Mount Compass

23 – 28 November 2022

We left Port Augusta and made our first stop at Crystal Brook for morning tea in the park. We wandered around the friendly town and had a look in some of the shops, including a community run antiques and collectables shop. We had stopped in Crystal Brook for coffee or lunch a few times but have never stayed overnight and keep saying that is something we must do. Maybe next time.

We continued on and had lunch in the park at Port Wakefield then set off to drive through Adelaide and on to Mount Compass in the Lower Mount Lofty Ranges on the Fleurieu Peninsula. We had arranged to have a couple of nights there with friends Judy and John.

We had never been to Mount Compass before but picked it for its proximity to Cox Scrub, a favourite birding spot. We were pleasantly surprised to find a well laid out caravan park, with lush green grass on the spacious sites. It had a very nice friendly feel about it and was a great place to stay.

We spent the evenings with Judy and John and went out in the mornings to take photos of birds. After 2 nights we all decided to stay an extra night and go for lunch at the pub the next day. The Mount Compass Hotel has a surprisingly large menu – something we haven’t seen for a while – and we all enjoyed a delicious lunch.

Judy and John left to continue their travels after 3 nights at Mount Compass and we ended up staying an extra two nights. The small town had everything we needed – supermarket, op shop, bottle shop and hardware, as well as a gift shop and antique shop.

Each morning we set off early on the 20 minute drive to Cox Scrub. Mick had learned of this place from a local birder he had met at Laratinga Wetlands a couple of years before and it has become a favourite for its reliable puddles of water which attract honeyeaters and parrots. We were first to arrive each morning, with locals coming a little later. We were fortunate that the rain that fell on a couple of days didn’t start until late in the morning so it didn’t interfere with his activities.

From Mount Compass we had a long drive across the border into Victoria to stay in a cottage near Patchewollock.

Port Augusta

21 – 23 November 2022

After our two nights in a cabin in Ceduna we headed eastward off across the top of the Eyre Peninsula with no firm destination in sight. As we drove we checked the weather forecasts and decided that we would probably return to Port Augusta, which is becoming one of our regular stops.

We had lunch in the park at Minnipa and arrived at Port Augusta mid-afternoon. We booked into an ensuite site at the caravan park we always stay at and were pleased that it wasn’t too crowded. It was still quite windy but manageable, and forecast to be lighter overnight and into the next few days.

As always we went to Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens for a walk amongst the beautiful and varied vegetation, and to look for birds to photograph. The gardens look like they have a had a lot of work carried out lately, but the birdlife wasn’t as abundant as usual.

Later in the day we went into town to do some shopping, picking up supplies for the next few days. We have always found Port Augusta to be a good base to restock and the caravan park we choose is very well looked after and has all the required amenities. Being close to the Arid Lands Gardens has made it almost a compulsory stop for us.

We had been in contact with friends who were also travelling through South Australia and arranged to meet them in Mount Compass, so that was where we headed when we left Port Augusta.

Ceduna

19 – 21 November 2022

We had decided on two overnight stops along the Nullarbor so that Mick could again go looking for some local birds at Nullarbor Roadhouse. We calculated our arrival time, taking into consideration another timezone change and it looked like we would arrive mid-afternoon which would allow some birding in the afternoon and again in the morning.

We stopped for fuel at Mundrabilla and then coffee at Eucla where we checked the weather forecast for Nullarbor and our hearts sank – there were gale warnings for much of the Nullarbor and South Australia. We had to consider our options and came to the conclusion that we would have to get a cabin or room as there is no way we could set up the trailer in winds in excess 40km/h (with gusts expected at 80km/h).

We tried to call ahead to Ceduna without success so continued on to Nullarbor Roadhouse. The wind was behind us which made for fantastic fuel economy but it was so strong it was almost impossible to get out of the car. Mick grabbed some bread, butter and promite which he made into sandwiches in the car, while I booked us a cabin in Ceduna.

We knew we wouldn’t arrive in Ceduna until late so I emailed the caravan park to let them know and we continued our journey. When we arrived in Penong it looked like our plans may come completely unstuck with a very serious truck crash on the eastern outskirts of town causing the road to be completely blocked. Fortunately for us a friendly local came over and directed us to some farm tracks that would take us around the accident site and had us back on our way in a few minutes.

We stopped at the Quarantine Checking Station where our fridge and pantry were checked and made it the caravan park just after 6:30pm. We were directed to a very nice cabin where we were able to park the trailer just outside our door. The wind was ferocious so we knew we had made the right decision.

The wind continued throughout the next day, with some rain as well. We did manage to go for a walk to the supermarket in between showers. 

Last time we stayed in Ceduna we had a very nice meal at the pub bistro next door to the caravan park so we decided to do the same again. Our meals were delicious and generous. I had the Boston Bay Mussels again but this time they were cooked in a rich tomato sauce with chorizo for added flavour, and were served with a few prawns and garlic bread. Yum! Mick had his usual chicken schnitzel which he also enjoyed very much.

We left Ceduna and continued driving eastward, not completely sure where we would end up.

Madura

 18 – 19 November 2022

After leaving Salmon Gums we stopped briefly at Norseman before finally heading east and on to the Eyre Highway which would take us across the Nullarbor and into South Australia.

We usually have a picnic lunch but we were driving through rain (good thing we replaced the wiper blades), and the sky ahead was dark so we stopped at Balladonia for lunch in the roadhouse before continuing on to Madura.

Travelling east to west we had to adjust our clocks forward 45 minutes so it was after 4:00pm when we pulled up for the night. More rain was forecast but we had timed our arrival well and were able to get set up and dinner organised before the rain started. It was really cold and windy outside so we had our pre-dinner drinks and a grazing platter for dinner inside where we were warm and dry. Sometimes you just have to adapt to the local conditions.

More rain had been forecast for the morning but the sky was clear as we packed up and set off to continue our journey across the Nullarbor.

Salmon Gums

17 – 18 November 2022

After finding our way out of Mason Bay on an undamaged road we drove through Hopetoun and on to Ravensthorpe where we stopped for a coffee. We could have taken a short cut along the Southern Ocean Road, but were not prepared to risk it as we had seen a “Flood Damage” sign at the turn-off the previous day.

We continued along the South Coast Highway to Esperance where we stopped for lunch and to get some new windscreen wiper blades fitted. From Esperance we turned northwards and stopped at Salmon Gums for the night.

Salmon Gums has a small community run campground/caravan park. On arrival we called the caretaker – one of four locals who look after the park – and were told to pick a spot and leave payment in the honesty box. As an overnighter this is a perfectly adequate spot – clean amenities, a laundry and some nice bush nearby. It is close to the rail line but we didn’t notice any noise overnight.

In the morning we went for a walk before leaving to cross the Nullarbor.

Mason Bay

16 – 17 November 2022

We left Cheynes Beach and headed towards Ravensthorpe where we stopped to do some shopping, then headed to Mason Bay Campground, another one where we had stayed previously. Unfortunately we trusted the GPS and took a back road that had recently been flooded and still had a few spots where there was water on the road, a causeway that had water right across it and some fairly significant damage.

We arrived at the campground and found a good spot that provided some protection from the wind. With just an overnight stay planned we were able to leave the trailer hooked up to the car. The campground is council run and is one of many that are moving to a booking system – not yet in place when we stayed but coming very soon.

Mick spent some time photographing the birds he had come to see and in the morning we went for a short walk on the beach before leaving and starting the journey towards “home” in earnest. This time we took the road straight back towards Hopetoun and were pleased that this road was in good condition with no water and no flood damage. This is the road we should have been on the previous afternoon!

Cheynes Beach

13 – 16 November 2022

Leaving the Stirling Ranges we returned to the Porongorups and Castle Rock. Again the weather was not conducive to a strenuous hike to the Granite Skywalk but the birding around the carpark was again productive. From there we stopped for fuel on the outskirts of Albany and then on to Cheynes Beach.

There are three Western Australian endemic birds that can be found at Cheynes so Mick was hopeful that he would be able to find them. To maximise his chances he climbed out bed at 4:15am and was off with the camera after a quick breakfast. He returned after almost 4 hours with the news that he had been able to photograph all three birds, as well as some honey possums. He was very pleased with his morning’s outing. He did go out on the other two mornings we were at Cheynes but left it a little later each morning, without the same success.

We went for a couple of drives around the area and for a walk along the beach in a couple of spots. We also visited the “offal pits” to do some birding. Cheynes is quite a sheltered beach and is very popular as a fishing spot. Although we saw a number of people fishing we weren’t aware of anyone actually catching.

The weather forecast was for more cold, wind and rain but again we were hopeful it wouldn’t impact us too heavily over the next few days as we headed to Mason Bay.