lot of water in Porcupine Creek so we spent a short time relaxing by the creek before tackling the return journey. The walk back is certainly a challenge and we needed to make a few stops along the way. 

The Pyramid looms large over the gorge

Once back at camp, we had morning tea, then finished the packig up and headed off towards Hughenden.

The Lynd Junction - Oasis Roadhouse

 18 - 19 June 2025

We drove from Cairns to Mareeba where we stopped to fill the water tanks and empty the toilet, then continued on towards Atherton. We stopped for lunch at Rocky Creek War Memorial Park, a very popular free camp, with a good day use area. From there we drove on through Herberton to a birding spot in Wondecla. We had let our friends in Ravenshoe know we were on our way, but we seriously miscalculated our timings.

We arrived at Rob and Cheryl's and stopped for a chat and to pick up some things we had left there. It was then we realised that if we didn't leave by 3:30pm we would be driving in the dark. There aren't many options the way we were headed and we had decided on the Oasis Roadhouse which we had heard served cold beer and excellent burgers.

We jumped in the car and headed off for the 2 1/4 hour drive to the Lynd Junction, arriving just as the sun was starting to set. We managed to get the camper set up as the light faded. We had high hopes, but found the campground to be very disappointing. We camped in the unpowered section which was at the opposite end of the grounds from the amenities, meaning a very long walk to go to the loo. 

We ordered burgers and drinks and found a table on the deck to have our dinner. It was Rugby League State of Origin night so there were lots of people and the pre-game show was on the huge TV screen. My burger was OK but Mick's was overcooked - maybe even cooked and then reheated.

Celebrating a birthday with a cold beer

The following morning we agonised over whether we would be able to get to our next camp at Porcupine Gorge National Park. The Queensland Transport app showed the road open, GoogleMaps showed it as closed, our neighbours saw the closed signs the day before, the Queensland Transport website didn't show anything in the list view, but hazards were shown in the map view. So much for relying on a government department!

In the end I rang Etheridge Shire Council who confirmed that road was open, but had been closed for while the day before due to some flash flooding. With that information we were able to head off down the Kennedy Developmental Road, otherwise known as The Lynd. 

Cairns

14 - 18 June 2025

We left Etty Bay and decided to make our first stop Eubenangee Swamp just north of Innisfail. There is a walking track that meanders along the river before climbing to the top of a grassy hill for a view of the swamp - one of the most important wetlands in the Wet Tropics of Queensland. 

Fabulous views of the swamp after a bit of a climb

After our walk we decided that Bramston Beach would be a good spot for lunch as we were already half way there. We found a nice park where we had a picnic and then went for a short walk on the beach. 

We arrived in Cairns and set up at a caravan park that we have stayed at several times before. Although it is about 20 minutes from the Esplanade the grounds and adjacent creek have lured us back a number of times. Unfortunately the weather forecast had changed to include a day of very heavy rain.

On Sunday we drove to Catanna Wetlands and walked along many of the tracks. This is always a good spot for birding, and a lovely place to go for a stroll. There are a number of bird hides, as well as tracks around the lakes and through the grasslands. 

You know you're in Far North Queensland

We had chosen Cairns as our destination so I could attend a medical appointment which took up all of Monday morning, then it rained in the afternoon. On Tuesday, when some very heavy rainfall was forecast we decided to take a chance and go into town to visit the spot where an owl was likely to be seen, as well as to go to the Esplanade. We met up with a couple of local birders who were more than happy to share their knowledge of the owl's habits, including exactly where it would most likely be seen. It wasn't in residence that morning, but Mick was hopeful he might be able to spot it on a future visit.

As it was morning tea time, we drove down to the Esplanade for ice-creams at our favourity gellateria. From there we went for a bit of a walk and spotted a couple of Nankeen night-herons. Mick didn't have his camera so we had to walk back to the car to get it. Fortunately one of the birds was still there and happily obliged by posing to have it's photo taken.

The rain had held out and we were able to get out again in the afternoon to pick up some more supplies for our journey into western Queensland. We set off on Wednesday morning, which was Mick's birthday, with a plan to stay somewhere with a pub where we could have dinner and a couple of drinks to celebrate. 

We left the caravan park and before heading "up the hill" towards Kuranda, drove down to have a look for the owl again - and there it was, just waiting to have it's photo taken. Mick figured that was a good birthday present. From there we finally left Cairns, on our way to stop off in Ravenshoe.

Etty Bay

 12 - 14 June 2025

We chose to go to Etty Bay because we had the car booked in for a major repair at Toyota in Innisfail, and because of cassowaries. Mick has lots of photos of this magnificent bird, but he is always chasing the perfect shot. We left Atherton after lunch in the park and drove down the Palmerston Highway, arriving in Etty Bay mid-afternoon.

We pulled up at the caravan park reception and as I stepped out of the car, there was a cassowary only a couple of metres away from me. Naturally Mick grabbed the camera while I checked in. Eventually he was able to drag himself away long enough to set up camp.

The welcome cassowary

We realised there were two cassowaries active in and around the caravan park and beach and spent a lot of time trying to photograph them. One was more than happy to come right into our camp - looking for food. Feeding cassowaries is strictly forbidden, but that doesn't stop them helping themselves to whatever they can find.

On Friday morning we drove in to Innifail to drop the car off and pick up a hire car. On the way we saw a young cassowary on the side of the road  but didn't stop for photos. On the way home from Innisfail we drove down to Mourilyan Harbour for a look. There's not much to see, but we did see yet another cassowary on the side of the road on our way back. That made four for the trip - most times we have only seen one.

A spectacular moonrise was an added bonus

We were only going as far as Cairns then next day so took our time packing up, in between photograpy sessions. We left around 10:00 and headed north.

Yungaburra - Bonadio's RV Park

 8 - 12 June 2025

We spent our last morning in Ravenshoe finishing the packing and readying the spare bedroom for the next guest - a friend of Rob and Cheryl's who had travelled with them back from Karumba. We finally left after lunch and made our way over towards Atherton, still not sure which spot to choose for a 4 night stay. In the end, economics won out and we headed to Yungaburra to stay at Bonadio's again. We enjoyed our last visit and the price was much more reasonable that the "high season" charges at the caravan park in Atherton.

This time the park was quite full but we found a good spot in the lower section, facing the rainforest. Once again we went down for the animal feeding and this time, the leaf-tailed ghecko showed itself. Later we wandered about looking for night creatures and were rewarded with a green ringtail possum high up in the trees. We didn't get to see the platypus, mainly because we didn't try very hard.

We went to check on the progress made on our new home and had a talk to the neighbours. They have been working hard to clear weeds from the bush down by the creek, so it looks like we'll have a bit of a job to do when we finally move in. 

One evening we went down to the Curtain Fig tree to see if we could spot the Lesser Sooty owl, and again we heard it but didn't get to see it. It seemed to stay very still and quiet, and out of sight, until we turned off the torch then it would fly over. 

One afternoon we drove to Millaa Millaa Falls. Mick was hoping to get photos of a kingfisher but it didn't oblige. It was a nice afternoon out anyway.

Millaa Millaa Falls is a photographers' favourite

While we were at Bonadio's we had to have a gas leak repaired and also an upgrade to meet the new compliance regulations. Leon was happy to come to us and did the first part of the repair while we were at Bonadio's but he needed a part to finish the job. As it was our last morning there, he agreed to meet us in a park in Atherton to finish the job. That wouldn't happen in the city!

Once the gas job was done, we moved on to Platypus Park for lunch then drove down the Palmerston Highway to our next stop - Etty Bay.

Ravenshoe - House Sit

 30 May - 8 June 2025

We left Yungaburra to drive to Ravenshoe where we would be house sitting for a few weeks. We met Cheryl and Rob at Merluna Station on Cape York in 2024, and it turned out they might be looking for house sitters in the future. We exchanged contact details and stayed in touch catching up with them in Atherton, at their home in Ravenshoe and then  at Lake Cargelligo in western NSW. When we returned to the Atherton Tablelands we firmed up arrangements to look after their home, three sheep and Lexie the dog, so they could go on a caravanning trip. Unfortunately for them their plan to head south along the Birdsville Track was stymied by record rainfall which closed that route for many weeks. Fortunately for us, they changed their plans and headed off anyway.

It didn't take long to settle into a routine and to get to know the area. We've been visiting the Tablelands regularly but haven't spent much time in this part. On one excursion we went down to Tully Falls. There are two sections of Tully Gorge National Park - the Tablelands Section accessed from Ravenshoe and the Tully Section accessed from Tully. The road to Tully Falls is signposted to advise unwary travellers that it does not go to Tully township, and also that it is not suitable for caravans.

After days of rain we set off on a beautiful sunny day and arrived at the falls picnic area in time for morning tea. After marvelling at the view we headed off on the short rainforest walk, only to have to turn back when we came across a lot of vegetation that had fallen across the track. Although we probably could have crawed through, we were very wary of leeches after the recent rains, and also rainforest ticks.  

We've now visited both sections of Tully Gorge National Park

On our way back home we stopped at one of the creeks just because we could. There are a number of places to stop, and heaps of trailheads for some serious hikes in the area. We didn't go walking, but did stop to take some photos of the creek.

Charmillin Creek - one of many on the Tully Falls Road

On another day we took the car into Atherton for a service and spent the day visiting our usual spots - Lake Eacham, Lake Barrine and Hasties Swamp. It wasn't hard to fill in the day. We stopped at Hasties Swamp a couple of times on our way to and from Atherton and we lucky enough to spot the resident platypus one day. 

While we were staying in Ravenshoe we didn't do as much sight-seeing as we though we might - mainly because we just enjoyed having a "home" for a while. We took the opportunity to attend to some business in Atherton, as well as to do some repairs and maintenance on the camper trailer, including removing mould from the canvas, and re-waterproofing it. Having access to a large shed and tools made the jobs so much easier. It was also a real treat to have a "proper" kitchen for a while.

Autumn leaves in the yard

Nothing beats a drink by the fire on a cold night

After almost 6 weeks Rob and Cheryl returned from their travels and we packed up to leave. Our next week was planned out to fit in some medical appointments and also to have some repairs done to the car.

Yungaburra - Bonadio's RV Park

 28 - 30 April 2025

After our short stay in the Daintree we returned to the Atherton Tablelands. This time we decided to stay at a campground we had not been to before, but one which we had heard good things about. Bonadio's in on a working maize farm near Yungaburra, and has been continuously improved over the years. Initially it was for self-contained campers only, but they have added toilets, showers and laundry, a dump point and also now have powered sites. The campground in situated a short walk from the Barron River where playtpus may be seen. The campground itself is well maintained and each night there is possum feeding down at the camp shed. 

We stopped for lunch at our favourite Platypus Park and arrived in the early afternoon. We had called ahead to check that an early arrival would be ok so found our check-in form, and drove down to the campground where we were able to select our own site. We headed in to Atherton where Mick had an appointment then returned to camp to explore the walking paths by the river.

No platypus but still a lovely walk

Mick was keen to go to the Curtain Fig after dark to look for an owl that lives there so we set off after dinner. It was a very dark night and we were the only ones there for most of the time. Unfortunately we didn't get any photos of the owl, but we did hear it, and we saw it fly overhead. As we were leaving a small tour group arrived - maybe they were more successful.

On Tuesday we went shopping and re-organised things again ready for the next leg of our adventure. That evening we joined other guests at the shed to see the possums being fed. They were the cause of great delight - especially for a few international visitors who video called family "back home" to share the experience.

Possum feeding is always fun

We certainly enjoyed our brief stay at Bonadio's before heading on to Ravenshoe for our next house sit.

Daintree

 25 - 28 April 2025

We had been wanting to get down to the Daintree since we came north after leaving Townsville in July 2024 - but each time we looked, the weather forecast was for lots of rain. Finally there was a window of a few days with fine weather so we booked a site at the caravan park, and also a boat cruise.

We left Granite Gorge and drove north through Mount Molloy where we stopped briefly then continued on to Abattoir Swamp for morning tea and some birding. From there we drove down the Rex Range Road and on through Mossman, before stopping for lunch at Wonga Beach. We went for a walk on the beach then continued on to Daintree village.

A number of boat tours leave from the village boat ramp

We were able to select a good spot at the caravan park as they weren't busy, and set up for three days. Mick had booked a private boat charter for the following morning so we spent some time making sure we had everything ready for an early start. We considered dinner at the pub which is just across the road from the caravan park but decided against it when we found out it was a fundraising night - not because we didn't want to support the cause, but because we didn't want to be amongst a crowd. That's just us - we prefer quiet nights.

On Saturday morning we rose early and walked down to the boat ramp to meet our guide Alex. We hadn't been out with him  before so hoped he would be able to meet Mick's birding needs. He asked about target species and discussed his plan of attack. There are numerous boat tours on the Daintree River, with most focussed on crocodile spotting. Some also cater to birders, but going out on a private charter meant that we could spend as much time as needed to get the great shots. Alex was knowledgable and accommodating, and Mick managed to get some new species for his year list. 

It was a perfect morning on the river

We were back in time for morning tea, and then I headed into Mossman for lunch with my friend Liz who lives there. While I was away, Mick had a rest as he was to go out with Alex again in the afternoon on a scheduled tour. Most of the boats on the Daintree cater to an extra trip for free, if they have room so Mick enjoyed a second session, which was good but not as productive as the morning one.

On Sunday morning we decided to cross the river and head up into the national park. The Daintree Ferry now costs $49 per vehicle, return, so it can be an expensive exercise, but it's the best way to get to see  the ancient rainforest where it meets the reef. The alternative route is via the inland route and down the Bloomfield Track - not really viable as a day trip.

We left the caravan park fairly early and drove to the Daintree Ferry for the short trip across the river. The Daintree River area suffered significant damage incuding flooding following Cyclone Jasper in December 2024 and the after-effects are still visible, including major roadworks. We weren't in a hurry so it didn't bother us. We turned off to go to the Jindalba Boardwalk and Trail, but it was closed for repairs so we continued on to the ice cream factory. Famous for its tropical flavours we were a little underwhelmed by the offerings available that day. There were some tropical flavours, but only in a prepared cup with four varieties all together. Everything was already in cups with no opportunity to "mix and match". Despite this we did enjoy our chosen flavours - coconut and choc chip for me and chocolate for Mick.

From there we drove further north to the Marrdja Boardwalk. This one was open and meanders through lowland rainforest to a mangrove-lined creek. Of course we spent a fair bit of time there looking to photograph birds. We timed our departure well as a large tour group were just starting down the path as we were leaving. We then headed to Dubuji Boardwalk, which was also closed for repairs. We had hoped to have lunch there but the picnic area was also closed. We returned to Thornton Beach and had  lunch in one of the picnic areas there, before finishing with a short walk on the beach.

Thornton Beach - nice to walk on but definitely no swimming

We returned to the caravan park and had a quiet afternoon before heading out again to drive some of the back roads looking for birds. There were plenty of Rainbow bee eaters, but not much else. We decided that we would have dinner at the pub, and fortunately for us, it was pizza night and fairly quiet.

We were up early to set off back to the Atherton Tablelands so that Mick could keep an appointment he had in the afternoon. We left in plenty of time to include a short stop at Abattoir Swamp for morning tea.

Granite Gorge

 23 - 25 April 2025

Back on the road after three weeks house sitting we were keen to head to the coast, but the weather was against us once more, with lots of rain forecast for the next day, so we made up our minds to have a night at Granite Gorge. West of Mareeba, it's in dry country so doesn't get the sort of rainfall seen on the coast or other parts of the Tablelands. 

Driving towards the nature park we noticed that the area was condiserably greener than usual. We checked in and selected a spot before settling in for an afternoon of reorganising things in the camper trailer. We went for a walk in the late afternoon to see the Mareeba Rock Wallabies that make the gorge their home. The population looked a little healthier than the last time we visited, and there were a number of young ones hopping about.

Bags of wallaby food
are available to purchase,
making them quite friendly

The following morning we checked the weather forecast and saw that there was more rain on the coast so decided to delay our departure by one day. The caravan park wasn't busy so there was no problem to extend. Later in the day we drove in to Mareeba to pick up a few things and also to cast our Interstate Absentee votes in the Federal election. Back at camp and we finished our reorganising and again went for a walk in the gorge. 

We needed to set off the following morning as we had a booking at Daintree Village, so we were glad to see the forecast for the next few days was for clear skies. We left Granite Gorge and headed towards Mount Molloy, and then down to the coast.

Lake Eacham - House Sit

 3 - 23 April 2025

When we first started out on this latest journey we considered the possibility of doing some house sitting while we waited for our house to be built. We registered with a well-known company and received a number of responses. Unfortunately none were suitable in terms of location and/or dates, until we found a homeowner ad for a three week sit at Lake Eacham at about the time we figured we would be back in the north.

We made contact and were eventually accepted, met with Frank and Pauline to go over logistics and receive all the information we would need. We moved over from Atherton and set about establishing a routine which included looking after a small flock of chickens, as well as a geriatric cow. Most house sits include a dog, so we were more than happy to have a cow instead. Circe didn't take much looking after - just some hay in the afternoon and check she had access to water.

Early morning fog 

Being at Lake Eacham we were central to most places we like to visit so were able to get out and about in the mornings, and be home to let the chooks out to free-range after lunch. We went for a couple of walks around Lake Eacham itself as well as Lake Barrine. We also took another drive out to Mount Hypipamee crater as well as numerous visits to Hasties Swamp.

One morning we set off early for a birding and shopping trip to Cairns. We drove down the Gillies Highway and visited a number of special spots including the turf farm near Gordonvale and the boat ramp on the eastern side of Trinity Inlet. Mick was chasing some new birds and he scored 2 out of the 3 he was after. From Gordonvale we headed into Cairns to pick up some new camping gear and then went down to the Espanade for lunch and a walk. By then it was time to return "home" to tend to the animals.

We had three weeks at the house sit and enjoyed the luxury of a proper home for that time. It gave us the chance to get some life admin done, and to be out of the rain for a while. On our last day, we packed up ready to go once the homeowners returned from their early morning flight into Cairns. We had a bit of a plan for the next week, but still had some decisions to make. We made Atherton our first stop, to pick up supplies and some odds and ends, then headed towards Mareeba.

Atherton

 23 March - 2 April 2025

Before we left Cairns to return "home" to the Atherton Tablelands, we made one last visit to the Esplanade in search of birds, then packed up and were on our way. We made the usual stop in Kuranda for a walk around and a coffee, before continuing on to Atherton.

We checked in to the caravan park close to town, where we have stayed a few times. It is one of the best kept caravan parks we have visited and the bonus is that there is lots of birdlife around. The down side was that the rain we had been experiencing for more than two weeks, was forecast to continue. With that in mind we chose a site with a slab, close to the amenities.

We had originally planned to stay for three nights but decided we might as well stay for the ten days we had left before our house sitting commitment in Lake Eacham. We were glad we did as the rain continued on and off for the whole time, including a couple of nasty thunderstorms. There was significant rain across most of the state so we couldn't have escaped it anyway.

Lake Eacham has long been a favourite spot

We did all the usual things while we were in Atherton - Hasties Swamp, Petersen Creek, Mount Hypipamee Crater, a walk around Lake Eacham, and this time we went on the cruise around Lake Barrine. The Lake Barrine Tea House had a special on the cruise - free for over 65s in April so we took advantage and were very pleased we did. We've been on this tour a number of times and each time the guide had told us about the resident python that is "usually over there", but not when we've been there. This time there were four pythons spotted! Success at last!

Dinner Falls in Mt Hypipamee NP

Lake Barrine Teahouse seen from the cruise

We were lucky that on our final morning in Atherton the sun was shining after a very loud and heavy thunderstorm overnight. We were able to get the canvas mostly dry before packing up, knowing that we would be able to open the camper trailer once we were settled in at the house sit.

Cairns

 21 - 23 March 2025

North Queensland has had much more rain than is usual for a wet season and Townsville and Ingham seem to have received most of it. We waited anxiously for the Bruce Highway north of Ingham to reopen and set off as soon as we could. We were aware that with even a small amount of extra rain the road could be closed again.

We decided to scrap our plans to stay at Mission Beach as they were in for a heap of rain too, and instead headed straight for Cairns. We made it through Ingham and could see that the water was only just below the level of the road when we passed the Seymour River which flows into the Hinchinbrook Channel from the Herbert River. There was so much water around!

We stopped in Cardwell for lunch as has become our tradition and then continued on to Cairns. This time we chose a caravan park quite close to The Esplanade so Mick could get down to do some birding. Although we thought about heading to his favourite birding spot as soon as we were set up, it was getting quite late, and we were both exhausted after a long and busy day.

Blue skies at last - for a short while anyway

We did managed to get to a few spots for some bird photography the following day, including the Cairns Cemetery, which was only a block away, as well as the Botanic Gardens and, of course, The Esplanade. We revisited The Esplanade on Sunday morning before returning to the Caravan Park to pack up and finally make our way to the Atherton Tablelands.

Townsville - Mick and Laurie's

 20 - 21 March 2025

After 4 rainy days at Airlie Beach, it was finally dry enough to pack up and move on. As Mick was winding up the campper, he noticed the winch strap had almost torn through so that was another repair we would have to get done. We were headed to Townsville so were hopeful we could get that done, and also get some of the pinchweld needed to reseal the storage hatch.

Caravan park in Airlie Beach was so green

Townsville, and other parts of North Queensland had experienced another massive downpour of rain - over 200mm - so we were glad we had stayed further south for a few days - but there was more to come, and the Bruce Highway was closed north of Ingham, again. We drove from Airlie Beach and stopped in Bowen for lunch where it was just starting to rain. 

We continued on to Townsville and went straight to Clark Rubber to get the seal, then on to Mick and Laurie's. We had driven through some very heavy rain, but it had eased off by the time we reached our destination. Not long after arriving and getting settled, the rain bucketed down again and continued through most of the night. We were very grateful to be staying with friends and not camping in that weather.

On Friday morning, we checked and the road was still closed so we set about finding someone to repair the winch strap. I took the strap to Beehive Canvas who had said they would be able to do it straight away. The job only took a few minutes and they only charged a few dollars. Getting that job done meant we could get back on the road as soon as we were able. While I was out Mick replaced the seal, and I visited friends Wendy and Jay. While I was on the way to their place, I heard on the radio that the highway had reopened.

Back at Mick and Laurie's we had morning tea, packed up and said our farewells. We decided we'd go straight to Cairns as we were getting close to the time we had arranged to meet the people we would be house sitting for in April. 

Airlie Beach

 16 - 20 March 2025

We drove down from Eungella and stopped in Proserpine briefly before heading to Airlie Beach. Fortunately there was no rain around when we arrived so we were able to set about drying everything off again. We had more water in under the bed which Mick suspected was due to a seal on the side hatch not working as it should. Once again we pulled everything out and hung things up to dry. 

The rain held off for a while, but there was lots more forecast. We still had an old side wall / wind break from a car awning we used to have so we rigged it up to provide some extra protection on that side of the camper, while relying on the awning on the other. We crossed our fingers and hoped it would work.

We had a couple of days without too much rain and we were able to get out and do some shopping and to also go for a walk along the beach - with some birding added in for interest. We drove to Shute Harbour but moved on when we realised we would have to pay to park - even just to have a short stop at the lookout. We called in to a short walk in the rainforest in Conway National Park but didn't get far due to the very boggy track.

More grey skies

Most of the rain fell overnight, but that meant the canvas would be wet when we packed up if we stayed the three days we had planned, so we decided to watch the weather and make up our minds on a day by day basis. The caravan park staff were very happy to accommodate our needs, we just needed to them know by midday if we intended to stay. We booked an extra night and hoped for the best as the forecast suggested Thursday might not be too wet.

There was very little rain overnight on Wednesday and the sun was trying to poke through the clouds on Thursday morning. We did a bit of organising, and by morning tea time, the canvas was dry enough to be able to start packing up. We left Airlie Beach around 11:00 and started the journey to Townsville where we had arranged to spend the night with friends.

Eungella National Park - Broken River Bush Camp

 13 - 16 March 2025

We knew there was rain forecast for Eungella - but it is in the rainforest so we figured that would be part of the adventure. The sky was overcast but there was no rain until we stopped at Finch Hatton to pick up some milk. Milk had been hard to get since Tropical Cyclone wreaked havoc further south, but we didn't expect there to be none in Mackay supermarkets. Thankfully, the small general store in the Pioneer Valley had plenty.

It started to rain while we were stopped and continued all the way up the range to Eungella. It was still raining when we set the camper trailer up. We were very thankful to have a couple of good raincoats! We set up as best we could and settled in to enjoy the view of the creek at the rear of the campsite. Broken River is well known for platypus and we were hoping to get to see some, but we were really there for the birds.

Our home  for three nights

Because of the almost constant drizzle, we didn't do as much walking in the forest as we had hoped. We did manage to get out to the various platypus viewing spots a number of times between showers and were well rewarded. We also visited the cafe adjacent to the National Park office for morning tea. 

We saw at least one platypus!

On Friday afternoon we went for a drive down Dalrymple Road to a well-known spot where Eungella honeyeaters are found - and were in luck. The sky was grey, and there was some rain, but Mick did manage to get some photos. We rewarded ourselves with a drink at The Chalet - the local pub which had great views down through the valley.

Friday drinks with a view

On Saturday morning we went for another drive in search of birds - this time on the Crediton Loop Road. This one wasn't quite as successful, but helped to pass the time. There is no phone or internet reception at the campground so we drove up to Sky Window - a lookout - a couple of times each day to check the weather (hoping the forecast had miraculously changed - it hadn't). 

While we were at Eungella we had success with trapping our mouse. The first night, he took the bait and got stuck in the little house but managed to escape while Mick was trying to work out if he was in there! We set the trap again the next night, and I picked it up in the morning. I could feel that it was warm so we took it with us a long way from camp and released him in the bush. Hopefully there was only one - only time will tell.

We had no choice on our last morning than to pack up while everything was still wet. We managed to get the bulk done between showers of rain, before setting off back down the range to Airlie Beach - where there was the promise of even more rain!

Mackay - Blacks Beach

11 - 13 March 2025

We had stopped in Sarina and booked a couple of nights in Mackay at Blacks Beach and were looking forward to another nice beachside spot. Although there was rain forecast the sky was clear when we arrived and I was able to get some washing done. We had also discovered that water had managed to get in under the bed again so we had to take everything out and dry it off. We figured it must have been when we were caught in the really heavy, driving rain at Moore Park Beach.

We could see more rain out to sea

The weather was hot, and there were a couple of showers of rain but otherwise we enjoyed a fairly relaxing stay which included a number of dips in the pool at the caravan park. We walked along the beach a couple of times as well. We also went shopping for the next few days which would be spent at Eungella, camping in the national park.

We had suspected for some time - as far back as the NSW south coast - that we might have had a mouse in the camper trailer. We had bought traps and left them for a few days with no result so decided that we must have been mistaken. We discovered that our mouse had managed to get into the car and was happily feasting on packaged pantry items! We set more traps and the sneaky little thing was able to eat the peanut butter without setting of the trap. After purchasing some new plastic containers to secure the few packaged items we had left, we planned to stop at Bunnings on the way out of Mackay and buy some different traps - the ones that catch the mouse in a little house.

The day we packed up to drive up to Eungella the weather forecast was for rain - and quite a lot over the next few days, but we were committed so headed off anyway, stopping to pick up some more mouse traps - hopefully ones that would outsmart our hungry passenger.

Clairview

 10 - 11 March 2025

Having successfully negotiated some very wet roads leaving Moore Park, we were unsure again about our next destination. We had flagged a farmstay just south of Rockhampton as a possibility so that Mick could go in search of an elusive Chat on the Port Alma access road so set the GPS and set off again.

We stopped in Miriam Vale and had lunch then continued on. We stopped again in Mount Larcom where I called ahead to check they had availability but didn't book as there was still a lot of rain about. We decided to drive out along the Port Alma access road to assess whether we would be able to get to the likely spots - and we had to turn around as the road was flooded. Lucky we hadn't booked the farmstay.

We decided to press on, and after refuelling in Rockhampton, figured we could make it to Clairview. We'd stayed there in a cabin a number of years ago and weren't really impressed but there aren't may options so we thought we'd give it another try.

We arrived and checked in - opting for an unpowered site. The sky was clear so we were hopeful we could at least get the canvas dry overnight. We were able to select our own site and ended up with a great view of the beach with no-one nearby. There were heaps of caravans crammed in to the ocean-front powered sites, but only a few in the expansive unpowered section. Staying in this part of the caravan park we were starting to see why so many people love the place.

We enjoyed a walk along the beach
to the creek mouth

After a breezy, dry night we packed up before an incoming shower of rain arrived and then went for a walk along the beach, and a good look for birds as well. We headed off and stopped in Sarina for a free cuppa at the Visitor Information Centre where we made up our minds to stay at Mackay for the next couple of days.

Moore Park Beach

 8 - 10 March 2025

We waited anxiously, with everyone else in South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales, to see what Tropical Cyclone Alfred would do. By Saturday morning, the cyclone was downgraded to a Tropical Low and was impacting areas from the Sunshine Coast to Coffs Harbour with heavy rainfall and damaging winds. It was time to go north and away from the area, and hopefully, to some better weather.

We left Chinchilla with a bit of a plan - maybe Childers or Moore Park Beach. Along the way we stopped for a cuppa at Proston and then continued on. We stopped for lunch at Ban Ban Springs and then made the decision to go to Moore Park Beach. There was rain forecast, but there was everywhere anyway.

After picking up some supplies in Gin Gin, we booked a site at and made our way to Moore Park Beach for two nights, maybe three, depending on the weather. We were given a nice site just back from the beach. We walked on the beach and explored the nearby "Duckpond". Mick was pleased to see a few new birds for the trip. There was a bit of rain overnight, but nothing to worry about. 

The weather was good when we arrived
but soon turned nasty

We spent the morning again walking along the beach and the checking out the pond, when the weather forecast turned nasty - potential severe thunderstorms. We managed to stay mostly out of the rain during the afternoon but our plan to walk to the local Bowling Club for dinner turned into a short drive there. It was raining quite heavily when we returned, but still not too drastic.

During the night, however, the storm raged - and the wind blew the rain straight at the side of the trailer tent. We didn't realise at the time, but it was so strong that water was coming in through the window zippers. We woke, after a somewhat sleepless night, to water all through the inside of the camper and all we could do was lay down towels to try to soak some of it up, as it was still raining heavily. We knew we would have to pack up and leave for somewhere drier and fortunately there was a short break in the weather during which we readied ourselves to leave.

We had received an email from the park management regarding possible flooding on the road to Bundaberg, but weren't sure what that meant to us as we were heading north. We called into the office and a fellow camper who had left a about 1/2 hour before us had called to say she had driven through without any issue. We hoped that it would be the same for us as, if the road was flooded, the was no other way out.

There was heaps of water around, with many spots where there was water across part of the road, so we took it easy. There was one creek causeway that had water over it, but it was only a few centimetres deep, so still safe to cross. We made it into Gin Gin without incident and stopped to shop again before going north along the Bruce Highway.