Half way up the Cape

2 May 2016

After more than two months at home - with short trips to Cairns and Sydney - we were almost ready to hit the road again. We've added a few things to the camper trailer - a pole carrier and extra battery - and had air bag suspension fitted to the Prado, but there are still a few more things to add somewhere in the future.

This was the first time setting off from home in the Cub. We collected it in Sydney in October last year and travelled through New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia before putting it in storage while we spent 7 weeks in Tasmania. We then picked it up and headed back up the coast through Victoria, NSW and home to Queensland. 

This trip was only a short one and would take us "up the cape". We planned to go part the way up Cape York Peninsular. It was still early in the dry season so we weren't sure what the roads would be like. Even though there hasn't been much of a wet season, some places have received reasonable rains. We planned to travel through the Atherton Tablelands, back to the coast and on to Daintree, then along the Bloomfield Track to Cooktown. From there we would head through Laura and on to Artemis Station for some serious bird photography. Mick has a new camera and a couple of new gadgets he wants to try out.

Malanda

3 - 5 May 2016

We hoped to leave home by about 9.30 as we had a couple of jobs to do that had to wait until businesses opened. Well, that was the plan anyway, but we had our first “problem” for the trip while we were still at home. The pin that connects the larger pin that connects the trailer to the tow-hitch and car, was nowhere to be found. We searched everywhere and in the end Mick went and bought a new one. Fortunately there is a caravan place about 5 minutes from home so it didn’t take too long. We managed to drive off about 10:00am. Not bad considering.

We headed north and stopped for take away coffee at the Frosty Mango, at Crystal Creek. This is a popular spot with travellers. They do sell lots of tropical fruit and fruit products like ice-cream and jams. We continued on through Ingham with the obligatory stop at the op shop, the through Cardwell to Bilyana for lunch. There is a nice rest area with sheltered picnic tables and toilets and easy parking. We have stopped there quite a few times. It was while we were there that we noticed problem number two for the day - there was no power to the fridge. That could be a big problem! We had just had a second battery fitted to the camper trailer to extend the time we could stay out of powered sites. We hoped that the problem with the fridge wasn’t anything to do with that. There was nothing we could do about it at that stage so we continued northward and up the Palmerston Highway towards the Atherton Tablelands.

We reached Malanda by mid-afternoon and checked into a powered site right on the edge of the rainforest. Malanda Falls Caravan Park is not flashy but it beautifully located on the edge of the rainforest that surrounds the Malanda Falls. From our campsite we could hear the water. Such a lovely sound.

The ubiquitous Brush Turkey.

Grey-headed Robin.

Mick had a look at the electrics and discovered that the reason we had no power to the fridge was a blown fuse so that was easily fixed – a packet of 5 for $3 from the servo down the road has us back in business in no time. We still don’t know why the fuse blew though….

The evening was pleasantly cool and we returned to “camping mode” and had an early night.

In the morning we set off for another favourite “must do” spot – Hastie’s Swamp. We have been visiting this local wetland for many years and it’s always worth a visit. There is a bird hide – with two levels, and a toilet. It always seems well maintained.

Australasian Grebe.

Intermediate Egret

Intermediate Egret

Marsh Harrier a long way off.

A Whistling Kite.

A single Plumed Whistling Duck with two Wandering Whistling Ducks.

After a while in the hide, we headed into Atherton for some supplies and to visit the op-shops. This was a bit of a challenge as two of them have relocated since we last visited. On to Yungaburra, and a visit to the Curtain Fig Tree, then back to Malanda for some supermarket shopping. We called into the Post Office to buy the new release stamp pack – Beautiful Butterflies. Mick’s photo of a Blue Triangle was chosen for one of the stamps, and another features in the stamp pack. It appears on other stamp merchandise as well, but they didn’t have anything else in Malanda. We’ll have to visit a bigger post office.

After another cool night (such a relief from the heat we had been experiencing on the coast) we started to pack up ready to leave and discovered yet another problem. This time it appeared the battery charger was not working. We really were wondering if the auto electrician who installed the extra battery for us had done something wrong. We decided to move on and try to work out what was wrong later.

We made our first stop in Mareeba to visit the couple of op-shops and then Mount Molloy where there is an interesting second hand shop. We made our lunch stop at Abattoir Swamp. Unfortunately the boardwalk to the bird hide was still under repair – as it has been on our last two or three visits going back 2 years. Hopefully they will get it finished soon.

Daintree Village

5 – 7 May 2016

We drove down the Rex Range and on to Daintree Village where we checked into the caravan park. We called Cub to find out what we could do about the battery charger and were able to establish that the solar would work and we could run 240 volt power - we just couldn't charge the batteries from 240 volt. When we return to Townsville the camper trailer will have to go to a repairer to get the problem sorted - hopefully it will be a warranty job.

Daintree village is a great place for butterflies.

We took a short wander around the (very small) village then went for a drive in search of birds to photograph. We went out along Stewart Road to a couple of spots we had been before but the rainbow bee-eaters on the fences wouldn’t sit still, and any chance of getting near birds along the creek banks was thwarted by squadrons of mosquitoes!

I finally got this young one to sit still.

It rained on and off during the afternoon and evening which had us a little worried for the boat trip we had booked for Friday morning.

We had to get up very early for the river cruise, but it was worth it. The sky had some ominous clouds, but was mostly clear. A couple of showers didn’t last long and we enjoyed a couple of hours on the river with an experienced guide. Mick was even invited to return for the afternoon trip, as a guest.

Overcast on the Daintree River. We did get rain a couple of times.

A Striated Heron waits for breakfast to swim by.

Female Black-necked Stork.

The first bird seen on  the cruise was an Azure Kingfisher.

Great-billed Heron in breeding plumage.

After our boat ride we had morning tea then set off back towards Mossman, to the farm where they grow the sugar cane and cocao to make their own 100% Australian made chocolate. The farm shop stocks lots of varieties of chocolate as well as other local produce. On to Mossman to check out the op-shops and have lunch, then back to Daintree. Mick set off for the afternoon boat trip and returned at dinner time. As it was my birthday we shouted ourselves dinner at the pub. Small menu (as expected) but good food and friendly service.

We both went out again on the wildlife boat trip in the morning, but again the bird life was very limited and we did get rained on in a serious way. Because of the rain, which looked like it might have been quite widespread, we changed our plan to drive north to Cooktown via the Bloomfield Track and instead headed inland, via the Rex Range to Mount Molloy, Mount Carbine and Lakeland, arriving in Cooktown early in the afternoon.

On our last cruise we saw a few crocodiles, this one was quite large.

Cooktown

7 – 9 May 2016

We stopped for lunch at Lakeland in the small park opposite the Coffee House. There are toilets at shop, a small caravan park, a pub and not much else. We arrived in Cooktown and found a spot in a nice caravan park, then went to explore the town a little. Being Saturday afternoon, there wasn’t much open so we returned to the caravan park for a very welcome swim. Even though it was coming towards the end of autumn, it was very hot and humid.

This Papuan Frogmouth is resident at the caravan park.

On Sunday morning we set off for a day of serious bird hunting. First stop, Keating’s Lagoon. Only 5 kms out of town on the Mulligan Highway this is a lovely spot with a bird hide and an easy walk to the nice picnic area. We spent an hour there then headed towards Hope Vale in search of the coastal heathlands and the promised bird opportunities. The information we had was patchy and not very specific and we found we had to drive a fair way beyond Hope Vale towards Elim (Beach) before we started to see the sort of country we were after – and without the promised birds.

Keating’s Lagoon. Great looking place but not many birds around.

A female Shining Flycatcher seen on our walk.

The sound of the wet tropics...Yellow Orioles called all day but were very hard to photograph.

A new tick! White-streaked Honeyeater.

We returned to Cooktown for a very late lunch then set off for the Botanical Gardens. We drove down to the beach first, then back to the gardens. Again, not much in the way of birdlife when we were there, but a nice place to visit.

Finch Bay.

I had never been to Cooktown before and it surprised me a little. I had expected it to be a bit more “touristy” but it is a small centre with not much happening. We hoped to buy some fresh fish, but had to make do with frozen (but very nice) mackerel fillets from the Ice Works. Thanks to the guy in the IGA who told us about that – we wouldn’t have though to look there.

After stocking up on fuel, fish, fresh bread and some groceries we finished packing up and set off towards the Peninsular Developmental Road and Artemis Station.

Artemis Station

9 – 11 May 2016

The road from Cooktown is sealed all the way to Lakeland, and then Laura, and then there are a number of sealed sections beyond to our final destination, Artemis Station. We stopped for lunch in the small picnic area in Laura, then for ice creams at Hann River Roadhouse, arriving at Artemis in the early afternoon. Last time Mick came up this way it was all dirt from Lakeland.

Young Black-backed Butcherbird. According to our host, Butcherbirds kill lots of Golden-shouldered Parrot nestlings.

Artemis is a working cattle property that is also home to the golden shouldered parrot. Station owners Tom and Sue offer camping and Sue is happy to take serious birders to nest sites and places where the parrots can be found. The fees charged are modest. The camp ground is an open paddock with some shade, and toilets. Hot showers are also provided with the donkey boiler lit each evening for guests. The turn-off to the property is about 24 kms south of Musgrave Station. Artemis isn’t marked on all maps, probably because it was once part of Musgrave Station. It’s adjacent to Dixie which does appear on some maps.

Old bloke with camera.

Bloody hot through the middle of the day but a pleasant camp at cooler times.

The first day we were there, we went out with Sue, and another visitor, to see a nest site. The nest contained chicks and the parent birds eventually appeared to have their photos taken. In the morning we all went out again, this time driving along the road where the birds are sometimes seen feeding, but this time they were nowhere to be found.

A young male Golden-shouldered Parrot.

Adult male. I wasn't able to get a decent shot of this one.

Later in the morning, after the other visitors had left, Sue took Mick for a walk to another nest site which he visited later in the day, staking it out for a couple of hours.

We were visited by the goats and horses.

On Wednesday morning before leaving we set off for a drive up the road again to see if any parrots were feed but again, no luck. We set off from Artemis, back south towards the Daintree.

Home Rule

11 – 12 May 2016

We reached Laura in time for lunch in the small park opposite the pub, drove through Lakeland and turned off towards Bloomfield. We decided on an overnight stay at Home Rule. The private campground is on a creek and surrounded by rainforest. It’s a beautiful, peaceful spot and if you don’t mind the cold water, you can swim in the creek. We had the campground almost to ourselves, sharing with a group from England.

A nice green lawn but a long trek to the amenities!

The campground is on the banks of Wallaby Creek.

Wallaby Creek.

Yellow-spotted Honeyeater.

Appropriately there was a wallaby present.

A fairly leisurely start then off for the Bloomfield Track.

Cape Tribulation

12 – 13 May 2016

We set off from our camp spot and stopped for coffee at Bloomfield then drove through Wujal Wujal and on to the Bloomfield Track. This drive is quite spectacular but not for the faint-hearted. It goes through thick rainforest, across a number of creeks (some with bridges, some straight into the creek bed) and skirts the coast in parts. This really is where the rainforest meets the sea. The unsealed section is only 32 kms but took us about an hour and 10 minutes. There are a number of steep climbs, and then the steep descent. There are also a number of sections that are very narrow. Four wheel drive and a driver who has some experience of this type of driving is required for much of the track. Needless to say, I did not drive this section. Mick has driven along this road before – many years ago when the unsealed section was longer and in worse condition so I was happy to defer to his expertise.

Once we rejoined the bitumen, we stopped for a picnic lunch at Dubuji Boardwalk. This is a lovely walk through the rainforest, with access to the beach as well. Part of the boardwalk was under restoration so only a part of it was open when we visited. There is a nice open area with covered picnic tables, as well as toilets and parking suitable for long vehicles.

Peacock Jewel or 4 O'Clock Moth.

Large -billed Scrubwren.

We then headed down the road a short way to Cape Trib Camping. This campground is on the beach and is very popular, especially with international tourists. We arrived early and there were only a few others there, but as the afternoon wore on the campground filled up. The bonus was the availability of wood fired pizzas. We shouted ourselves dinner out – just a few steps from our camp. Despite the numbers of young travellers, it was another quiet night.

We set off in the morning bound for Cairns. As we didn’t really have far to go, we stopped at Marrja Boardwalk for a walk through the rainforest mangroves. We remembered to use plenty of insect repellent this time. (On our last visit we didn’t give it a thought and ended up covered in sandfly bites). There wasn’t much birdlife about, but it was a nice walk. When we emerged at the end of the walk we were surprised to see cars stopped haphazardly and people milling around – a cassowary and his chick were wandering along the road, not an unusual sight, but still very special.

We made our final stop in the Daintree at Jinbalba. There are a couple of walks, one easy, one challenging. No prizes for guessing which one we chose! While we were having our usual picnic lunch, we were approached by a couple of chaps (probably Americans) who told us they had seen something unusual in the rainforest, but weren’t sure what it was. They had captured a lovely image of a juvenile cassowary. They were very pleased to find out what it was, and appreciated how special it was to see this endangered creature at close quarters.

Part of the walk at Jinbalba.

We left the Daintree and crossed the river on the ferry ($19 one way for car and camper trailer) and made our way to Cairns.

Waiting for the ferry.

Cairns

13 – 15 May 2016

Our purpose for visiting Cairns was to go to the Caravan and Camping Show. We wanted to have a chat to the Cub crew and also to make a couple of purchases. We chose a caravan park out of town and splurged on an ensuite site. Definitely worth the extra expense as a treat.

While stocking up on groceries as the local shopping centre we spotted signs advertising a “car boot sale” at the Men’s Shed so of course that was our first stop on Saturday morning. On our way out of there we saw a sign pointing to a garage sale in a nearby street, we went there too. On to the showgrounds and we spent a few hours (and a few hundred dollars!) at the Camping Show. Home for lunch with a stop at an op-shop on the way, then back down to the Esplanade for some serious bird photography. The weather wasn’t great with storm clouds gathering but it was a good outing. Mick spied some fellow birders and they exchanged information on sightings. They were from the local bird club so knew what was down there.

A new bird for me! Double-banded Plover non breeding. A visitor from New Zealand.

On Sunday morning we set off for Henrietta Creek in Wooroonooran National Park.

Henrietta Creek

15 – 16 May

When we had been on the Atherton Tablelands at the start of this trip, we had gathered some information about Henrietta Creek which is not far from MaMu Tropical Skywalk. We tried to book online (as you must with National Parks) but the system wouldn’t complete the booking, so I rang, only to be told the system was down due to maintenance. It appeared that our site was booked so, after stopping for fuel in Innisfail (still cheaper than Cairns or Townsville) we drove up the Palmerston Highway and found the camping area. The weather didn’t look great but we settled in anyway.

Yellow-breasted Boatbill.

We walked down to the creek but couldn’t go further due to debris on the track. We enjoyed a quiet afternoon, as the campground filled up. It was a rainy night and the sky was overcast in the morning. We chatted with some fellow campers as we packed up – and the rain started to fall. We retreated to the sheltered picnic area and waited for it to stop. Eventually it eased enough to finish packing up but we abandoned our plans to visit MaMu. We’ll have to save it for another day.

Back down the highway and a stop in Innisfail for fresh bread and a few other supplies, as well as a visit to a couple of op-shops and a coffee, then on to Kurrimine Beach.

Kurrimine Beach

16 – 18 May

We have stayed at Kurrimine Beach a number of times, but we have never camped. We were looking forward to a couple of days on the beach and were pleased to be able to select our own site with absolute beach frontage. Despite the wind and cloud it was a fabulous spot.

Absolute beach frontage was nice.

A Ghost Crab cautiously surveys the beach.

The caravan park is attached to the pub and we were hoping to have dinner there one night, but unfortunately the kitchen was closed for some renovations on the nights we were there. Instead we opted for burgers at the local take-away and wished we hadn’t.

A fairly common bird, the Red-capped Plover, but my favourite photo of the trip. This is a female.

Male Red-capped Plover.

Our visit to Kurrimine was mostly about relaxing after some very full days (and weeks). It was the perfect spot for that – walks along the beach, drinks at the pub and then a pleasant evening chatting with out neighbours.

We did get rained on again, but were able to pack up in between showers for the short (1/2 hour) drive to Mission Beach.

Mission Beach

18 – 20 May

Back to another favourite spot and our first time camping here. We had looked at the council caravan park when we were here last and were impressed with the basic, but beachfront, location so we headed there. Because we were now into the tourist season, it was quite crowded. We had a look at the few available sites and nothing suited us so we went across the road to another caravan park. Not beachfront, but backing onto to World Heritage listed rainforest – and not crowded at all. We settled in for a quiet afternoon, which included more walks on the beach.

Mission Beach.

Dunk Island from Mission Beach.

Mick had read about some birds which might be found on the Lacey Creek Walk, just a few kilometres down the road. We smothered ourselves with heavy duty insect repellent and long sleeves but this was no match for the voracious mosquitoes. Such a shame because this is a very beautiful and easy walk which meanders through the rainforest with several creek crossings. It was impossible to linger to enjoy the surroundings. We’ll have to re-visit when there hasn’t been any rain.

Blue Triangle Butterflies drink water from the ground in the car park.

Lacey Creek Walk

On Thursday morning we took a drive down to Wongaling and South Mission Beaches, just to look around, then on into Tully to visit our favourite kitchen shop. When we returned to Mission Beach we spotted the local fisho’s van, so bought some lovely fresh fish – enough for sandwiches for lunch, as well as dinner. 

We ventured back down to the beach where we saw a number of groups of skydivers landing just near where we were sitting. This is always a popular spot for international tourists, but we’ve never seen so many in one afternoon.

Not for me but fun to watch.

Landing gear down!

Another safe landing.

After another rainy night we packed up, slightly damp and set off for home.

Back into Queensland - almost home

Maryborough

13 - 14 February 2016

We began our journey from Ballina early and intended to find a beachside spot for our overnight stop - maybe on the Sunshine Coast. The weather was against us from the start with dark clouds threatening to burst even as we packed up.

It rained on and off all the way up the highway to Brisbane, with some quite heavy showers. We made our way via the motorways through Brisbane - and the traffic that goes with being in a capital city - and headed for the Sunshine Coast. We had decided to start at Caloundra and see where we ended up. That was our big mistake of the day! The traffic - in the rain - was just horrendous and we were unable to find anywhere to park with the trailer so we ended up just retracing our route back to the motorway. 

We decided that we would keep on driving until we left the rain behind us. Second mistake! It just kept on raining. A night or two at the beach was looking less and less likely. We stopped for a coffee at one of the highway service centres - third mistake - the one we chose was under renovation! One crowded coffee spot and no seating, and still raining.

We continued on our way north and stopped for lunch at another highway service centre at Kybong, not far from Gympie. Our luck had changed. The cheapest fuel we had seen in a long time, a very nice cafe for a tasty meal and a Visitor Information Centre. We obtained some information about a possible destination, but given the weather decided to press on.

We had had enough driving when we arrived in Maryborough - and it was still raining - so we checked into a  motel. This one was a bit more expensive than others in Maryborough but was an excellent choice. There was ample parking for car and trailer right outside the unit, which had a large lounge, separate bedroom and small kitchen. The motel is part of a shopping/tavern/caravan park complex so we had everything we needed within close proximity.

In the morning we decided to drive down to Hervey Bay to have a look around before continuing on our journey north. The weather had improved (well it wasn't raining, but it was starting to get hot) so we stopped to have a look at the small beachside market and have a coffee. Hervey Bay looks like it would be a very nice place to spend a few days, with a number of caravan parks right on the beach.

Yeppoon

14 - 15 February 2016

After having a look at Hervey Bay, we drove back to the highway and headed for Yeppoon. The weather was heating up so we were looking for somewhere to cool off. We drove down to have a look at Keppel Sands, but decided to continue on to Yeppoon. We found a caravan park a few kilometres from Yeppoon and checked into a cabin - and spent some time in the pool. 

In the morning we headed into the shops for some supplies and made a fairly late start back on the highway. As we travelled closer to home the temperature was heading for the mid-thirties so we were again looking for somewhere to cool off.

Airlie Beach

15 - 17 February 2016

We had been told about a nice caravan park at Cape Palmerston, near Ilbilbie so we went to have a look. It did look nice, but without a pool or being able to swim at the beach (it was stinger season) we decided to press on again. We both agreed a couple of days in a cabin at Airlie Beach would suit us nicely to finish our holiday. We returned to a caravan park we had stayed at when our girls were little. Lots of trees (and birds) and a nice cool swimming pool. 

We felt a rest day would be a good idea before returning home and tackling all the unpacking and sorting that we knew would take a while - not to mention the heat! We visited the shops in Airlie Beach, swam in the pool and had dinner at the nearby pub. We did drive over to Shute Harbour for a look but were very disappointed to find you have to pay to park - minimum $2.50 (for 2 hours). We only wanted to stay for a few minutes so declined the opportunity to contribute to council revenue. You do have to pay also to park in Airlie Beach, but you get access to all the shops, eateries, beach and swimming lagoon so the $2 fee for 2 hours is much better value.

On Wednesday morning we packed and set off - somewhat reluctantly - on the final leg of our journey.

Townsville - Home

17 February 2016

After a stop for coffee in Home Hill, and op shop in Ayr, we arrived home around lunchtime to 36 degree heat. The unpacking and sorting would have to be done in small stages.

The stats:

• just over 19 weeks on the road (including 7 weeks in Tasmania)
• 5 states - Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia and Tasmania
• 1 territory - Australian Capital Territory
• around 19 400 kilometres
• stayed in 11 National (and Conservation) Parks - Cape Hillsborough, Lamington (Qld), Cattai, Capertee, Wollemi, Wombeyan Caves, Ben Boyd (NSW), Hattah-Kulkyne (Vic), Coorong, Coffin Bay (SA), Booderee (ACT)
• we stayed in the camper trailer in caravan parks, National Parks and campgrounds, in cottages, cabins, an apartment and the homes of family and friends
• visited 12 other National (and Conservation) Parks - Tamborine (Qld), Bundjalung, Murray Valley (NSW), Warren (Gorge), Little Dip, Lake Gilles (SA), Grampians (Vic), Bay of Fires, Freycinet, South West, Mount Field Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair, Bruny Island (Tas)
• wandered through 3 Botanical Gardens - Australian Arid Lands Botanic Garden (Port Augusta - SA), Tasmanian Arboretum (Eugenana - Tas), Booderee Botanic Gardens (Booderee NP - ACT)
• crossed the water on 5 car ferries - Narrung Ferry (The Narrows - where Lake Alexandrina and Lake Albert meet - SA), Spirit of Tasmania (Bass Strait, Melbourne (Vic) to Devonport (Tas) and return, Fatman Barge (Pieman River, Corinna - Tas), Bruny Island Ferry (Kettering to Bruny Island and return - Tas), Burns Point Ferry (Richmond River, South Ballina to Ballina, NSW)
• Mick saw 20 new birds and photographed many

Travelling through New South Wales (and a little bit of ACT)

Ben Boyd National Park - Bittangabee Campground

5 - 7 February 2016

We left Marlo and drove back along the road towards Cape Conron for another look for birds at the boat ramp. Mick did manage to get a few photos before we set off again to the Princes Highway via Cabbage Tree. Once on the highway we stopped for coffee (and a poke around in the "relic" shop) at Cann River before driving on into New South Wales. We stopped for lunch at  a lovely picnic area at Wallagaraugh River. There were a number of rest stops along the way, but I think this was the best one.

We had booked our next camp online - NSW had recently changed their National Parks booking system (and updated their prices) to an online system for most parks. It was so much easier when you could just register and pay when you arrived. We booked two nights at Bittangabee Campground based on reviews we had read, and we found it to be a very nice campground. There were lots of people there, but it wasn't really crowded.

Spotted Quail-thrush is a bird I've only seen twice. I was lucky to get a shot before it disappeared into the thick bush.

Wonga Pigeons were common around the camp.

The beach was a short walk from our camp.

There are a number of walks from the campground ranging from a few minutes down to the very sheltered beach, to the serious "Light to Light" walk which is a three day hike. We explored the area while we were there, including a drive out to the Green Cape Lighthouse. This is a lovely spot, and worth the drive.

A Yellow-faced Honeyeater on the walk to the lighthouse.

Great Cormorants on the tip of the cape.

Stunning views from Green Cape.

There was lots of wildlife in and around the campground including very big goannas, kangaroos and possums who visited at night to feast on the packet of biscuits we had forgotten to put away. We should have known better - we did remember to put the rubbish bag away.

We enjoyed good weather while at Ben Boyd and set off up this highway again, bound for Booderee National Park.

Huskisson 

7 - 8 February 2016

We drove back the 18 or so kilometres of rough unsealed road to the Princes Highway and on through Eden, stopping at Pambula for coffee. We made it into Narooma for lunch and some shopping, then on towards Jervis Bay and Booderee National Park. We hadn't booked as we didn't have internet access at Ben Boyd, and couldn't get into the booking system in the phone while travelling.

Sooty Oystercatcher.

Eastern Curlew in afternoon light.

We had decided to call into the park visitor centre and organise a campsite then. We arrived at the manned park entrance and said we just wanted to check in with the visitor centre about camping only to be told it was not open - even though it was before the advertised closing time. The young lady manning the booth suggested that the reason we couldn't get into the booking system could be that they were fully booked. She suggested we could try Huskisson.

The beach at Huskisson.

Creek mouth at Huskisson.

Paddleboarder

This scruffy looking square-tailed Kite was seen hawking above the trees surrounding the park.

We found our way to a caravan park right on the beach for the night. The beach is beautiful and we decided that this would be a nice place to spend some time - but we would move on. We booked online to stay at Booderee National Park. In the morning, after returning to the beach we drove into town for supplies and then drove the short distance back to Booderee.


Booderee National Park - Green Patch Campground

8 - 10 February 2016

It was only a short drive back to Booderee National Park, and after our poor experience the previous evening we were very pleasantly surprised. Booderee is actually part of the ACT - even though it is on the south coast of NSW. It is part of Jervis Bay. We pulled up at the park entry booth and were told that our camp fee included park entry, and that we should call in at the Visitor Centre to let them know we had arrived. We were greeted warmly and we advised that we might want to stay two nights - no problem, they would book us on for an extra night, just call in tomorrow and let them know if we decided to stay.

This Echidna was at the visitors centre car park.

We watched Dolphins fishing after lunch as we waited for our camp site.

We drove down to the campground, but as it was still early, the previous occupants of our site were still packing up so we drove down to the boat ramp at Murrays Beach for lunch. Back to the campground to set up, it was an easy decision to stay an extra day.

A young roo has a feed in front of our camp.

Our humble home away from home.

This National Park is almost perfect - the roads are mostly sealed, and even the unsealed ones are pretty good, there are toilets and hot (timed) showers, and when booking online you can see a photo of the site, with description, including dimensions. There are BBQs and the beach is only 200 metres from the campground. There are also a number of interesting spots a short drive away (all less than 10 kilometres) as well as lots of short walks. Oh, and Botanic Gardens!

Christie surprised this little Antechinus in the loo.

The Eastern Bristlebird is endangered and usually quite secretive. This is a great place to see them.

White-throated Needletail over the camp.

Booderee National Park is owned and jointly managed by the Wreck Bay Aboriginal Community and is place of significance for all Koori people. It was very special to be able to visit and stay in such a place.

A family of Eastern Yellow Robins at the Botanic Gardens.

This was a really nice spot to spend a couple of days and we could have stayed longer if we could have been more flexible with our time. In addition to the obligatory bird photography sessions - at the Cape St George Lighthouse and Botanic Gardens, we also enjoyed a couple of swims at the beach that is only about 200 metres from the campground. From the beach we were entertained by Australian Navy vessels engaged in some sort of exercise involving personnel boarding a small boat from a helicopter - perhaps in preparation for "turning back the boats"? The weather was beautiful - if a little hot - and this is definitely on our list of favourites now.

I won't comment on operational matters! HMAS Adelaide, amphibious assault ship.

HMAS Anzac, helicopter frigate.

We loved the cool clear water and clean white sand, perfect on a hot day!

After enjoying a real holiday feel on the south coast of NSW it was time to tackle the Sydney traffic on our way north - something we weren't looking forward to at all.


Harrington (near Taree)

10 - 11 February 2016

Even though I learned to drive in Sydney, I wasn't at all keen on driving through but it had to be done. To my surprise it wasn't as hard as I had thought. Once we left the Princes Highway near Wollongong and headed for the Hume Motorway, it was an easy trip from one motorway to the next until we reached Pennant Hills Road and then onto the Pacific Motorway. The hardest part was not being able to stop!

The motorways make for an easy drive, but you do miss out on visiting many smaller towns - but we didn't take the detours as we were now on a bit of a short timeline for returning home. We aimed for the central coast, and made it all the way to Harrington, just past Taree. We settled into a caravan park on the lagoon, and went for a walk through the forest to have a look at the water. It was a nice spot to stay - except for the sandflies. We were both bitten extensively.

We did go down to the local pub for dinner with a fabulous view of the water (lagoon and glimpses of the beach beyond) and the setting sun. It was a nice end to a long and tiring day.

In the morning we set off north again, bound for Yamba.


Yamba

11 - 12 February 2016

When we drove south at the start of this trip, we stayed at Iluka, so this time we decided to stay at Yamba, on the other side of the river. Most of the drive was on motorway, but there were roadworks most of the way which slowed us down considerably.

We arrived at Yamba late in the afternoon and chose a caravan park "resort" on the river. This one can justifiably call itself a resort, We had an ensuite site (quite a treat) and there were a number of great facilities - a TV room, bar (including swim-up), several swimming pools, and a cafe where we enjoyed a casual dinner after a swim. Another place we would be happy to return to.

The Clarence River at Yamba.

Low tide on the river.

The caravan park is right on the river.

Because we planned on only a short drive to Ballina, we set off into town in the morning for a spot of shopping. A couple of op-shops, a nice cafe, a second-hand shop and a shop selling records as well as a camping goods store and small hardware shop kept us busy until it was time to check out and head up the road.


Ballina

12 - 13 February 2016

Because we didn't have far to go we had the luxury of being able to have a look at a couple of caravan parks before deciding where to stay. We started in South Ballina and had a look around but decided to check over the river. Well, the GPS showed a bridge - silly us believed it - and it turned out to be a ferry. Of course there is a bridge on the highway, but this ferry provided a significant short cut - at $11 for the car and camper trailer.

We found a small and friendly caravan park at the end of the main street, but had real trouble getting the camper trailer onto the small site. Eventually the manager suggested we could use two sites - as had most other caravans. Maybe they need to reorganise their sites - and roads which are narrow and end in dead ends - quite a challenge when you are towing!

We made contact with Mick's friend Jo who we visited last time in Lennox Head and arranged to visit again. We ventured down to one of a number of river beaches for a quick swim then went over to Jo's for a cuppa and chat. Mick was keen to re-visit Flat Rock (a favourite bird spot) so Jo and her dog Kip came down with us. Mick was happy to get some good shots.

Little Tern at Flat Rock.

A new bird for me... Wandering Tattler.

We managed an early start in the morning, ready to tackle the Brisbane traffic. We realised this would be out fifth capital city of the trip.

On our way home - Victoria

1 February 2016

We were to leave Tasmania on 31 January, but a check of the weather forecast for Bass Strait indicated a rough crossing was almost certain. The forecast for 1 February was much more benign so we changed our booking. We didn't mind having an extra day with family and friends.

Some pics of sea birds mid crossing showing how calm it was.

You can see why they are called Shearwaters.

Probably a Short-tailed Shearwater.

As predicted the day crossing was very calm and we arrived in Melbourne ready to tackle the traffic on the way to our motel in Brunswick. I hate driving in traffic, and Melbourne has the added bonus of trams and funny hook turns - you certainly have to keep your wits about you, but at least we didn't get lost! Our motel was around the corner from a number of eateries, and we chose the pub for a hearty meal and a drink.

Healesville

2 - 3 February 2016

In the morning we headed off along Sydney Road towards Craigieburn and beyond to pick up the camper trailer. Again we had to contend with the trams, but managed to get out of the city without too much trouble. We collected the camper trailer and set off for Healesville. We arrived just on lunchtime so had lunch in town before making our way to the caravan park which was in a nice location on a creek a few kilometres away.

We managed to get the camper set up without too much difficulty - even after seven weeks away. We drove back into town to collect supplies. After a quite hot day the inevitable happened - it rained overnight and was still raining in the morning when it was time to pack up. We made use of the raincoats we had been carrying around with us for months and broke camp in the wet. 

Our aim was to get to Lakes Entrance, but the forecast suggested there was more rain to come.

Marlo (East Gippsland)

3 - 5 February 2016

As we thought, the rain persisted all throughout the day. We just kept on driving, stopping to eat sandwiches in the car along the way. We reached Lakes Entrance and decided we could keep going a little further - perhaps Orbost or Marlo. Driving into Orbost we decided we could get to Marlo - and we were glad we did. Marlo is on the Snowy River Estuary and is a lovely little spot.

Pilotbirds were surprisingly common in the thick coastal heath.

After more overnight rain, we spent the day exploring the area after stocking up  (and visiting Op-shops) in Orbost. Under blue skies, we visited Salmon Rocks, West Cape and East Cape, Frenches Narrows as well as a couple of other spots on the Snowy River Estuary Walk.

Red Wattlebirds fed in the caravan park trees along with Purple-crowned Lorikeets and Little Wattlebirds.

A Black-shouldered Kite on the way to Marlo.

We headed off early next morning, bound for New South Wales.