Lake Redbrook (Childers)

 9 - 10 September 2025

We moved on to Lake Redbrook, arriving in the early afternoon. We intended to stay just one night and checked in to a nice site with a view through to the lake. There's some good birding around the lake, and after three nights in a very crowded campground it was so nice to be somewhere quieter and more laid back.

We drove in to Childers later in the day to do some shopping, and spend some time having a look around. It was a very hot afternoon and it was good to escape the worst of it by visiting air conditioned shops! We returned to camp and Mick spent some time down by the lake with the camera.

There is good birding by the lake

We had booked to stay at Inskip Point for the next couple of nights so headed off early, hoping to be able to get a good spot.

Tannum Sands

 6 - 9 September 2025

We left Bowen to continue our journey south, with the aim to get to somewhere around Rockhampton. We drove through Mackay and made our first stop at Sarina where we planned to grab a coffee at the Visitor Information Centre only to discover that they aren't open on the weekend. Bad luck, so we jumped back in the car and continued on.

Next we stopped for lunch at the beach side picnic area in Clairview. This has become a regular stop for us, and is quite a popular spot judging by the number of cars and caravans coming and going. We pushed on and reached Rockhampton where we pulled over to consider our options. We had thought to stay just a little way south so Mick could re-visit a birding spot at Port Alma, but in the end we decided against it.

We'd had a long drive and decided that we could keep going through to Tannum Sands, which would take almost another two hours, and have us arriving around 5:00pm. I had a look online but couldn't see any availability at the caravan park, so called instead. Yes, they did have a site for a couple of nights, but the office would be closed when we arrived. We booked the site and continued on.

We hadn't ever been to Tannum Sands before and were looking forward to a couple of days relaxing at the beach after a few fairly hectic, long days in the car. We made our way to the caravan park and located our site - but, my goodness, what a disappointment. The place was packed and we were allocated the last site - tucked up into the corner, jammed in between huge caravans and as far away from the amenities as you could get. We had no other option but to set up and hope we could get a site change in the morning. Being a Saturday night we figured there might be some vacant spots on Sunday.

In the morning we went for a walk on the beach and called in to the office on our way back. We were very pleased to be given a choice of a few sites and selected one in a much  better location. We also extended our stay by another night. We packed up and moved to our new spot - it didn't feel as crowded, had nice green grass underfoot, was  beside a tree for shade and was a short walk to the amenities. All in all it was a much better site.

A walk on the beach
is always a good way to start the day

We did the usual things we do when in a new place - we went looking for birds. Mick had a couple of spots to check out but we had some difficulty locating access points so it wasn't a very productive outing. We did get to see some of this location which was nice. We enjoyed walks on the beach but neither of us felt it was quite what we were expecting. It was a good place to stay, but not a great spot.

Next, we would continue south to Lake Redbrook, near Childers. We stayed there once in a cabin and were keen to return. 

Bowen

 5 - 6 September 2025

After a quick over-nighter at Cowley Beach we returned to the Bruce Highway and our journey south. We stopped for fuel in Cardwell and then drove to Jourama Falls Day Use Area in the Paluma Range National Park, for morning tea and a spot of birding. There were lots of cars there but we managed to find a place to park the camper trailer, not far from one of a number of picnic shelters.

Once we left Jourama Falls, we knew that we would need to find a lunch stop before we reached Townsville. We found a new rest area just north of Bluewater and had our picnic there. It was nothing flash, but did the job. We drove through Townsville on the Ring Road for the very first time. We have entered or exited Townsville that way many times, but this was the first time using it as a by-pass. It is an excellent way to get through the city without having to tangle with traffic.

Once through Townsville we were confident that we could make it to Sarina for the night - until we reached Bowen and saw the illluminated sign on the south side of town indicating that the highway was closed between Bowen and Sarina. I checked the Queensland Traffic app and saw that there had been a serious crash and the road would be closed for some time. As it was already after 3:00pm we decided it would be unwise to wait and started calling caravan parks to see if we could get a spot. In peak tourist season most parks were full but we did get a site at one near the harbour. We'd stayed there before so were happy that it was in a good location.

As it was Friday, and as our plans had been rail-roaded, we treated ourselves to dinner at the pub. The Grand View Hotel is a short walk from the caravan park and serves very nice meals. There was rain about but it didn't eventuate in our location so we were able to enjoy a leisurely stroll to the pub and back.

We made the most of our unexpected stopover

We set off early the next morning, hoping to get to somewhere around Rockhampton.

Cowley Beach

 4 - 5 September 2025

After a week back on the Atherton Tablelands, we headed off again. Mick had been able to book a spot on a pelagic (off shore birding trip) out of Port Macquarie so we left Yungaburra and travelled via the Palmerston Highway, heading south. Because of our late in the day departure, we knew we wouldn't get too far. We made it to Cowley Beach and decided that would do nicely. We'd never been there before and, while we have our favourite places we like to go back to, we also like to try out new spots.

We found the caravan park, right on the beach and were given a good big site for the night. We went for a walk on the beach and enjoyed the quiet surrounds. There's not much at Cowley Beach, but it's still a very nice spot for an overnighter.

We enjoyed a late afternoon stroll on the beach

We decided in the morning to get as far as we could as we had managed to book a few nights at O'Reillys in the Gold Coast hinterland so needed to keep our journey on track - while still allowing a few stays in nice places. We knew we had plenty of time, but felt a push south would be the best thing, then we could take our time a bit once we were closer to our destinations. With that in mind we headed off quite early with a plan to have a break in Cardwell, before continuing on. 

Yungaburra

 29 August - 4 September 2025

Once we left Artemis, our Cape York trip was over and it was time to return to the Tablelands - however it would only be a brief stay. We made the usual stops at Lakeland and Rifle Creek before arriving at Lakeside near Yungaburra. We had some credit from when we'd had to cancel last year, so checked in for 5 nights, and then extended it to 7. We were given a good site with views to the lake in two directions, and settled in.

We spent our time doing all the usual Tablelands things - visiting Petersen Creek, Hasties Swamp, Lake Eacham and Lake Barrine. I's always nice to be able to have easy access to a number of spots with good birding and great walks. We also had lots of housekeeping to do - including trying to get rid of the red dirt and dust that accumulates when you travel on unsealed roads. 

We woke up one morning to fog so thick
you couldn't see the lake

We drove over to Ravenshoe to visit our friends Rob and Cheryl and to pick up a couple of things we had left there before the Cape trip, and drop off a couple of things we wouldn't need again for a while. Of course, on the way home we stopped at Mount Hypipamee. We had been hearing about a resident cassowary but, despite visiting regularly, had never seen it - until this visit. We were returning from the walk to the crater when we spotted it near the bridge over the creek. It wandered around for a while, and we were able to get a very good look at it, and quite a few photos. 

While we were in Weipa we found out about the opportunity for Mick to get on a Pelagic birding trip out of Port Macquarie. He was able to secure a spot so we set about planning a southern trip. Port Macquarie is quite a favourite spot so we were happy to go there, and we managed to talk friends Anne and Stephen into joining us for a couple of nights. They live at Fingal Bay so it would be a short trip for them. We figured while we were heading south we should go up to O'Reillys too, so we included that in the plan.

On our final day we had arranged for some work to be done on the camper trailer while we were still onsite in the caravan park. Consequently, we didn't leave until after lunch. Again, we weren't sure where we would end up, but knew it would probably be a beach somewhere.

Artemis Station

 28 - 29 August 2025

We left Weipa for the long drive south with no firm plan about where we would stop for the night. We intended to drive until we were ready to stop, and had a few possibilities in mind. We stopped at the rest area at the Bamaga turn-off again, as well as "The Bend" north of Coen. We continued on and decided that we would have another night at Artemis Station.

We arrived fairly late in the afternoon to find we were the only ones camped there - how different to our visit a few weeks previously. That time the campground was packed, and this time it was quiet and peaceful. We were glad we had returned. 

A relaxing overnighter at Artemis

It was a relaxing afternoon watching the sun go down without anyone else around. Even though we were the only ones there, the donkey boiler was lit so we could have a hot shower. The campground is well looked after and owners and staff friendly and obliging - all for $10pp.

We left in the morning, intending to stay at Yungaburra where we had some credit from a previously cancelled stay. 

Weipa

 25 - 28 August 2025

We left Rainforest Campground in Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) National Park and set off for Weipa. It was a long drive, with a stop at Mount Tozer Lookout, before re-joining the Peninsula Development Road north of Archer River. We stopped for lunch at the rest area at the Bamaga turn-off then continued on the PDR into Weipa. Again, the road was in reasonable condition, with some rougher patches along the way.

We made it to Weipa by about 3:00pm and set up on a very nice campsite in the caravan park. We had a big tree for shade and could see the water in the distance. The weather was warming up and we were expecting to need the shade, and to spend time in the pool. After a big day's drive we decided on dinner at the cafe attached to the caravan park. We wandered over with our drinks as the sun was starting to set.

Sunset over the Gulf of Carpentaria

While we were in Weipa we did a spot of birding (to the sewerage ponds and the jetty at Evans Landing) and also visited the Op Shop with the best selection of second hand books you could hope to find. The price - a gold coin donation for as many as you want - can't be beaten. I grabbed a pile and happily made a donation. We completed the usual housekeeping tasks - shopping, washing and tidying - before getting ready to start heading south again.

Once again we weren't sure where we would aim for when we left so explored a couple of possibilites, deciding to see how far we could travel.

Kutini - Payamu (Iron Range) National Park - Rainforest Campground

 24 - 25 August 2025

There are only three campsites at Rainforest Campground and Mick had already spent some time there birding, so he knew which one would be best for us. The sites are quite large but only one is listed as suitable for caravans as the other two have quite tricky entrances. We booked one of those two (as they were the only ones available) and Mick was confident that he would be able to manouvre onto the spot. We left Chilli Beach quite late and made a stop at Cooks Hut campground where we had lunch before the short drive to Rainforest Campground.

All that remains of the cook's hut

We set up - after a bit of an effort to get the camper onto the site - and Mick spent the rest of the afternoon out with binoculars and camera. Despite the location, there was no rain which made our overnighter without the awning much easier. Most visitors here are birders or those who appreciate the natural environment, while the "list tickers" head to Chilli Beach. We enjoyed our time at each location we stayed at, but prefer the quieter places.

Our next stop would be Weipa, which would mean quite a drive, so an early start in the morning.

Kutini - Payamu (Iron Range) National Park - Chilli Beach Campground

 21 - 24 August 2025

We left the comparative luxury of Portland House and drove down to the Chilli Beach Campground. It is well known as a windy spot so we had taken some time to selectma campsite that would afford some protection. After reading many reviews, we were able to book one that sounded like it would suit. We arrived early, hoping that we could get onto our site. Chilli Beach is also well known as a spot where lots of people just turn up and set up camp without booking so we were pleased to find our camp was not occupied.

We were able to position the camper trailer side on to the beach so that we would not get blown away if the wind came up. It was a beautiful spot, right by the beach, with some trees for shade and extra protection, and enough clear space between us and neighbouring sites to be able to get the solar panels set up. We walked on the beach and Mick did lots of birding.

Picture postcard perfect!

e realised we would be there for an interesting phenomenon - a murmuration of Metallic starlings so we positioned ourselves on the beach late in the afternoon to watch as thousands of starlings whirled around the nearby rocky islands. It was fascinating to watch and even the non-birders were captivated. 

On Saturday we drove back to Portland Roads for lunch at Out of the Blue Cafe. The food and service were fantastic - as was the view from the deck. 

Once again we didn't have firm plans for our next stop - Mick was keen to have another night at Cooks Hut before moving on to Weipa, but in the end we decided to have a night at Rainforest Camp - still in the national park - instead. We booked before we left Chilli Beach to head back to the rainforest.

Portland Roads - Portland House

 18 - 21 August 2025

Last year we stayed at The Greenhoose, at Lockhart River, but that trip was cut short when Mick had to be airlifted to Cairns with appendicitis, so we had some unfinished business up here. This time we decided to treat ourselves to three nights at Portland House, at Portland Roads.

We took our time leaving Cooks Hut and departed after lunch. We made a couple of stops along the way at some likely birding spots before reaching our home for the next three nights. When we arrived our hosts were finishing a repair in the kitchen so we went for a short walk. We were able to park the camper trailer so that we could use the solar panels to keep the battery topped up and the fridge running while we were in the house.

Portland House is set on a rise looking our over the bay. The term "roads" means "safe anchorage" and we saw a number of yachts taking advantage over the three days we were there. Mick did a little birding around the property and nearby, but mostly we just enjoyed sitting on the verandah taking in the fabulous view. We also enjoyed the luxury of a house with a proper kitchen and our own bathroom!

The sunsets were stunning!

The house is adjacent to "Out of the Blue" cafe - also owned by our hosts Greg and Sheree - but the cafe wasn't open on the days we were there. We booked to come back for lunch later in the week, when we would be camping not far away.

The three nights went quickly, and it was time to go back to the camper trailer - but worth it for the locations we can get to! We packed up and had morning tea at the cafe before we set off for three nights back in Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) National Park - this time at Chilli Beach.

Kutini - Payamu (Iron Range) National Park - Cooks Hut Campground

 15 - 18 August 2025

We left Archer River Roadhouse and took the turn-off towards Portland Roads. We had booked 3 nights at Cooks Hut Campground in Kutini - Payamu (Iron Range) National Park and were very much looking forward to it. The road wasn't in terrible condition but there were still some bad patches. We found a spot to stop and have a bite to eat then stopped at  Mount Tozer Lookout before continuing on to the campground.

We had booked a different spot to the one we stayed on last year - this one is on the edge of the campground with the rainforest behind us, so a little bit quieter. Most of the other campers who stayed there while we were there were also birders, so lots of information was shared.

It's essential to keep the camera handy -
even when having Friday drinks

We were lucky to have great weather this time and Mick was able to venture out to a number of favourite spots at the other campgrounds nearby, along the track at the back of Cooks Hut, along the Old Coen Track and along the main road. Even though I'm not a birder, I really enjoy spending time in places like this. 

Our next stop would be for three nights in a house at Portland Roads, only about 35 minutes away, so we didn't need to rush to get going. We drove in to Lockhart River to pick up some supplies, and also to fuel up, before returning to camp to finish packing up and set off. 

Archer River Roadhouse

14 - 15 August 2025

We left Artemis Station without a firm plan about where we would spend the night. There are a couple of options at Coen, and beyond that, Archer River Roadhouse. There is also a campground after the turn-off to Kutini-Payamu NP. We drove through Coen and decided it was too early to stop - neither behind the pub, nor the campground at the guest house, seemed appealing. We continued on to a popular free camp just north of town, known as "The Bend". 

We stopped by the river and had a picnic lunch while we considered our options. In the end we decided not to camp at The Bend, and instead continued on to Archer River. The further we went, the closer we would be to the national park campground we had booked for the following nights. 

The campground at the Archer River Roadhouse is large and there was plenty of room for campers to not be on top of each other.  We found a spot with a bit of shade and settled in for the afternoon. We went for a walk down to the river and had a paddle but didn't swim. There were lots of caravans parked on the old (low level) bridge and families enjoying the water.

Plenty of room for everyone

Archer River is a good spot for an overnighter, and there were lots of others there on their way to or from "The Tip". In the morning we set off for a more than a week on the eastern part of Cape York.

Artemis Station

 12 - 14 August 2025

We left Hann Crossing Campground early and stopped for some birding and breakfast at Nifold Plain in Rinyirru National Park, before continuing on to photograph the Red goshawk, and then on to Artemis Station.

There's a croc in that waterhole

Artemis Station is well known as a breeding location for the Golden-shouldered parrot so it was on our list of places to visit. We arrived quite early in the day and chose a spot that would give us some shade. There was only one other camper when we arrived but the campground started to fill up as the afternoon wore on. It seems that Artemis has become a "go to" place for those wanting somewhere to spend the night on the way to or from "The Tip". It's a bit of a shame as, in our opinion, it has changed the atmosphere of the campground somewhat, with big groups "parking the wagons in a circle" with little regard for others. Birders, once the bulk of visitors, are now in the minority.

Regardless of the noisy caravanners, we still had a nice time at Artemis. The early birds left and we had the campground almost to ourselves - with one other birding couple - for most of the day, until the grounds started to fill up again. This time, in addition to the caravanners there was a big tour group. Definitely not what we had expected! It really is hard walking around a campground looking for birds with binoculars and camera when there are so many people nearby. 

We spent two nights at Artemis and Mick visited the feeding station a number of times to take photos of the parrots so it was a productive stop anyway. 

We had one more night to fill in before we were booked into Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) National Park but weren't sure where we would stop when we left Artemis. We'd decide along the way.

Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park - Hann Crossing Campground

 11 - 12 August 2025

After two nights at Twelve Mile Lagoon we moved on to another campground within the National Park - Hann Crossing. We've stayed there a couple of times before, but when we booked a few weeks before leaving Ravenshoe we weren't able to get the spot we wanted to so were forced to choose another one that we didn't think would be as good. As luck would have it I checked again a few days before we were due to arrive and was able to get back onto the spot we had last time. It's right on the river, huge, a short walk to the toilets and quite private. 

We left Twelve Mile quite late and stopped again at the ranger station, then continued on to Hann Crossing. Because we were only staying one night we didn't bother with the awning. This would also allow us to get away early in the morning.

Up early, ready to move on

We set up camp on the river at Hann Crossing and enjoyed a very relaxing afternoon, which included some birdwatching of course. In the morning we left as the sun was coming up and drove to another good birding spot, Nifold Plain. Mick spent a while taking photos and we had our breakfast there before we moved on to another spot to hopefully photograph the Red goshawk.

We'd found the goshawk on our ill-fated trip north the previous year so Mick was hopeful to find it again. His patience was rewarded with some great shots of the bird and it's nest. From there we drove on to Musgrave Roadhouse and the south to Artemis Station.

Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park - Twelve Mile Lagoon Campground

 9 - 11 August 2025

We felt our real Cape York adventure had begun when we left Endeavour Falls and headed towards Battlecamp Road that would take us into Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park. Along the way we stopped at Isabella Falls before entering the park. The unsealed road was in surprisingly good condition and we made it to Lakefield Ranger Station in time for lunch. From there we continued on to Twelve Mile Campground.

We generally choose campgrounds with toilets but wanted to stay somewhere different on this visit to Rinyirru so we booked a couple of nights at Twelve Mile. There are no facilities but the sites looked to be well spread out and we managed to book one right on the river. The track in is narrow and windy in parts and we had to stop at the turn-off for a group of five vehicles to leave before we could begin the drive to our campsite.

We had read lots of reviews and chose Site 5, and we are very glad we did. The site itself is huge and sits on the high bank of the Normanby River. Because there is quite a long track down to the site we weren't bothered by others driving by. Some of the sites are right on the road but ours was very private. We were able to position the camper trailer to get some sun and some shade. 

The view from our campsite

We spent a couple of very relaxing days watching the resident crocodile opposite our camp, and driving along the track to check out the other campsites - and to look for birds. We had collected firewood before we reached the camp so we were able to have a fire too.

We didn't need to hurry on our last morning as we were only going as far as Hann Crossing Campground so we took out time and headed out mid-morning.

Endeavour Falls

 7 - 9 August 2025

After a walk along the beach to marvel at the coloured sands at Elim Beach, we headed back towards Cooktown, stopping to spend a couple of nights at Endeavour Falls. The caravan park comes highly recommended, with lovely green grass and lots of trees. The falls are accessed from a track at the back of the park.

The falls are a short walk from the caravan park

We planned to spend two nights there getting prepared for our Cape York Peninsula trip, stocking up on groceries, washing and organising the storage so everything we might need would be easily accessible. 

Once the washing was on the line we drove into town with a stop  suggested by the caravan park owner. A suspension bridge spans a creek that joins into the Endeavour River at a T junction. Walking across the bridge we spotted a large crocodile on the bank of Endeavour River. We walked a little further and realised she was the smaller of a pair sunning themselves on the water's edge. She was big, but he was huge. 

We continued on into town and another walk along the river before heading to pick up groceries and then on back to the caravan park. Restocked and repacked we were ready to venture further north.

Elim Beach

 5 - 7 August 2025

We arrived at Elim Beach just on lunch time and were given a choice of a few spots to camp. We chose one that was ample in size and would give us some shade as well as sun for solar. It was close to the amenities and also allowed glimpses of the beach. There are no powered sites, and showers are cold water only. It's a popular fishing spot, but is most well know for the coloured sands further along the beach. 

The coloured sands start about 300 metres from the campground, and can be reached via a well formed sandy track from the campground. We checked the tides and decided to leave that excursion until our last morning. We went for walks on the beach and also a drive back along the road towards Hope Vale, looking for birds of course.

We enjoyed a very relaxing couple of days and packed up ready to leave, then drove down to walk to the coloured sands. The colours and formations were amazing, and we were the only ones there for most of our time. We walked a long way and were constantly surprised by what we saw. One of the most unusual sights was a "waterfall" of sand coming from high up the sand cliff, and cascading towards the bottom.

The coloured sands are definitely worth a visit

We returned to the campground and hitched up ready to continue our journey. We had booked to stay in Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park but still had some time to spare so we decided to head back towards Cooktown to get ready for the trip to the Cape. This time we chose to stay out of town at Endeavour Falls.

Cooktown

 4 - 5 August 2025

Our plan was to drive from Daintree towards Elim Beach which is north of Cooktown. The shortest way to travel is via the Bloomfield Track, but towing is not recommended at the moment. The road suffered significant damage from Cyclone Jasper and the intense rainfall that followed. Even though this was in December 2023/January 2024 the road is still undergoing repairs. We know that some people ignore the "no towing" request but we aren't those people, so we went the long way.

We travelled back up the Rex Range Road, with another stop at Abattoir Swamp and then a lunch stop at Rifle Creek near Mount Molloy. From there we headed north along Mulligan Highway. We decided that we would make up our minds how much further we would go, once we reached Lakeland.

Because we'd had a late start, and Elim Beach was still a fair way off, we decided to have a night in Cooktown. You can't make a booking for Elim Beach and we didn't want to arrive late in the day and end up with a less than ideal camp spot, so we continued on to Cooktown and the caravan park we have stayed in a couple of times before. It was quite crowded but we did get a good spot where we could stay hitched up for the night. 

A small history lesson for those not aware.

In the morning we drove to Mulbabidgee Keatings Lagoon for a walk to the bird hide and then returned to town for a walk along the foreshore. We left Cooktown and drove through Hope Vale and then on to Elim Beach, where we planned to spend a couple of nights.

Daintree Village

 2 - 4 August 2025

Leaving Ravenshoe our plan was to travel to Cape York Peninsula - but first we would have a couple of nights at Daintree Village. It's a spot we love, not least because there are a number of excellent nature and birdwatching cruises that depart from there. Once again we would stay at the caravan park in the village which is right on the river, and an easy stroll down to the boat ramp.

We left Ravenshoe and drove through Atherton and on to Rocky Creek War Memorial Park where we stopped for a picnic lunch. This is a very popular "free camp" and there is a nice sheltered picnic area away from the camping area. It's become a bit of a favourite spot to stop on our way through. Another favourite is Abattoir Swamp, just past Mount Molloy, where Mick did a spot of birding. We had plenty of time to get to Daintree so there was no need to hurry.

Early the next morning Mick headed out on one of the river cruises which feature birdwatching - most of them are more focussed on crocodile spotting. It's an early start but worth it when you get a good clear day and a knowledgeable guide. 

The fog was so thick we couldn't see the river

The nights were cold and we woke to a very foggy (and damp) morning on our second and last day so we waited until the sun was shining and the canvas had dried out a bit before we packed up and set off for Cooktown.

Ravenshoe - House Sit

 13 July - 2 August 2025

We were invited back to Ravenshoe to house sit again and gladly accepted. This time we would be there for three weeks over winter. Ravenshoe sits at an elevation of 930 metres and is often covered in cloud so we were expecting some very cold weather. Rob had left plenty of fire wood and we had all our "Tassie" warmies with us so we weren't too worried. We had to light the fire on a few nights, but mostly the weather was surprisingly mild.

We enjoyed drinks by the fire on cold nights

This time as well as Lexie the dog and the sheep we had looked after last time, we had another 12 sheep. Dinner time was like feeding a mob of 6 year old boys at a birthday party - they followed me into the paddock and almost knocked me over trying to get to the feed. They pushed and shoved each other out of the way and acted like they hadn't eaten in days - instead of having grazed all day. We had one lamb born while we were there and we could see there were more on the way.

Once again we settled into a good routine and used the time to restock our freezer ready for the next leg of our journey. We had decided to go "up the Cape" when we left so we reorganised our gear and arranged to store some things we wouldn't need in the shed.

We took the opportunity to igo "to town" in Atherton a few times on business as well as a rush to the hospital emergency department when Mick developed a very nasty swelling following some sort of a bite. Ticks, leeches and all things bitey seem to love him. Fortunately he was ok with some anti histamines but we never did figure out what had bitten him.

We visited Mt Hypippamee a couple of times and met up with a birding friend who was in the area for a few days. Mick was able to show him where to find a couple of birds he was after so he was very happy.

Homeowners Rob and Cheryl arrived back the night before we were due to leave and we enjoyed a great night with them, and some of their friends and family, at the Ravenshoe Bowls Club. The club hosts a dinner every fortnight - delicious home cooked food at a very reasonable price.

We did all our final packing on the morning of our departure, saaid our goodbyes and set off to Daintree Village where Mick had another boat cruise booked.

Undara Lava Tubes

 12 - 13 July 2025

With one night left before our next house sitting assignment we decided to stay at Undara Resort - not for the lava tubes, although they are fascinating, but for the setting and access to walking tracks. We booked online while we were in Georgetown and set off, with a stop for lunch in Mount Surprise.

The caravan park (resort) is located adjacent to the Undara Volcanic National Park and access to the lava tubes is by guided tour only, but there are some great walking tracks that can be accessed from the caravan park, and a crater walk a short drive away. We were allocated a good site with some shade and long enough to be able to leave the trailer hitched up - always a bonus for an overnighter.

Late in the afternoon we set off on the walk to the swamp, aware that part of the walk was still underwater from a very wet, wet season, but we were still surprised by the amount of water around. The swamp is now a lake, and staff suggested that it will probably stay that way for some time due to the rise in the water table. Because there is so much water around, birds no longer rely on this body of water so there weren't many around. It was still a nice walk, and worth it to see the swamp/lake so full.

Once a swamp, now a lake

We did consider having dinner in the onsite bistro but when we looked at the menu we decided against it. The new menu no longer reflects the setting and we considered it to be overpriced and far too "fancy" for a bistro in the bush. We had some home made soup from the freezer instead.

After another cold night, we packed up, removing some essentials from under the bed ready to live in a house for a while. We stopped at Mount Garnet to make a cup of coffee, and continued on to our "home" for the next three weeks in Ravenshoe.

Flat Creek Station - Forsayth

 10 - 12 July 2025

We left Cumberland Dam and stopped in Georgetown to run some errands before making our final decision to move on to Flat Creek Station near Forsayth. We'd been before and I wasn't all that keen to return but agreed we should give it another try anyway. We travelled south from Georgetown and turned off towards Western Creek Station, which also offers camping, then on to Flat Creek. Most of the creeks were full of water and the road was a bit rough in places, but generally not too bad.

This time we were pleasantly surprised by a completely different experience starting with a very warm welcome from one of the owners (who were nowhere to be seen last time). We snagged the same spot we had on our last visit and found the other campers, most of whom were fossickers, to be a friendly and interesting bunch. Most were keen to learn about the birds and have a chat about their travels. Most were couples where as last time it had all been men - mostly solos - in the campground. The camp had a completely different feel and even though the birding wasn't as good, we enjoyed a couple of good days there.

Drinks at sunset - always a nice way to end the day

Mick went out looking for birds in the early morning and late afternoon, and we pottered around camp for the rest of the time. We had good shade as well as some sun for solar. We experimented with using both 200w and 100w panels at the same time - as suggested by our auto electrician - and were very pleased with the results.

After 2 nights we left Flat Creek and returned to Georgetown where we stopped to make a booking to stay at Undara, as well as to call to finalise out house sitting arrangements.

Cumberland Dam

 9 - 10 July 2025

We left Karumba after 4 fabulous nights and started to make our way back towards Ravenshoe where we would be house sitting again. We had nearly a week to get there so we had a few options for stops along the way. We decided to make our first camp at Cumberland Dam (also known as Cumberland Chimney) just outside of Georgetown.

We drove from Karumba through to Croydon where we stopped for lunch, fuel and a few supplies. Croydon has a mining history and a lovely lake where you can picnic, but we stayed in town and had lunch in the park as we still had quite a way to go. We didn't want to arrive too late at our destinationas we were aware it can get quite crowded.

Cumberland Dam is a well known free (donation) camp about 20km west of Georgetown and is very popular with the grey nomads, but our reason for staying there is for the birding. We drove in to the campground and had a bit of a look around before settling on a site that was a good size, reasonably level and not too far from the dam. We were only staying one night so stayed hitched up. Mick ventured off with the camera, as usual.

The dam is beautiful at sunset

In the morning Mick set off again to take photos before returning for a cuppa and to pack up ready to move on. We drove in to Georgetown where we stopped to make a call to Flat Creek Station - our next destination.

Karumba

 5 - 9 July 2025

Having enjoyed three lovely nights at Adels Grove we now faced the huge drive to Karumba. We knew there were limited options for nice spots to stop for lunch so had packed a picnic bag with lots of "grazing" type food to eat along the way - left over camp oven roast chicken, cheese, carrot sticks, crackers, muesli bars, fresh and dried bananas and plenty of water. We had morning tea in Gregory before continuing on towards Burke and Wills Roadhouse.

We stopped briefly at the roadhouse but, unlike some roadhouses, this one doesn't have anywhere you could have a picnic, so we continued on and snacked as we drove. We made our way roughly north along the Burke Deveopmental Road and on through Normanton. We stopped at Mutton Hole Wetlands Conservation Park, but the track was in terrible condition and the grass was so long you couldn't see the water, so we didn't stay.

We arrived in Karumba late in the afternoon, just in time to set up at the caravan park and head to the Sunset Tavern for dinner. We knew it would be busy on a Saturday night but we were able to get a table inside, still with a good view of the sun setting over the waters of the Gulf of Carpentaria. The wait for dinner was long because of the crowds, but the meal was good and the atmosphere great, as usual.

Sunset over the Gulf of Carpentaria 

One of the reasons most people come to Karumba is for the fishing - but for Mick it's the birding so he ventured out and about each morning and again in the afternoon. He had wanted to do an early morning birding cruise but these are no longer available so we decided to indulge in the sunset cruise instead - a proper 40th wedding annivarsary celebration.

The sunset cruise was fully booked on the Saturday night so we had booked for the Sunday instead, and were so glad as there were only 7 other people on this tour. Some of us were collected from the beach at Karumba Point and we then motored back to Karumba town to collect the rest. The tour went up the Norman River where we learnt about the development of the town, including its military history,  as well as its current role in the export of zinc and lead from the Century Mine, and of course, the fishing and prawning industry for which it is most famous.

After explorin the town from the water, we returned to "The Point" and back into the gulf waters where we were served drinks and and a delicious grazing platter, followed by individual buckets of prawns and finally chocolate cake - all enjoyed as we watched the sun set over the water. It was a fabulous way to spend an evening.

Another stunning sunset

Mick had been given a tip about another birding spot near the Visitor Information Centre - Les Wilson Barrumundi Discovery Centre - so we drove into town in the morning. I spent some time looking at the interesting exhibits while Mick chased birds. There is a paid tour that includes the hatchery, but there is also lots to see within the visitor centre at no cost.

We had initially intended to stay three nights in Karumba but booked an extra one as we were enjoying our time - as well as the great weather and friendly neighbours. It was nice to be able to relax for a few days, with everything we needed close at hand. We had a date to return to Ravenshoe to house sit again so used the time to make a plan for our last week on the road.

Wugudaji - Adels Grove

 2 - 5 July 2025

We wanted to return to Boodjamulla - Lawn Hill Gorge but the national park has been closed since floods devestated the area in early 2023. I've been checking the website regularly and the re-opening date kept being pushed back. We usually stay at Adels Grove before or after a visit to Boodjamulla so we decided to go and stay a few nights anyway. About a week before, we saw a notice advising that the national park would be opening to day visitors from 4 July so we would be able to drive in, even though we couldn't stay. For once our timing was perfect.

We left Riversleigh D site and stopped to collect firewood along the 45km drive to Adels Grove, where we settled onto a site in the top camping area on the edge of "the grove". Sites in this section are marked but not allocated and allow for a bit more sunshine which we needed to keep the solar going over our three day stay. There are no powered sites at Adels Grove but the site we chose did have a make-shift fire pit which we would put to use.

Mick spent quite a lot of time walking down by the river looking to photograph birds and was well rewarded. The river looks quite different after such a huge flood - with massive log-jams in several places. The little beach where we swam with the girls on our first visit has been completely washed away and you can't walk as far along the river. 

This is what a big flood can do

The fire pit on our camping site was messy and overgrown so Mick spent the afternoon tidying it up ready to have a fire in the evenings. On our second night we cooked a chicken and some vegetables in the camp oven for dinner. It was going to be a cold night again so we looked forward to being able to sit by the fire. Dinner was cooked to perfection! 

Camp oven dinner - perfect on a cold night

We were keen to drive into the national park on the morning it reopened, so packed up a picnic and headed off after breakfast. The road from Adels Grove to the park entrance is now bitumen - it used to be the worst section of gravel on the whole drive from Gregory. We knew the only walk available was Constance Range hike but we weren't keen to do that as it's quite long and strenuous. Swimming in Lawn Hill Creek was still possible and kayaks were available to hire.

We arrived to find quiet a few others had the same idea and we chatted with lots of people as we wandered around. We were fortunate to be able to talk with one of the park rangers who let us know a bit more about the flood recovery work that had been done, and what was still to do. The office has been re-instated but there is no visitor centre yet. The campground is yet to be rehabilitated and the waste treatment plant is still not up and running properly so camping is limited to small tour groups. The staff accommodation has had new kitchens and bathrooms but most of the paved pathways have been washed away and have not yet been replaced. It's been a massive job to get the park to this stage and there is still so much work to be done. Camping should be open to the general public in October, but by then it will be too hot for us.

Boodjamulla - still one of my favourite places

We didn't swim because it was a bit too cool and we didn't see anyone else in the water either. Those hiring kayaks could paddle to Indarri Falls but the platform where you could previously stop, rest and have a swim is not there any more. The walks to the falls, and other walks are yet to be reinstated.

In the end we didn't stay long. While it was fascinating to see the changes and great to talk to the rangers, once we'd walked as far as we could along the river, there wasn't much else for us to do so we headed back to Adels Grove. We took a short detour back along the Riversleigh road to collect some more firewood. This time we were planning to cook potatoes in foil on the coals - and once again, delicious!

We had booked to stay in Karumba so had a huge drive ahead of us the next day so did as much packing and organising as we could so that we could get away early. We managed to leave by about 8:30am and headed towards Gregory. It was an unusually foggy morning which slowed us down a bit but we made it into Gregory in time for morning tea. We also fuelled up as the price was lower than at Burke and Wills roadhouse which is on the main road back to Karumba.

Boodjamulla National Park (Riversleigh Section) - Miyumba Campground

 1 - 2 July 2025

I had wanted to go to Riversleigh Fossil Site for many years, and had even tried to book a tour once, but we had yet to organise a visit. This time we were able to include it in our plans to head towards the Gulf of Carpentaria. We packed up and left Mount Isa, and drove north-west along the Barkly Highway until we reached the turn-off that would take us to the Gregory Downs - Camooweal Road. We stopped for a cuppa at a rest area and then continued on. We joined the Gregory Downs - Camooweal Road and were surprised that the bitumen went further than we had expected. It didn't last too long though and we soon had to stop to let some air out of the tyres.

Even though GoogleMaps plots a course that goes all the way to Gregory, we knew there was a turn-off that would take us direct to Riversleigh. It was well sign-posted but there was a temporary sign indicating "road closed". I had checked that morning and there was no indication online that the road was not open so we decided to continue, knowing we might have to turn around as some stage. Not far along we stopped a mine vehicle coming towards us and the driver confirmed that vehicles were getting through. We did come across some new bitumen works, and surmised that the road may have been closed for a short time while it was being laid. As sometimes happens in remote locations, no-one had bothered to remove the sign.

We continued on and crossed several creeks with runnning water. We stopped by the side of the road near one to have a quick picnic lunch and then drove on. We were quite surprised at the amount of water flowing across the causeway at the Gregory River. We were also able to see the effects of recent floods. We missed the entrance into the campground and stopped when we reached the Riversleigh World Heritage Site. As we planned to stop on our way through the following morning we didn't linger, instead heading back the few kilometres to the campground. 

Gregory River crossing south of Miyumba

When booking to camp at Miyumba Campground you don't book an actual site so you can choose the one that suits you once you arrive. We chose a nice big site that would give us some shade, and also some sun for the solar. We had discovered the Anderson plug which provides power to the camper trailer batteries while driving, had been broken on the rough road so getting some solar in was essential.

We went for a walk down to the Gregory River which is nearby and Mick spent some time looking for birds. It wasn't very productive but Miyumba Campground was still a nice spot to spend a night. There was only one other camper there at the time which made for a very peaceful evening.

The following morning Mick walked back to the river, and repaired that broken Anderson plug before we set off to explore Riversleigh D Site. This is the only site open to the public, with interpretive information and a walk that winds up a hill and back down again. Many of the fossils are labelled but a careful look as you walk, reveals so many more. D Site was one of the first sites to be discovered at Riversleigh, and contains 25 million year old fossils of turtles, fish, snails, crocodiles, lizards, pythons, birds, as well as many different types of mammal. 

Fabulous views of the area
from the top of the hill - and there's fossils

After our walk around the site, we had lunch then continued on towards Adels Grove. 

Mount Isa

 30 June - 1 July 2025

Neither of us really wanted to stay in Mount Isa but it seemed like the best option for an overnighter so we headed west from Mary Kathleen. Before making our final decision we drove out to Lake Moondara and had morning tea there. There are lovely picnic areas with toilets and showers as well at the lake, and lots to explore if you wanted to spend some time there.

Finally deciding to stay, we headed back to the nearby caravan park and settled in to get some jobs done and to restock before going into some smaller, less well resourced places. We did some washing and then went in to town for groceries and fuel. We repacked and tidied the car and then booked our next stay in a National Park.

Before we left we refilled the water tank and checked that the road we would travel on was open - it was - and set off around 9:30, bound for Miyumba Campground in the Riversleigh section of Boodjamulla National Park.

A roadside stop on the way to Riversleigh

Mary Kathleen

 29 - 30 June 2025

We left Cloncurry after visiting the Sunday markets and headed west again towards Mary Kathleen. We weren't sure whether we would stay there or not as there are no facilities at all. Instead, we thought we might return to camp at Clem Walton Park where there are toilets and a lovely creek, and drive to Mary Kathleen later in the afternoon. We've stayed at Clem Walton Park on a few earlier trips and it's a nice spot to camp for a couple of days.

On the way we stopped at Chinaman Dam - another good birding spot - to have some morning tea. The water level there was evidence of a bumper wet season. Throughout our recent travels we have noticed how green the countryside was compared to previous years, and that many rivers and creeks were flowing.

Further west we turned off the highway and took the road down to Clem Walton park - but it was in dreadful condition and we definitely didn't want to be driving in and out to Mary Kathleen. We stayed and had lunch in the picnic area but the place didn't feel quite the same, with an old guy who had set up a permanent camp right in the middle of the camping area. He probably wasn't causing any harm but combined with the state of the road we made the decision to move on.

We drove back out to the highway and on to the old Mary Kathleen town site. The former uranium mine closed in 1982 but the town site remains, minus all the buildings. It is on private property where camping is permitted. From the town site it is a short (in distance) drive to the mine site. We drove in to the campground and saw that there were lots of people camped, but still heaps of room. With a cold night forecast we drove back out to the highway to collect some firewood a few kilometres away. 

Lots of other campers but still heaps of room

Back to the campsite we chose a nice spot with a makeshift firepit that would do us nicely. Of course we were there for the birds, so later in the afternoon we drove out to the minesite. The road was rough but not as bad as the one into Clem Walton Park. We walked up to the abandoned open pit which is now filled with water. When the sun is right above the water is a beautiful shade of turquoise but late in the day is not so spectacular. Mick spent some time, unsuccessfully, searching for birds before returning to camp.

Who would have thought an old uranium mine pit
could look so pretty?

We had dinner by the fire and an early night. We weren't in a particular hurry to leave in the morning as we were only going as far as Mount Isa. Once packed up we headed west and on to our next destination.

Cloncurry

 28 - 29 June 2025

We had decided to have a night at the old Mary Kathleen town site - for the birding of course. We headed off from Boulia after another walk along the river and stopped at Dajarra for lunch. From there we took the turn-off to Duchess which would have us on mostly gravel roads, but would be a bit shorter than going through Mount Isa.

When we rejoined the Flinders Highway we made a quick decision to head east the short distance to Cloncurry instead of west to Mary Kathleen. It was our 40th wedding anniversary the following day and we thought a pub meal and a night in a motel would be a nice way to celebrate, given our remote location.

We drove around town and selected a motel that was walking distance from a couple of pubs and settled in. We were able to do a load of washing which was a bonus. I had a bottle of prosecco chilled and we had a couple of drinks before setting off to find a pub for dinner. The one we chose was quite crowded - which is always a good sign. The meal and service were very good.

The following morning we headed off to do some grocery shopping and then to the Visitor Information Centre where there was a market. We had a bit of a look around and walked up to the lookout which provided some great views of the area. From there we headed west towards Mary Kathleen.

Fossils on display at the Visitor Centre in Cloncurry

Boulia

 26 - 28 June 2025

After an early start we returned to Lark Quarry for another serach for the Opalton grasswren before setting off towards Boulia. We plotted a course that would take us along some minor roads, goimg via Old Cork. The roads were in surprisingly good condition and we only took one wrong turn. Fortunately we reaslised before we had gone too far and were able to back-track to get ourselves on the right road.

We eventually rejoined the Kennedy Developmental Road and stopped at a rest area to have some lunch, the continued on to Boulia. We checked in to the caravan park and chose a nice shady spot by the Burke River. There was a lot more water in the river than there had been on our last couple of visits.

Late afternoon by the Burke River

This photo shows the same river in 2017 -
such a contrast!

Mick had a birding spot to check out so headed off for an early morning session, while I did some packing up. When he returned we decided to spend an extra day so unpacked again. We both went out in the afternoon but the target birds proved to be elusive. 

We took the opportunity to do some restocking while we were in "town" and also walked down by the river, making this a very pleasant and convenient place to stay. 

After a bit of deliberation we decided to head towards Mary Kathleen via Dajarra - but changed our minds along the way.

Little Jack - near Lark Quarry

 25 - 26 June 2025

We left Opalton and set off for Lark Quarry. We had checked the map and discovered we could cut across country rather than going back into Winton, which made for a much shorter journey. After a short stop for lunch along the way, and a spot of birding, we arrived just on 1:00pm. Bronwyn and John were still there having taken part in the 11:00am tour. They were having some lunch before setting off on one of the harder walks. We treated ourselves to an ice cream and walked up to the lookout. We spent some time looking at the information displays in the visitor centre while we waited for our tour.

The building protects the precious trackway

As luck would have it we were the only two people booked in for 2:00pm so we had a truly personalised tour. Once again, our guide was knowledgeable and we found it fascinating. The trackway has not been fully excavated so no-one knows what else might be hidden.

Big footprints amongst the little one

After time at the Trackway we set off to do some birding down near the airstrip and Telstra tower before continuing on to find where Bronwyn and John had camped for the night. They had sent their location in "what three words" format so, apart from initially missing the turnoff, it was quite easy to locate them.

Little Jack is a free camp in the true sense of the term - nothing there, just a clearing in the bush. We arrived just as the sun went down, so set up quickly and used the last of the timber we collected the day before to start a fire. After some drinks by the fire, we had an easy dinner from the freezer  and an early night.

We made a snap decision in the morning to get up early, pack up and go back to Lark Quarry for one last attempt to photograph the Opalton grasswren. We packed up as quietly as we could, but still woke the others. We said our goodbyes and headed off. We were going to take the Old Cork Road that is just north of Lark Quarry so it wasn't too far out of the way to go back.