Andamooka

 13 – 14 April 2022

Leaving Port Augusta we called in to the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens for one last visit, then headed north along the Stuart Highway. We have travelled on various sections of this road, but have never driven north from Port Augusta. The scenery was quite stunning, and constantly changing. At Pimba we turned west towards Roxby Downs.

Woomera is only a short drive from Pimba so we stopped there for lunch. Woomera was established in 1947 as a long range weapons testing area It is still a “closed” town – you can’t choose to live there you must be part of a Defence team, or contractor. The town is well kept with a number of rockets, planes and missiles on display in the park. We found the displays interesting but the lack of interpretative information a bit disappointing.

From Woomera we drove on to Roxby Downs where we did some shopping and fuelled up. Roxby Downs is a mining town servicing the nearby Olympic Dam site. It seemed to have all the usual shops and amenities but we decided not to stay there as it was still quite early. Instead we made a 30km detour to Andamooka.

Andamooka is known for its opal mining and the community is working very hard to encourage tourism. To this end, a terrific community camp ground has been established on the edge of town. There are toilets and hot showers and a sheltered BBQ, as well as a playground – all for $4 per person per night. There is also power available near the amenities for $12 per night. The whole facility was spotlessly clean and had both rubbish and recycling bins.

We settled in a spot on the edge of the campground near an old “shack” that provided some shelter from the wind and also some shade, as well as views of the mullock heaps nearby. Of course Mick spotted some birds and went for a walk in the morning to try to get some photos.

Before we left Andamooka we drove into town and spent some time looking at the restored cottages. This is a fascinating insight into how the early residents of this small town adapted their homes and lives to suit the harsh desert environment.

From Andamooka we set off back towards Roxby Downs then on to the Oodnadatta Track.

Port Augusta

 10 – 13 April 2022

We were unsure about where to go next and were considering Gawler Ranges, then north on the Stuart Highway but there were also some good bird spots on the Oodnadatta Track. We decided to go and spend a few days in Port Augusta while we made up our minds.  On our way from Cradock we stopped for a cuppa in Quorn and realised that the Pichi Richi railway was running and would leave Quorn sometime that morning. The Pichi Richi is a heritage railway journey running between Quorn and Port Augusta. The original line was commenced in 1878 and formed part of the famous Ghan journey. After our somewhat early morning tea we went for a walk around the town and returned to the picnic area in time to see the engine getting up a good head of steam ready to set off. We joined many others taking photos of this seldom-seen sight.

From there we made our way to Port Augusta and found a small park on the foreshore for lunch before checking in at the caravan park. It was very hot, and the forecast was for more hot weather so we were glad to be able to spend some time in the camp kitchen and recreation room.

As always, we visited the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens – three times! The first morning we rose early and were there for 7:30am opening time. We spent some time in each of the two bird hides and also along the tracks where Mick had spied some flowering Xanthoreas. We also checked out the Eremophila gardens in the hope of finding some birds there.

On the second morning we arrived even earlier and found, as Mick had suspected, that the gates were already open, or perhaps they had never been closed. This time we visited one of the bird hides and spent the rest of the time on the tracks. There is a huge network of well-marked and signposted tracks that meander all over the property through various sections highlighting regional plants. It’s a great place to photograph plants, birds, animals, as well as the stunning landscape.

On our final morning in Port Augusta we made one last visit to the Gardens on our way out of town. This time we also treated ourselves to morning tea at the excellent café. We had finally settled on a route that would take us along the Stuart Highway then across to the Oodnadatta Track, and back to the Stuart Highway.

Cradock

 9 - 10 April 2022

While we chose our last stop - Orroroo - because we'd never been there before, we chose this one because we had. In 1991 we drove around Australia and called in to the pub at Cradock, where Mick did some signs for the publican - payment was a carton of beer. It seemed like a good idea to go back.

Cradock Pub offers camping for free if you buy a beer, or a meal, so we headed there from Orroroo. We arrived in the early afternoon, called in and spoke to the publican and chose a spot out the back. It's not much more than a dusty paddock - littered with broken glass, crockery and tiles - but there is 24 hour access to a fairly new toilet and shower block. We chose a spot well back from the pub building to avoid any late night noise. We set up by the creek which was completely dry, but with a beautiful view towards the Flinders Ranges.

We had a restful, but hot, afternoon and walked over to the pub for dinner. Traveller reviews suggested the meals were good, and they were absolutely spot on. There were a few travellers there, and along with the friendly staff, it was a good night.

We were still a little unsure about where to head next, and received some advice from others. We decided to settle in Port Augusta for a few nights while we made up our minds.

Orroroo

 7 - 9 April 2022

We chose Orroroo as our next stop simply beacuse we had never been there before and because we needed a couple of days in a caravan park after 4 nights at Gluepot. We left Gluepot after lunch and stopped briefly in Peterborough before arriving in Orroroo late in the afternoon. The caravan park is on the main road, and walking distance to the shops just a couple of blocks away. The staff were friendly and readily offered tourist information and booklets.

In the morning we took advantage of the laundry and did three loads of washing before heading into town to do some shopping. We visited the new collective which sold a range of goods from a number of traders including jewellery, yummy baked goods and other food  and craft products. We also visited the  local butcher to stock up for the next leg of our journey - more friendly locals doing great things to create a good impression of the town.

On Saturday morning we packed up camp and headed down to the Lions Picnic area to tackle the Pekina Creek walking trail. This 2.9km loop walk is rated 2 and includes a number of points of interest along the way. A brochure is available but there is also good signage along the way. It was a very pleasant walk but we were glad we had chosen to do it in the morning as the day was warming up. We called back into town and found the cheapest fuel in the area before setting off on one of the tourist driving loops.

The drive we chose takes in the Magnetic Hill - a bit of fun to see your vehicle seem to roll uphill. Again a brochure is available but the route and the magic spot are well signposted. It was a lovely drive that returned us to Orroroo in time for lunch, so we went back to the Lions Picnic area and sat by the water in the shade for our picnic. 

Our final stop before leaving Orroroo was the Giant Gum Tree - with a trunk measuring 10.4m in circumference and more than 6metres in height before the first branches, it is one of the largest River Red Gums in South Australia. It's age is estimated to be in excess of 500 years! It is quite a site and well worth the short drive out of town. There is a sheltered picnic area but no toilets.

We set the GPS for our next destination - Cradock where we would spend the night in the free camp behind the pub.

Gluepot

 3 - 7 March 2022

We visited Gluepot on the first leg of this trip, as well as on a previous one and we were both keen to return – Mick for the birds and me for the rest and relaxation. We left Berri and travelled towards Waikerie where we crossed the Murray River – again. The road into Gluepot was in much better condition than last time we came through when parts of it were covered in very large, boggy puddles and one section was completely washed out. The trip this time was much easier and quicker.

We called into the visitor centre and paid for two nights, but were still undecided if we would spend more time here. This time we chose Bellbird Campground as we have stayed at Sitella and Babbler camprounds before. As with the others, Bellbird is well laid out with plenty of room to spread out. We were the only ones there when we arrived. We had lunch then set up camp in a spot that would give us some shade as well as easy access to the toilets.

Mick drove down to the nearby Grasswren Tank bird hide for a short session with the camera, and returned late in the day. Daylight savings had ended on Sunday morning so an early morning session required a 6:00 am start. The sun was just starting to show over the horizon as the alarm sounded. Mick spent about three hours at the hide and was back in time for smoko.

The nights were cold, the mornings crisp and the days warm - perfect weather really, so we decided to extend our stay to 4 nights. Mick visited Grasswren Tank and bird hide each morning and on Tuesday afternoon we went for a drive together so he could spend a little time at a couple of other spots.

He had met some campers who were staying at Sitella Campground and had told him about an owlet nightjar there so we made that one of our stops. We were surprised to see the number of campsites occupied as we were still the only ones at Bellbird. We also stopped at Emu Tank on the way back towards the visitor centre. We had planned to pay for the extra nights but decided to hold off. The weather had started to change and we were no longer sure about staying.

After a couple of days of blue skies and practically no breeze, the dark clouds and strong winds had us a bit worried. There is no internet access anywhere on Gluepot so we had no idea what the forecast was for the next few days. The wind died down overnight and there was some light rain, but the sky was very cloudy in the morning. Dark clouds continued to build and it started to rain more heavily at around 8:30 - while Mick was down at the hide. The temperature had also dropped significantly. All we could do was hope that it would pass and the skies would clear later in the day.

The rain did pass and the temperature stayed quite mild. For the first night since we arrived there were other campers at the cmapground - but they only stayed the one night. On our final morning Mick returned to the hide for a morning session before coming back for morning tea and to pack up camp.  On the way out of the reserve we stopped for a quick lunch at Emu Tank, and then hit the road for Orroroo. Once again we would be visiting a place we had never been before.

Berri

 1 – 3 March 2002

We spent some time in the South Australian Riverland when we came through in November last year and thought we might go back to Waikerie, before returning to Gluepot, but changed our minds and settled on Berri instead. We left Lake Cullulleraine and headed west towards the border between Victoria and South Australia.

Quarantine warnings were posted regularly as we approached the border and we stopped at the designated bin and disposed of our last piece of fruit before continuing on to the quarantine checkpoint. The check was the most thorough we had experienced in 6 years of crossing state borders. The officer not only checked the fridge, pantry drawers, but also the couple of grocery bags visible on the back seat, including the one which contained the dirty clothes. I don't think he was expecting that!

We stopped for a coffee in Paringa and at a hardware store in Renmark before arriving at the caravan park we had booked in Berri. We had gained a ½ hour when we entered the main SA timezone so were set up before lunch time. We’d booked an ensuite site for two nights and were allocated one which was actually a drive through, right at the rear of the park, with a view to the neighbouring tennis court. 

We went for a walk along the river, and stopped in at the Visitor Information Centre which sold a good selection of locally produced goods. We located the supermarket and returned later in the day to stock up for the next leg of our trip which would see us visiting some more remote locations.

On Saturday morning we walked along the river again, into town to browse the shops and buy some of the produce from the visitor centre – smoked almonds, dried fruit and almond muesli. Berri is a good sized town with all the expected shops and amenities as well as a beautiful spot on the river.

On Sunday morning we set off again, this time headed for Gluepot Reserve.

Lake Cullulleraine

 30 March 2022 - 1 April 2022

We set off from Hattah-Kulkyne National Park after lunch and stopped briefly in Mildura to pick up some supplies. From there we headed west to Lake Cullulleraine. There are two lakeside caravan parks and the one we chose had lots of green grass and large sites. We were allocated one right on the lake with trees providing some shade. It was such a relaxing and peaceful spot we decided to make it two nights.

The wind picked up overnight and our tranquil setting was transformed as clouds of dust (topsoil from the nearby agricultural area) surrounded us and settled on everything, including inside the tent. We had seen signs coming along the highway, warning about dust storms, but hadn't registered that this could happen with the stronger winds forecast. Consequently we did spend a lot of time inside and only ventured out when the wind died down a bit, and to eat. Mick was happy editing photos anyway so it didn't really matter. Had the weather been better we might have gone for one of the lakeside walks.

Despite the dust and wind, Lake Cullulleraine is a nice spot, and one that looks like it is popular on weekends and holidays. We were headed for Berri in South Australia next, so packed up on Friday morning and set off.