Wugudaji - Adels Grove

 2 - 5 July 2025

We wanted to return to Boodjamulla - Lawn Hill Gorge but the national park has been closed since floods devestated the area in early 2023. I've been checking the website regularly and the re-opening date kept being pushed back. We usually stay at Adels Grove before or after a visit to Boodjamulla so we decided to go and stay a few nights anyway. About a week before, we saw a notice advising that the national park would be opening to day visitors from 4 July so we would be able to drive in, even though we couldn't stay. For once our timing was perfect.

We left Riversleigh D site and stopped to collect firewood along the 45km drive to Adels Grove, where we settled onto a site in the top camping area on the edge of "the grove". Sites in this section are marked but not allocated and allow for a bit more sunshine which we needed to keep the solar going over our three day stay. There are no powered sites at Adels Grove but the site we chose did have a make-shift fire pit which we would put to use.

Mick spent quite a lot of time walking down by the river looking to photograph birds and was well rewarded. The river looks quite different after such a huge flood - with massive log-jams in several places. The little beach where we swam with the girls on our first visit has been completely washed away and you can't walk as far along the river. 

This is what a big flood can do

The fire pit on our camping site was messy and overgrown so Mick spent the afternoon tidying it up ready to have a fire in the evenings. On our second night we cooked a chicken and some vegetables in the camp oven for dinner. It was going to be a cold night again so we looked forward to being able to sit by the fire. Dinner was cooked to perfection! 

Camp oven dinner - perfect on a cold night

We were keen to drive into the national park on the morning it reopened, so packed up a picnic and headed off after breakfast. The road from Adels Grove to the park entrance is now bitumen - it used to be the worst section of gravel on the whole drive from Gregory. We knew the only walk available was Constance Range hike but we weren't keen to do that as it's quite long and strenuous. Swimming in Lawn Hill Creek was still possible and kayaks were available to hire.

We arrived to find quiet a few others had the same idea and we chatted with lots of people as we wandered around. We were fortunate to be able to talk with one of the park rangers who let us know a bit more about the flood recovery work that had been done, and what was still to do. The office has been re-instated but there is no visitor centre yet. The campground is yet to be rehabilitated and the waste treatment plant is still not up and running properly so camping is limited to small tour groups. The staff accommodation has had new kitchens and bathrooms but most of the paved pathways have been washed away and have not yet been replaced. It's been a massive job to get the park to this stage and there is still so much work to be done. Camping should be open to the general public in October, but by then it will be too hot for us.

Boodjamulla - still one of my favourite places

We didn't swim because it was a bit too cool and we didn't see anyone else in the water either. Those hiring kayaks could paddle to Indarri Falls but the platform where you could previously stop, rest and have a swim is not there any more. The walks to the falls, and other walks are yet to be reinstated.

In the end we didn't stay long. While it was fascinating to see the changes and great to talk to the rangers, once we'd walked as far as we could along the river, there wasn't much else for us to do so we headed back to Adels Grove. We took a short detour back along the Riversleigh road to collect some more firewood. This time we were planning to cook potatoes in foil on the coals - and once again, delicious!

We had booked to stay in Karumba so had a huge drive ahead of us the next day so did as much packing and organising as we could so that we could get away early. We managed to leave by about 8:30am and headed towards Gregory. It was an unusually foggy morning which slowed us down a bit but we made it into Gregory in time for morning tea. We also fuelled up as the price was lower than at Burke and Wills roadhouse which is on the main road back to Karumba.

Boodjamulla National Park (Riversleigh Section) - Miyumba Campground

 1 - 2 July 2025

I had wanted to go to Riversleigh Fossil Site for many years, and had even tried to book a tour once, but we had yet to organise a visit. This time we were able to include it in our plans to head towards the Gulf of Carpentaria. We packed up and left Mount Isa, and drove north-west along the Barkly Highway until we reached the turn-off that would take us to the Gregory Downs - Camooweal Road. We stopped for a cuppa at a rest area and then continued on. We joined the Gregory Downs - Camooweal Road and were surprised that the bitumen went further than we had expected. It didn't last too long though and we soon had to stop to let some air out of the tyres.

Even though GoogleMaps plots a course that goes all the way to Gregory, we knew there was a turn-off that would take us direct to Riversleigh. It was well sign-posted but there was a temporary sign indicating "road closed". I had checked that morning and there was no indication online that the road was not open so we decided to continue, knowing we might have to turn around as some stage. Not far along we stopped a mine vehicle coming towards us and the driver confirmed that vehicles were getting through. We did come across some new bitumen works, and surmised that the road may have been closed for a short time while it was being laid. As sometimes happens in remote locations, no-one had bothered to remove the sign.

We continued on and crossed several creeks with runnning water. We stopped by the side of the road near one to have a quick picnic lunch and then drove on. We were quite surprised at the amount of water flowing across the causeway at the Gregory River. We were also able to see the effects of recent floods. We missed the entrance into the campground and stopped when we reached the Riversleigh World Heritage Site. As we planned to stop on our way through the following morning we didn't linger, instead heading back the few kilometres to the campground. 

Gregory River crossing south of Miyumba

When booking to camp at Miyumba Campground you don't book an actual site so you can choose the one that suits you once you arrive. We chose a nice big site that would give us some shade, and also some sun for the solar. We had discovered the Anderson plug which provides power to the camper trailer batteries while driving, had been broken on the rough road so getting some solar in was essential.

We went for a walk down to the Gregory River which is nearby and Mick spent some time looking for birds. It wasn't very productive but Miyumba Campground was still a nice spot to spend a night. There was only one other camper there at the time which made for a very peaceful evening.

The following morning Mick walked back to the river, and repaired that broken Anderson plug before we set off to explore Riversleigh D Site. This is the only site open to the public, with interpretive information and a walk that winds up a hill and back down again. Many of the fossils are labelled but a careful look as you walk, reveals so many more. D Site was one of the first sites to be discovered at Riversleigh, and contains 25 million year old fossils of turtles, fish, snails, crocodiles, lizards, pythons, birds, as well as many different types of mammal. 

Fabulous views of the area
from the top of the hill - and there's fossils

After our walk around the site, we had lunch then continued on towards Adels Grove. 

Mount Isa

 30 June - 1 July 2025

Neither of us really wanted to stay in Mount Isa but it seemed like the best option for an overnighter so we headed west from Mary Kathleen. Before making our final decision we drove out to Lake Moondara and had morning tea there. There are lovely picnic areas with toilets and showers as well at the lake, and lots to explore if you wanted to spend some time there.

Finally deciding to stay, we headed back to the nearby caravan park and settled in to get some jobs done and to restock before going into some smaller, less well resourced places. We did some washing and then went in to town for groceries and fuel. We repacked and tidied the car and then booked our next stay in a National Park.

Before we left we refilled the water tank and checked that the road we would travel on was open - it was - and set off around 9:30, bound for Miyumba Campground in the Riversleigh section of Boodjamulla National Park.

A roadside stop on the way to Riversleigh

Mary Kathleen

 29 - 30 June 2025

We left Cloncurry after visiting the Sunday markets and headed west again towards Mary Kathleen. We weren't sure whether we would stay there or not as there are no facilities at all. Instead, we thought we might return to camp at Clem Walton Park where there are toilets and a lovely creek, and drive to Mary Kathleen later in the afternoon. We've stayed at Clem Walton Park on a few earlier trips and it's a nice spot to camp for a couple of days.

On the way we stopped at Chinaman Dam - another good birding spot - to have some morning tea. The water level there was evidence of a bumper wet season. Throughout our recent travels we have noticed how green the countryside was compared to previous years, and that many rivers and creeks were flowing.

Further west we turned off the highway and took the road down to Clem Walton park - but it was in dreadful condition and we definitely didn't want to be driving in and out to Mary Kathleen. We stayed and had lunch in the picnic area but the place didn't feel quite the same, with an old guy who had set up a permanent camp right in the middle of the camping area. He probably wasn't causing any harm but combined with the state of the road we made the decision to move on.

We drove back out to the highway and on to the old Mary Kathleen town site. The former uranium mine closed in 1982 but the town site remains, minus all the buildings. It is on private property where camping is permitted. From the town site it is a short (in distance) drive to the mine site. We drove in to the campground and saw that there were lots of people camped, but still heaps of room. With a cold night forecast we drove back out to the highway to collect some firewood a few kilometres away. 

Lots of other campers but still heaps of room

Back to the campsite we chose a nice spot with a makeshift firepit that would do us nicely. Of course we were there for the birds, so later in the afternoon we drove out to the minesite. The road was rough but not as bad as the one into Clem Walton Park. We walked up to the abandoned open pit which is now filled with water. When the sun is right above the water is a beautiful shade of turquoise but late in the day is not so spectacular. Mick spent some time, unsuccessfully, searching for birds before returning to camp.

Who would have thought an old uranium mine pit
could look so pretty?

We had dinner by the fire and an early night. We weren't in a particular hurry to leave in the morning as we were only going as far as Mount Isa. Once packed up we headed west and on to our next destination.

Cloncurry

 28 - 29 June 2025

We had decided to have a night at the old Mary Kathleen town site - for the birding of course. We headed off from Boulia after another walk along the river and stopped at Dajarra for lunch. From there we took the turn-off to Duchess which would have us on mostly gravel roads, but would be a bit shorter than going through Mount Isa.

When we rejoined the Flinders Highway we made a quick decision to head east the short distance to Cloncurry instead of west to Mary Kathleen. It was our 40th wedding anniversary the following day and we thought a pub meal and a night in a motel would be a nice way to celebrate, given our remote location.

We drove around town and selected a motel that was walking distance from a couple of pubs and settled in. We were able to do a load of washing which was a bonus. I had a bottle of prosecco chilled and we had a couple of drinks before setting off to find a pub for dinner. The one we chose was quite crowded - which is always a good sign. The meal and service were very good.

The following morning we headed off to do some grocery shopping and then to the Visitor Information Centre where there was a market. We had a bit of a look around and walked up to the lookout which provided some great views of the area. From there we headed west towards Mary Kathleen.

Fossils on display at the Visitor Centre in Cloncurry

Boulia

 26 - 28 June 2025

After an early start we returned to Lark Quarry for another serach for the Opalton grasswren before setting off towards Boulia. We plotted a course that would take us along some minor roads, goimg via Old Cork. The roads were in surprisingly good condition and we only took one wrong turn. Fortunately we reaslised before we had gone too far and were able to back-track to get ourselves on the right road.

We eventually rejoined the Kennedy Developmental Road and stopped at a rest area to have some lunch, the continued on to Boulia. We checked in to the caravan park and chose a nice shady spot by the Burke River. There was a lot more water in the river than there had been on our last couple of visits.

Late afternoon by the Burke River

This photo shows the same river in 2017 -
such a contrast!

Mick had a birding spot to check out so headed off for an early morning session, while I did some packing up. When he returned we decided to spend an extra day so unpacked again. We both went out in the afternoon but the target birds proved to be elusive. 

We took the opportunity to do some restocking while we were in "town" and also walked down by the river, making this a very pleasant and convenient place to stay. 

After a bit of deliberation we decided to head towards Mary Kathleen via Dajarra - but changed our minds along the way.

Little Jack - near Lark Quarry

 25 - 26 June 2025

We left Opalton and set off for Lark Quarry. We had checked the map and discovered we could cut across country rather than going back into Winton, which made for a much shorter journey. After a short stop for lunch along the way, and a spot of birding, we arrived just on 1:00pm. Bronwyn and John were still there having taken part in the 11:00am tour. They were having some lunch before setting off on one of the harder walks. We treated ourselves to an ice cream and walked up to the lookout. We spent some time looking at the information displays in the visitor centre while we waited for our tour.

The building protects the precious trackway

As luck would have it we were the only two people booked in for 2:00pm so we had a truly personalised tour. Once again, our guide was knowledgeable and we found it fascinating. The trackway has not been fully excavated so no-one knows what else might be hidden.

Big footprints amongst the little one

After time at the Trackway we set off to do some birding down near the airstrip and Telstra tower before continuing on to find where Bronwyn and John had camped for the night. They had sent their location in "what three words" format so, apart from initially missing the turnoff, it was quite easy to locate them.

Little Jack is a free camp in the true sense of the term - nothing there, just a clearing in the bush. We arrived just as the sun went down, so set up quickly and used the last of the timber we collected the day before to start a fire. After some drinks by the fire, we had an easy dinner from the freezer  and an early night.

We made a snap decision in the morning to get up early, pack up and go back to Lark Quarry for one last attempt to photograph the Opalton grasswren. We packed up as quietly as we could, but still woke the others. We said our goodbyes and headed off. We were going to take the Old Cork Road that is just north of Lark Quarry so it wasn't too far out of the way to go back.