Undara Lava Tubes

 12 - 13 July 2025

With one night left before our next house sitting assignment we decided to stay at Undara Resort - not for the lava tubes, although they are fascinating, but for the setting and access to walking tracks. We booked online while we were in Georgetown and set off, with a stop for lunch in Mount Surprise.

The caravan park (resort) is located adjacent to the Undara Volcanic National Park and access to the lava tubes is by guided tour only, but there are some great walking tracks that can be accessed from the caravan park, and a crater walk a short drive away. We were allocated a good site with some shade and long enough to be able to leave the trailer hitched up - always a bonus for an overnighter.

Late in the afternoon we set off on the walk to the swamp, aware that part of the walk was still underwater from a very wet, wet season, but we were still surprised by the amount of water around. The swamp is now a lake, and staff suggested that it will probably stay that way for some time due to the rise in the water table. Because there is so much water around, birds no longer rely on this body of water so there weren't many around. It was still a nice walk, and worth it to see the swamp/lake so full.

Once a swamp, now a lake

We did consider having dinner in the onsite bistro but when we looked at the menu we decided against it. The new menu no longer reflects the setting and we considered it to be overpriced and far too "fancy" for a bistro in the bush. We had some home made soup from the freezer instead.

After another cold night, we packed up, removing some essentials from under the bed ready to live in a house for a while. We stopped at Mount Garnet to make a cup of coffee, and continued on to our "home" for the next three weeks in Ravenshoe.

Flat Creek Station - Forsayth

 10 - 12 July 2025

We left Cumberland Dam and stopped in Georgetown to run some errands before making our final decision to move on to Flat Creek Station near Forsayth. We'd been before and I wasn't all that keen to return but agreed we should give it another try anyway. We travelled south from Georgetown and turned off towards Western Creek Station, which also offers camping, then on to Flat Creek. Most of the creeks were full of water and the road was a bit rough in places, but generally not too bad.

This time we were pleasantly surprised by a completely different experience starting with a very warm welcome from one of the owners (who were nowhere to be seen last time). We snagged the same spot we had on our last visit and found the other campers, most of whom were fossickers, to be a friendly and interesting bunch. Most were keen to learn about the birds and have a chat about their travels. Most were couples where as last time it had all been men - mostly solos - in the campground. The camp had a completely different feel and even though the birding wasn't as good, we enjoyed a couple of good days there.

Drinks at sunset - always a nice way to end the day

Mick went out looking for birds in the early morning and late afternoon, and we pottered around camp for the rest of the time. We had good shade as well as some sun for solar. We experimented with using both 200w and 100w panels at the same time - as suggested by our auto electrician - and were very pleased with the results.

After 2 nights we left Flat Creek and returned to Georgetown where we stopped to make a booking to stay at Undara, as well as to call to finalise out house sitting arrangements.

Cumberland Dam

 9 - 10 July 2025

We left Karumba after 4 fabulous nights and started to make our way back towards Ravenshoe where we would be house sitting again. We had nearly a week to get there so we had a few options for stops along the way. We decided to make our first camp at Cumberland Dam (also known as Cumberland Chimney) just outside of Georgetown.

We drove from Karumba through to Croydon where we stopped for lunch, fuel and a few supplies. Croydon has a mining history and a lovely lake where you can picnic, but we stayed in town and had lunch in the park as we still had quite a way to go. We didn't want to arrive too late at our destinationas we were aware it can get quite crowded.

Cumberland Dam is a well known free (donation) camp about 20km west of Georgetown and is very popular with the grey nomads, but our reason for staying there is for the birding. We drove in to the campground and had a bit of a look around before settling on a site that was a good size, reasonably level and not too far from the dam. We were only staying one night so stayed hitched up. Mick ventured off with the camera, as usual.

The dam is beautiful at sunset

In the morning Mick set off again to take photos before returning for a cuppa and to pack up ready to move on. We drove in to Georgetown where we stopped to make a call to Flat Creek Station - our next destination.

Karumba

 5 - 9 July 2025

Having enjoyed three lovely nights at Adels Grove we now faced the huge drive to Karumba. We knew there were limited options for nice spots to stop for lunch so had packed a picnic bag with lots of "grazing" type food to eat along the way - left over camp oven roast chicken, cheese, carrot sticks, crackers, muesli bars, fresh and dried bananas and plenty of water. We had morning tea in Gregory before continuing on towards Burke and Wills Roadhouse.

We stopped briefly at the roadhouse but, unlike some roadhouses, this one doesn't have anywhere you could have a picnic, so we continued on and snacked as we drove. We made our way roughly north along the Burke Deveopmental Road and on through Normanton. We stopped at Mutton Hole Wetlands Conservation Park, but the track was in terrible condition and the grass was so long you couldn't see the water, so we didn't stay.

We arrived in Karumba late in the afternoon, just in time to set up at the caravan park and head to the Sunset Tavern for dinner. We knew it would be busy on a Saturday night but we were able to get a table inside, still with a good view of the sun setting over the waters of the Gulf of Carpentaria. The wait for dinner was long because of the crowds, but the meal was good and the atmosphere great, as usual.

Sunset over the Gulf of Carpentaria 

One of the reasons most people come to Karumba is for the fishing - but for Mick it's the birding so he ventured out and about each morning and again in the afternoon. He had wanted to do an early morning birding cruise but these are no longer available so we decided to indulge in the sunset cruise instead - a proper 40th wedding annivarsary celebration.

The sunset cruise was fully booked on the Saturday night so we had booked for the Sunday instead, and were so glad as there were only 7 other people on this tour. Some of us were collected from the beach at Karumba Point and we then motored back to Karumba town to collect the rest. The tour went up the Norman River where we learnt about the development of the town, including its military history,  as well as its current role in the export of zinc and lead from the Century Mine, and of course, the fishing and prawning industry for which it is most famous.

After explorin the town from the water, we returned to "The Point" and back into the gulf waters where we were served drinks and and a delicious grazing platter, followed by individual buckets of prawns and finally chocolate cake - all enjoyed as we watched the sun set over the water. It was a fabulous way to spend an evening.

Another stunning sunset

Mick had been given a tip about another birding spot near the Visitor Information Centre - Les Wilson Barrumundi Discovery Centre - so we drove into town in the morning. I spent some time looking at the interesting exhibits while Mick chased birds. There is a paid tour that includes the hatchery, but there is also lots to see within the visitor centre at no cost.

We had initially intended to stay three nights in Karumba but booked an extra one as we were enjoying our time - as well as the great weather and friendly neighbours. It was nice to be able to relax for a few days, with everything we needed close at hand. We had a date to return to Ravenshoe to house sit again so used the time to make a plan for our last week on the road.

Wugudaji - Adels Grove

 2 - 5 July 2025

We wanted to return to Boodjamulla - Lawn Hill Gorge but the national park has been closed since floods devestated the area in early 2023. I've been checking the website regularly and the re-opening date kept being pushed back. We usually stay at Adels Grove before or after a visit to Boodjamulla so we decided to go and stay a few nights anyway. About a week before, we saw a notice advising that the national park would be opening to day visitors from 4 July so we would be able to drive in, even though we couldn't stay. For once our timing was perfect.

We left Riversleigh D site and stopped to collect firewood along the 45km drive to Adels Grove, where we settled onto a site in the top camping area on the edge of "the grove". Sites in this section are marked but not allocated and allow for a bit more sunshine which we needed to keep the solar going over our three day stay. There are no powered sites at Adels Grove but the site we chose did have a make-shift fire pit which we would put to use.

Mick spent quite a lot of time walking down by the river looking to photograph birds and was well rewarded. The river looks quite different after such a huge flood - with massive log-jams in several places. The little beach where we swam with the girls on our first visit has been completely washed away and you can't walk as far along the river. 

This is what a big flood can do

The fire pit on our camping site was messy and overgrown so Mick spent the afternoon tidying it up ready to have a fire in the evenings. On our second night we cooked a chicken and some vegetables in the camp oven for dinner. It was going to be a cold night again so we looked forward to being able to sit by the fire. Dinner was cooked to perfection! 

Camp oven dinner - perfect on a cold night

We were keen to drive into the national park on the morning it reopened, so packed up a picnic and headed off after breakfast. The road from Adels Grove to the park entrance is now bitumen - it used to be the worst section of gravel on the whole drive from Gregory. We knew the only walk available was Constance Range hike but we weren't keen to do that as it's quite long and strenuous. Swimming in Lawn Hill Creek was still possible and kayaks were available to hire.

We arrived to find quiet a few others had the same idea and we chatted with lots of people as we wandered around. We were fortunate to be able to talk with one of the park rangers who let us know a bit more about the flood recovery work that had been done, and what was still to do. The office has been re-instated but there is no visitor centre yet. The campground is yet to be rehabilitated and the waste treatment plant is still not up and running properly so camping is limited to small tour groups. The staff accommodation has had new kitchens and bathrooms but most of the paved pathways have been washed away and have not yet been replaced. It's been a massive job to get the park to this stage and there is still so much work to be done. Camping should be open to the general public in October, but by then it will be too hot for us.

Boodjamulla - still one of my favourite places

We didn't swim because it was a bit too cool and we didn't see anyone else in the water either. Those hiring kayaks could paddle to Indarri Falls but the platform where you could previously stop, rest and have a swim is not there any more. The walks to the falls, and other walks are yet to be reinstated.

In the end we didn't stay long. While it was fascinating to see the changes and great to talk to the rangers, once we'd walked as far as we could along the river, there wasn't much else for us to do so we headed back to Adels Grove. We took a short detour back along the Riversleigh road to collect some more firewood. This time we were planning to cook potatoes in foil on the coals - and once again, delicious!

We had booked to stay in Karumba so had a huge drive ahead of us the next day so did as much packing and organising as we could so that we could get away early. We managed to leave by about 8:30am and headed towards Gregory. It was an unusually foggy morning which slowed us down a bit but we made it into Gregory in time for morning tea. We also fuelled up as the price was lower than at Burke and Wills roadhouse which is on the main road back to Karumba.

Boodjamulla National Park (Riversleigh Section) - Miyumba Campground

 1 - 2 July 2025

I had wanted to go to Riversleigh Fossil Site for many years, and had even tried to book a tour once, but we had yet to organise a visit. This time we were able to include it in our plans to head towards the Gulf of Carpentaria. We packed up and left Mount Isa, and drove north-west along the Barkly Highway until we reached the turn-off that would take us to the Gregory Downs - Camooweal Road. We stopped for a cuppa at a rest area and then continued on. We joined the Gregory Downs - Camooweal Road and were surprised that the bitumen went further than we had expected. It didn't last too long though and we soon had to stop to let some air out of the tyres.

Even though GoogleMaps plots a course that goes all the way to Gregory, we knew there was a turn-off that would take us direct to Riversleigh. It was well sign-posted but there was a temporary sign indicating "road closed". I had checked that morning and there was no indication online that the road was not open so we decided to continue, knowing we might have to turn around as some stage. Not far along we stopped a mine vehicle coming towards us and the driver confirmed that vehicles were getting through. We did come across some new bitumen works, and surmised that the road may have been closed for a short time while it was being laid. As sometimes happens in remote locations, no-one had bothered to remove the sign.

We continued on and crossed several creeks with runnning water. We stopped by the side of the road near one to have a quick picnic lunch and then drove on. We were quite surprised at the amount of water flowing across the causeway at the Gregory River. We were also able to see the effects of recent floods. We missed the entrance into the campground and stopped when we reached the Riversleigh World Heritage Site. As we planned to stop on our way through the following morning we didn't linger, instead heading back the few kilometres to the campground. 

Gregory River crossing south of Miyumba

When booking to camp at Miyumba Campground you don't book an actual site so you can choose the one that suits you once you arrive. We chose a nice big site that would give us some shade, and also some sun for the solar. We had discovered the Anderson plug which provides power to the camper trailer batteries while driving, had been broken on the rough road so getting some solar in was essential.

We went for a walk down to the Gregory River which is nearby and Mick spent some time looking for birds. It wasn't very productive but Miyumba Campground was still a nice spot to spend a night. There was only one other camper there at the time which made for a very peaceful evening.

The following morning Mick walked back to the river, and repaired that broken Anderson plug before we set off to explore Riversleigh D Site. This is the only site open to the public, with interpretive information and a walk that winds up a hill and back down again. Many of the fossils are labelled but a careful look as you walk, reveals so many more. D Site was one of the first sites to be discovered at Riversleigh, and contains 25 million year old fossils of turtles, fish, snails, crocodiles, lizards, pythons, birds, as well as many different types of mammal. 

Fabulous views of the area
from the top of the hill - and there's fossils

After our walk around the site, we had lunch then continued on towards Adels Grove. 

Mount Isa

 30 June - 1 July 2025

Neither of us really wanted to stay in Mount Isa but it seemed like the best option for an overnighter so we headed west from Mary Kathleen. Before making our final decision we drove out to Lake Moondara and had morning tea there. There are lovely picnic areas with toilets and showers as well at the lake, and lots to explore if you wanted to spend some time there.

Finally deciding to stay, we headed back to the nearby caravan park and settled in to get some jobs done and to restock before going into some smaller, less well resourced places. We did some washing and then went in to town for groceries and fuel. We repacked and tidied the car and then booked our next stay in a National Park.

Before we left we refilled the water tank and checked that the road we would travel on was open - it was - and set off around 9:30, bound for Miyumba Campground in the Riversleigh section of Boodjamulla National Park.

A roadside stop on the way to Riversleigh