Daylesford and off to Tassie

Daylesford and then to Tassie

11 - 12 December 2015

We drove to Warrnambool and it continued to rain. Stopping to check out a record stall in a market place, we were assaulted by an icy cold wind - again. We didn't hang around long, and set off for Ballarat after a hot coffee and a very quick walk back to the car.

As we drove, it continued to rain - it wasn't looking good for a dry overnight stop. We had lunch at the local take-away cafe in Lismore, then arrived in Ballarat and it was still raining. The forecast map had suggested there wouldn't be any rain there so we checked the rain radar, forecasts and considered our options. Back on the road, on our way to Daylesford, we started to see clear skies. Yay! 

Once in Daylesford we checked out one caravan park, before settling on the other. We were greeted by friendly staff, and informed that firewood had been left in the stone hut for the use of campers if required. The forecast overnight temperature was 4 degrees, so we were sure it would be used.

Bright sunshine ensured the camper trailer was completely dry when we retired for the night - all rugged up against the cold. We couldn't confirm the overnight low, but my little clock/thermometer showed 6 degrees at about 2am. 

When we rose the sun was still shining - thank goodness - and we packed up as more clouds gathered. We set off for Clarkefield where we would store the camper trailer while we went to Tasmania. We found our way easily to the storage facility. We were advised that there was a big shopping centre not far away, and the GPS suggested that we were only 1/2 hour from Melbourne so we decided to spend the afternoon at the Craigieburn shopping centre. Lunch, a movie and a spot of shopping filled up the time before we needed to make our way to the Spirit of Tasmania.

We found our way to Melbourne easily enough, but navigating the freeways and on-off ramps, with the tangle of streets proved very problematic. We did get lost! Eventually we started to see familiar things and arrived at Station Pier in plenty of time.

Where's the Spirit? Easy enough to see from the Westgate Bridge but not that easy to get to.

First we queued for the quarantine inspection, then we queued to check in, then we queued to board. Eventually we made our way to our cabin, left our gear (took a sea sick tablet) and set off for a drink in the bar. The boat has been recently refurbished and the public areas are vastly improved. After a couple of drinks and a light meal, we headed back to the cabin.

The journey was fairly calm, with some higher swells just out of the heads. We both managed to sleep quite well. The ship was due to dock in Devonport at 6:00am with 6:30am disembarkation. A wake-up announcement was made at about 5:45am. We were already up, so we headed out in search of coffee.

Once off the Spirit of Tasmania, it was only a short drive to eldest daughter Julia's house in Devonport.

Halls Gap and Narrawong (Portland)

Halls Gap

7 - 9 December 2015

We left Little Desert and headed for The Grampians. Again, this is a place we had visited before - in 1991! We felt it was time to go back. We drove through Horsham and then took the windy road to Halls Gap. You can go via Stawell if you prefer, and it is recommended if you are towing a caravan, but the off-road camper trailer handled it well.

We stopped for a picnic lunch near Zumstein's and arrived at Halls Gap in the early afternoon. We settled into the caravan park - there are several to choose from - and drove the short distance into town to the visitor centre. We picked up a map but didn't stay to ask questions - the place was packed. We needed a couple of things for dinner so called into the grocery store. I had read reviews that suggested the fresh produce was sadly lacking in variety and quality, and we found this to be true on the day we were there. Such a shame.

Halls Gap must have one of the best main street views of anywhere. It is quite spectacular and is a very popular spot for tourists - unfortunately we found the tourist information to be a little like the veges - quite disappointing. We went to the National Parks office to ask about walks and wetlands, and were told about the walk behind the centre, but that there were no wetlands around. Imagine our surprise when we walked outside and saw the sign for the wetland walk - right behind the National Parks centre! Admittedly there wasn't much water but it was still a nice easy walk.

I was hoping to get some nice shots of the beautiful little Gang-gang cockatoo. The Grampians seems to be a very good place to find them. Occasionally I could hear the creaky calls of birds flying by but they would just keep going. Eventually I spotted a pair, high up in some acacias at the botanic gardens. The feeding male stayed partly hidden until I finally gave up on him. Mick.

Female Gang-gang cockatoo.

Male Gang-gang cockatoo. Not great shots but the best I could do under the circumstances.

Grey currawong.

At the suggestion of caravan park staff we drove over to Stawell to do some shopping and found  a good variety of nice fresh vegetables in the supermarket there. We also had a nice lunch in the bakery cafe. Back at Halls Gap we went to the Visitor Information Centre again and asked about walks - easy, no stairs and flat if possible, to accommodate Mick's problem knee. Again we were not offered a map showing the walks, but were told the Venus Pool walk which starts just across the road would meet our needs. I suspect the young lady has never actually been on the walk. It was quite beautiful, and Mick did manage the 2.2km loop, but it did have lots of stairs, some uneven ground and climbs. 

Venus Pools.

While we were in Halls Gap we also visited the local furniture maker. We were shown around his workshop and treated to the inside story of many of the pieces. We just might have to consider a purchase when we get home and measure up the space we have which is just waiting for something beautiful.

We left Halls Gap and travelled south through the park, enjoying more fabulous views, and on to Dunkeld and Hamilton. We spotted an op-shop on the highway at Hamilton, so stopped for a look. We then discovered that the main street was just around the corner, so we walked to a coffee shop, and bought some beautiful fresh bread at the bakery. 

Back on the road and a picnic lunch in Heyward, where we realised we had stopped on our visit earlier in the year, then on to Portland.

Narrawong (Portland)

9 - 11 December 2015

We called into the visitor centre as soon as we arrived, for information about a wetland walk and a gannet colony which Mick had read about. We also picked up some information about caravan parks. We drove out to Point Danger where the gannets can be seen. Unfortunately you can't get very close so Mick had to be satisfied with some shots from the viewing platform and from behind the fence. Then we drove to the wetland walk, but had to park outside someone's house as there is no suitable parking for this feature. Fawthrop Lagoon promised a bird hide, but we couldn't find it. We decided that we would find somewhere to stay and visit again in the morning.

When this offshore colony of Australasian gannets grew too large, some birds started to nest on the adjacent Point Danger.

Australasian gannet.

It is very disappointing that the colony is only able to be observed from a great distance. I'm sure it would be possible to protect the birds and still allow closer viewing. If you want a closer photo of a gannet you have to hope one flies past. Mick.

A great place for wind farms.

We chose the caravan park at Narrawong, about 10 minutes from Portland, and it was a good choice. The park is nestled between the ocean and creek, and is well set up, and quite large. Shortly after arriving we were alerted to a koala in a tree, not far from our spot.

Caravan park Koala.

In the morning we headed back to Fawthrop Lagoon and went for a walk part way around. It's a nice spot, but we still didn't find the promised bird hide. There are board walks and well defined paths. We also revisited the gannets before heading back into town for lunch and a look at the shops. It was a good day out.

The ubiquitous Chestnut teal

Overnight we had rain - which is not a problem except we were getting close to Melbourne, and our departure for Tasmania so we definitely didn't want to have wet canvas for our final (for a while) pack up. We had one more night so carefully considered our next overnight spot. The rain held off while we packed up and started again just as we finished. We checked the weather forecast and it looked like it would not be raining in Ballarat so we decided that might be a good place to spend the next night.

Little Desert - near Nhill

Little Desert 

4 - 7 December 2015

We have visited Little Desert Lodge twice since September last year and were keen to return. The forecast heatwave over the weekend was perfect timing for us - we could stay in a room at the lodge rather than camp, and go out walking early in the morning and late in the afternoon. The lodge has various levels of accommodation including ensuite rooms, bunk house and camping. Ensuite room guests have access to a small kitchen (microwave, toaster, jug) and a lounge area with TV.

We arrived around lunch time with the temperature already over 30 degrees, so we retreated to the air conditioned comfort until it started to cool a little later in the day. Mick spent a couple of hours down at the bird hide, before returning home for dinner.

In the morning we both headed down to the hide early and stayed until morning tea time, when it was starting to get a bit hotter. The very small hide is positioned right beside a water source so there were heaps of birds visiting.

Diamond firetail. I never tire of seeing these beautiful finches.

New Holland is a very common honeyeater in this area.

It's taken many attempts to get a decent shot of the Shy heathwren.

White-eared honeyeater are in good numbers at the hide.

Both Christie and Whimpey's pond reflecting.

Sunset over Little Desert.

Dusky woodswallow in for a drink.

Shy heathwren again on day two!

Striated Pardalote.

Tawny-crowned honeyeater.

White-plumed honeyeater.

I tried to spend as much time as possible in the hide again this visit but the extreme heat meant that this was only possible early and late in the day and late in the day it is only possible to drink beer. The light is much more even and better for photography in the morning anyway. Watching the local birds come in to drink and bathe is a wonderful entertainment and it's hard to leave, not knowing what may visit next. Will it be a Purple-gaped honeyeater?... no as it turns out... worse luck! Maybe next time! Mick.

Male Hooded Robin.

Female Hooded Robin.

Juvenile Diamond Firetail.

In late spring and early summer its common to see lots of juvenile birds around. This has certainly been the case for us on this trip. It is also common for the successful parents to look a little bedraggled, like the Hooded Robins pictured above. Finding a mate, building a nest, defending a territory and catching food for fast growing nestlings all takes a toll on the dedicated parents. Mick.

Flat out like a lizard drinking. This Stumpy-tailed lizard drank long and slow on this very hot day.

Because of the oppressive heat (above 35 degrees) we didn't do as much walking as we might have. We did go down to Whimpey's Waterhole at sunset and to Big M's Pond on Sunday afternoon. Mick spent time each morning at the hide, even getting up at sunrise on our final day. Little Desert Lodge has become a favourite spot - we just hope our next visit will be in more mild weather conditions!

We said our goodbyes and headed off to the south, through the part of the National Park that had been burnt out last year, and through the back roads to Horsham, and on to Halls Gap in the Grampians.

Hahndorf and Naracoorte

Hahndorf

30 November - 2 December 2015

We booked ahead and checked into a cabin at the caravan park in Hahndorf late in the afternoon. The temperature had dropped but the wind continued to howl. We awoke to a cold, wet, windy day. Glad we had taken the cabin option. A tourist day was in order and Hahndorf didn't disappoint. Hahndorf still retains much of the charm of its German heritage with old buildings and local produce.

We drove into town and found a number of shops didn't open early in the week, and others that didn't open until 10:00am - typical of towns that rely heavily on tourism. We dodged the rain and wandered the very long main street, ducking into many of the interesting shops. Hahndorf is a real "foodie" spot so we splashed out and bought cheese, relish, fudge, honey, German sausage (bockwurst), smoked trout and wine. That's dinner sorted for the next few days!

We spent a quiet afternoon before driving over to Norton Summit to have dinner with friends Sue and Troy. The Scenic Hotel is a lovely spot - with great views - but the drive over from Hahndorf was along winding roads.

In the morning we drove out through Mount Barker, and stopped to visit the Laratinga Wetlands. This is an absolutely beautiful spot with walking paths meandering around the various ponds and pools. There are also toilets, picnic tables and BBQs. We could have spent a lot longer there.

Australasian Shoveler female.

A Grey Teal in very shallow water.

Little Grassbird

Red-kneed Dotteral

Yellow-billed Spoonbill.

This is a wonderful wetland with lots of great birds and places to view them from. There is even a boardwalk over one pond that includes a viewing platform. I'm sure there were more that we didn't see. I would have been happy to spend a full day here but we had to do some travelling. Mick.

Back on the road, with a lunch stop in Tailem Bend. There is a nice park in town near the visitor centre that we remembered from our last visit so we made our way there. A big carpark runs along the railway line, opposite the shops, and adjacent to the visitor centre and park.

Back on the road and on to Naracoorte.


Naracoorte

2 - 4 December 2015

We had intended to stay at Bool Lagoon, just out of Naracoorte but a few reviews on "Wikicamps" suggested that it might not be a good idea so we stopped at the Visitor Information Centre on our way through Naracoorte. The answer to our query was emphatic - no water (therefore no birds)! Oh well, we decided on our fallback position - Naracoorte Caves. Armed with map, information sheet and discount coupon provided at the VIC, we drove the short distance to the caves campground. Although the reviews were good, we were disappointed. The presence of about 30 colourful sleeping bags indicating a probable school group sealed the deal. I have been on enough school camps in my working life to know that this was not the place for us.

We headed back into town and checked into the caravan park. What a good choice - we should have gone there in the first place. A big open park, not crowded, with fairly level sites and some shade. Coupled with a fantastic camp kitchen and adjacent to bushland and the swimming lake, this suited us very well. It was very windy when we set up camp in the late afternoon, so we availed ourselves of the fine facilities in the camp kitchen which included a TV!

In the morning we ventured out for a walk along the Creek Walk. This can be accessed from the rear of the caravan park and runs along the creek, and through the bush. In the other direction it goes into town. You can walk all the way around in a very big loop if you are very energetic. After our walk we drove into town to do some shopping and to visit the op-shops.

Common Bronzewing ready to drink at the creek.

Long-billed corella. These can be seen in large flocks around the park.

Female Magpie Lark. This is the tallest mud nest I've seen.

After lunch we walked along the creek walk back into town for a spot of window shopping. Later, we ventured back down for a photo session. Yet another heatwave was forecast for the weekend so we rang and booked a room at the Little Desert Nature Lodge for the next few days.

It was only about 2 hours from Natacoorte to Little Desert so we stopped in Edenhope for coffee and a few supplies, before making our way to the lodge.

Eyre Peninsula - Tumby Bay, Coffin Bay, Elliston and Kimba

Tumby Bay

25 - 26 November 2015

The wind was howling and the temperature had reached 38 degrees, so we were glad to stop in Tumby Bay and check into a cabin for the night. We felt a bit soft doing this, but there were at least three other camper trailers parked outside cabins by night time.

Tumby Bay in the morning.

Before we left in the morning we took a walk on the beach - it looks like a nice spot, shame about the wind. We decided to head to Port Lincoln and then over to Coffin Bay.

Coffin Bay

26 - 27 November 2015

We had a short drive to Port Lincoln where we stopped for coffee on the waterfront, then over to Coffin Bay by lunchtime. We stopped at the caravan park and chose a reasonably level site, close to the amenities and camp kitchen. The wind persisted so we figured it would be good to be able to use the kitchen to cook dinner.

This young Pacific gull hung around the park hoping for a hand out.

The view just across the road from the caravan park.

A sleepy Fairy tern was a new bird for me.

A Sooty oystercatcher is right at home in this area which is so famous for its oysters.

We decided to drive over to have a look at the Yangie Bay campsite in the Coffin Bay National Park, but hadn't factored in the $10 park entry fee. We considered this a waste of money just to have a look, so we went back into the town and headed out for a drive in the area. We found our way to Wangary and Mount Dutton Bay, just s short drive away. On the way back, we followed the signs to the Pig Farm and Antique Shop. What a find! The piggery and antique shop are on the same property, and the shop has an amazing collection of antiques and old wares, as well as bacon and pork products. Definitely one of the most quirky businesses we have visited for a while. A pleasant afternoon out, with some fresh bacon as well.

Australian ringneck (race zonarius) seen on the drive.

In the morning we packed up and drove the 1/2 hour to the Yangie Bay campsite. 

Yangie Bay - Coffin Bay National Park

  

27 - 28 November 2015

This National Park is one of few that has self-registration at the entrance, so we paid when we arrived, deciding on one night only. We figured we could always drive back to the pay-station and pay for another night if we decided to stay longer. Because it was only a short distance we had camp set up in time for morning tea. Then we noticed the bees. The park brochure advised that bees come looking for water in the summer, and I suppose it was close enough to 1 December that the bees thought it was already summer. We thought if we put a bucket with some water in it away from our camp, they would leave us alone. WRONG! That just seemed to attract more. It was quite unpleasant and we had to make sure there was no moisture at all, to keep them at bay. It was a losing battle and we were unable to do much with them swarming all over our things. One night only for sure!

A small flock of Brown-headed honeyeaters visited a nearby She-oak.

White-browed (spotted) scrubwren (race maculatus). These were common but where were the bee-eaters?

Yangie Bay is the only campsite in Coffin Bay National Park that can be reached by conventional vehicle - along sealed roads. All the other campsites require beach and sand dune driving, and a great deal of skill. The parks information advised that tyres must be deflated for sand driving and we weren't geared up for that. Yangie is a very pretty spot - right on the beach, and even though the sites nearest the beach are designated for tents, there was plenty of room for the camper trailer.

In this area it is possible to see species such as Western whipbird, Blue-breasted fairywren and Western yellow robin without going across the Nullabor to WA to do so. This was a good reason to include the Eyre Peninsula in our itinerary. The Western whipbird has a reputation as a very hard bird to find and not surprisingly, I dipped out. In the morning, the Western yellow robin appeared near our camp for a couple of seconds and was not seen again. Luckily I had my camera! The Blue-breasted fairywren was much more co-operative. Mick.

Blue-breasted fairywren

Western yellow robin.

Later in the afternoon we walked along the Yangie Beach Hike - 2km up to the lookout and then looping back through the bush and along the bay. It was a really nice walk, not too challenging, with lots of interpretive signage (interestingly using a "Heath Goanna" character to convey the message), and some awesome views. It would be nice to spend a few days here at a different time of year.

View from the lookout along the Yangie Beach Hike.

We packed up - dodging bees all the while - and headed into Coffin Bay for lunch. Coffin Bay oysters are available at the local cafe so of course I had some - natural. They were absolutely delicious and so fresh, needing nothing extra. Almost like eating them straight off the rocks! After lunch we headed north up the coast to have a look at some of the western peninsula towns and perhaps stay another night in this part of the state.

Elliston

28 - 29 November 2015

We stopped at Elliston (at the suggestion of a chap we had met in Quorn) and decided this pretty little spot would do for our next stop. The caravan park we chose was right on the beach - although behind the sand dunes. A walk over the dune and you are on a really nice beach. There are cabins up on the dune with great views.

There is a "Clifftop Drive" so we did the tourist thing and went out to have a look. The drive is close to town and affords some fantastic views. There are also a number of sculptures featured along the way.

Great views from the clifftop drive.

Elliston seems like a nice little town - a grocery store, bakery, pub, 2 caravan parks - just about all you could need. We stopped for groceries before heading off on Sunday morning.


Kimba

29 - 30 November 2015

We wanted to visit the Gawler Ranges, so decided to head up the coast to Streaky Bay, then across to Wudinna, but our plans changed as we drove. Our first stop was Venus Bay - what a beautiful spot! We walked out along the curved jetty where a number of people were fishing. There were quite a number of small boats (tinnies) in the bay as well. Fishing is obviously the thing to do in Venus Bay.

Back up the coast to Streaky Bay, where we considered staying, but it really wasn't all that attractive (compared to the other places we had visited). We pushed on and headed inland.

As always our journey was influenced by the possibility of bird photos, and the Gawler Ranges seemed to be a likely destination. You can enter the park from a number of towns so we were able to be flexible about where to stay. We drove through a number of towns, none of which suited us. The caravan parks were generally on the highway, and offered little shade.

We made it into Kimba and had a look at the caravan park - again on the highway. Kimba does however have a couple of free camp sites in the town. We chose the Central Park - an initiative of the local Lions Club. A big open area to set up camp (all gravel) but with shade, toilets, a picnic shelter and BBQs. All this for a donation to the club. There was a caravan and a campervan there when we arrived, and we were later joined by two other vehicles. This is indeed a popular spot.

The forecast for Monday was for wind up to 40kph and temperatures in the high 30's - then for a cool change and stronger winds! We hit the road again before it became too hot.

We abandoned plans to visit the Gawler Ranges National Park and headed instead for Lake Gilles Conservation Park - about 17km east of Kimba. Lake Gilles is a salt lake, of which there are very many in South Australia. We did as was suggested on the signage on the edge of the lake - we went for a walk out on the salt. It was weird walking on a lake, and our shoes became encrusted with salt. We chased some birds and made our way further east as the temperature continued to rise and the wind howled.

The salt lake.

The bird guide book I have suggested the possibility of seeing Rufous treecreeper in the Lake Gilles Conservation Park area but this was not to be. We did see Mulga parrots and Yellow-plumed honeyeaters. Mick.

Yellow-plumed honeyeater

Female Mulga parrot.

We stopped for lunch at Port Germein and then kept on going south - all the while hoping the wind and temperature would drop. We called in to Port Wakefield but decided we might as well head for the Adelaide Hills and Hahndorf and get a cabin for a couple of nights. We have friends nearby who we wanted to visit and the weather forecast suggested camping would be unpleasant.