Mt Isa

30 - 31 July 2014

We had decided to go to Mount Isa for the opportunity to photograph some birds - surprise!. We thought the caravan park on the way to Lake Moondarra (the dam) would be a good spot to stay. Wrong! We were shown to a sort of grassy spot to pitch the tent and realised we were in the middle of a mining camp. - between the accommodation and the mess! It didn't turn out to be as noisy as it might have been, but we really felt like we were camping in someone's back yard. We decided to stay for just one night. We did have a look at other caravan parks but they all seemed to have very cramped camping areas.

In the morning we packed up and drove up to the dam for a look around. Then we headed for Mica Creek on the way to Dajarra so MIck could look for some grasswrens. (They weren't there). We did some shopping and went to the visitor information centre - Outback @ Isa. It's a good spot with many attractions but you have to pay to access most. We paid $12 each to go into the gallery which had lots of interesting interpretive displays, and out into the outback gardens. We asked about camping but were told there were only the caravan parks. 

We had been told by other travellers that you can camp at the old Mary Kathleen mine site so we made our way there. Again we were faced with dry, dusty open ground. There was one nice spot near a dry creek bed - but we didn't fancy putting the tent up under the branches of the big old gum trees, so back to Clem Walton Park.

Clem Walton Park (half way between Cloncurry and Mt Isa)

28 - 30 July 2014

The following morning we headed off on the short drive to Clem Walton Park. We had both read about this place in different places (birdwatching magazines, travellers' blogs and tourist websites). The main camping area is at the Corella Dam, but there are no toilets there so we made our way to the park which is by the creek. It is by far a much nicer place to camp, even though there is very little water left in the creek. The toilets weren't working when we arrived - the tank was empty so we carried buckets of water to flush  - as did the few others camped there. We pitched the tent on the edge of the picnic area, near the remaining pools of water. 
 

Our humble camp

The others were camped further along at the dry end of creek bank so it was a fairly private camping spot. We were visited several times each day by other campers coming to collect water - all really nice people who stopped for a bit of a chin wag. We heard later that they referred to us as the "young couple". The view was magnificent as the water attracted lots of birds and other wildlife.

Didn't want to let the birds drink alone

A wonderful place to watch and photograph wildlife

A great variety of birds make a home in this dry, rugged country. The scarce waterholes become the focal point of their existence.

Kangaroos regularly came down the rocky hillside to drink

We packed up and pottered around on our last morning - thinking maybe we could have stayed longer when our peace was invaded by a group of three caravans. In no time they had "parked the wagons in a circle", hung up washing and generally taken over the space - we were right to be moving on.

We will definitely be back - hopefully when there is some more water - but before it gets crowded with travelers.

Cloncurry

26 - 28 July 2014

We headed into Cloncurry - having decided to make each day's driving as short as possible. We called into the visitor information centre, as is our habit and asked about camping. We spent a bit of time wandering around as there were some trees in flower that had attracted many birds. We picked up a flier for "Wal's Camp" and decided that may be better than the caravan park on the highway. As we drove past the caravan park we noted the very cramped camping area so made our way to Wal's. About 2 kms out of town, it certainly looked to be a better prospect so we checked in. We were the only campers and were given a partially shaded spot next to the - very rustic - camp kitchen. The amenities were limited and a bit cramped but adequate.

During the afternoon a couple parked not far from us in the same model of "Cub" camper trailer we had been looking at as an option for us. They seemed like nice people so we picked their brains and they let us have a good look at the set up.

On Sunday morning we ventured back down to the visitor centre for the markets. We bought some books and sweet treats, before moving on to Chinaman Creek Dam. 

This is a beautiful spot but unfortunately camping is not permitted. We walked for quite a way around the lake and it seems that some folks do camp there at times. Later in the afternoon Mick went back on his own to chase a few birds but came home early - the quiet had been broken by noisy people on quad bikes and motor bikes, with dogs. 

This is a great place to see some excellent bush and water birds. It's probably best to avoid weekends and school holidays as it is a popular local recreation area. There is a vehicle track around the dam but also clear walking by the waters edge.

I was fascinated by the antics of the, quite common, Restless Flycatchers. This bird was a lifer for me and I was amazed by its strange gargling, scolding call. It was a challenge to photograph, due, as the name accurately suggests, to its active nature.

I rely on my telephoto camera lens to view distant birds and it didn't have quite enough magnification to sort the many water birds out in the middle of the lake. A couple I could identify were Pink-eared Ducks, White-headed Stilts and Grey Teal.

Only a short walk around the vehicle track from the car park and I was able to see Diamond Dove, Variegated fairywren, Pictorella mannikin, Zebra Finch and Grey-headed Honeyeater.

On a sad note, the place is spoilt by copious amounts of litter. I don't expect the people responsible to be capable of reading this but if they do... wake up to yourselves!!!

Julia Creek

25 - 26 July 2014

We checked into a camping spot in the caravan - dry and dusty, but back from the highway at least. During the afternoon we walked up to the visitor information centre (At the Creek) and arrived just in time for the feeding of the Julia Creek Dunnart - a highly endangered species. The charge was $2 per person but we figured it was a reasonable donation for the conservation of these little cuties. 

We had read that there was a nature trail which ran behind the caravan park and along to the creek and decided to venture out once it started to get a little cooler late in the day. The walk was not signposted and was not even obvious so we ended up walking along the road towards the part of the creek that had been set aside as a free RV camp. Mick did get some photos of birds - despite being heckled by a loud mouthed "grey nomad". 

 Variegated Fairy-wrens, Crested Pigeons and Diamond Doves 

were all encountered on our afternoon walk.

We were disappointed that the advertised walk was not evident. Not a good look for visitors to the town, but we did enjoy a nice sunset with some clouds in the sky (for a change).

 We were able to access the camp kitchen to freeze some water bottles and charge the camera batteries which was a bit of a bonus, but didn't stay to watch sport on TV - we had already become used to not having one.

Richmond

24 - 25 July 2014

From Hughenden we headed along the highway to Richmond and checked into a camping spot at the only caravan park in town. We were early so were able to select a prime piece of real estate with views over Lake Fred Tritton. Unfortunately we were crowded in as the afternoon progressed, but maintained our view. 

The following morning we ventured down to the lake again and Mick did some serious bird photography while I wandered home. 

 
Chestnut-breasted Mannikin, Striated pardalote and White-winged triller were easily seen in the bush around the bottom of the lake wall. At dusk, huge flocks of Budgerigar and Little Corella circled above us at the camp ground as they prepared to descend on the dam to drink. Yellow-throated miner and Crested Pigeon wandered through and around our camp. Mick.

After packing up we visited the local "museum", a replica of the Cambridge Downs homestead (with free entry), had coffee at Kronosaurus Korner and bought fresh meat from the butcher (which seemed to be the only shop open) and headed towards Julia Creek.

We had heard about a place on the way that some bloggers had described as beautiful so we decided that might be worth a stop. We turned off the highway and drove the two kilometres to Nelia. I don't know how you could describe it as beautiful. The promised "country farm stay" was little more than a very dry and dusty backyard. Yes there were some animals - goats, geese and chooks, but nothing you could describe as a farm. The amenities consisted of access to the bathroom at the back of the old house. We didn't stay - just made lunch in the shelter shed across the road and moved on.

 

Porcupine Gorge

23 - 24 July 2014   

We made a reasonably early departure from Pentland and made our first stop at the rest area on the Burra Range which provides access to the White Mountains National Park. Coffee and sweet biscuits - and a session with the camera for Mick. He ventured down the road that starts across from the rest area.

Our plan had been to drive to Porcupine Gorge via the tourist route that avoids going through Hughenden but when we took the turn Mick noticed it was 4WD only (which we don't have) and then we saw a "road closed" sign! So back on the Flinders Highway and on through Hughenden, arriving at Porcupine Gorge for a late lunch. We were looking forward to a quiet night - despite the presence of other campers.

The night was cold but peaceful - especially after the cacophony of the previous night.

We stopped again at the lookout on our way back along the highway. We decided we must come back at another time of day to get a different perspective on the gorge with the different shadows.

We did some shopping in Hughenden and then had lunch at the picnic spot on the banks of the river where I repaired my brand new, expensive leather sandals using needle and thread acquired from the lovely ladies in the local Vinnies store.

Pentland

22 - 23 July 2014

Pentland - There's a nice little caravan park in Pentland.....

Our next foray into the great outdoors was to be the longest we had done in a long time. Our main destination - Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park. We headed off from Townsville and stopped for lunch in Charters Towers. It was then on to Pentland where we had decided to stay in the caravan park for the night. Lots of people had told us - there's a nice little caravan park in Pentland. The park was very dry - grass and trees very dead, but no matter, we chose a spot and set up camp to the strains of country music from the house across the street. This, coupled with the road trains going by out the front and the trains beyond, assured us this wasn't going to be a peaceful camp - and we weren't wrong - later in the evening we were also serenaded by a number of barking dogs that went on well into the night. It was a very long, and very cold, night.

Mt Quincan Crater Retreat near Yungaburra

1 - 4 July 2014

Our next destination was to be quite different again - and very indulgent. We had planned to spend a few days at Mt Quincan Crater Retreat during the Easter holidays but were chased away by the impending arrival of Cyclone Ita. We didn't escape the cyclone completely as she moved down the coast and was still classified as a category 1 cyclone when she hit Townsville and beyond.The managers at Mt Quincan were very understanding of our reluctance to stay with a cyclone approaching and happily rebooked us for the June/July holidays. 

This place is absolutely beautiful and very well appointed. The pole-house style cabins are situated so that you cannot see your neighbours. Our cabin had a great view across farming lands but some have what we consider a better view into the crater itself - and the swamp. The cabins are absolute luxury -including a wood fire and spa bath.Ours also had an outdoor shower - although we didn't use it. The bathroom inside was much cosier! Our package also included breakfast provisions  for each morning - cereal, yoghurt, sausages, rissoles, bacon. mushrooms, eggs, break, muffins - so much food we actually ate some for dinner.

There are a number of walks on the property and we tackled the Crater and Wetlands walking track which takes you down into the crater itself (and a bit of a climb back up again), as well as the Lesley Creek and Fig Tree walk. Both were really nice walks downhill...

One of the features of Mt Quincan is the resident population of Lumholtz's Tree Kangaroo which apparently frequent the trees around the cabins - but not while we were there. We were visited by birds and had a nightly visit by possums looking to be fed.

We often visit the Atherton Tablelands so did some of our favourite things while we were there including lunch at the Malanda Hotel, a visit to the very popular Gallo Dairyland to purchase cheese and chocolate, wandering around the shops in Yungaburra and two visits to Hasties Swamp near Atherton where Mick photographed a huge flock of magpie geese and a platypus.

We also had afteroon tea at Lake Barrine, a short walk at Lake Eacham and a visit to the Curtain Fig Tree. We were fortunate that although the weather was very cold at times, the rain held off for most of the time we were "out and about".

Jabiru Safari Lodge at Mareeba Wetland

29 June - 1 July 2014

We arrived at Mareeba Wetlands shortly after 2.00pm and were told our tent was not ready so were treated to a coffee - local of course. After a short wait we were taken to our accommodation - a safari tent which was much more glamorous than the tent we had been camping in over the last few weeks, and it even included a very nice ensuite. 

We had booked the "all inclusive"package so were advised to be at the visitor centre by 3.30 for a cruise around the lagoon and then a safari tour. Out host and tour guide Greg did an excellent job of meeting the needs of his guests - photographer and bird watchers. He kept a bird guide to provide extra information to the international tourists. 

We had previously walked around the lagoon a number of years ago so it was interesting to see it from the water. After a half hour tour we climbed into the old Landcruiser for a safari tour. Greg takes his guests to various spots on the property depending on the needs and interests of his guests. 

He tried very hard to take us to spots where Mick might see and be able to photograph the birds he was after - but alas - no luck. We returned to the visitor centre just on dusk for drinks and nibbles. Greg and wife Marg are excellent hosts - mingling with guests and sharing their story. They are actually cattle farmers who own the property next door and took over running Jabiru Safari Lodge and Mareeba Wetlands when the previous managers walked out. They are doing a great job! Dinner was a choice of fish, chicken or steak and salad or vegetables. A delicious home style meal - served with more drinks and dessert of we had wanted it - we declined. Because it was a cold night, Greg lit a fire outside and we stopped there to finish our drinks before retiring for the night. 

The following morning we enjoyed breakfast of fruit, toast, cereal etc on the deck before heading off on another safari. This time Greg took us along different tracks, including on his own property. 

Lunch was from the cafe menu - wraps, sandwiches, quiche etc, and local coffee and tea. We managed to have a restful afternoon before heading out on one of the many walks. We didn't go too far but Mick was happy when he found a "birdy spot". We joined our hosts and other guests again for drinks and nibbles at sunset, followed by dinner (and this time we did have dessert - very yummy apple, rhubarb and berry crumble).

After breakfast on our second and final morning we packed up our things and heading out for another walk - back along the Pandanus Walk - the one we had been the day before, but we walked a bit further this time, all the way to the "washout". Again there were a few opportunities to photograph birds. After saying our goodbyes we headed off to our next destination - Mt Qunican Crater Retreat near Yungaburra.