Wednesday, 30 October 2024

Eumungerie


29 – 30 October 2024

We left Inverell and travelled through Bingara, Narrabri and Coonabarabran before stopping to look again at our options for an overnight stop. We called into one small town and had a quick look, but decided to keep on going for a bit longer. By the time we reached Eumungerie we were ready to stop and the community campground at the recreation ground seemed to have everything we needed – power, showers and toilets, as well as a pub with walking distance.


Eumungerie was a good "low cost" camp

We don’t often eat out and the opportunity to walk to the pub - The Drover's Dog -  for a meal is always appealing. We found a cosy hotel with very friendly locals and a decent menu. The meals were good so the walk was worth it. We wandered home and settled in for a quiet night.

While we were at Eumungerie we received at text message from Ravenshoe friends Rob and Cheryl, checking in on us. By some amazing coincidence they were at Lake Cargelligo. They hadn’t planned on going there and had no idea we were headed there the next day. The stayed an extra night so we could meet up and share our travellers tales.

Tuesday, 29 October 2024

Inverell

26 – 29 October 2024

We left Girraween and crossed the border back into New South Wales, and adjusted back to Daylight Saving time. We fuelled up in Tenterfield where we found the cheapest diesel around then stopped for lunch at Swanbrook Rest Area, a spot on the river with picnic tables and toilet.

We have visited Inverell a few times and always take the opportunity to catch up with birding friends Ian and Judy. We chose a caravan park on the Macintyre River which is quite close to town. Our site was at the back of the park, with the river behind us. There is easy access through a locked gate, to the lovely walk along the river where Mick did a bit of birding. We even did a bit of spotlighting on the bridge near the caravan park when we thought we heard an owl not too late one night.

There's some good birding right in town

On our first night there we went over to Ian and Jude’s for drinks and then stopped on the way back at the Finale Evening of the Sapphire City Festival. There was entertainment, food trucks and market stalls so we wandered around and bought some dinner before heading back to the caravan park.

We went for a short drive to Lake Inverell where we walked along the walking track to a spot where there was some potential for bird photos. The lake and parklands look to be a very popular destination with plenty of parking and all the expected facilities.

As always, we hadn’t really decided where we would go to next, but had a plan to head towards Lake Cargelligo. We set the GPS for Lake Cargelligo with a couple of potential overnight stops in mind.

Saturday, 26 October 2024

Girraween National Park – Terrawambella Campground

23 – 26 October 2024

We have stayed at Girraween National Park before and wanted to go back so we booked a couple of nights at Terrawambella Campground. Significant bushfire damage had occurred since we last visited and one of the campgrounds has been closed, and replaced with two new ones. Terrawambella wasn’t our first choice but it was the only one where we could get consecutive nights with a possibility of extending. We initially booked two nights, but extended to three after the first night.

Another stunnning sunset - view from the campground

We travelled north from Tenterfield, back into Queensland with another change of time zones, and arrived quite early. At Girraween, a booking is made for the campground only and you can choose your site when you arrive. Being a new campground there weren’t many big trees, but the sites were quite large, with garden beds separating them. It will be really nice when the plants and trees grow.

We chose a site close to the amenities with some shade and a fabulous view of the surrounding mountains. The amenities were new, with flushing toilets, a washing up area and an accessible toilet cubicle where it is possible to BYO shower. There was also a communal firepit which can be used at certain times of the year. There is also easy access to most of the walks in the park, and a short drive to others.

Our favourite walk is the Bald Rock Creek Circuit – an easy 2 km walk with lots of trees and plants that are is flower at this time of year, with many different types of birds. We walked this track a number of times, at different times of day. Mick also walked it alone a couple of times.

We also walked the short Wyberba Walk with its views of the creek and access to a swimming hole as well as the Granite Arch Walk, a 1.6km slightly more challenging Grade 3 walk.  We went on a short walk from Castle Rock Campground too – looking for particular birds of course.

One morning we drove the short distance to the Doctor Roberts Carpark and walked to Doctor Roberts Waterhole and added the Underground Creek Walk as well, both worth the walk, even though it was quite a warm day. Later that day we became aware of the possibility of a storm, but with only patchy internet access at the campsite, we weren’t sure exactly where it would hit, or the intensity. We had a nervous night with thunder and lightning right over the top of us. There was so much close lightning we went and sat in the car during the worst of it.

The next morning one of the rangers came by to advise that there was a fire in the park, started by lightning, but that evacuations were not necessary to that time. Parks staff would continue to monitor the situation and provide advice if things changed. The fire had caused the closure of the Doctor Roberts Waterhole and Underground Creek walks. We were glad we had been able to get there the day before.

After three nights and heaps of walking we needed to pack up and move on – this time to Inverell.

Wednesday, 23 October 2024

Tenterfield

20 – 23 October 2024

We left O’Reillys and drove back through Canungra, Beaudesert and Boonah, then back onto the Cunningham Highway. We collected the camper trailer from the caravan park in Warwick and then stopped at a small free campground at Dalveen to have a quick lunch. While we were there we decided to make Tenterfield our next stop so we called to book a site at the caravan park we have stayed at a couple of times before. 

We then continued on towards the New South Wales Border where we crossed into a daylight savings time zone. Queensland steadfastly refuses to adopt daylight savings which makes it very difficult for those living and working near and across the borders.

We arrived in Tenterfield and set up on a very nice spot with some bushes and trees around, and easy access to the amenities. We stay in Tenterfield when we can because Mick has been given access to a great birding spot on private property which is looked after by a local group. Staying fairly close by allows him to get out there early in the morning and go back again for a late afternoon session as well. We had intended to stay for two nights but extended to three. It’s good that we have the flexibility to do this.

While we were in Tenterfield we restocked again – we can’t really carry too much – and started to plan our next destination – Girraween National Park.

There are a couple of nice drives
which give great views of the area


Sunday, 20 October 2024

O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat

17 – 20 October 2024

We’ve stayed at O’Reilly's a couple of times before and really like this little piece of paradise. The birding is fabulous, the accommodation is excellent and the breakfasts are amazing. Add the proximity to the Lamington National Park and all its walks and you have an almost ideal spot to spend a few days – we think so anyway. We managed to book a three night package which included accommodation, breakfast and afternoon tea daily, early morning bird walk every day, and a nocturnal tour.

We set off from Warwick and stopped to look for the bellbirds near Cunningham’s Gap again, before a picnic lunch at Canungra. From there it was up the windy road to O’Reillys. We arrived in time to settle in and join the afternoon welcome talk, which included a glass of sparkling wine. What a lovely way to start our break from camping.

We had already booked the nocturnal tour for the following night and booked the bird walks when we arrived. I nominated for the first morning, but Mick put his name down for all three mornings because the birding was the reason we had come here.

We had packed some picnic type food to be able to have some meals in our room but we decided to have dinner on our first night at the bar. After watching the sun setting over the ranges we wandered over and found a spot near to the open fire. Even though it was October in Queensland, the nights up on the mountain were quite cool. We shared a pizza and had a couple of drinks. There is a restaurant as well for evening meals as well as a café for lunches and snacks.

The view from our room at sunset

We rose early to join the bird walk on our first morning and set off with quite a large group. There was a new guide who was just “learning the ropes” as well as an experienced guide. Most people who come to O’Reillys have at least some interest in birds, and many are complete novices so it is fun to see the excitement when they are introduced to various species they know little or nothing about.

Following the bird walk we headed for the dining room and the best buffet breakfast you could imagine. It seems like all dietary needs and preferences are catered for and there is a huge variety of fresh, baked and cooked items from which to choose, including porridge which was very popular on a cool morning. Eggs can be cooked to your liking and the toast machine is in constant use with a variety of breads on offer.

We spent our time at O’Reillys walking the tracks close to the guesthouse – sometimes together and sometimes Mick went out on his own. He went on the bird walks on the flowing two mornings and wandered off away from the group to get better photos, as many of the more serious birders do. Each morning he spent a bit longer out with the birds while I slept in and waited to join him for breakfast.

Although we had been on the bird walks on previous visits we had never been on the nocturnal tour so this would be a new experience. We waited at the meeting spot and set off with the group for a walk along one of the main easy tracks nearby. We were both a bit disappointed that the guide spotted some creatures but didn’t really ensure all members of the group were able to get a look. He also talked a lot to those closest to him, forgetting there were others there.

After the walk we jumped onto the bus, and things started to look up. We drove down the Duck Creek Road, which is closed to through traffic these days, and made a number of stops along the way. Mick was particularly keen to see a Marbled Frogmouth and he was very excited when our guide indicated one very close by. We had brought our best torch with us and Mick was able to get some excellent photos of it in the spotlight. That made up for our earlier feeling of disappointment. We also stopped to look at frogs and snakes (which were hidden between the rocks).

After a final hearty breakfast and another walk on the nearby tracks we finished packing up and started the journey back down the windy road towards Canungra and then on to Warwick to collect the camper trailer.


Thursday, 17 October 2024

Warwick

15 – 17 October 2024

Some weeks before, we had decided to book a few nights at O’Reillys and needed to find somewhere not too far away to store the trailer. Calling ahead to the caravan park in Warwick, we were advised that they would be able to do that for us at no charge if we stayed before or after, so that’s where we went.

We stopped on the way to do some birding at a picnic spot near Cunningham’s Gap. When we pulled in off the highway, we realised we had been there before. We could hear the bellbirds but they were well hidden in the bush.

Continuing on we stopped at a nearby rest area for lunch but quickly changed our minds as a heavy shower of rain arrived at the same time as we did. By the time we reached Maryvale the rain had passed so we turned off the highway and had lunch in a park on the edge of town. From there it was a short drive into Warwick where we settled in to the caravan park.

I had a problem with a tooth a couple of days before and had managed to book an appointment with a local dentist so that was the highlight of my afternoon. We spent the next day sorting and repacking so that we would have all we needed when we went to O’Reillys and so the camper trailer would be tidy when we left it. We did some shopping for the essentials we would need for the next few days and had everything sorted ready to head off in the morning.

Early morning mist over the paddock
at the back of the caravan park

We packed the trailer up and moved it to the storage spot within the caravan park and then set off for three nights at O’Reilly's.

Tuesday, 15 October 2024

Hardings Paddock

13 – 15 October 2024

We left Chinchilla and headed towards a birding spot near Jondaryan. We stopped in Dalby to do some shopping and then continued on to a back road just out of Jondaryan. We knew we had the right spot when we saw other vehicles parked on the road nearby. Mick spent a fair while looking and then we drove back into Jondaryan for lunch.

We had booked our campsite at Hardings Paddock, and we weren’t too far away so we returned to the birding spot after lunch for another go. From there it was on to the motorway towards Toowoomba and then Ipswich. Fortunately we didn’t have to go right into Ipswich and, because it was a Sunday afternoon,  the traffic wasn’t too bad. We turned off the motorway and travelled on to Hardings Paddock.

This campground is managed by the Ipswich Council and is accessed via a locked gate. Bookings are essential, and the gate code is provided with the booking confirmation. There are toilets and picnic facilities in the campground as well as in the adjacent extensive day use area. There are a number of walking tracks as well as a couple of small dams.

We stayed for two nights and Mick enjoyed the birding opportunities. On the morning we were leaving, another of Mick’s birding friends who lives nearby, came down for a visit and they went out for a walk together while I did some packing up.

We left Hardings Paddock, another great spot, and started the journey to Warwick which would be a pit-stop rather than a destination.

Sunday, 13 October 2024

Chinchilla

11 – 13 October 2024

We decided to stay in Chinchilla for no other reason than we had never stayed there before. We had made a visit to the Emergency Department of the local hospital in 2015 when Mick cut his finger very badly, but had chosen to keep moving on that time. We chose a caravan park at Rubern Lagoons that we had seen on YouTube and which looked a bit more to our liking than the caravan parks in towns. On arrival we called the caretaker as required and were shown to a great spot right by the water. There was even a firepit!

A quiet spot not far from town

Across the lake we could see the preparations being made for a function the following evening. Despite this we decided to stay for two nights anyway. We spent some time on Saturday exploring the area but mostly we relaxed – and Mick took photos of the birds that hung around the water.

The function on Saturday night was a ladies only fundraiser for the local kindy. Although we could hear all the announcements, music and laughter, we didn't find it intrusive at all. Judging by what we heard of the auction, a huge amount of money was raised. I’m fairly certain the early start – 2pm – and a very busy bar, helped considerably. I imagine there might have been a few sore heads in the morning too.

We left on Sunday morning, heading for another birding spot Mick had been told about, with a stop at Jondaryan for lunch and more birding.

Friday, 11 October 2024

Glenmorgan – Myall Park Botanic Gardens

7 – 11 October 2024

After leaving Carnarvon Gorge we finally decided that our next few nights would be at Myall Park Botanic Gardens in the Western Downs region. I had stumbled across it on WikiCamps some time ago and marked it as a possibility, and Mick had been told about it by a birding friend. We called ahead and spoke to the Caretaker, Jeff. He told us to call when we arrived, which we did.

We were both quite surprised at the great set-up at Myall Park. Jeff met us at the visitor centre/office and told us about the two sections of campground, and the facilities available. We chose where we would like to be and he took us over to find a site that would be right for us – as much shade as possible as some quiet warm days were forecast. There is an eco-toilet in this section, and it’s only a short walk to the main toilet/shower block adjacent to the "caravan" section.

Myall Park turned out to be a fabulous spot and we extended our planned 2 nights to four. There were some fellow birders camped nearby who just happened to know the friend who had put us onto this place. Birding really is small world!

Mick enjoyed mornings and afternoons at the bird hide, and despite the heat and a big storm, we had a great time. This is another place that was quite a surprise, and one we will likely return to at some stage.

We could see the storm approach
and were able to prepare

Needing to keep moving on, we set off for another spot we had heard about, this time in Chinchilla.

Monday, 7 October 2024

Carnarvon Gorge

5 – 7 October 2024

We headed south and made a stop in Clermont for morning tea at Hood’s Lagoon. This is a favourite spot to take a break – there are picnic tables, toilets and a lovely walk along the lagoon with the added bonus of some birding opportunities. It is also very easy to access when towing. From there we made another stop in Capella to pick up some supplies, then on to Emerald where we stopped for lunch.

We still hadn’t decided where we wanted to stay next, but we both agreed we wanted to find somewhere nice. There was a long weekend coming up so that would limit our options. After lunch in a park, we took out the map and decided that a detour to Carnarvon Gorge would be nice. I rang and was able to book a powered site for a couple of nights. Although we would have preferred to stay in the national park itself, that campground is only open during school holidays.

We continued on and turned off for Carnarvon Gorge south of Rolleston. The caravan park wasn’t as crowded as we thought it might be, but there were still plenty of people there. We settled on to a site not far from the creek. We opted not to go on the Gorge Walk – neither of us felt fit enough to tackle the almost 20km hike – so instead we took the shorter Mickey Creek Walk. At around 3.5 km it was a leisurely stroll which we very much enjoyed.

There's some lovely short walks in the National Park

We had easy access to the creek adjacent to the caravan park so we did a fair bit of walking along looking for birds. There is a swimming hole, but it looked a bit murky and not terribly inviting.  Once again, we weren’t really sure where we would stay next so we made our way back to the highway and travelled further south while we made up our minds.

 

Saturday, 5 October 2024

Belyando Crossing

4 – 5 October 2024

Well rested from soaking in the thermal pools, we packed up and started our long journey south towards Tasmania. We chose to take the inland route as it’s much less busy, and there are some interesting places to stop – unfortunately our first night would not fit into that category.

We left Innot Hot Springs with a view to staying overnight at Charters Towers, with a lunch stop at Greenvale along the way. We pulled in to a free camp on Fletcher Creek that we had read about. We had planned this as an overnight stop, but decided against it. It was still reasonably early in the day and all the shady spots were taken. There were some over the other side of the creek, across the road, but they were a very long way from the toilets. What was left was really just an open paddock – not very appealing – so we decided to press on.

We refuelled in Charters Towers and continued along the Gregory Developmental Road, arriving at Belyando Crossing late in the day. We checked in to the caravan park attached to the roadhouse and made our way to the unpowered section “down the back”. There were no marked sites, nothing near level and a very untidy area. To cap off the disappointment, the amenities were not in great condition, nor were they as clean as they should have been. The place was so awful, I didn't even take a photo!

Definitely not photo-worthy

We were up early the next morning, ready to move on, and vowing never to stay here again.

Friday, 4 October 2024

Innot Hot Springs

3 – 4 October 2024

We left Etty Bay and drove back towards Atherton, making a morning tea stop at Henrietta Creek which we had to abandon due to the number of march files intent on biting us. We stopped at the park in Millaa Millaa instead.

We were aware of bushfires in the area near Innot Hot Springs
so called ahead to make sure we wouldn’t be bothered by smoke. We stopped for lunch at Millstream Falls and went for a walk down to the falls lookout.

It's only a short walk down to the lookout
at Millstream Falls

We drove on through recently burnt scrub but did not see any active fires that afternoon. The attraction at Innot Hot Springs is, of course, the springs which bubble up in the creek, at sometimes extremely hot temperatures. The caravan park has taken advantage of this natural phenomenon and created a series of small swimming and plunge pools of varying temperatures. These are available at no extra charge for park guests, and day visitors can pay to use the facility.

Once we had chosen a site and settled in we wandered over for the first of a number of dips. Therapeutic value aside, moving between the pools at various temperatures was a great way to spend the afternoon and evening.

The following morning we packed up again and set off down the Gregory Developmental Road on our way south.

Thursday, 3 October 2024

Etty Bay

1 – 3 October 2024

We’ve been to Etty Bay a number of times, including earlier on this trip and each time we hope to see Cassowaries. Although we have seen one on the road beyond the range twice in recent years, we haven’t seen one on the beach for many years, so Mick was more then a little anxious this time. He really wanted to add one to his "year list" for 2024 and this would be his last chance.

We settled on to a nice site with across from the beach. Most people there were hoping for a cassowary sighting and there were a number of other serious bird photographers camped around the park. Everyone was very helpful and it was easy to tell when one of the resident birds made an appearance as people started moving in the same direction as word spread. We were all quite excited to see such a magnificent and striking bird close up, moving around the beach and campground quite confidently.

It's pretty exciting to see a cassowary up close

We stayed for two nights and were treated to multiple sightings, including of a dad with his chick. Mick was very pleased to finally get the sort of photos he had been after. Even if he hadn’t, Etty Bay is still a really nice place to spend a couple of nights.

We had been trying to work out which way we would travel on our way south and decided to go back up though the Atherton Tablelands and along the inland route. Our first overnight stop would be Innot Hot Springs.

 

Tuesday, 1 October 2024

Atherton

30 September – 1 October 2024

We headed over to Atherton and took an unpowered site for the night at the same caravan park where we had stayed in the cabin. The unpowered sites are beautifully situated adjacent to the nearby creek and bushland. Being so close to Hasties Swamp, Mick just had to visit again. I also took the opportunity to do some grocery shopping, ready for a number of days away from major centres.

A lovely spot by the creek

We took our time leaving Atherton as the drive to Etty Bay would only take about 1 ½ hours and we didn’t want to arrive too early.