Gulf Loop

Greenvale

Thursday 3 September 2020

After months at home – first during the enforced lockdown due to Covid-19, and then because I had picked up a job when everyone else was losing theirs, we were finally on the road again. Interstate travel was out of the question still, so we planned a loop that would take us up the Gulf (of Carpentaria) and back, revisiting some favourite spots, and exploring some new ones.

 We had planned to leave on Friday morning, but realised we were ready to go so we left on Thursday afternoon instead – with an overnight stop in Greenvale. I used to visit Greenvale for work in another century so it was a nice opportunity to return as a tourist. We drove from Townsville up Hervey Range Road and joined the Gregory Developmental Road for the final leg to Greenvale.

We arrived to be greeted warmly and invited to pick a spot - which we did. After a quick set up for an overnighter without the awning, we set off for a cold drink at the famous “Three Rivers Hotel”. Fans of Slim Dusty would be familiar with the tale of the now defunct mining town. Little is left of the once booming town – but the beer was cold and the locals friendly so you couldn’t ask for much more.

In the morning we went for a walk around the town – didn’t take long, but we did discover a “free book” display at the community centre. I grabbed a book by one of my favourite authors and felt bad that I didn’t have something to leave behind – maybe next time. We topped up with fuel and set off for our next stop – Undara Experience.

 

Undara – Undara Experience – Undara Lava Tubes

Friday 4 September 2020

We had booked in advance as we knew this was a popular spot – and we were glad we had. Tourism is alive and well at Undara despite the challenges brought about by a global pandemic. The place was not full, but not far from it.

In this dry country every drop of water counts

We spent the afternoon enjoying the bush setting – and a swim in the pool before having dinner in the bistro. There are tours available but we opted to just do our own thing this time. A number of walks depart from the “lodge” while another interesting walk around the rim of a crater is located a few kilometres away.

The dining area with its converted railway carriages

A great view of the bush

In the morning we set off early to walk the “Swamp” track and in the late afternoon we walked the “Bluff” track. The swamp was mostly dry but from the top of the bluff we were rewarded with a great view of the campground and surrounding area. The afternoon was very hot so we also fitted in another swim – a very welcome relief.

We saw a few White-throated and Banded Honeyeaters on this walk.

Juvenile Banded Honeyeater

Kapok flowers

A kapok tree in flower on the the bluff walk

The view looking down on the resort

We departed Undara on Sunday morning intending to take a route we hadn’t driven before. Instead of driving all the way along the Savannah Way to Normanton, we detoured to Einasleigh, just because we’d never been there before.

 

Einsasleigh

Sunday 6 September 2020

The road from the Savannah Way to Einasleigh was mostly unsealed, windy and crossed a number of (now) dry gullies that would probably present significant challenges in the wet season. The main attraction in this little town is Copperfield Gorge. We arrived around lunch time and settled in to the small caravan park to wait for the temperature to drop before setting off for the gorge.

Late in the afternoon, although still hot, we ventured down into the gorge. The geology is interesting and there looked to be a number of spots where it would be possible to have a swim. We spent much of the time scrambling over rocks to get a good look at the features. The legs certainly felt it, especially after the previous day's climb up the Bluff at Undara. We don’t exercise much when we’re at home, but we sure do when we travel.

Copperfield Gorge

We walked up to the local pub for dinner – a reasonable roast chicken meal for $10. Returning to camp we considered where our next stop would be, and decided to skip Forsayth and the magnificent Cobbold Gorge and head straight to Georgetown, then on to Cumberland Dam.

 

 Cumberland Chimney

Monday 7 September 2020

We headed off towards Forsayth, along a mostly sealed road, then on to Georgetown where we stocked up on some supplies and fuel, then drove the short distance on to Cumberland Dam / Chimney.

Arriving at the chimney

 

This is a well-known spot for bird watchers, but is also a popular free camp spot for caravanners. Last time we visited we didn’t stay as there were no facilities, but in recent years the council has constructed toilets which we very much appreciated. It was hot and windy when we arrived so we chose a spot that would provide some shelter from the wind, although there was little shade. We had to rely on what the awning and camper trailer could provide.

The dam had some good birds but there were not so many in the surrounding bush

Mick spent most of the time up at the dam photographing birds, while I was content to sit in the shade with a good book. We initially thought we might spend 2 nights, but in the end we settled for one. It was just too hot to enjoy the surroundings. 

Latham's Snipe was a surprise visitor as I sat quietly by the water

Early morning Australian Pelican

Comb-crested Jacana

Juvenile Comb-crested Jacana

Green Pygmy-goose

Intermediate Egret

Little Pied Cormorant drying its wings

Sadly waterbirds weren't the only creatures drawn to the dam

We had a leisurely pack up and then set off for Leichhardt Lagoon, another spot we had camped at previously.

 

Leichhardt Lagoon 

Tuesday 8 September 2020

Leaving Cumberland Dam we drove west towards Croydon where we had a short stop, then headed out to Lake Belmore for a picnic lunch. This looked like a nice spot and even had a bird hide! Unfortunately it was located in the most ridiculous spot, the view obscured by vegetation, too far from the lake, and with the walk to the hide in full view of any birds on the lake. Such a good idea, poorly executed.

Sunset over Leichhardt Lagoon

Little Egret having fish for breakfast

White-necked Heron

Straw-necked Ibis

Magpie Goose

 

From Croydon we drove on to Leichhardt Lagoon, a nice spot for an overnighter, or longer. With camp sites right on the lagoon (but not too close) and bush sites, this is a lovely spot for relaxing, It’s a bit rustic, but does have hot showers and flushing toilets. It’s very popular with fishers and is great value at $8 per person per night.

It was still hot, and we had to chase the shade but it was all worth it for the sunset over the lagoon. We were satisfied with just one night, and set off in the morning for Normanton.

 

Normanton

Wednesday 9 and Thursday 10 September 2020

We had overnighted in Normanton but had never stayed to explore so we decided on 2 nights, before moving on to our booked accommodation at Kurumba. We had a look at both caravan parks and chose the one just out of town for the shade. They also had a nice looking swimming pool which we tried out several times.

We called in to the Visitor Information Centre to ask about birdwatching spots and were told about Mutton Hole Wetlands Conservation Park. Just out of town, this is part of the largest continuous estuarine wetland aggregation of its type in northern Queensland – but of course at this time of year it wasn’t very wet. We ventured down late in the afternoon to have a look and found a number of tracks that provided good access to the remaining water on both sides of the road. We found a shady spot and spent some time watching (and photographing) the local birdlife. We revisited in the morning and following afternoon as well.

 

The Norman River

This Black Kite perched in a tree at the caravan park

We visited Mutton Hole Wetlands a few times and it was always teeming with life

Trumpeting Brolga

Brolga

Sarus Cranes

Sharp-tailed Sandpiper

Whistling Kite

 

After stocking up on a few essentials, we headed for a Karumba and three days of comparative luxury in a holiday unit.

 

Karumba

11 – 14 September 2020

The drive to Karumba is only 71 kilometres so we took our time packing up after another visit to Mutton Hole Wetlands. Arriving at our accommodation before lunch we were pleased to be able to check in early. We had plans for a relaxing afternoon, which included a swim, and then dinner at the Sunset Tavern – a must do when in Karumba. Sunset over the water is a real novelty for those of us who live on the east coast, and the pub is usually crowded with tourists at this time.

It's one of the best ever places to have dinner

We had managed to book onto the early morning bird cruise with Karumba Boatman so drove from our accommodation at the Point to the boat ramp and jetty in town. We had been on this tour before so knew what to expect. We spent a couple of hours on the Norman River looking for, and photographing some of the local birds. 

The bird cruise was good but expensive.White-bellied Sea-eagle

Juvenile male White-breasted Whistler having crab for morning tea

The same Juvenile male White-breasted Whistler giving us good views

This adult male White-breasted Whistler was a difficult target deep in the mangroves

Immature Red-headed Honeyeater

The highlight of the cruise for me was this Broad-billed Flycatcher. A new bird for me!

 

After our tour we drove on to the Visitor Information Centre at the Les Wilson Barramundi Discovery Centre. Tours of the centre are available but we chose to wander through the free part of the exhibit. Information in the centre is presented in a variety of media and formats and is well worth a visit. On the way home we stopped to buy some fresh, local prawns – how could you not! They were absolutely delicious too.

Pretending to catch a barra at the Les Wilson Barramundi Discovery Centre

We returned to our accommodation and had another swim before setting of to drive along the track that runs parallel to the beach. Mick was hoping to get close to some mangroves but there wasn’t much birdlife about. We returned to the accommodation for dinner of local fish and chips which I can thoroughly recommend.

My favourite shot from Karumba Point is this Australian Bustard taking off from the airport runway

 

Mick spent a few sessions on the tracks that run between Karumba Point and the town. We also walked part the way along the walking track that joins the two – but as advised by the lady at the Visitor Information Centre – it was very hard to determine which track to take when starting at the Point end. It was a nice walk anyway.

Rufous Banded Honeyeater

Rainbow Bee-eaters

We found this male Mistletoebird in a sheoak on the beach

White-breasted Woodswallow

Rufous Whistler

While we were in Karumba we investigated an alternate route to our next destination and decided to try the road that would take us through Burketown – not only did it appear a shorter route, but we’d never been that way before. Mick made one last excursion to the river before we set off.

We stopped in Normanton to refuel and buy a few essentials. Before leaving, we stopped for a photo of Krys the Croc, an artist’s impression of the largest saltwater crocodile captured in the world. Shot by Krystina Pawlowski in 1957, the real crocodile measured 8.63m. It’s worth taking a few minutes to visit and reflect on what could be lurking in the nearby waterways. It was then on the road to Burketown.

A representation of the largest recorded Saltie in the world

They breed them tough in this part of the world

 

Burketown

14 – 15 September 2020

We rejoined the Savannah Way just out of Normanton headed for Burketown. There is nothing much in between the two places and we struggled to find a nice spot to stop for lunch. Eventually we found a shady tree off the road and stopped there. There were lots of road works so the journey took longer than it might have but we still arrived in Burketown with plenty of time to explore.

After checking in at the caravan park, we called in to the Visitor Information Centre and then set off to the newly upgraded wharf on the Albert River. The pontoon has been designed to accommodate the massive rise in the river level which occurs during the wet season each year. Camping is allowed in this, and several other areas within the vicinity, but a permit much be obtained from the Visitor Information Centre or online. 

The wharf on the Albert River (and a thumb over the lens)

 

Rufous-throated Honeyeaters were about and so were lots of sandflies

 

From the wharf we drove over to the other side of town to have a look at the Burketown Bore. Completed in 1897 the water has been deemed not suitable for drinking, domestic use or irrigation. The water flows out of the bore at a great rate, creating a wetland environment. The build-up of minerals from the artesian water over the years has created an interesting environment. Don’t stand too close – even within a couple of metres I could smell the sulphur and feel the heat.  Of course Mick took a good walk around looking for birds.

Burketown Bore

First thing in the morning I returned to the bore with my throw over hide and tripod. I found a couple of sticks in shallow water with trees not far away. Experience told me that this is the type of area small birds like to drink. I'd seen lots of Crimson Finches flying past at the caravan park and it was them I really hoped to photograph. Sadly no finches came in to drink but I did have another Latham's Snipe land close by. A pair of Radjah Shelducks approached very closely as well. Mick

Latham's Snipe, wondering what all the clicking is

Radjah Shelduck

Wood Sandpiper. This bird was very wary, keeping its distance and not hanging around

There were plenty of Agile Wallabies around

We headed off in the morning for Adel’s Grove where we had booked a campsite for a couple of nights.

 

Adel’s Grove 

15 – 17 September 2020

We drove out of Normanton on the Savannah Way and turned off onto the Wills Developmental Road towards Gregory. The road was exceptionally good for this part of the country – well sealed and wide. This came as quite a surprise. We stopped at Gregory and drove down to the river for lunch. This is a very popular free camp spot and was quite crowded but we did manage to find some shade. There are no facilities here so campers much be self-contained.

Olive-backed Oriole near the loo at Gregory

A beautiful spot for lunch but it's been crowded every time we've come through

After lunch we travelled the remaining 88km to Adel’s Grove. We had booked a site in the top campground as we would be relying on solar power while we were there. The Grove is closer to the creek, but is very shady and so unsuitable for us – there are also lots of low hanging branches which are not great when you have a hard-floor camper trailer. We were able to choose our own site in the campground and chose one with some shade, close to the amenities, and beside one of the access paths to the creek. 

Arafura fantail down by the river

Collared sparrowhawk plucking its prey not far from our camp

Northern Fantail

I put a bowl of water out next to our camp and this Northern Rosella came to drink straight away

Buff-sided Robins are easily found

Yellow-tinted Honeyeater also came down for a drink

Not as good a shot as I'd hoped of this Crimson Finch

 

We spent a relaxing couple of days at Adel’s Grove. A minor leg injury made walking somewhat painful and difficult, so I spent much of the time relaxing with a good book while Mick wandered the extensive grounds looking for birds. I was, however, able to hobble down to the creek for a few swims, and up to the bar for an afternoon drink!

A fire several years ago destroyed some of the main buildings and, as is often the case in remote areas, temporary replacements are still in place. The bar and bistro consists of a lovely deck and shipping container buildings – quite adequate. Infrastructure is gradually being replaced with a “building site” set aside although no evidence of building works yet.

After 2 nights we set off for the short (10km) drive to Boodjamulla National Park. With no need to rush, we had a leisurely morning and left after morning tea.

 

Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park

17 – 20 September 2020

Boodjamulla would have to be my all-time favourite place to visit and camp. The national park campground is well resourced with toilets and cold showers, as well as non-potable water. The campsites are reasonably well-spaced out and many offer some shade. The ten kilometres from Adel’s Grove is always the worst of the dirt road in, but was quite manageable at an appropriate speed. Easy with the off-road camper trailer, but we also saw a number of caravans as well.

When we arrived, we drove around the campground and picked out a potential spot. Camping bookings must be made online prior to arrival, but you choose your actual spot once you get there. As we walked around just making sure we had the best spot for us, we spied a family in a caravan packing up. They confirmed that the orientation of the site allowed for afternoon shade so we waited until they left and drove into their spot as they drove out. Morning sun is ok as that is when we do most of our walking, so having afternoon shade is vital to allow for some relaxation.

Sunset from our camp

On our first morning we decided to tackle the challenging Island Stack. It’s a 4km return track but is rated “difficult” because of the steep ascent to the top of the stack. Not only is it steep, but the path is very rocky, with nothing to hold onto for much of the way. I didn’t make it – my fear of heights got the better of me and I had to retreat after only making it about half-way up. Mick continued on while I returned to the easier Cascades walk – mostly level ground and in the shade as well. Returning to the base of The Stack I decided to keep walking and complete the Wild Dog Dreaming track. This is also an easy walk and takes in an art site as well as a nice view of the lower gorge. All up I walked about 4.5km while Mick was on his much harder walk. By chance, we met up just after the river crossing on the way back to the campground. We couldn’t have timed it so perfectly if we had tried.

 

Christie went off to the Lower Gorge and the Wild Dog Dreaming track.

 

 

The Island Stack

 

An encounter with a dragon (Ring-tailed Dragon?) on the Island stack

Another new bird for me, the Sandstone Shrike-thrush

Red-collared Lorikeet

One of the specialties of the area, Purple-crowned Fairywren (male)

Purple-crowned Fairywren (female)

Bar-shouldered Doves were very common

Red-tailed Black Cockatoo feeding on eucalypt seeds

 

The rest of the day was very hot – over 30 degrees – so we spent much of it swimming in Lawn Hill Creek. We had brought the pool noodles with us, and enjoyed just floating around in the cool water. The creek is deep and there is nowhere to stand so a floatation device allows you to spend much more time in the water that if you had to keep yourself afloat.

This is the way to do swimming

We decided to get up early again the next morning and walk up to Indarri Falls for a swim. There is an easy way, and a more difficult way so we chose to go up and back on the easy track. We have walked the harder route before and the views of the gorge were fabulous, but we really just wanted to get to the swimming hole this time. We were the first ones there and had the place to ourselves until the first of the kayaks arrived, closely followed by the tour boat. Still, there was plenty of room for everyone and we enjoyed a long, cool swim.

We're the first people there

Happy days

Archerfish were very common and friendly

Swimming at Indarri Falls

 

We walked back to camp the easy way, and spent the rest of the day in and out of the water – it reached 36° so we didn’t feel much like walking anyway. There are several spots along the creek near the campground with stair or ladder entry into the water and we sampled them all. Unfortunately the temperature stayed hot with an overnight low of only 27° and it looked like the next few days would be the same. We were due to leave the next morning so checked the forecast along the route home and it didn’t look like things would be much cooler over the next couple of days either.

Richmond 

20 - 21 September 2020

After a hot and restless night we packed up and left Boodjamulla National Park quite early, intending to travel as far as we could, and hopefully find some cooler weather. We drove back through Gregory and stopped for a cuppa, then on to Burke and Wills Roadhouse where we had burgers for lunch. Surprisingly good, great service and air conditioned - you couldn't ask for more. 

From there we took the direct route to Julia Creek where a fuel stop confirmed the temperature was still up in the high 30s so we decided to keep going. The BoM weather app suggested that it would be cooler in Richmond - but it was wrong. It was around 4:00pm and still high 30s so we opted to stay in a motel rather in the camper trailer. We try not to do that too often but we really needed it after the last few days.

Home

22 September 2020

We decided  we might as well just head for home rather than having another night on the road. On the way we stopped in Hughenden to have a look at the new lake development. From there it was straight to home, and some slightly cooler weather.